so I'm going to sand down the Z (I figure since it's just a shell, now's a good time to give it some color) I'm going to sand it down to raw metal, and take care of any rust that I find.
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&productId=200319667&R=200319667 (using this sander as well as a block and paper)
after it's all sanded down I'm going to take it to a real body shop, have the drivers side rocker replaced, and have them go over it one more time...
Then after all the nice bodywork is done, haul it over a maaco for some primer and quick color (and pay the painter extra if it's done right -- highest grade of course)
My question is, since the sanding I'm going is going to be done over a period of a week or possibly two, is it alright to use spray primer just as a cover to prevent rust? I know most of it'll get sanded off when it goes to a real body shop (not maaco)
... I dont see anything wrong, but everyone advises against the use of spray primer...
This will be a daily driver, not a showcar.
Thanks,
"The Z's disease won't make anything turn black, wither, and fall off, nor turn cancerous." - Tony D
"Take it to a track where BOTH drivers mean business or it's just one sided mechanical masterbation." - Hybrid77z
Post Edited (Mar 3, 7:31pm)

Stay away from spray primer.... It may not mix with whatever the Maaco guy uses, then he has to sand it ALL off and reprime. This adds to your cost. Go to the paint store, get some etching primer and spray that. It will keep the flash rust away and will be compatible with the stuff the bodyman is going to use. You can get etching primer in rattle cans that is good as well. BUT, get it from a paint store, not the local autoparts place. If you use the cheap rattle can primer, you might as well use Rustoleum to finish the paint job... If you don't want to do it right the first time, just think about how much more it will cost to do it twice...
1972 240Z 4-speed, header, 3.54 R200, Crane XR-3000 Ignition, 280Z tach, Tokico Blue Struts, Suspension Tech Springs, Poly Bushings. Visit me at my website for your custom EFI & restored Datsun parts

so they do make the good stuff in a can... awesome....
Things rust overnight here (salt air on an island, next to the water) so I'm just trying to keep it clean...
"The Z's disease won't make anything turn black, wither, and fall off, nor turn cancerous." - Tony D
"Take it to a track where BOTH drivers mean business or it's just one sided mechanical masterbation." - Hybrid77z

When you say "Spray primer" I take it that you mean a rattle-can primer - and the answer is no, That stuff is not waterproof so you will be forced to redo your work. Rust will very likey form under the spay can primer.
You will want to use an epoxy primer and spray gun.
Good luck.
1976 280z w/ dual Webers 140k miles and climbing, Tokico Struts & Springs, uncracked dash and all instruments work incl. the clock.

I don't mind having having a recoat of professional primer -- but I will need a temp cover, -- but you say the spray rattle-can primer is not water proof, so it's completely out...
http://www.por15.com/Default.aspx?TabId=131
Is that considered a true "etching" primer? ... Does it matter if I use etching over epoxy or visa versa?
Thanks for the quick replys...
and btw, anyone have any input on the sander listed above?
"The Z's disease won't make anything turn black, wither, and fall off, nor turn cancerous." - Tony D
"Take it to a track where BOTH drivers mean business or it's just one sided mechanical masterbation." - Hybrid77z
Post Edited (Mar 3, 7:44pm)

http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/products/show_product.cfm?product=7565
Perhaps? ... it's quite a bit more expensive than the rattle-can crap...
I really just need a cover that can be painted over incase some stays behind.
"The Z's disease won't make anything turn black, wither, and fall off, nor turn cancerous." - Tony D
"Take it to a track where BOTH drivers mean business or it's just one sided mechanical masterbation." - Hybrid77z
Post Edited (Mar 3, 8:21pm)

Primer is not water proof but that is not what you are looking for any way. You just need a temp cap against oxidation. Why would you sand it to bare metal? This is just beyond me. It’s like going rabbit hunting with a tank. If you want to do some sanding your self go talk to a body shop first. See what a car looks like when it’s prepped for paint. There will be very few bare metal areas that require primer other than where body work was done and it is likely they will spray the entire car with a non sanding sealer prior to color.
You have probably seen those signs saying our rate is $. If you worked on it first then $$. If you worked on it then want to watch us fix it then $$$. At my shop that sign is not a joke. Someone brought me a fender today that was sprayed with some kind of rock ass hard plastic primer. What would have cost him $70 is now $160 and no telling what he paid for the crap that was on it. I ended up using stripper and a putty knife, then a bath and about 15 sheets of 220 / 320 on it. My point is if he wanted to prep it and came and asked first what to do it would have only cost him about $40. So go ask your painter!

hmm... perhaps I should sand off this thick ass silver paint down to the factory green and only go down to bare metal where I can see rust forming? --
"The Z's disease won't make anything turn black, wither, and fall off, nor turn cancerous." - Tony D
"Take it to a track where BOTH drivers mean business or it's just one sided mechanical masterbation." - Hybrid77z

Yes, if the factory paint or primer are in good condition just scuff it up. Only go to bare metal where you have to. And trust me on this- do NOT use rustoleum products on the exterior of your car, or anything else you plan to one day paint with real automotive paint. I used spray-can rustoleum primer on my zx, and when I sprayed my PPG epoxy it all lifted. What a pain. I had to sand it all off- basically start over. BIG mistake. Do it right the first time. You can get a quart or two of epoxy primer- its waterproof- a cheap HF gun and borrow a compressor if you have to. Spray at dawn or during the day in your back yard- you don't even need a booth.
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1982 280zx

Yes just use a cheep home depot, harbor freight gun for the primer.
Stay away from rattle can.
I have come across Dupont 1K primer in a rattle can. Never used it though. SEM self-etching primer in a rattle can gave me fits later as we missed a spot here and there with the 2K primer over the SEM. Major showstopper! In those spots...the base color coat looked like curdled milk in about an hour. Had to re-do those spots, wipe down with thinner to bare metal and start over.
-Pete
1978 Z ATK F54-P79
Drink Sobe No Fear Gold
Tokico Illuminas, Poly bushings,Techno Tuning TC rods. Bad Dog frame rails. Toyota 4 piston calipers & power slot rotors. MSA 2.5” turbo exhaust & K&N cold air intake. H4’s

http://www.autobody101.com/
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93' 300ZX nonTwinTurbo
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well, I was hoping for a quick temp easy way out.. now I'm just buying the gun and hitting it with good primer myself..
Thanks for all the input
"The Z's disease won't make anything turn black, wither, and fall off, nor turn cancerous." - Tony D
"Take it to a track where BOTH drivers mean business or it's just one sided mechanical masterbation." - Hybrid77z

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay3?storeId=6970&productId=200307211&R=200307211
This kind I'm gun I'm assuming? I'll pick one up tomorrow if this is it...
"The Z's disease won't make anything turn black, wither, and fall off, nor turn cancerous." - Tony D
"Take it to a track where BOTH drivers mean business or it's just one sided mechanical masterbation." - Hybrid77z

I lived on the coast of Fla and know about the salt in the air as well as the humidity. Overnight, anything that is bare metal is now a fuzzy brown with rust. I used a product called OSPHO. I would leave them in bare metal for months and no sign of rust starting anywhere. Save yourself a bunch of money and time. Just coat it with OSPHO and give it to the body shop when you are done with it. OSPHO is a type of acid that stops rust dead and drys clear.
77 260Z Rat Rod

hmm, we use that stuff on the boats..but I never thought to use it on the car..
"The Z's disease won't make anything turn black, wither, and fall off, nor turn cancerous." - Tony D
"Take it to a track where BOTH drivers mean business or it's just one sided mechanical masterbation." - Hybrid77z

If you use ospho, make sure you wash it off completely before you top coat it. And, that spray gun looks great... but one of the $25-40 models would also work. Doesn't even have to be HVLP. (in fact, depending on your compressor you might be better off without it)
---------------
1982 280zx

Why do all that work if you're going to have MAACO screw it all up? From expirence, They use junk paint, no matter what prep options you pay for all you will get is the cheap job for an additional cost, and they will never stand behind their product. Another thought is if they screw it up the first time (and they will) why would one let them make a bigger mess the second time?

I'm not looking for a real high class job, just something to add some good color to it, -- it's going to be a daily driver..
"The Z's disease won't make anything turn black, wither, and fall off, nor turn cancerous." - Tony D
"Take it to a track where BOTH drivers mean business or it's just one sided mechanical masterbation." - Hybrid77z

If it's worth doing....It's worth doing right. If nothing else, learn to do it yourself. ANYTHING is better than MAACO. What about a high school auto shop class?

I believe MAACO work is guaranteed for 5 years. Been over how and why maaco can spray for $500. I can give you a little better job for about twice that. Don’t believe all urban myths/legends.

Yeah, Maaco's low end is guaranteed for 2 years, the high end for 5. They painted my dads truck about a year ago, cost him 400 -- doesn't look half bad for a truck costantly filled with fish/shrimp/doors/nets/etc.
"The Z's disease won't make anything turn black, wither, and fall off, nor turn cancerous." - Tony D
"Take it to a track where BOTH drivers mean business or it's just one sided mechanical masterbation." - Hybrid77z