I'm testing the waters on used v8 prices to see about v8'ing my 280Z. Had a guy offer me a 327 from a 68 Chevelle. He said it's the longblock awaiting the carb, distributor, etc etc. He says he had it listed at $600 and had no bites. Any idea on what I should offer for a 327 that needs a few parts to get it back to 100% and is from a 1968 model car?
Any pros/cons to a 327 vs a 350, or a 383 or 400?
Post Edited (Apr 17, 3:12pm)

If you're gonna have to go that far just build up a nice 383 stroker.
Currently parting out 1990 300zx TT.

I've heard of most guys doing the whole V8 swap for under 1000. You might want to look into other engine options as 600 seems a little high. For a street car you won't really need a huge engine to get a light weight 280z moving.
1977 280z: Intake, exhaust, high flow cat, header, euro damper, cam, MSD, adj. FPR, 3.7 lsd, F+R sway+strut bars, 2580lbs
1984 300zx: intake, exhuast, high flow cat, headers, JWT ECU, F+R sway bars, F strut bar
06 WRX TR

600 is fair for a 327.. they aren't very common.. and i think it would be ideal.. 327 revs higher, makes a little less torque, and makes it higher in the power band.. so traction would not be as much of an issue
---------------------------------
orange '72 240z
blue '72 240z
red (in places) '73 fairlady z 2+2
red '98 SWB chevrolet c1500 5.7

Do you possibly have a break down for doing the swap that cheap?
The only way I could see it feasible for that little is homemade mounts, free engine and trans, all work done by yourself, and pretty much only having the driveshaft made at a shop.
People at hybridz seem to spend about $2-3k a basic swap buying almost everything and only having the driveshaft made at a shop. But this is very basic, like cheap engine and tranny from the junkyard, no rebuild, and just the basics.
Mario
1976 280Z - Dad's Z (turbo swap?)
1978 280Z - Stock Rebuild | 5 Speed | Twice Pipes | Gutted
1982 280ZX - Turbo | MSnS-E | 5 Speed | Large NPR IC
BROKE: Will build computers, webpages, networks, MS units, troubleshoot computers for money

The mounting kit is only $275 from JTR. Of course you still need to spend a few hundred more on a radiator (unless you can source one somewhere else and fab up mounting), headers, and other little things. Lots of those could be sourced at swap meets or Ebay or something.
He gave me the casting #s on the block in case anyone is an expert on v8s and can tell me whether it's a good block or not.

327's are nice engines in light cars. They love to rev (not like an L engine) and will go like hell. I have a shortblock in my garage that is waiting for a new home. For a rebuilt engine, you are looking at about $500-$800 for a longblock. I know with my 327 I have about $500 into it already and I don't have heads. Junkyard V8's are cheap, but be ready for a turd. The nice thing about chevy V8's is the parts are cheap and available everywhere.
1972 240Z 4-speed, header, 3.54 R200, Crane XR-3000 Ignition, 280Z tach, Tokico Blue Struts, Suspension Tech Springs, Poly Bushings. Visit me at my website for your custom EFI & restored Datsun parts

Would you consider yourself pretty knowledgable on the 327 Jmanz? If so I might email you with the link to his posts so you can read the info he gives and look at the pics. I hate that it's orange, as I hate the Chevy orange color, same way with the Datsun blue they paint all their blocks in the Z cars.

I'm not any more knowledgeable than anyone else who has owned a chevy V8. I have had 3 V8 powered cars, but that doesn't make me an expert. I can look at the posts and give my impression. I do know more about Chevy V8's than I do about Ford V8's so I can help a little. I do know I liked my 327 better than the 350 I had in the other cars.
1972 240Z 4-speed, header, 3.54 R200, Crane XR-3000 Ignition, 280Z tach, Tokico Blue Struts, Suspension Tech Springs, Poly Bushings. Visit me at my website for your custom EFI & restored Datsun parts

Get the casting numbers from the block & heads. You can google up the Info on them. The 68 327 was a two bolt main block, Remember you see larger HP number because it is before net hp #'s got used...
Here is one site http://www.73-87.com/chevy_ids/sbcid2.htm
And another http://www.nastyz28.com/sbchevy/sblock.html
More http://www.chevy-camaro.com/chevy-casting-numbers.shtm
Still More http://www.kendrick-auto.com/chevrolet_blocks.htm
You guessed it http://www.ajgeneral.com/sbc_block_casting_numbers/
77 280Z with SBC, 700R4, Vette C4 IRS W/11.5 rear disk, Centerlines 16x9.5 W/BF G 245x45ZR Comp T/A Rear and 15x7 Ft W/BF Goodrich Euro 225x15 on ft. Soon to have Coleman 12.2x1.25, x-drilled, zinc plated, Rotors W/Billet Outlaw 4000. Z U V8ter

It appears to be a 327 from a 68-69 Camaro, Nova, Chevelle, 2 bolt main large journals. Can't make out the head casting #, it's a 3947341 it looks like.

The head doesn't show on any of the lists I looked up or in any of my notes for casting numbers. It's probably a decent head though. 2 bolt journals doesn't mean a weak block. It's a common misconception that the 2 bolt blocks are inferior to the 4 bolt blocks. In reality, you will still need a lot of HP to break a 2 bolt block. I have seen very few SBC engines fail because the main bearing supports failed on a 2 bolt main block. It is almost always soemthing else that fails and blows the bottom of the engine out.
1972 240Z 4-speed, header, 3.54 R200, Crane XR-3000 Ignition, 280Z tach, Tokico Blue Struts, Suspension Tech Springs, Poly Bushings. Visit me at my website for your custom EFI & restored Datsun parts

"They love to rev (not like an L engine)"
Son, fix your L-Engine, they LOVE to rev! L24's more so than a stock L28, but they are VERY rev-happy engine.
Much more so than a Chevy V-8, especially when comparing stock-to-stock.
And modified? Fagabaddit! L-Revs like crazy when they're hot rodded.
People Are Idiots, Just look around here and you will see!
Tony D: "Knowledgeable but Caustic"... rationull
My brother from another mother calls himself "Willie D"

He read off the #s incorrectly Jman, it's a 39 not 38. But I still can't find that exact #. This isn't necessarily the engine I might go with, but it's a good possibility. I think I like the idea of the 327 for slightly less torque to twisth something with, and is more prone to revving than the bigger small blocks.

327, the best(chevy) engine ever built..will be interesting for you to know which one are you looking at, they were quite a few different 327 configuration those days
Have you shared the left lane today?

I'm so old school I'm down right historic - 327's were and are great - but -
I think that engine would be better to restore an antique GM.
Just my lousey opinion.
Ed and Jeanne's
ZXelda 1981 280 ZXT: ZXena 1990 300 ZX
1941 Buick Special Sedanette (Betty)
1956 Dodge Royal (Dorothy)
1971 Buick Riviera (Rita)
1975 Ford F-150 Stepside (Fiona)
1992 Firebird (Frieda)

This is all in the archives, and frankly I'm waiting for Dan Baldwin to get involved...
But I'll say I was much happier with the 327 we swapped into a Corvair back in 79 than I was with the original 350 we had put in there.
If you can't find a modern 350 TPI engine with the roller rockers and etc for a comparable price, I'd go with the earlier engine if it's running and you don't plan on rebuilding it any time soon. The torque is still prodigious, and it does come on higher in the rpms so it's a bit more fun to drive than most of the pedestrian 350's that are available with a carburettor.
If you plan on rebuilding it, get a good 250 core for as cheap as you can and simply build the thing right from the groun up. When you are building it, there is no reason the revs can't come up just as fast regardless of stroke or engine size.
But for a stock drop in, if a 327 high-performance engine is available, then that's what I'd go for, over a non-performance oriented 350 from something like an Impala Wagon, etc...
Curiously, that price is about the same as what we paid for ours in 79. Then again, ours was a Corvette 327 as well....muahahaha!
People Are Idiots, Just look around here and you will see!
Tony D: "Knowledgeable but Caustic"... rationull
My brother from another mother calls himself "Willie D"

All sorts of internal diffs. on the 327 make it hard to tell from your post what ya got there. Hydraulic cam or solid lifters? Which manifold/carb combo?
Good old solid lifter 327-s have some collector value as opposed to the bigger 350-s. You may have a golden opp. to take the 327 and resell it for more than a newer 350 if its a rarer model.
Rusty but running.
Polish cell phone and two tubes of Aluma-seal.
And, now we are historic.

The original guy who had it said it's from a 69 Chevelle. Said it went 8.3 in the 1/8th in the Chevelle. He also mentioned it was pretty fresh when it came out. I don't think the guy that bought it has even used it. If I decide to go for it, I'm going to see about doing a compression test of some sort by just turning the crank bolt since there's no starter on it. I don't really think I care for it being orange going into a blue/white Z, but who knows...maybe I can come up with something.
According to my searching, it's 2 bolt main with the large journals, which from my understanding means it has the stronger steel crank?
Post Edited (Apr 17, 7:06pm)

Author: mario_83_280ZX_NA
Date: Apr 17, 12:33pm
Do you possibly have a break down for doing the swap that cheap?
The only way I could see it feasible for that little is homemade mounts, free engine and trans, all work done by yourself, and pretty much only having the driveshaft made at a shop.
get the JTR book. It has plans in it to make all the mounts yourself. It will cost you no more than $100.00 to get the steel and fab them up yourself. Probably alot less. Summit blockhugger headers are a bit under $100.00(I am using them and the fit and work just fine.) The trans will cost a bit depending which one you use. I paid 600.00 for my t-5 on e-bay. I paid 90.00 to have my driveshaft made. I am running a radiator out of a '84 camaro(4cyl car) and it cools very well with the Taurus 2 speed fan. Got both of those for about 60.00 total from the wrecking yard. All in all I bet if you sourced things out right you can do it for less than 1500.00. I had just around 1000.00 in my conversion (including trans and freshened up used motor) That is before I built the new 355 for it!

A good swap will cost more than 1K.. if you want to have it look halfdecent with DECENT engine.. not an economo gas guzzler that gets 0,1 HP per liter!
You can sleep in your car, but cant drive in your house
if you are fully in control, you are not driving fast enough!
79 ZXR 46K!
81 ZXT EURO 2+2
83 ZXT
All fine Fastback winnabego's

Tony, I meant the L engine revs better. The 327 likes to rev, but not AS MUCH as an L engine, ANY L engine... I should have phrased it better...
1972 240Z 4-speed, header, 3.54 R200, Crane XR-3000 Ignition, 280Z tach, Tokico Blue Struts, Suspension Tech Springs, Poly Bushings. Visit me at my website for your custom EFI & restored Datsun parts

If you really want a rare engine, you could try to find a Chevy 302 from a Z28 Camaro. Those engines would wind up tight. They are expensive if oyu find one though. You can make one with the right parts though.
1972 240Z 4-speed, header, 3.54 R200, Crane XR-3000 Ignition, 280Z tach, Tokico Blue Struts, Suspension Tech Springs, Poly Bushings. Visit me at my website for your custom EFI & restored Datsun parts

"Tony, I meant the L engine revs better. The 327 likes to rev, but not AS MUCH as an L engine, ANY L engine... I should have phrased it better..."
How about the L- Diesel
-1981 280zx
-89 Jeep Cherokee
F-54 - N-47 - 9.8:1 comp - 6-3-1 header -Schneider (470 lift, 280 dur.) - full 2 1/4 exhaust- Pallnet fuel rail - 6 puck ceramic clutch

Ok I found a guy saying I could have a 307. Are those any good? That seems to be the Chevy 5.0 (too bad it wouldn't sound like a Ford 5.0). I guess as long as it's the same block as the old design small block (so it'll fit with the JTR kit) then I assume it wouldn't be bad, especially since it's free ;)

It's the same block. The stroke is different as well as I believe the bore. It can be made into a decent engine with a little work and some cheap parts. If it's free and you just want to try the V8 swap, then I would get it.
1972 240Z 4-speed, header, 3.54 R200, Crane XR-3000 Ignition, 280Z tach, Tokico Blue Struts, Suspension Tech Springs, Poly Bushings. Visit me at my website for your custom EFI & restored Datsun parts

Yeah, it sounded like the other way around!
People Are Idiots, Just look around here and you will see!
Tony D: "Knowledgeable but Caustic"... rationull
My brother from another mother calls himself "Willie D"

Smog Engine, ugh, stay away. But free is free, do a rebuild with the right parts...and you're spending the same as building a 383 from scratch...
Maybe as a "mule engine" to fab stuff up, but I'd stick with the 327 over a 307 any day. 307 and 305's are mostly crap smog engines. Low horsepower, low rpm limits (not uncommon to get valve float at 4500 or BELOW on used engines!!!), and just disapointing overall performance. Sure they will give you 240 ft-lbs of torque, but only 150 hp ultimately (if you're lucky!)...
For that kindof number, I'd go with the Z-Turbo for more rush on the top end versus the jump out of the hole.
You would need 2.7 gears to make that 307 run right on the highway...
UGH! BLEYAH! Uk!
People Are Idiots, Just look around here and you will see!
Tony D: "Knowledgeable but Caustic"... rationull
My brother from another mother calls himself "Willie D"

Yea I knew the 305s were pretty crappy, mainly due to the heads. I just had never heard of the 307 and was curious what it was. I will probably stick with the 327 so I can have a 540Z rather than a 500Z :)
I think I read somewhere earlier today that the 307 was rated at aroudn 140hp or something like that?
Tony, if I go with the 327, would the R200 in my 280Z give me good overall performance? I don't think my car has the stock 3.54 (if I recall correctly), I think it has a slightly higher rear, because my car did come with an extra. Perhaps they swapped it out for the 3.9 or 4.11 and gave me the stock 3.54 in case I wanted to use it as a big boat anchor.

He just got back with me and told me it's the Chevy one from trucks and Malibus. Maybe I'll pick it up since it's free and still aspire to the 327 unless (since it uses the same crank as the 327 if I recall) I could have it bored out a little bigger or something. I've seen the prices of pistons, rods, and all those parts for domestic V8s and my jaw almost hit the floor they were so cheap.
Since it's the small block, couldn't I take better flowing heads off another small block and install on those or is there some difference that prevents that?

If the 307 is free then get it, sell it put that money in the 327. I've always liked 327's and think they are a great fit for Z's mainly due to were they make power.
Matt

The 307 is simply a 283 with a 327 crank.
The 307 added alittle torque to the 283 at a slight cost to rev, the 283 has the sky for RPM limit but like the 302 is not great for torque given the 3.00" stroke. The 307 is NOT at all like a 305, in fact a 307 IS considered a decent motor to build. The 305 with the same 3.48" stroke as the 350 is a dog and most performance parts push the RPM power band to high on a 305.
The 307 is however sensitive to head changes, just like a 283 and require SMALL chambers (closer to tiny). The problem with the 305 is NOT the heads. In fact putting a set of 305 heads on a 350 makes a great low RPM torque motor for the street.
As for color of the engine, engine paint is ~$4 a can not exactly a problem. The problem with R200 is NOT the choice of motor it is the traction and launch torque. I would not worry about hurting an R200 with a 307/327.
I used an R200 with a 383 launching at ~2600 RPM with 8.5" slicks ran 1.64 60 foots and didn't harm the R200 so I don't see you hurting it. In fact I used juice and ~100 was fine the weak link as mentioned is the u joints and half shaft orientation.
The squat of the Z MUST be controlled or you will tear CV's off a Z before you kill the R200.
The SBC combinations have been discussed numerous times on hybrid in the last year and posted torque/horsepower numbers for various engine combinations.
Good luck
"Do or Do Not...There is No Try... - Yoda"
Post Edited (Apr 19, 8:54pm)

And for a good combination for a 307. I would get a set of 305 heads from a TPI 305 motor 1987 - 1989 they are cheap boneyard types. Then use either a Performer or Performer RPM intake, coupled with a SMALL 4 barrel ~600 CFM best would be a vacuum advance secondaries. The intake will need the holes opened (email me I have one modifed already or can tell you how to do it).
I would buy a cam and lifter set from Summit ~$100 and get a cam with ~200 duration @50. This combo should yeild close to 300 flywheel and have peak torque ~4500 RPM and develop peak hp around 5800.
You can use LT1 springs (95 Camaro) cost ~$25 so the build is cheap. But as you can see a 350 is FAR easier to get similiar power.
Good luck
"Do or Do Not...There is No Try... - Yoda"

PS If you do build this type motor do NOT go >~220 duration since the original chevy '151' cam (327/350 cam) had I think it was 222 @ 50 with .442" lift and would be TOO big for a 307 street motor. It would push the peak hp probably ~6500 and lose bottom end.
This might sound good until you realise the heads won't flow what is required for that type hp/rpm. I would stick to small being better and consider SUM-K1102 the LARGEST.
If you don't take advice the next largest is SUM-K1103 and the smaller cam beats it until ~4800 RPM so expect a crappy street motor if you go larger.
Also I was wrong the kit (Cam and lifters) from Summit is $67.95, so cam kit with springs would cost ~$100.
If you wanted to add some bang you could use 1.6 Ratio roller rockers and lift would go from .420/.442 to .448/.471 well within spring limits. The larger rockers would help upper RPM responses and when you grew to a larger engine the intake, rockers would move up with you and motor should sell for what you put in it.
The combination will be a great setup for low dollars and I think you will be amazed what it will do.
Good luck
PS I ran setup on a desktop dyno and the numbers are higher than I stated. Also comparing what a 327 would do with similiar pieces justifies the close to 300 hp claim. A 327 I would estimate would yeild close to 325 hp for same cam heads. The 305 have 56 - 58 cc chambers so perfect for small cubes like 307.
"Do or Do Not...There is No Try... - Yoda"

1: 307 is Junk
2: 327 is not
3: If you can do a V8 swap (right) into a 240 for 1K I'll kiss your hiney I have 4k just in parts for the engine swap and if I add my labor for the whole car paint and all I would be really close to 30k
I Love It!! What is it again?
1951 Chevrolet Special Deluxe
1968 #'s Matching 400 4 speed GTO
1973 240z Iron Head LT1 4L60E
1979 Camaro LT1 T56
1992 Ford F-150
1995 Subarban
1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee

"1: 307 is Junk
2: 327 is not"
Hard to disagree when someone puts soo much time in their response?
Typical response for this site. Many do not let facts get in the way of their opinion. What I described are not random parts, and have been assembled in a few motors by a machinist friend for customers wanting CHEAP mild performance. WHY, because 307 blocks are usually given away, and compared to 305 good motors.
Compared to a 350:
302, 305, 307, 327 are ALL junk. And why people believe in the 327 is because it is from their youth. It WAS a great motor UNTIL the 350!
It comes down to cubes! Cubes win, and most parts are designed for a 350. But given a FREE motor a 307 CAN be a DECENT motor as I described others would pass up a free motor that is their problem.
"Do or Do Not...There is No Try... - Yoda"

What I mean to say is that compared to the 327 the 307 is junk compared to the 350 the 307 is pur junk and the 327 is not nearley as capable. The 307 flows just like a 305 but worse and the 327 lack the torque of a 350 and torque wins races. By the way do you see any 327's in my sig. IMO he should wait and find somthing to jerk a 350 out of and sell the rest of the parts (thats what I did) and the engine and trans I got for free. Mine is Fuel Injected I don't have to screw with it all the time and it will get 25 MPG on the highway and will start on the coldest of days NO PROB. So theres my full 2 cents since I was evidentley a little short on the last post.
I Love It!! What is it again?
1951 Chevrolet Special Deluxe
1968 #'s Matching 400 4 speed GTO
1973 240z Iron Head LT1 4L60E
1979 Camaro LT1 T56
1992 Ford F-150
1995 Subarban
1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee

“What I mean to say is that compared to the 327 the 307 is junk compared to the 350 the 307 is pur junk and the 327 is not nearley as capable.”
NO, a 327 is JUNK. It costs a lot more for the same HP than a larger displacement such as a 350. If a 327 can’t compete on a dollar for dollar basis it is considered less desirable or JUNK period.
“The 307 flows just like a 305 but worse and the 327 lack the torque of a 350 and torque wins races.”
The 305 and 307 are NOT even similar. The performance of an engine is dependent on bore to stroke ratio. The 305 has a SMALL bore relative to it's stroke. That LIMITS the 305's performance!
The 307 does NOT have the same problem, and lays between a 283 and a 327. BOTH those motors were considered desireable in their day. The 307 like the 400 was never sold as a performance engine and both get short changed by people.
In summary a free 307 is not a bad engine just build it on a STRICT budget and remember it is limited to ~300 HP and you will be fine. If you want >300 build a 350 period. IF your needs are higher performance MAYBE a 377 or 383 could be justified. A destroked 400 (377) is a monster rev engine but COSTS. Same for a 383 until you need new pistons and or crank it's cost is prohibitive.
I do however agree a carb is ancient technology.
I have an aluminum headed LT1, 224/232 .508"/.525", a 4L60E with a 4000 stall with 2.6 STR. It is the ONLY way to go. Pulls like a mother yet does great on street and still gets good mileage, and maintains decent street manners. On street the stall ends up ~2000, but at track with slicks loosens up.
Once you know how to program an electronic engine there is NO comparison. LSX is great, but the engines and tuning tools are far too expensive.
BUT his decision is based on a FREE engine. A set of junkyard heads ~$75, $100 cam, lifters, and springs plus ~$125 for a valve job makes a $300 investment. As I said that will give him a ~300 hp setup and the intake and carb and or rockers would go to 'next' engine.
A 307 producing ~300 hp would bring at least $250 so he has little risk and can get into a V8 for less upfront cost. That was the decision and why I recommended what I did.
If you have money I would definitely recommend an LT1. I bought an LT1, wire harness, ECM, and 4L60E 2 ½ years ago for $650, rebuilt engine for parts since I did machine work (parts were $350), transmission parts cost $150, and stall designed for my Z was $560.
So I think that was ~$1150 if my addition is right. Since I converted my Z in 1987 for machine time at an Air Force base and maybe $20 of steel stock I don't have alot in my setup.
All depends what you can do yourself and what others will charge you when you can't do it for yourself. I wish I could afford an LS7, but until they come down I will live with 'old' technology and have a Z that does <7.5 1/8 on motor, does alittle better on a little juice (6.75 as in pic on profile), and gets ~20 mpg.

Well I will agree with you on one thing the 307 is Junk and it takes the same money to build a 350 comparably. So why would you. The 327 IMO is a decent engine for a rebuild of a classic just to say that it has a 327 is a selling point( don't ask me why but like somone said above they get all nostalgic over it or somthin. I too would love to have an LS7 to call my own would be great to have that thing in a Z but youd have to install a some serious rear end setup for it and do pretty in depth structual Mods in order to keep the thing together. BUT WOW would it be worth it!! What is the HP on a LS7 stocker I think I saw a basline in a mag at 425hp and like 460 f.lbs that would definitley air out the chassis on a Z. I like a 407 personally if your going to build it to race but I am not an engine builder(I have once or twice put one together but specing one out you are on a different playing feild than me with your knoledge) I know I had a freind with a 407 that I helped him build that was in a full bodied chevelle 1966 model runing low 10's and pulling the front tires way high with no spray needed. That is no small feat. but anyway....
I Love It!! What is it again?
1951 Chevrolet Special Deluxe
1968 #'s Matching 400 4 speed GTO
1973 240z Iron Head LT1 4L60E
1979 Camaro LT1 T56
1992 Ford F-150
1995 Subarban
1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Post Edited (Apr 20, 11:31pm)

"Well I will agree with you on one thing the 307 is Junk and it takes the same money to build a 350 comparably. So why would you. "
Because the motor is FREE!
"Do or Do Not...There is No Try... - Yoda"

I guess I just don't think of it in those lines when I build a car. I want to never have to tear it apart again. I guarantee that if he puts a 300 hp motor in his ride he will get the bug and end up pulling it back out again for why? Why not just save a couple hundred bucks and get a 350 core to build and do it once.
I Love It!! What is it again?
1951 Chevrolet Special Deluxe
1968 #'s Matching 400 4 speed GTO
1973 240z Iron Head LT1 4L60E
1979 Camaro LT1 T56
1992 Ford F-150
1995 Subarban
1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee

PS I have had a 305, 327, 383 in my Z. I now have an LT1 the electronic controls allows a smaller cam and smaller displacement to out perform my old 383. I had access to a machine shop and free cores.
I also had a 302 from a friend in it for a week and it was TERRIBLE. The motor was 13:1 and had NO bottom end. It revved but until ~4000 was gutless. HE used my Z as a test bed, and did some work for me for using it. He sold the motor after he was VERY disappointed with performance.
The LT1 has 350 224/233 .508/.524 while the 383 had 234/244 .488/.510 and the LT1 is MUCH faster. It out performed the 383 with even a stock torque convertor (~1400 stall), and made up for crappy 60 foots.
So IMO an LT1 from the start is the way to go BUT for up front cost a free engine is TOUGH to pass up. Pulling a V8 out of a Z gets to be easy. I can remove and replace mine in ~4 hours with help aligning the tranny is all (15 minutes help or another hour by myself)

I agree on the ease of putting the engine in and out of a Z( I did mine alone) but I hate doing things twice or three times I have just learned from experiance that these F.I Chevrolet Engines are by far superior to anything out there. Especially now days with gas prices. Thats why I put the LT1 in mine and why I plan to never put another carbed engine in anything unless it is numbers matching or a concours car. Where are you anyway him your in Cali right?
I Love It!! What is it again?
1951 Chevrolet Special Deluxe
1968 #'s Matching 400 4 speed GTO
1973 240z Iron Head LT1 4L60E
1979 Camaro LT1 T56
1992 Ford F-150
1995 Subarban
1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee

No not Ca just on vacation and up late.
"Do or Do Not...There is No Try... - Yoda"
Post Edited (Apr 21, 9:20am)