Does anybody know if the brake fluid reservoire cap is european or japanese standard? I need this bit of info to order the Motive Pressure Bleeder so I can stop bugging friends to help me manually bleed the brakes. Does anybody know if the brake fluid reservoir cap is European or Japanese standard? I need this bit of info to order the Motive Pressure Bleeder so I can stop bugging friends to help me manually bleed the brakes. If you have access to an air compressor or an air tank, I would go for a Gunson EeziBleed instead. I've used mine for many years on other cars with no problem. I checked the cap last weekend, and sure enough, it fits on the Elise with no problem (I didn't have time to actually do the brake bleeding - hopefully this weekend).

To use it, you connect the proper cap (several are supplied) to the hose, screw the cap onto the bottle and pressurize the system. If things are air tight, then de-pressurize the system, add the brake fluid to the bottle, re-pressurize the system and bleed the brakes (you don't wnat to test the air tighness with fluid in the bleeder - it would spray everywhere). The funky thing about it is that it's been around for many years, and so it's designed to use air pressure from a spare tire (deflate the tire to around 10 PSI). I use it either with my air compressor (a quick connect fitting screwed onto a threaded shrader fitting/tire valve) or I could also use my portable air tank. You are not going to use much volume of air at all.

I can bleed my brakes on other cars in about 3-5 minutes (once the car is in the air). I also have a "universal" cap that came as an accessory - it doesn't do much good. The problem with "universal" caps (last I looked, that's what the Motive appeared to have), is that you have to put straps under the master cylinder/reservoir to pull down the "cap" to seal tightly. Unfortunately, the car that I tried that with had a plastic tank. The plastic tank kept yielding under the load, and came close to cracking - I quit after the white marks formed in the plastic tank.

But like I said, I confirmed that the cap that came with the Eezibleed fits the Elise with no problem - just screws on.

Here's a source (a long time Lotus vendor) of the Gunson Eezibleed (toward the bottom of the page): http://www.rdent.com/pages/tools.html.

Here's another source: http://www.aep.bigstep.com/eezibleed1.htm.

Search the web for other sources, but I recommend Ray at RD Enterprises, or give Jeff at JAE http://www.jaeparts.com a call, they probably sell them too.

Here's what it looks like - the white plastic cap is the one that fits the Elise: Tim,

Cool! i was just getting ready to post asking about reccomended brake bleeders! I used a friends Motive a few weeks ago. It worked great. The cap you want is the European one.

I am not writing this as an endorsement of Motive. Although it worked great, it is really expensive for a garden sprayer and a plastic cap. I was only using it because my home-made bleeder wouldnt fit the reservoir. I searched endlessly for a cap to fit the reservoir but couldnt find one (short of going to the junkyard). My friend offered up the Motive so I used it. I will probably buy the European cap directly from Motive so my bleeder will work. It appears that Motive got their caps custom made as the Motive cap is NOT a modified reservoir cap. I have the 'MP-0100' European Brake Bleeder kit and it fits great. I haven't used it to bleed the brakes on this car yet, but given how the cap fits I'll be surprised if it's not the right one. I searched endlessly for a cap to fit the reservoir but couldn't find one (short of going to the junkyard). The cap that fits the Elise is the standard "Girling" cap that fits my old Elan (and Triumphs, and MGs, and probably most all old British cars). You can get a replacement cap for a couple of bucks from most any British car parts store (I got mine for my Elan from JAE). The cap has a vent hole in the top center - just drill this out and install your fitting (finding the fitting is the hard part), and you have a cap. The proper cap comes with the EeziBleed so I didn't have to go to all that trouble. Now, if I could only find a source for the hose to cap fittings, I wouldn't have to move it to other caps when I need a different one... And if you want to try the lowest-tech approach, the cheapo bleeder that's sold at Pep Boys, etc. works fine. It's just a check valve tubed to a small catch cup, and costs less than $10. Just attach it to the bleed screw on the caliper, open the bleed screw, then pump the brakes slowly and fully to the floor. Slowly let the pedal out fully, then repeat about 8 to 10 times, or until the fluid exiting the caliper is crystal clear. Then move on the remaining calipers. I've been known to use two bleeders in order to do both calipers on one end of the car at the same time, and it works fine.
Make absolutely SURE the brake fluid reservoir NEVER goes dry, or you'll be
looking for a pressure bleeder, etc. to get all the new bubbles out of the system. Oh, and it's best to use a turkey baster or something similar to siphon almost all the old brake fluid out of the reservoir before starting the bleeding.
I used this approach when I changed the fluid in July, and had ZERO problems, and ended up with a solid brake pedal. Much as I like pressure brake bleeders, I only use them as a last resort (see Tim's comments about nearly blowing up a plastic reservoir).
Jim I have the Motive Black Label Power bleeder, purchased here:
http://www.hmsmotorsport.com/store/b...brake-bleeders

I used it a couple weekends ago and was very happy with it compared to the venturi-style bleeders (where low air pressure is applied at the caliper) in terms of ease of use.

The aluminum cap screws onto the reservoir. No straps under the reservior are required as Tim indicates may be the case (perhaps this is for the "standard" Motive bleeder - I don't know, since I don't have that one). I will say that it's good that the aluminum cap has some knurling on the sides, since I had to use that to slightly file down the fiberglass that seems to protrude out over the cap of the brake fluid reservoir. I think this may just be a feature of my car, since it's actually darn near impossible to get the actual cap off the reservoir.

For me, it was a good purchase, and the best of the two systems I've tried. I have the motive brake bleeder system and catch bottle, works great. Make sure you order the European top....I had ordered the wrong one and had to order the European cap separate.

-AJ- Although it worked great, it is really expensive for a garden sprayer and a plastic cap.
You're paying someone else to scavange the parts and reassemble them in a useful manner.

I expect that I'll be getting a Motive kit soon. It'll be useful for both the Elise and TT.

Glad to hear confirmation of which cap to get. It's just a check valve tubed to a small catch cup, and costs less than $10. Just attach it to the bleed screw on the caliper, open the bleed screw, then pump the brakes slowly and fully to the floor. The problem with this system is the same as using a vacuum bleeder - air can get back in past the threads of the bleeder. You may not get all the air out, and you may in fact let extra air into the system.

[quote]Much as I like pressure brake bleeders, I only use them as a last resort (see Tim's comments about nearly blowing up a plastic reservoir)./quote]You misunderstand. The plastic reservoir was almost crushed while trying to clap down a universal cap. There is absolutely no problem at all using a pressure bleeder (with say 10-15 PSI of pressure) and a plastic reservoir.

The aluminum cap screws onto the reservoir. No straps under the reservoir are required as Tim indicates may be the case (perhaps this is for the "standard" Motive bleeder - I don't know, since I don't have that one). It sounds like I was wrong about this one. Apparently the "European cap" should work. Maybe I was thinking of trying to use it on my Ranger. Sorry about that...

I will say that it's good that the aluminum cap has some knurling on the sides, since I had to use that to slightly file down the fiberglass that seems to protrude out over the cap of the brake fluid reservoir. I think this may just be a feature of my car, since it's actually darn near impossible to get the actual cap off the reservoir. I have no problem at all getting my cap on and off, so maybe it's a quirk of your car. In the case of the EeziBleed, the cap fits just like the normal cap - it is essentially the same cap, except that it doesn't have the fluid level switch on the top (so it's even smaller).

Maybe the Motive bleeder could be better for those without an air source. The EeziBleed for those with a compressor or air tank... And if you want to try the lowest-tech approach, the cheapo bleeder that's sold at Pep Boys, etc. works fine. It's just a check valve tubed to a small catch cup, and costs less than $10. Just attach it to the bleed screw on the caliper, open the bleed screw, then pump the brakes slowly and fully to the floor. Slowly let the pedal out fully, then repeat about 8 to 10 times, or until the fluid exiting the caliper is crystal clear. Then move on the remaining calipers. I've been known to use two bleeders in order to do both calipers on one end of the car at the same time, and it works fine.
Make absolutely SURE the brake fluid reservoir NEVER goes dry, or you'll be
looking for a pressure bleeder, etc. to get all the new bubbles out of the system. Oh, and it's best to use a turkey baster or something similar to siphon almost all the old brake fluid out of the reservoir before starting the bleeding.
I used this approach when I changed the fluid in July, and had ZERO problems, and ended up with a solid brake pedal. Much as I like pressure brake bleeders, I only use them as a last resort (see Tim's comments about nearly blowing up a plastic reservoir).
Jim Thanks Jim. This is the approach I have been using thus far with ZERO problems. However, it requires assistance of another competent person It just seems easier to use the pressure bleeder. Additionally, there have been two times that I remember when I was preparing the car for the next day's track event till midnight or so. On BOTH of those track days I had spins or close calls due to exhaustion and/or lack of concentration. Hows that related to a pressure bleeder? Well, if I can have one of the steps in preparing a car for a track day done in 1/5th the time, the whole process will take less time. Naturally, I dont forsee swapping the brake fluid in the Elise as often as I have done it in my SE-R (before every track event and sometimes between the sessions as well). In fact, I did a track day recently in the Elise and the stock brake setup was solid; however, I really took it easy as I was getting used to the car (actually, as I need a little bit more leg clearance for heel-and-toes I was performing them ultra slow...) It sounds like I was wrong about this one. Apparently the "European cap" should work. Maybe I was thinking of trying to use it on my Ranger. Sorry about that... Actually, maybe not. It looks like there's two "trim lines" (if you will) of the Motive Bleeders and the "Black Label" is the better of the two from what I can gather. So, maybe the other one works that way? Dunno, but it could be that we're both correct.

I have no problem at all getting my cap on and off, so maybe it's a quirk of your car. In the case of the EeziBleed, the cap fits just like the normal cap - it is essentially the same cap, except that it doesn't have the fluid level switch on the top (so it's even smaller).
This car quirky? Surely you jest, sir! I figured it was a situation.

The motive fits like the normal cap but because of the rubber diaphragm under the cap, it's a bit taller. That's OK, I should only should have to shave it down once! European cap. 45mm

I went cheap before and bought a $35 vacuum one from MityVac - it sxxks - it's now used to suck the fluid out before I hook up the Motive.

I can bleed my VWs in less than 10 mins without jacking the car up - I like it.
Not the Elise though

BTW, I have heard if you are using too high of a PSI you will force the AIR into the fluid itself. I tried to keep the PSI just barely high enough to flush the fluid. I found it impossible to locate a standard 45mm screw-type, european cap at any of the generic auto parts places nearby, so I picked one up at a junkyard, got some polyethylene tubing, simple fittings, cheapo pressure gauge and hooked it all up to my garden sprayer for less than $10. Incidentally, keep the pressure below 15 psi and you'll have no problem with the resevoir. I use the motive to bleed the brakes and clutch on my spec miata before every race. its easy, and works great. nice clean one person job. it was a good recommendation from those here on ET to me. You're paying someone else to scavange the parts and reassemble them in a useful manner.
Isn't that like stealing? I've got the same setup as Blonde1 -- quite pleased with it. However, I gotta applaude lucksta.... that's really using your kidney!

-Michael
'05 Nightfall Blue Isn't that like stealing?


I can bleed my VWs in less than 10 mins without jacking the car up - I like it.
How do you do this? Reach around the wheel and slide a tube over the bleeder screw? [quote=TimMullen]The problem with this system is the same as using a vacuum bleeder - air can get back in past the threads of the bleeder. You may not get all the air out, and you may in fact let extra air into the system.

Tim,
Well, the secret may be to just loosen the bleed screw about 1/2 to 3/4 turn so that the leakage problem doesn't occur. I know the problem you're describing, but I've made the "check valve" bleeder approach work well for about 15 years and I can always get rock solid brakes with not much effort By the way, I do have a Gunson Eezibleeder, but I've only found it necessary (or better performing) when working on brake systems that are totally empty of fluid (like just after a total restoration). In which case, it's a lot easier to fill the system using pressure. At the end of the day, I think it's just a matter of what you might prefer to use as long as the job gets done right.
Jim