alright my tII hesitates between 2 and 4 K rpms, once it hits boost it jus takes off and runs very nice, but from 2 to 4 it hesitates pretty much throws me forward and backwards in the seat.
i looked at the injectors, replaced all the O rings...today i changed out the ECU and nothing helps... ive messed with the TPS and i have changed it out and i may not have listed everything i have tried but ive tried alot! it seems to run real nice untill she warms up...i dont know what else to do..any ideas?
The secondary injectors kick in at about 3800. Many RX7 owners have experienced the 3800 sag. There has been a lot of discussion on these forums concerning the causes and fixes of this problem. I suggest you run some searches on 3800 rpm hesitation and also read the FAQ's. You will find a lot of information without having to wait for responses to your thread.
I had this problem. Added a ground at the MAP sensor and grounded the ECU to the floorpan. Search for grounds and you will find writeups on it.
also the ACV opens the 5th and 6th ports at 3800,
so if they arnt opening like mine, you can try fixing it or just wire them open..
correct me if im wrong but i heard that befor, it fixed my steling problem.

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bump.............

i just rebiuld my 87 turbo 2 engine and i have no oil pressure. what could cause this?
No oil pressure when it is running or when you are cranking it? I have an electronic oil pressure gauge on my motor. It took several minutes of cranking to build pressure of any kind.
It has to be a gauge problem. I think it is impossible to have NO oil pressure. Unless it has NO oil! HA
i havent started it up yet so, no oil pressure when cranking.
I'm not sure if the TII has that plastic white, and black rubber o-ring in the front cover but are you SURE that's installed?
you sure?
Try removing the spark plugs to increase the cranking speed. Defined Autoworks gave me that tip and it made it easier to build pressure using just the starter motor. Once you have pressure of any kind it will come up very fast when the motor starts.

4 Attachment(s) Hi guys
About 3 months ago a bought an 87' GSL that had a turbo swap and did some trouble shooting, found out the front rotor had no compression so I started disassembling it with the idea that I was gonna port it and rebuild it with rx-8 stationary gears and e-shaft. well I got the thing apart and I need to replace the rotor housing cause there are two 1/32in deep gouges in one (one by the spark plug and the other by the exhaust where the apex seal went out) the other rotor housing just as a smaller gouge by the spark plug. now it was easy to tell that the front rotor wasn't gonna be usable since the apex groove was splayed open but I am questioning using the other rotor here are some pics of the the little gouge by the apex seal groove. tell me what you guys thing any advise would be nice two since this is my first engine rebuild. Thanks
bump
i wouldn't use that rotor if it was my motor that i was putting back together.
If you're desperate, you can file it down on all sides. On the face and where the apex seal sits. I've seen rotors with worse in that same area that were filed down and worked fine.
I will probably just replace both rotors just to be on the safe side. I do have another question though I am thinking about doing a standard bridge port with the RB template this is gonna be a boosted motor, I was told that you need carbon apex seals for a bridge port and also told that carbon seasl arent good fore boosted applications what do you guys suggest, or can you use 2-piece steel apex seals?
I'd use it. Just dress the wound and keep on rotating.
.... or can you use 2-piece steel apex seals? OE 2 piece 2mm apex seals work beautifully. Proper tuning is the name of the game with any apex seal...stick with OE, you can't beat decades of methodical engineering. The rotor in your pics is usable...it might also be an ideal candidate for milling to 3mm.
id mill the rotor for 3mm apex seals
so you can use two piece apex seals on a bridge port? I will also take some pictures of the front rotor to show you guys how bad that was it looks like it had been hit with a sharp object going about 300mph, its a pitty too there was really no wear in the chrome of the housings but they both have some gouges in them I will take pics of those too. thanks for all the input
5 Attachment(s) ok a two part question first here are the pictures of the other rotor and rotor housings, tell me what you think. there is obviously large scratches on by the leading plug hole and the exhaust not really any chrome flaking but there is some wear on the very outer edges of the housings.
2 Attachment(s) ok second part. when I was disassembling the engine there was a steel insert that goes in the exhaust port that fell out and I was wondering what that was all about should it be there??
4 Attachment(s) last but not least I know if you guys are like me you love pictures so here are some more I started porting my rear side iron cause it has a broken bolt hole that is what connects to the bell housing so since this is my first time porting I am not to partial to the side since I might have to replace it anyways. well I took some pictures of my porting and I also have a question about the inner curve of the intake port if you touch that at all will the intake port over lap the oil control rings to much or is there a little bit of lee-way?
2 Attachment(s) ok so I thought about checking the overlap of the oil control ring into the intake port and here is what I see.
Oh yeah, don't touch that part of the port. I ported like 2mm's or so forward there on my first large streetported 6-port and it caked my rotors with oil, lowered my oil pressure somewhat, burned oil somewhat and was just overall undesireable.

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