I'm on Northern Tools and Harbor Freight's websites looking for tools necessary to rebuild a bottom end such as micrometers, telescoping guages, tap and die sets, etc. I only see 1 micrometer on NT but lots of different calipers. Vernier, some digital ones, etc. They measure inside, outside, and depth. With all 3 measurements, does that replace a plain ol micrometer or is it something completely different?
I'm flipping through my Chilton manual, and Tom Monroe's book on how to rebuild a Datsun OHC motor. Can anyone give me a list of what tools I need to build the bottom end and check clearances and all that? I've got most of them in my head and I'm looking, but I don't want to miss any.

If you don't know what a vernier caliper is you don't want one. A digital caliper will server you well.
and YES there is a reason to have a caliper AND a micrometer. some times the caliper can measure something crooked and in those circumstances a micrometer is better. Break disk thickness comes to mind.
depending on what your doing you can get away with just a caliper though.
1994 300ZX N/A T-top 5-spd

It looks like most of the calipers sold on these 2 sites are fancy digital Vernier calipers. The digital ones would just make the measurements much quicker to read and work with. There's a 6" one on sale on Harbor Freight for just $15.99 right now. Seems like that'd be sufficient for most, and maybe splurge on the 12" digi just in case for $34.99. I'm assuming this would be the only caliper I would need. HF has a 0-4" micrometer set with switchable anvils, and I'm sure that would more than cover my needs for a micrometer for $29.99. And a set of 6 telescoping guages for $15.99. Aside from a torque wrench, 1/2 drive click type (or digital if I find a good price), feeler guages, tap and die set, ring expander, and ring compressor...what else would I need for measuring and redoing the bottom end? I figure if I can measure the cranks and rods to make sure they're all w/in specs still and not warped, then all I have to have a machine shop do is hot tank the block, hone or bore it, magnaflux the rods and crank, then polish the crank and balance the rotating assembly, and press the pistons onto the rods. Not having to have them check the crank and all to make sure it's w/in specs might save me a few bucks.

As long as you don't need the measurements to bee TOO accurate, those will do fine.
Sorry, I don't buy anything from HF that I don't expect to throw away after the first or second use.
Most of the crap they sell is cheap Chinese junk that is very poorly designed and manufactured.
Their tolerance for defects is VERY high.
72 WooHoo!! In good shape too...
72 Rolling Chassis (RB or LS1?)
80 NA SCCA ST2/CP (Car + Tree = Dead)
82 NA 3.0L the rust monster got it
82 ZXT 3.1L, 25psi! Hit in the right rear. ;(
83 parts car
92 TT Sold! ;(
02 Looking for an '03 made in '02

Where do you suggest I check out then? I just remembered places like that sold tons of different types of tools, and thought I'd check them out.