Zer's, Bamam,Pallnet, rick, tom, steve, guy in Canada,
2.5 " 304 stainless T3 flange IN stock.
Pete
petezracing@yahoo.com
366 H.P. 418 Torque 6cyl @ 14 P.S.I. 90 Octane
Post Edited (Feb 14, 12:05pm)

Is this the downpipe for the 280z only and not the zxt?
___________________________________________________________
1980 280zx.......Turbo swap is almost finished.


Email sent.
SPEED IS MY DRUG OF CHOICE..LET ME DRIVE!


You are talking about something like this Pete?
http://www.angelfire.com/extreme/280zxt/images10/flange1.jpg
signed pseudotechnician view point, Sniper S^$ker, with girly arms : UCC 1-207

Jeff,
I did not look in detail of your CAD but if it fits, yes T3 outlet flange.
I will try to post some pictures. This batch after the water jet I CNCd. As you know working with 1/2" 304 is tricky.
Did I read you blew your motor? Or how is the trouble shooting going?
Hopefuly it is not the motor.
Pete
Adrenalin is 100+ M.P.H. 100 feet before a 90 degree turn!

366 H.P. 418 Torque 6cyl @ 14 P.S.I. 90 Octane
Post Edited (Feb 15, 8:43am)

I know all to well how difficult 304 is to work with. That stuff eats tools like crazy. I never did try a waterjet system. I have seen them work and they seem really good, but I have done mine conventional, and that was time consuming. The last run I did was 18 psc and it took about a week that time. I wasn't even running a CNC program that time. They turned out very well, but what a pain.
Yes you heard correctly, my bottom end went south due to a number of factors, tuning, screwed up fuel injectors. I got the intake and exhaust off tonight, piston is on the back side of the exhaust valve for 2&3 and I didn't want to look to well. It just made me feel sick, brand new 3K cylinder head now it needs refresh as well as refrewsh on the botton end, new pistons/rings.
The part that really bothers me the most is that the engine really did not display all of the classic symptoms of running lean, it pinge a little, but for short instances and I would let up. The trouble I was having was very difficult to trouble shoot as it happened only when the rpm's just went over 5K so that was not good, but it was the only way I could trouble shoot the problem. Most people thought it was misfiring, which would have not been that big a deal, but it was just running out of fuel, and that was a big deal.
The South Flordia header I spoke to you about at the MSA show, here what two years ago has warped again. The last rework job ended costing me about 350.00 with surfacing, welding back at South Flordia, and shipping. Again this heder has plagued my life. I dont even want to put it back on the car again. I know a guy that can do a part in stainless, but he is going to charge me a good amount for the job.
I'm really not feeling to good about the whole thing at this point. I just have to much invested in the car, and I keep thinking it is about it for me. I just blew right at 15K on the engine up in smoke literally, just to basically start all over again. I just dont know what the extent of the damage is at this point, but I know it isn't going to be cheap, and I dont know if I want to go through all the time money and trouble again. This header this has really got me bothered, total piece of trash from day one. I dont think it can be salvaged, it warped exactly the same wy it did last time. I don't know.
signed pseudotechnician view point, Sniper S^$ker, with girly arms : UCC 1-207

Jeff,
So I have met you. That was you at the MSA, that showed me your Florida header.
Last year I thought I would be making and selling lots of Turbo stuff for old Z’s and one year later I’m trying to break even for last years expenses, but I’m having fun, and thank the Lord I have an other businesses that let me play with Z stuff.
My plan to make a stainless header is up in the air. I also have a person that can make a good stainless one for about $1300.00. Let me know if you are interested.
Sorry to hear about your motor but it's probably not as bad as you think it might be.
I have read your posts and think, you over analyze lots of stuff, not being a bad thing, just over kill in some cases. You are a smart guy.
We strong motor guys just expect to do engine rebuilds as part of having a high performance Z.
From my past experiences, the constant battle between reliability and MEGA power has kept me to limiting my boost to 14P.S.I. a really fast car is only fun when it is running. I now have 11,000 miles on this rebuild, with many hours or track time and no signs of any problems. The 14P.S.I. gives me 366H.P. 418 Torque with that I still have a bullet proof motor, I’m 100% confident I could drive cross country today if needed. .

I understand your frustration, been there, unless you torn up all bearing surfaces your rebuild should cost very little, if you provide the labor.
I’m interested in how you could think you lost $15,000.00 in your motor?
Even with a $2500.00 TECH II & $1300 GT35-R I’m in for a total of $8300.00.
Last time my Z was down after a long race day I almost went and bought the 345H.P Crossfire, then I thought about it and remembered Z’s are really cool and anyone can go and buy a fast car not everyone can make one.
Keep in your mind how fun it is to blow a way that unsuspecting Corvette, Mustang, Viper, or any heavy American muscle machine. With that in mind you will rebuild. Spend a few hundred dollars for a good dyno tune, keep your boost down, and know that any pre ignition is not acceptable and you will be able to drive your fast Z for years with no problems.
Life is great!!!!
Pete