Im just wondering if there is anyone running A-specs GT3574 on stock ports, and what kind of numbers they are making.
I purchased one through A-spec(which I am still waiting on) and im very eager to know what I should expect..
So Let me see some numbers..
Thanks
i made 388whp@16psi on a ported engine ... but it was on a HOT day and at 6300rpm, it would have made 400whp+
Max
I'm curious about the numbers too...
I made 386 @ 15.5 psi on a gt40r on stock ports. I would imagine at that boost level you could probably expect around the same results if not a little more power. My tune was very conservative.
-Austin
The last car we did on stock ports put down 384@1 bar on our Dynojet with the long runner GT3574 kit and an Ebay stock mount IC. Intake temps were getting MUCH higher than ideal, so that should net even more power with a nicer IC.
The last car we did on stock ports put down 384@1 bar on our Dynojet with the long runner GT3574 kit and an Ebay stock mount IC. Intake temps were getting MUCH higher than ideal, so that should net even more power with a nicer IC. How about with the older pettit coolcharge 2, or is that too small?
How about with the older pettit coolcharge 2, or is that too small? That IC should be much more reasonable. The issue we were running into with the Ebay IC was that it was incredibly inefficient. It uses a cheap core that doesn't work too well.
Was it an XS Power IC? If so was it ducted properly?
It was, and it we made a duct for it after it did so poorly, didn't help too much, but some. Keep in mind ducting is only going to help a bit. The cores have very little fin density that is the issue.
So what you're saying is that you get what you pay for?
If it was the XS power core, I ran the core with a duct and GM AIT's on the inlet and outlet. I was seeing pretty good efficencies during some portions of my runs (77-78 %). Were the temperatures you saw using a fan on the dyno? and was it using the stock ait sensor? It seems like on a dyno even with a fan your cooling will not be as good as on the road, this is where fin density could be a problem (low speeds).
The last car we did on stock ports put down 384@1 bar on our Dynojet with the long runner GT3574 kit and an Ebay stock mount IC. Intake temps were getting MUCH higher than ideal, so that should net even more power with a nicer IC. Is that hp value corrected? Also, what hotside were they running?

I am hoping to hit over 400whp with a GT3574 (.84 A/R) w/ short runner manifold on a street ported engine. Wish me luck... lol

If not I can always swap to a larger hotside.
1 Attachment(s) You will hit 400whp no problem at all. :)
Fritts, the car performed better once the duct was put on but still not as good as compared with the ASP/M2 cores.
Pic of duct I got stuck making below.
Has anyone put this on a shorty manifold and made it work with the airpump?
It can fit on the shorty, the problem is the CHRA is longer so the overall envelope is bigger. I haven't tried one here so I'm not too sure how tight a fit it would be. It may work just fine.
Sean,
Do you by chance have that dyno graph of the 384 run?

i have a stock s4 NA. ill be replacing the flywheel, closing down the final drive, and getting the racing beat true duals. just some simple upgrades to make it more fun. now, if i can properly tune the a/f ratio such as this guy did, , do you think it will be worth the money for the RTEK? im assuming with the full rb exhaust it'll be better than the headers alone. or is that that level of tuning won't benefit too much from finer fuel mapping?
after heading to the RTEK site, i've learned they don't have a ready-made s4 NA wideband tuner. i guess i should generalize my question then. is any wideband tuner available that is made to tune NA s4's and will that system benefit my car noticeably?
What exactly is a "wideband tuner"?
We have the Rtek7 Stage 2 for S4NA.
http://www.digitaltuning.com/?pid=rt...age=2&ecu=S4NA
This allows you to adjust fuel (as well as a bunch of other stuff).
It's highly recommended you have a wideband so you can collect the AFR information you need to properly make adjustments on the Rtek. I'm not aware of any engine management system that comes with a wideband included.
well i guess wideband tuner is a tuning device that relies on a wideband sensor?
i have an 86. i guess im screwed then, right?
i think you're talking about a wideband controller (not tuner)...that connects to a wideband sensor and gathers afr data that is then output to some sort of device for viewing (usually a gauge of some sort). You then need a management system (such as the Rtek 2.0) to "tune" the car. It is what lets you change the fuel/timing maps...the wideband just provides data for you to work off of.
Oh, and an 86 is an S4, so the rtek should work for your car I would imagine.
i think you're talking about a wideband controller (not tuner)...that connects to a wideband sensor and gathers afr data that is then output to some sort of device for viewing (usually a gauge of some sort). You then need a management system (such as the Rtek 2.0) to "tune" the car. It is what lets you change the fuel/timing maps...the wideband just provides data for you to work off of.
Oh, and an 86 is an S4, so the rtek should work for your car I would imagine. Yeah, what he said. :)

*Newb question*.I was talking to some people friday night, and they told me as I was about to fill up gas that I should put in higher octane gas. They claimed it would reduce the chances of a small explosion in the rotary chamber that would spin the rotaries the other way causing me to blow my engine. Just wanted to know if this is true or not. thanks.
You drive an FD? Then yes, without question run the highest octane you can get. The rotors won't actually spin the other way, but detonation can very easily destroy a turbo rotary if it's out of tune.
Your car does need a certain octane of fuel to burn properly through it's combustion cycle. If the octane is too low, and the compression of the engine too high, then the fuel will explode prematurely, resulting what is commonly known as engine knocking, or pinging. This can typically be heard at partial throttle when the car is under load, like when it's going up a hill. I run nothing lower than 93,maybe 92 if I have no choice.
Ok, the previous owner put in a pettit ECU I'm not sure when it was tuned if it ever was.

i have no trailing spark.... dont know why either.... the coils are getting power, but the microtech is not grounding them to fire... i believe that the wire is intact and connected, but i havent COMPLETELY retraced it to the ecu yet. is there anything in the program itself that would cause this?
Is it getting no trailing spark while it's running?
If you are using the stock tach, is it reading rpm incorrectly?
If you answered yes to both questions, go into the handcontroller or laptop and scroll to the screen for ignition trigger. It should be maz+.
is there spark when the car isnt running??? haha. no spark when running, but there is 12v power to the coils..
the rpms are off by maybe 200RPM
If you answered yes to both questions, go into the handcontroller or laptop and scroll to the screen for ignition trigger. It should be maz+.
__________________
Do what this man said and see what happens.
Is this a fresh install or not?
not a fresh install on coils. engine, yes though.
having the same problem you guys but i cant figure out how to find the maz+ or ignition trigger. my car is breaking up the ignition at about 3 to 3500 rpm and its pissing me off lol
3-3500 stumble is mostly likey a different problem, and i still havent sorted this out.. and i never did see any maz+

I own a 93 R1 and this is what i have sitting in my living room, and its going to all get installed when i pick up my built motor from KDR later next week... Just want your opinions, HP outlook, or anything else you want to add.
Custom Greddy T88-34D ball bearing turbo
Greddy 3row R-Spec FMIC
Haltec E6K
SFP Manifold
HKS 40mm Wastegate
Aeromotive A1000 Fuel Pump with my Walbro (-10AN lines)
Fuel Sump Tank
Aeromotive FPR
Injectors: two 850cc, two 1300cc, two 650cc
Koyo Radiator
Greddy Profec-B
Greddy Throttlebody Elbow
Custom 3 1/2in downpipe and 3 1/2in exhaust
Borla 3 1/2in(inlet and outlet) XR-1 muffler
j/w man but how much u spend on all this?? (was thinking of doing something like this but im just starting to look into it)
greddy t88 doesn't come in bb
Id get a bigger wastegate if your looking to run high boost
why??? the more boost you run the smaller the gate you need,
im running a 42mm gate on my car and have no problems at all,
I would get upgraded plugs, spark plug wires, and an ignition amplifier so you don't misfire at higher boost
10 bux says your sfp manifold doesnt fit. they suck ass.
Originally posted by fdracer
greddy t88 doesn't come in bb Werd, I'd like a little explanation on the turbo as well.
1) Im around 10k with motor and everything, but im doin all the labor myself
2) I have all the plugs and plug wires of course, and with the haltec the stock coils should be fine... but im not positive need to do more research (opinions welcome)
3) The T-88 is originally off a unamed pro drag civic (hint: Miles). The turbo isn't avaliable to the public it's a greddy sponsership turbo. I got it for about $1200 and had it rebuilt and balanced by a local disel shop. The bearings took forever to get.
Keep the opinions coming though....
Originally posted by allrotor93
10 bux says your sfp manifold doesnt fit. they suck ass. they are also too big internally, and will yield slow spool times due to low velocity.
Yes. they suck ass.
I bet that high internal volume means lots of top end flow. The most important thing about your engine/turbo combo is your engine. What exactly is "built"? Is it race clearanced? Are you running the 8.5:1 comp pistons? Is your engine BRIDGEPORTED because you'll be needing to rev to at least 9k to make use of this turbo and run 22+ psi to really be in the compressors efficiency range (CFM wise).
More info! :)
wait a min... did i hear the word piston in relation to a 93 R1 FD? BEGONE HERETIC!
Couple things. Your wrong about the wastegate and more boost. Don't know where you got that info. Your going to need atleast a 50mm wastegate if you plan on running more than one bar of boost. And if you don't, you should sell the turbo because its meant for alot more than one bar and under.
As far as ignition goes. Up to 20psi on a Haltech and stock coils is fine. I've run up to 28lbs with stock coils and no DLI. Not saying a DLI wouldn't help though.
whoops i meant the rotors. The ones from TII FCs. Why would you need a bigger wastegate to run more boost? More is asked of a wastegate to be able to maintain low boost pressure on a high revving engine because more exhaust gas has to flow through it. Is there something youre not telling us ernieT?
If you have a small wastegate and a larger turbo you can overboost big time. Seen it happen on the dyno with Demetrios. You'll need a larger wastegate to compensate for more airflow. Your thinking is backwards on the subject. Bigger turbo=bigger wastegate.
And I'll ask Miles when I see him at MIR for the Battle of the Imports race, about this BB turbo because if they don't offer it to the public they arn't going to make a one off. They would only short change themselves.
Originally posted by ErnieT
If you have a small wastegate and a larger turbo you can overboost big time. Seen it happen on the dyno with Demetrios. You'll need a larger wastegate to compensate for more airflow. Your thinking is backwards on the subject. Bigger turbo=bigger wastegate.
And I'll ask Miles when I see him at MIR for the Battle of the Imports race, about this BB turbo because if they don't offer it to the public they arn't going to make a one off. They would only short change themselves. Only if your turbine housing/wheel combo is sized this way. IE: small for the flow range offered by the compressor side.
Which on most turbos, is the case !
If on the other hand it's balanced to the top end then 45mm gate is more than enough ;)
Ask Miles about the turbo he sold it to my friend Dominic about a year ago for his drag GSX and he bolted it on for a few weeks and then took it off. I doubt highly that there is only one turbo like this one. I imagine that most greddy sponsored cars have this option in the T-88 or T-78 and greddy would do it for the increased flow rates and when thier car makes massive power they say its the same turbo that they sell. Which would make sense right?
Also Dave at KD has two motors of mine. One that was is the REW version with TII FC rotors and rotor housings and a stock 94. The both had busted seals I told Dave to build the one motor out of both of them so im not sure if he used the rotors out of the TII motor or not. But it's your basic build: oil and coolant porting along with a large street port and 3mm seals other then that i havent talked to him to see what other little things he might have done to the motor. I just told him my setup and said built it.
I think you will have to be running methanol or water injection or C16 to take advantage of the T88.
I don't think so i've read up on many setups and it seems with most T-88 setups you can accomplish full boost before 4,500rpm (depending on the amount of boost of course) if it's tuned correctly. The only way to find out is the process of trial and error unfortunatly. We'll see how the setup works and if it doesnt have everything i need for anyother setup so ill just sell the turbo and buy a different one.
Running methanol or water injection has nothing to do with boost threshold. I was saying that if you want to be in the efficiency range of the compressor wheel for the T88, you will need to run high boost (hence the methanol or water injection) or rev very high (bridgeport!)
:)
woah, what is the compressor efficiency range of a t78? Duh the same as a t88.
turbine / compressor
t78 = tdo7 / tdo8
t88 = tdo8 / tdo8
Think before you speak! especially when you don't have a clue what you are talking about!
You beat me too it....
:o: Its not like I'm ignorant about turbos in general. So I assumed that the T88 had a larger compressor AND turbine than the T78. It doesnt mean I dont have a clue what I'm talking about.
Come on we're all learning here. :grouphug:
I wasnt making inflammatory comments so perhaps i couldve been shown a bit more leniency?
:)