If this is put on a street car you would have to take the key with you. Else some kid may take it as a souvenir and leave you stranded.

I have to agree and that was my second thought. First thought is do I want to drill a hole in this area? And third exposure to the elements.

In my TVR I put my kill switch inside where I could reach it incase of an accident. A lot of race cars (vintage in the case) have them in reach just in case and per rules. On a street car which I'm supposing this is for I would want it either at arms length (not necessary) similiar to why you have a fire extinguisher or at least the activation button for a fire kill system.

For this application I could see the switch in the boot area and if you feel the need, pull the key and the car is "dead". Some switches (not the crap HF ones) have a higher density die electric plastic, better connectors and auxillary connections to keep the power going to the battery and alarm (if the alarm does not have a backup power source). In the case of this switch I wouldn't even consider it unless it had the auxillary connections (my TVR had them) and a provision to mount in the trunck area.

Of course if you did go the route of the boot application well you could simply buy the simple brass disconnects (that have the green knob). You just mount on a terminal and unscrew the knob when you wish too. A lot cheaper if you hinding the switch anyway.

-C Man, while this looks nice and all. 137.00 dollars for a flange and some 0 gauge cable is NUTS. It looks nice and all, but not really worth the price. However, good luck with the sale, it is perfect for those with little mechanical experience... I agree with some of the previous comments. An inside mount would be nicer and better suited to most of our needs. Well I see that this has turned into a little discussion. To all the people comparing the harbor freight switch to the Hella switch we are using.....I won't even use tools from harbor freight, let alone put a taiwanese knockoff electrical part on my car. As for all the comments about the price...we are not trying to rip people off....we are just trying to design nice products that integrate well with the vehicles we are working on. The cool little bracket happens to be a one off billett aluminum plate that was machined on a lathe. So I guess you could go buy a cheap switch and then go to a local machine shop and have them make you some sort of mounting plate. I'm pretty sure after all was said and done it would end up costing as much as the kit we are offering.

And yes this could be mounted in the cockpit, you would just need more battery cable. Casey,
Help me undestand this concept. This would essentially act as an interruptor between the battery and the ignition system correct? Have you had problems with the alarm resetting after a period of time? Do you know how long the battery backup for the alarm lasts?
I'm more interested in this as a deterrent rather than it's intended safety use. Thanks again. I have similar threads about my products too. Always some guy says.. "Hey, I could go to Home Depot and buy some hardware and aluminum channel and make my own camera mount. Why should I spend $50 for $10 worth of material?"

And always, some people like to tinker and make stuff and that is cool. Some want someone else to have done the work and have good instructions, ready to fit stuff. And what some people may not see, is the costs of making those bits and sourcing the parts. Not much different than a certain someone claiming the entire Elise is $10k worth of aluminum, plastic, and a Toyota drivetrain... so why do they charge over $40K?

P.S. The earlier race prepped Elise cars had the switch on the front clam near the windshield. I believe the Lotus supplied cars now have an additional cutoff inside the cockpit. I have similar threads about my products too. Always some guy says.. "Hey, I could go to Home Depot and buy some hardware and aluminum channel and make my own camera mount. Why should I spend $50 for $10 worth of material?" And always, some people like to tinker and make stuff and that is cool. Some want someone else to have done the work and have good instructions, ready to fit stuff. And what some people may not see, is the costs of making those bits and sourcing the parts. Not much different than a certain someone claiming the entire Elise is $10k worth of aluminum, plastic, and a Toyota drivetrain... so why do they charge over $40K? P.S. The earlier race prepped Elise cars had the switch on the front clam near the windshield. I believe the Lotus supplied cars now have an additional cutoff inside the cockpit.
Right as Rain, Randy. Some PICs: Casey,
Help me undestand this concept. This would essentially act as an interruptor between the battery and the ignition system correct? Have you had problems with the alarm resetting after a period of time? Do you know how long the battery backup for the alarm lasts?
I'm more interested in this as a deterrent rather than it's intended safety use. Thanks again. I have never tested this product in regards to the alarm system. If I get a chance I will see how the alarm reacts. I have similar threads about my products too. Always some guy says.. "Hey, I could go to Home Depot and buy some hardware and aluminum channel and make my own camera mount. Why should I spend $50 for $10 worth of material?"

And always, some people like to tinker and make stuff and that is cool. Some want someone else to have done the work and have good instructions, ready to fit stuff. And what some people may not see, is the costs of making those bits and sourcing the parts. Not much different than a certain someone claiming the entire Elise is $10k worth of aluminum, plastic, and a Toyota drivetrain... so why do they charge over $40K?

P.S. The earlier race prepped Elise cars had the switch on the front clam near the windshield. I believe the Lotus supplied cars now have an additional cutoff inside the cockpit.
This switch could easily be placed inside or on the front fender. We placed on the inside of the back clam for visual appearance reasons(didn't want to upset the upset the lines of the vehicle) I have similar threads about my products too. Always some guy says.. "Hey, I could go to Home Depot and buy some hardware and aluminum channel and make my own camera mount. Why should I spend $50 for $10 worth of material?"

And always, some people like to tinker and make stuff and that is cool. Some want someone else to have done the work and have good instructions, ready to fit stuff. And what some people may not see, is the costs of making those bits and sourcing the parts. Not much different than a certain someone claiming the entire Elise is $10k worth of aluminum, plastic, and a Toyota drivetrain... so why do they charge over $40K?

P.S. The earlier race prepped Elise cars had the switch on the front clam near the windshield. I believe the Lotus supplied cars now have an additional cutoff inside the cockpit.
Actually I never complained about the price. In reality (and I've done this) sourcing a GOOD part and having a custom part made (in this case milled) may well cost you over the money "casey" is charging. Depends on who you source. I like to tinker so maybe that's why I see the deal in this. Also there will far less time spent doing your own thing.

I figured you could place it anywhere the mount would go. Anyone interested should check out a few race/vintage race books to get some idea's.

Also Casey" if your going to check the alarm operation can you look into (if there is one) hella unit that has aux connections for equipment? The type which I'm sure you already know that connect the aux equipment to the powersource and just the main cable to the battery or possibly chassis(ground) is interrupted?

-C
And yes this could be mounted in the cockpit, you would just need more battery cable.

where do you suggest mounting this in the cockpit? Actually I never complained about the price.
-C
And I was not referencing your post. If you disconnect the ground, then you will lose the connections to the alarm. The alarm has a built in battery, but that is supposed to power the siren for a bit if someone triggers the alarm and disconnects the batter, not provide power to keep the alarm functioning for any length of time.

Additionally, you will disconnect the radio (there go your pre-sets), as well as the ECU (does it need to re-learn everything all over again?

To use the switch for an emergency, most cars require a "double switch", one the disconnects the batter as well as the alternator. Just disconnecting the battery will not necessarily stop the engine, as it can often continue to run on the output of the alternator. Additionally, if you disconnect the battery on a modern computer controlled engine, you run the distinct possibility of frying the electronics (due to over-voltage spikes that the battery normally absorbs). Hella battery cutoff switches, and FIA approved battery & alternator cutoffs are commonly available for around $45. You can find them slightly cheaper if you shop around...

The nice aluminum mounting flange is nice, but you could also drill a smaller hole, mount the switch from the back side and secure it with two nice screws. It just might look "cleaner" when the red key is removed (small black hole instead of a large silver disk).

If you want to disconnect the battery for long term storage (or even for security when parked, you could get the type that mount to the battery. Unscrew the knob and you disconnect the battery for around $20. Even J.C.Whitney sells them including the low voltage bypass to keep the alarm/radio/ECU powered.

Also keep in mind that the Elise has a separate coolant pump that kicks on if the engine is hot when you park it, and the engine is "heat soaking" and getting to hot...

I can't wait for the emails telling me I'm wrong for trying to scare off vendors... I think the FF kit is nice, those links you sent were just off the shelf kits while FF spent some time fabbing up a nice mount.. I'm just looking for something to mount inside to shut off because I only drive once every 2 weeks or so..

you are soo wrong scaring off vendors! here is my comeback "touring wheels" Time is money, boys & girls and you probably could do something similar, better, whatever for less out-of-pocket, but what is your time worth? FF is in business and needs to make a profit, so buy it if you like it and don't if you don't. Or better yet, if you can do better, do it and sell it to everyone else at the cheap price.

And Casey, you better not look down your nose too hard at Harbor Freight. The Chinese are coming on strong and many, many Harbor Freight products are quite good. I use their Aluminum jacks and electric impact wrenches pretty vigorously with no ill effect at all. Some of the Chinese calipers are great. And Harbor Freight has these aluminum jack stands that are to die for in the race trailer - you can carry 4 of them around in one hand.

oh-oh - hijacking thread. I will stop now. I think the FF kit is nice, those links you sent were just off the shelf kits while FF spent some time fabbing up a nice mount..
Not disagreeing with that at all. It looks like a nice "plug and play" for someone that just wants to buy one and be done with it...


here is my comeback "touring wheels" ... And Harbor Freight has these aluminum jack stands that are to die for in the race trailer - you can carry 4 of them around in one hand.
Link please And I was not referencing your post.
Oh I know Randy.....I was just referencing to yours and others at the same time.... I'm lazy. [quote=kverges

And Casey, you better not look down your nose too hard at Harbor Freight. The Chinese are coming on strong and many, many Harbor Freight products are quite good. I use their Aluminum jacks and electric impact wrenches pretty vigorously with no ill effect at all. Some of the Chinese calipers are great. And Harbor Freight has these aluminum jack stands that are to die for in the race trailer - you can carry 4 of them around in one hand.

oh-oh - hijacking thread. I will stop now.[/QUOTE]


I agree..I have the aluminum "race" jack (all silver) and it works awesome and had for the past three years. I also have some other items including a retractable hose reel that is awesome. Especially for the price. I'll look into the aluminum race jacks!

Of course we/I may get flamed for not buying American but how often do we see that anymore.....Affordable anyway. But I did buy a red wall cabinet for the garage last year made in the USA...it was pretty decent in price and quality.


Oh...........better stop hijacking......

-C -continued hijack-

I bought some new alum jackstands today from Pep Boys... for the UberClam project. I think they are awesome. $50 a pair. A bit pricey, but they look sweet.