http://www.vwtrendsweb.com/tech/0401vwt_super/
What do you guys know about Auto Strip? Does it work as well as these people made it to? Looks like an easy way to remove paint.
1976 280Z
Draw-Through Turbo, 10 PSI, 4 Bbl Holley, E88, L28 (Flat), 10:1 CR, 5 Spd
1974 Corvette Stingray:
350, 400 Automatic, T-Tops, 8.5:1 CR, 78,000 Miles
1994 Acura Integra:
1.8L, 5 Spd, 189,000 and Counting!
Post Edited (Feb 16, 6:58am)

there is no topic.
a topic would be something like " auto strip, does it work" or something to that effect.

Fine, I will change it.
Thank you for your redundant, unhelpful post :)
1976 280Z
Draw-Through Turbo, 10 PSI, 4 Bbl Holley, E88, L28 (Flat), 10:1 CR, 5 Spd
1974 Corvette Stingray:
350, 400 Automatic, T-Tops, 8.5:1 CR, 78,000 Miles
1994 Acura Integra:
1.8L, 5 Spd, 189,000 and Counting!
Post Edited (Feb 16, 6:59am)

thanks. if all post titles were "what if" or "check this out", the forum would be almost useless for finding stuff.
thanks again!
79 280ZX -The best selling sports car of all time

Just about anything in a spray can doesn't work that well, if at all. I tried Auto Strip the other day and it did nothing. The best stuff you can use is the Aircraft Stripper. It comes in a gallon can (do not buy the spray can version) and you can brush it on. It will start to work before you can finsh brushing it on a fender. I used this stuff before they came out with the low oder version, but I suggest you use a vented mask and heavy duty gloves that go to your elbows because this stuff will burn like crazy if it gets on you. I used my sandblasting gloves that are made of thick rubber. One coat and rinse does a good job, but two coats will strip everything off. It costs about $20.00 but is worth it when you see how easy it is to work with.
73 240Z - Nissan Sport project car

Thanks RAZ1, do you think I can get that at any paint store that would carry automotive paint?
Author: tkr514
Date: Feb 16, 8:13pm
thanks. if all post titles were "what if" or "check this out", the forum would be almost useless for finding stuff.
thanks again!
Well, all post titles aren't "what if" or "check this out," are they?
No.
Three topics in a row on my part:
Yes.
Asking your opinion on forum guidelines?
No.
There's no need to play forum police, i'm sure that this thread will be deleted anyway.
1976 280Z
Draw-Through Turbo, 10 PSI, 4 Bbl Holley, E88, L28 (Flat), 10:1 CR, 5 Spd
1974 Corvette Stingray:
350, 400 Automatic, T-Tops, 8.5:1 CR, 78,000 Miles
1994 Acura Integra:
1.8L, 5 Spd, 189,000 and Counting!

Autozone, Pep Boys and just about any other parts store should carry it. Go to the paint section, usually on the bottom shelf from the spray can paints.
73 240Z - Nissan Sport project car

OK,
i'll withdraw my appreciation if that will make you feel better... geeze.
TONS of similar topics in the Tech forum.
If you are just wanting to remove paint, any automotive remover is fine (aircraft ones are not "better" and are usually formulated to remove other paint types that automotive people use). if you have an aluminum car painted with imron, then use aircraft stripper, otherwise use auto stripper.

Aircraft is the best I have used,that spray on crap just dont cut it........
Jimmy
83ZX Turbo

though the BEST thing is just not remove all the paint.
Stripping a car bare is a good way to actually start corrosion on a car...

tkr514, adding more paint to a car that already has had multiply paint jobs is not good either. After the 1st or second new paint job, especially if the factory had the clear worn off, moisture gets inbetween those layers. Over time it eats out and down into the metal. Then you have 3 paint jobs, primer, and clear to get off the car to get to the rust. THis is saying that no body filler was used before any of the repaints.
Unless the car has good clear and you just wanna change the color, repainting a car over and over is NOT the best way to handle things. And i can bet that most z's have had there share of body work and repaints.
I had 7 layers of paint to sand my car to bare metal, and bondo. Once you have the car stripped to bare metal you just have to take care that you get it covered and dont trap moisture in the process. It just takes some care and a little more time to do it right. BUT once its done RIGHT the new paint lasts much, much longer.
Jason:
'77 280zT coupe: 8.8:1, flat tops, .030 over, Msd-6al, 60mm tb, cold air, 2.5" exhaust and DP, no cat, GReddy type RS BOV, medium intercooler

only if you have 7 layers of different paints on a car, it's not normal and that does change things. if the car just has 7 coats, that's nothing and can be painted again after surface prep (hell, i use 7 coats when i do a normal job anyway).
just be damn sure that if you take it to metal that you prep the metal and prime and then paint ASAP. otherwise, you WILL trap moisture if you wait before final topcoats...
79 280ZX -The best selling sports car of all time
Post Edited (Feb 16, 12:13pm)

I've used aircraft stripper - its best to scuff up the paint with 80 grit before you apply it, it will work much better. Also if used in the sun or hot weather (like a phoenix driveway) it evaporates quickly and you will use more. I found it cheaper and in a larger container at a paint store. Autozone had a quart size and more expensive. Wear eye protection - the stuff is NASTY.
72 240Z no engine or trans rusty
72 240Z unmolested AZ car - interior needs help but car is complete
70 240Z AZ no-rust desert dweller saved from Potters Field

death to forum nazis.
_____________________________________________
'05 350Z Chrome Silver Touring
'73 240Z

lol, misusing the word "nazi" is the same thing as wearing a big confederate flag belt buckle. both make it easy to spot the weak minded.
thanks!