Hey guys,
I was wondering what your timing values were at >15psi with a 60-1 (or related) turbo. I've got a pretty 'standard' setup (E6K, stock ports, .96A/R TO4B 60-1, 3" exhaust, etc.), and am trying to tune the car a bit better. Right now my timing values are...
PSI *BTDC
15 11
18 9
19 8
21 6
25 0-->
Timing split:
PSI *BTDC
15 13
18 16
19 19
21 20-->
The car has stock plugs and ignition at the moment, would I benefit by going to 9's all around? Would an ignition amp help at all?
AFR is about 11:1 from 12psi on up (or will be... 18psi is way too rich at the moment, runs less power than 15psi :))
Unfortunately this is on CA pump gas (91 octane), but my intake temps are always below 120*F, and usually below 100*F. I've done a few calculations, and my guess is 335rwhp at 15.5psi of boost, which seems a bit low for this setup. Is it safe to lean things out to ~11.5:1 AFR? Can I bump the timing up a few degrees? I was also wondering if it was possible to verify that the timing marks on the crank pulley were dead on. Is there any way to check this?
Many people seem to pull a decent bit more power than I am on the same turbo / motor setup. Jason Kennedy (from www.teamfc3s.org) just laid down 380rwhp on the same turbo@14psi, stock port S5 13BT. Where'd those 50HP come from? :)
Any suggestions / comments would be greatly appreciated! There are a few guys running ~20psi on pump gas, how far does timing have to be retarded to make this reasonably safe?
Thanks!
-Manolis
What is your timing at peak torque? Where does the timing you have listed take place rpm wise?
unless i am reading something wrong... why such a large split on the trailing?
Your split is to high. Lower it to around 10 and you will pickup some HP.
You could also advance the timing a few degrees, those are conservative numbers.
I wouldn't take any fuel out right now, if you're going to play with timing. Also, don't play with the timing until you have an ignition amp(s). Better safe.
You should be on 9's now. After the amp you might need to goto 10's or use a copper washer on the 9's if you end up burning through them quickly. Plugs are a 'wear' part that should be checked/changed regularly. Start with fresh plugs and wires when you start dinking around with timing.
Any split larger than 12 is probably not neccessary. You're leaving more HP out by the conservative leading than just pushing the split down close to it.
Tony
Originally posted by Jason
Your split is to high. Lower it to around 10 and you will pickup some HP.
You could also advance the timing a few degrees, those are conservative numbers. I agree, some of the most hp is made when the split is zero but few are doing that....
Anthony
Originally posted by AnthonyNYC
I agree, some of the most hp is made when the split is zero but few are doing that....
Anthony I wouldn't run 0 spilt on a PFC or Haltech, that's for sure. Not unless I am running multiple ignition amps and can avoid negative split at all costs. I think those "few" have a fair amount invested in thier ignition! I bet the power payoff is pretty good! ;)
Marshall: Those values are for all rpm ranges above ~3k
Sorry about the confusing split timing values -- "*BTDC" should read "Split", here's what it should read:
15psi 13*split
18psi 16* split
20psi 21* split
Jason: lower it to 10* where? Should I drop the split by 3* across the boost curve)?
Badog: What does the ignition amp do for safety? I assume you mean putting something like an MSD 6A on the leadings? Thanks for the tip on the 9's, I'll get them in there ASAP.
Thanks for the info guys!
Seems most people have good luck with just running the stock FC coils, talk to AJC-13B. He ran and may still be running stock coils on his big HP 13b.
Oh yeah, did you get that disk out in the mail?
-Cam
Originally posted by Manolis_D
Marshall: Those values are for all rpm ranges above ~3k
Sorry about the confusing split timing values -- "*BTDC" should read "Split", here's what it should read:
15psi 13*split
18psi 16* split
20psi 21* split
Jason: lower it to 10* where? Should I drop the split by 3* across the boost curve)?
Badog: What does the ignition amp do for safety? I assume you mean putting something like an MSD 6A on the leadings? Thanks for the tip on the 9's, I'll get them in there ASAP.
Thanks for the info guys! I don't think there should be more than 12-14 split in any part of the map. We are talking Leading - Trailing for split, right? 16-21 split is TOO HUGE.
I wouldn't run less than 12 split without an amp. That includes a margin error for the ECU control of the ignition.
Remember, use the PLATINUM NGKs, and keep an eye on them.

Tony
Mailing the disk in the morning! (forgot it today.. doh!)
Badog: I'll try reducing the split to 10* at 15psi, moving on up to 15* at 20psi and up. I'll also add 1* of timing to the main map (bumping leading timing to 12*BTDC at 15psi I still don't understand how running an ignition amp helps with accuracy / makes anything safer, perhaps you could explain it a bit more? As far as plugs go, what is the advantage to using the platinum NGK's (instead of standard BUR9EQ's all around)? Is it just life?
Thanks!!!
-Manolis
Why do the aussie guys seem to like more conservative timing? Anybody notice that?
manolis_d: thry reading through this thread.
Originally posted by Badog
Remember, use the PLATINUM NGKs, and keep an eye on them.

Tony Tony, why do you push the Platinum plugs? Everything I've heard & read is to the contrary, & the plats should only be used with boost levels of 12PSI & lower.
The B10EGV that many folk here use (including myself) are non-platinum. I've even heard the piston crowd say not to run plats with forced induction.
I don't think half the people here check their plugs more than once a year and probably need hot plugs. I could eat up a set of 9's quicker than that if they weren't platinum. Other than that, I am ignorant about it.
Es, where is the best price for B10EGV? Be glad to try them and spark some enlightenment :)
Originally posted by rxrotary2_7
manolis_d: thry reading through this thread. That IS a good thread. Good link.
I ordered 2 sets at $5.99 each from monarchproducts.com, but I think they can be found at motorcycle shops.
They do require a modified spark plug socket since the hex head sits all the way against the rotor housing.
Originally posted by Marshall
Why do the aussie guys seem to like more conservative timing? Anybody notice that? In what way?
Do you consider 13* advance at 15psi conservative for 91 Octane?
I always thought that was a good compromise...
In the upper revs, yes. At peak torque however, I would consider it a little dangerous.
As of late I've been using the B-10EIX NGK plugs. Basicaly they are the Iridium versions of the 10 EGV's.
They are much supperior to the regular plugs in both performance and durability.
crispeed
Originally posted by Manolis_D
Mailing the disk in the morning! (forgot it today.. doh!)
-Manolis Thanks again
-Cam
Chris,
What gap do you recommend for 25psi or less???
Nice to see you're still around.....
thanks
I just talked to Suganuma online for a bit. He's running pretty much the same turbo (T61) with a streetport. He said he can make full boost almost 1500rpm earlier than me (I can't get full boost until ~5400 rpm... doh). The car also only makes 3.5-4psi of boost at 3000rpm (floored, 5th gear, holding rpm). Could this be caused by just timing, or is there something bigger awry here?
Thanks guys... This is harder than it looks, and it's the first time I've messed around with something like this (I'm only 18 ... :sad: lol)
-Manolis
Originally posted by Manolis_D
I just talked to Suganuma online for a bit. He's running pretty much the same turbo (T61) with a streetport. He said he can make full boost almost 1500rpm earlier than me (I can't get full boost until ~5400 rpm... doh). The car also only makes 3.5-4psi of boost at 3000rpm (floored, 5th gear, holding rpm). Could this be caused by just timing, or is there something bigger awry here?
Thanks guys... This is harder than it looks, and it's the first time I've messed around with something like this (I'm only 18 ... :sad: lol)
-Manolis You're doing good, Manolis. :) Just be very careful when working with this stuff because just a few extra 'clicks' of the ignition bars and KABOOM -> your 13B will be a door stop.
On the boost stuff, I recommend using a standalone, electronic boost controller like a GReddy PROfec B. Configured for both wastegate vacuum/pressure feeds, it should help wonders with getting into boost earlier.
B

Alright, I'm going to post as much info as I can think of here having to do with the megasquirt on a rotary engine, each question in a post. Before asking a question in the megasquirt section, please check this thread to see if your question has already been answered.
First question, and the one that seems to be the most popular:
1) There are so many different options for megasquirt, what do I need?
Options:
There are currently 2 options available for the megasquirt board:
V2.2:

v3:

The v3 board's advantages over the 2.2 board can be found here:
http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/pcb.htm
You can use either version of the board to run a rotary. I recommend the v3 board if you have the money, but if not, you can get the 2.2 board, and it'll work just fine.
The next thing you need in each case is the ciruitry to handle conditioning the signal from the CAS. (2nd gen).
For the V2.2 board, you'll need a dual lm1815 circuit. For this, I recommend error*'s board, which also includes circuitry for several of the other features that msns-extra supports, such as EGT logging, table switching, water injection, launch control, nitrous control, boost control, and extra outputs (good for actuating VDI, aux ports, etc...)
For the V3 board, you actually already have a single vr sensor conditioner, so you have 2 choices: cut two opposing teeth out of the CAS, and use only the single built-in vr sensor conditioner, or build a second vr sensor conditioner (lm1815 works)... you can do that in the v3 board's proto area, or you can just get error*'s daughterboard, and only build/use one of the lm1815 circuits on there.
For both boards, you will need to install 1 4.7K pull-up resistor from the negative lead of each of the LED's to a +5v source (Thanks to renns for the picture):

If you plan on using the stock air temperature sensor, you'll also need to replace the bias resistor for air temperature with a resistor between 30k and 50k. On each board version, you'll replace R4.
If you plan on controlling your BAC valve on a v2.2 board, you'll want to get a ztx688 or ztx689 transistor, and replace Q5 with it. Also, you'll want to get a 1/2 watt 510 ohm resistor, and replace R16 with it.
I don't think anyone has done any testing on a v3 board to make it control a BAC valve, but I believe you'd want to change out Q4 with the ztx688 or ztx689, and change out R19 with a 1/2 watt 510 ohm resistor.
There are also 2 options for the megasquirt chip. There's the v1 chip, which right now is the only option if you want to control the stock igntion system on a 2nd gen or 3rd gen RX7.
The megasquirt 2 daughterboard is available now too, but there is no wheel decoder or rotary ignition output code for that yet (I'm actually working on re-writing an earlier version of that code that I wrote a while ago.)
Finally, you'll need to wire the megasquirt up to your car. I'll post info on that in a later post.
Later posts will include:
1) wiring suggestions
2) software setup options, such as how to configure the wheel decoder, how to upload new firmware, how to configure the megasquirt's other settings for the rotary engine, how to set up the megasquirt software for the stock air temperature sensor.
3) any other questions I get more than a few times.
EDIT:
I forgot to mention, I'll also post on how to connect the dual lm1815 circuit (or the single lm1815 for v3 users) to the megasquirt board/chip.
Ken
OK, next item in the FAQ:
how to wire the dual lm1815 vr sensor conditioner to the megasquirt, and the rest of what to do to get signals to the ignitors.
For the dual lm1815 circuit, I have no pictures or diagrams of how to wire it, aside from the picture that was posted earlier in another thread of the dual lm1815 circuit. This is the circuit that comes on error*'s daughtercard (thanks to renns and Rex4Life for the diagram):

KEEP IN MIND that the 56K resistor above should be replaced with a 39K resistor, and the .001 capacitor should be exchanged for a .01 capacitor for the rx7. Also keep in mind that the left part of the circuit isn't needed at all for a v3 board, as the v3 board has a built-in VR signal conditioner that you can use instead.
(these instructions are for a v2.2 board)
Basically, VR1 should be wired to the Ne+ wire on the CAS (24 tooth VR sensor positive lead). That VR sensor's ground should be grounded to the lm1815 board you use). VR2 should be wired to the G+ wire leaving the CAS (2 tooth VR sensor positive lead). It's ground should also run to the lm1815 board.
OUT1 should be wired to pin 6 of U4 on the megasquirt board. U4 is a six pin chip... also known as the opto-isolator. OUT2 should be wired through a 1k resistor to pin 11 on the CPU.
(these are for the v3 board)
On the v3 board, things are a bit different. You'll want to create the right side of the above schematic in the proto area, or use just the top part of the dual lm1815 circuit on error*'s msns-extra board. This circuit will be used for the G+/G- signal. For the 24 tooth circuit, you can use the built-in vr sensor conditioner. For that, just wire Ne+ to pin 24 on the DB37 connector, and wire Ne- to pin 7.
For both the v3 and v2.2 board, you'll want to put the 4.7Kohm resistors as detailed in my last post, and then you'll want to wire the negative lead of led 17 (the one closest to the serial port) to your leading ignitor's IGt wire (IGt-L). The negative lead of led 18 goes to the coil select wire on your trailing ignitor (IGs-T). Finally, the negative lead of led 19 will need to be wired to the IGt wire on the trailing ignitor (IGt-T).
That's it! As far as I can remember, those are all the hardware mods necessary to run the stock 2nd gen ignition.
Quick update. Thanks to rex4life for these diagrams:
The diagrams have been updated as necessary:
As "The Griffin" suggested, I'm posting this here.
From my testing, I have found that it is necessary to leave the LED's in to get the stock 2nd gen ignitors to work properly.
I think it's just because the LED's pull the current away from the ignitors completely when it's time to fire the coils, where leaving the led's out, the transistor can't pull all the current away from the ignitors, causing them not to fire the coils.
This is just my speculation as far as the reason why the LED's need to be in there go, but according to my testing, all of my megasquirts failed to fire the coils when the LED's were out, and all fired the coils just fine with the LED's in.
For those who are having trouble getting the megasquirt to start their car due to no rpms in megatune, usually configuration is the issue, but if the configuration is correct, then the next most likely culprit is electrical system, specifically the grounds. Aaron Cake has a very good article on the RX7 grounds here: http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/grounding.htm
I suggest reading that and following his instructions as they are the best I've seen for grounding problems.
muythaibxr double check this stuff please!
that looks good to me as far as I can tell. thanks!
Can someone please confirm the VR circuit diagram posted by twister?
The circuit at: http://www.msextra.com/manuals/MS_Ex...m#rotaryengine
also appears to be incorrect.
From twister's diagram, should:
- 56k resistor replaced with 39K
- .001uF capacitor be changed to .01uF
- 18K resistors for both VR input lines (Vin-pin3)?
- 1k (MS CPU current spike protection) resistor(s) as specified in the CAS inputs to
Megasquirt diagram for the outputs Out1/Out2 (REF-pin12)?
Thanks
I've found this forum quite helpful for a lot of things. Maybe the lounge doesnt give helpful love-life advice, but for technical stuff I've always had luck. Good job twister, my one comment would be to comment on which of the wheel decoder settings is for the ground-off cas, and which is for the stock cas with LM1815N circuit (and drop the 11-1-5-7 settings, since I think most people are running 1-3-7-9 now, and it seems to be the preferred way.)
OK Thanks.lol Hows the 7 coming along.
She's going, Im using her as a DD now, so Im pretty confident in everything. Just working on tuning right now, and waiting to make the money for new tires and a front-mount.
Nice:icon_tup: You should make a short Video to see how she sounds and take her for a ride. Are you running a stock turbo? I forgot.
its a T04B hybrid, but im just running stock boost for now. I ported the wastegate, but i still get spikes up to 10+ psi if im not careful. Thats why i have the fuel map go up to 15, just in case, and its really rich on top. I plan on a boost controller in the future, after I port the wastegate more and get used to 6-7 psi.
the blue wire that is going to the photo area. is it being bridged to the next hole to the right with solder? and if so, do i have to do that on my board? sorry to ask silly questions im bad with diagrams.
im new megasquirt guys just trying to learn its purpose.
i have stock T2 motor 88"
stock cas
stock fuel pump
stock air sensor
stock o2 sensor
the short blue wires are going from the LED's to the proto area and are bridging two pins holes. On the underside, as shown in the next picture, the tanish, white, and green wires are connected to those same holes. basically what's done there is a connection is being made from one side of the board to the other, and then those wires on the underside of the board are heading away (to connect to the DB37). In contrast, you could run one continuous wire around the board thru one of the pass-thru holes to get to the other side, or solder the wire onto the bottom of the board at that leg of the LED and go from there. All it is is a way of getting the signal from one of the LED legs to the DB37 connector.

After tearing up 3 stock trannys the past 2 years, and patiantly waiting for a solution for the V160 or t56. I decided to go ahead and give it a shot. I'll be using a 2005 GTO T-56. I found a decent deal on one and it arrived today.
Here is few pics of the stock tranny and the GTO w/a 13b RE auto bellhousing and adaptor.
As you can see they are nearly the same length overall and the GTO shifter sits about an 1" farther back than the stocker.
I'll be mounting the transmission this weekend and taking final measurement to adapt my Tilton slave cylinder to the new bellhousing. and order the clutch discs.
I had the engine face of the bellhousing machined down a 1/4" because the t56 input shaft was a little short in this bellhousing. I would still like to find out how deep a FD auto bellhousing is just for comparison.
I'll take more pictures when the tranny is mounted in the car.
I will be installing an aftermarket shifter in the near future. The stock one is a little sloppy for my tast. this is what I am thinking of when it is released.
Ok I have the tranny in place. It is a heavy sucker. The shifter is placed just about perfect in the FD opening.
I Measured for the driveshaft and clutch release assembly. I'll end up getting a different slave cylinder. that the one i have.
It has an adjustable install height for push style clutches. and they have a pre drilled adaptor for the Mcleod tranny adaptor plate that i'm using.
Nice work! Any pictures of it in the tunnel? Do you think it would fit if it was moved 6.5" back? Thanks for sharing.
Nice work! Any pictures of it in the tunnel? Do you think it would fit if it was moved 6.5" back? Thanks for sharing. Why would anyone need to move a engine 6.5" back from stock, are you building some crazy supercar for the street? Oh, nevermind....... :)
Nice work! Any pictures of it in the tunnel? Do you think it would fit if it was moved 6.5" back? Thanks for sharing. I really doubt it. it was a tight fit to start with. I had to remove one of the tooling setup tabs on the drivers side to get it centered. I'll take some pictures of the tunnel when I make the crossmember / mount.
Why would anyone need to move a engine 6.5" back from stock, are you building some crazy supercar for the street? Oh, nevermind....... :) Yeah a super bank account destroyer :scared:
I really doubt it. it was a tight fit to start with. I had to remove one of the tooling setup tabs on the drivers side to get it centered. I'll take some pictures of the tunnel when I make the crossmember / mount. Thanks.
I'm sure a lot of people would appreciate costs and sources for everything except the tranny. I know I would. Great work, and good luck.
Thanks
ryan
.........HHHMMM....i just happen to have a 2004 GTO Transmision in my shop just sitting ........damn you iron .....before this i was just wondering .....now i am actually considering this swap
Why would anyone need to move a engine 6.5" back from stock, are you building some crazy supercar for the street? Oh, nevermind....... :)
That's actually what I'm currently doing now. Moving mine back for better center of gravity and polar moment.
After tearing up 3 stock trannys the past 2 years, and patiantly waiting for a solution for the V160 or t56.
What exactly has been the common problem with all these tranny's?
What exactly has been the common problem with all these tranny's?
Stripped the teeth off of 3rd gear on 2, and broke the mainshaft on 1. All 3 time were done w/o power shifting just rolling on the throttle to spool the turbo at 17-18 psi.
I built the tranny crossmember / mount today. It is a tight fit with the 4" exhaust. I'll post pictures of the underside when I get my cammera back on tuesday.
I really don't see it possible to move the tranny back 6.5". The girth is alot bigger then the FD's.
OK it is all installed minus the driveshaft and torque arm that will be here next week.
Cost soo far
Tranny - 1450
Adapter plate - 230
Tilton Slave - 279
Slave adaptor- 99
Clutch disks - 225
Driveshaft - 265
Torque Arm - 295
Shifter knob - 30
Dakota Digital Box 80
VSS & backup connectors from ebay - 22
Energy suspention mount - 25
Like I said before the tilton Slave setup is adjustable and could be used for any "Push" style clutch, not just tilton.
Here are some pics
Slave Cylinder with feed line and bleeder line
Tilton twin disk clutch
Tranny installed with exhaust connected.
All in all not too bad. I cant wait to drive it and turn up the boost.
More info on the tilton release bearing system.
http://www.tiltonracing.com/content.php?page=hydraulic
It used the GM T-5 adapter for mounting.
Tilton's instructions
http://www.tiltonracing.com/ins/98-1110.pdf
Looks great. Can you get me a picture from bottom so I can see how much space is on the sides of the case near the mid section and tail?
Re. the Tilton, I was thinking about using that with my Carbonetics push-type clutch to gain some more clearance on the side of the case, but I don't have much confidence in the stock gearbox, so I decided to table it. Very nice looking piece though. Where did you get the flywheel made?
Looks great. Can you get me a picture from bottom so I can see how much space is on the sides of the case near the mid section and tail?
Re. the Tilton, I was thinking about using that with my Carbonetics push-type clutch to gain some more clearance on the side of the case, but I don't have much confidence in the stock gearbox, so I decided to table it. Very nice looking piece though. Where did you get the flywheel made?
Unorthodox made the flywheel. If I remember correctly Mazdacomp sells one that fits a tilton / quartermaster.
Any updates on this? I know I am REALLY interested in your results.
Thanks
ryan
Is that transmission brace strong enough? Nice job so far
Is that transmission brace strong enough? Nice job so far
The loop under the exaust I used 8" schedule 60 steel pipe. It is .40" thick and strong. plus added an extra peice on either side with the curve back to back. you can kinda see it in the pics. And the pictures don't do any justice anyways.
update:
The past month has been busy. I spent a week in Canada fishing, another in Wyoming gatting ready to start a new project. and then Last week a hailstorm that tore up my roof and siding on my house.
The torque arm is in, I'm just waiting for the driveshaft which should be here anytime. I hope it will be here before the weekend, because I'm going out of town again next week.
Very cool indeed. Where did you get that shifter for the T56?
For those interested in installing a T56 into their RX-7's with rotaries that are moved back further you can have the shifter position moved forward 4" by running a Viper tailhousing. That also requires the Viper 30T output shaft (much beefier) vs. the stock 26T output shaft.
Steeda (Mustang stuff) makes a shifter handle called a "Tri-Ax" which puts the shifter ball back about 2-3". I would imagine if you flipped it around you could have the shifter move forward as well.
First drive this morning. Shifts fine at 8250 , so I am happy. I modified the stock GTO shifter by cutting off mist of the handle and welding on a bolt to math the shifter handle threads. It will work for now till a few other options become availible. The throw is shorter than stock but not like a true aftermarket shifter.
Gear ratios are great and seem to match the power band well. Now to make time to tune it for more boost.

Hey guys very interested in doing a 2jz-swap into an FD. I remember a couple of years ago that SP Engineering did the "Supra Seven" but that required a lot of custom work to get fit. There is a website called 2jzswap.com and they have developed mount kits to fit 2jz-gte in s13, s14 240sx. They also claim they have made a kit to fit the 2jz-gte in the FC and FD. I was wondering if anyone has used their mount kits before and besides the engine and tranny what else is needed to complete this project. If you guys have no idea who i am talking about here is the link.
http://2jzswap.com/index.php
My goal is to swap in the 2jz-gte w/getrag 6 speed into the fd without having to cut or swap the subframe. I will be giving 2jzswap.com a call to see what else is needed with their mount kit but if anyone has used it before please chime in here.
did you ever find out anything?
2JZSwaps FD kit is about 3 weeks to a month away from being finished and for sale, from what I heard from the guy who does all of Tech 2's wiring harnesses. and yes 1st post Hi
Why would anyone bother with this swap? Is this going to be a drag car?
It must be a worthless swap.
lol
Just because it's heavier doesn't mean it's the end of the world. Relocating the battery other weight reduction can make it more close to stock.
I think it would be a great idea. If you can get the hood to close. From what I've read the cam gears would come through the hood.
I read that the 2jz-gte is only a 100lbs more heavier than the 13b i swear i read it on a thread in this forum.
S1ignal do you have any idea how the fitment is going to be?
My goal is to swap in the 2jz-gte w/getrag 6 speed into the fd without having to cut or swap the subframe. i hope you like gigantic cowl hoods and horrendous bumpsteer if the rack gets moved, which it almost certainly will.
also, from what I've found so far the 2jz-gte weights 490 pounds WITHOUT turbos or manifolds.
^^Yea thats if i had to modify the subframe and do the install and project the way sp engineering did. However with a mount kit it will be possible to use a normal hood and retain the steering rack. I am still trying to find out from 2jzswap.com exactly how their mount kits work.
I will be picking an FD soon, so i can put in the 2jzgte.
If we can further mind away to get the 3.13 gears on to the FD's rear end along with the V160, then that will be my ultimate swap.
I read that the 2jz-gte is only a 100lbs more heavier than the 13b i swear i read it on a thread in this forum. A 13B-REW = ~430 lbs. and a 2JZ-GTE = 594 lbs., which is a difference of 164 lbs. The Getrag 6-speed is also ~40 lbs. heavier than the OEM 5-speed, so the net gain is about 200 lbs. A considerable amount of the extra engine weight will be in front of the axle centerline also.
If we can further mind away to get the 3.13 gears on to the FD's rear end along with the V160, then that will be my ultimate swap. How about a set of 3.08s in a Ford Cobra 8.8" IRS differential?
I've already made that possible and now there are other people developing variations on the Cobra conversion parts. There's even a part number on The Driveshaft Shop's RX-7 page for the 300M hybrid axles. :)
Iron block is too powerful, but yet, too heavy. Do you want to go in a straight line only? ;)
However with a mount kit it will be possible to use a normal hood and retain the steering rack. i call bullshit. there is no way the steering rack can stay in its exact spot without the hood being severely modified. Several people have claimed this but i have yet to see any real proof. A 20b, which is WAY shorter both in height and length BAREELLY clears and thats with a relocated alternator. maybe when they say they keep the rack, they use the stock rack its just moved four inches forward and 3 inches down.
2 Attachment(s) i call bullshit. there is no way the steering rack can stay in its exact spot without the hood being severely modified. Dry sump? :p:
maybe when they say they keep the rack, they use the stock rack its just moved four inches forward and 3 inches down. That's what SP Engineering did with the "Supra 7" and they still had to modify the hood with a cowl and other exciting bulges.
Apparently the car wandered so badly at the far end of the track that they decided it was too dangerous to drive, so it became "display only". :)
you know they have the same problem with lifted trucks and all you have to do is extend down off the spidle to get the arms back straight......they also do this with mustangs with tublar k members.......i say just mod the pan.....can always make the pan wider in the back were it picks up the oil (like moroso does all the time)...........also has any one seen the cowl hood for the rx7 on juiced(ps2)?....looks like a hood for the c5 vett, i think looks good cause our cars look so much like them any way.......
^you have a link for that hood?
Iron block is too powerful, but yet, too heavy. Do you want to go in a straight line only? ;) I dont think adding 200lbs is going to effect the handling that much to make it just a straight line car. Obviously it wont be as good as a FD with a 13B but with proper suspension setup and corner balancing it should still have some decent handling.
you know they have the same problem with lifted trucks and all you have to do is extend down off the spidle to get the arms back straight... To compensate for minor movement of the steering rack. You can't drop the tie rod ends several inches, because A) it's dangerous, and B) it won't clear the wheel.
i say just mod the pan.....can always make the pan wider in the back were it picks up the oil (like moroso does all the time)....... I'd figure out what's holding down the period key on your keyboard and remove it.
I dont think adding 200lbs is going to effect the handling that much to make it just a straight line car. I don't think you're a qualified chassis tuner, so I guess that makes us even.
I don't think you're a qualified chassis tuner, so I guess that makes us even. Jimlab, your the only reason I come to this forum anymore. Your responses are priceless.
-Destin
To compensate for minor movement of the steering rack. You can't drop the tie rod ends several inches, because A) it's dangerous, and B) it won't clear the wheel.
I'd figure out what's holding down the period key on your keyboard and remove it. ^^^ well thanks for the tip ass
^^^ well thanks for the tip ass You're welcome, shitferbrains. :bigthumb:
You're welcome, shitferbrains. :bigthumb: lol:lol: