2 Attachment(s) I just tore my 12a bridgeport that I bought second hand. Anyways, it seems to me that the eyebrow starts lower than most I've seen. Is this ok and what would be the difference vs an eyebrow that starts higher? Also, I got a racing beat bridge template to compare as seen in the picks. Should I move the eyebrow up to match the racing beat or leave alone? Also, if I move the eyebrow up then my eyebrow would be very long- full length of the streetport. Is this ok and what would it effect? What should I do?
Thanks.
Yea it looks like who ever did the porting didnt take the bridge up far enough... in NA its very common for the bridge to run the full length of the port, for turbo however normally its preferred for the bridge to start 1/4 of the way from the bottom of the port and extend the entire remaining length of the main port.
The bridge not extending to the top of the main port will be hindering its performance as the bridge will close earlier than the main port decreasing flow.
Having the bridge starting 1/4 up the main port decreses over lap, as the bridge open a litle later than the main port. Thus giving a little bit more drivablilty and better fuel economy..there are other potential advantages.
Id just take the bridge up a little bit more, use the template though.. be very wary of the water jacket though....however being an old skool plate u should have heaps of meat before u hit the jacket anyway.. its those newer type plates u gotta worry bout...
2 Attachment(s) Yea it looks like who ever did the porting didnt take the bridge up far enough... in NA its very common for the bridge to run the full length of the port, for turbo however normally its preferred for the bridge to start 1/4 of the way from the bottom of the port and extend the entire remaining length of the main port.
The bridge not extending to the top of the main port will be hindering its performance as the bridge will close earlier than the main port decreasing flow.
Having the bridge starting 1/4 up the main port decreses over lap, as the bridge open a litle later than the main port. Thus giving a little bit more drivablilty and better fuel economy..there are other potential advantages.
Id just take the bridge up a little bit more, use the template though.. be very wary of the water jacket though....however being an old skool plate u should have heaps of meat before u hit the jacket anyway.. its those newer type plates u gotta worry bout...
Thanks, I just opened it up a little and beveled the closing line a little. I also did the exhaust port with the RB race port template.
awesome! How many engines have you built?
awesome! How many engines have you built? Many many piston engines but this will be my first rotary and I am looking forward to it. Most of the process is cleaning, the actual rebuild is pretty easy. I rebuild transmissions too and the rotary to me is more like rebuilding a trans. than an engine. hehe.
That bridgeport will make alot of brap-brap noise. You'll like it. :D
B
Thanks, I just opened it up a little and beveled the closing line a little. I also did the exhaust port with the RB race port template. Just a question... have u had or seen this motor running? i only ask cos it looks as the inner edge of the main port has been ground inwards maybe a bit too much..and looks very very close to the oil control rings path.... wouldnt want u to build it up only to be a smokey motor...
Also are u gunna take the bridge up the full length of the port?
Just a question... have u had or seen this motor running? i only ask cos it looks as the inner edge of the main port has been ground inwards maybe a bit too much..and looks very very close to the oil control rings path.... wouldnt want u to build it up only to be a smokey motor...
Also are u gunna take the bridge up the full length of the port? Yes, this motor was running when I bought it and it did not smoke at all. I snapped a carbon apex seal by running too lean as the motor needed a rebuild and I was looking for an excuse to rebuild it.
As for the B-port eyebrow, that's how it was when I tore the motor down. It ran pretty good this way. If I move it up the full length will it make that much difference? Also, I am worried if I runn full length that the bridge itself will be too weak?
Yes, this motor was running when I bought it and it did not smoke at all. I snapped a carbon apex seal by running too lean as the motor needed a rebuild and I was looking for an excuse to rebuild it.
As for the B-port eyebrow, that's how it was when I tore the motor down. It ran pretty good this way. If I move it up the full length will it make that much difference? Also, I am worried if I runn full length that the bridge itself will be too weak? Good to know bout the no smokey.
It will make a bit more power, maybe slightly noticble..not that much difference, but its a perfection factor for me... i know i'd be always thinking "What if" if i hadnt taken it up further... it wont weaken anything...only thinning out the bridge will make things weaker...

Anyone have pics of the Advan RG-II wheels on an FD, preferably a silver FD? I'm thinking of getting new rims and these are really sweet.
Thanks,
Ken
search for reamemiya fd3s, i think thats his username. he has gold rgIIs on this black fd

My rally inspired FD!
j/k... no drivetrain in it yet..
i see dog foot prints. =P
I see an offroading expedition... In the future.

4 Attachment(s) 15x7 Riken rims with tires for sale asking 800.00. 205/50/15 rear and 195/50/15 frt. In very good condition.
what is the bolt pattern?
Sweet rims!
Hi,are you near Ct.or in the area around? Would like to come see maybe even purchase them.PM me and let me know how to contact you,thanks.
Bolt pattern should be 4X110.It's on a four door rx2 from what I can tell in the pic. unless he upgraded to a gsl-se suspension.
What's the offset on these? They look up there by the way they stick out of the rear quarter.

hello all, i dont post here much if at all, but im after some advice. this is a ems issue, so im posting here and in the megasquirt forum.
i have an s4na high comp. with turbo manifolds and a t04s. i run megasquirt ms2extra with 460/1680cc injectors. i have no vaccum leaks that i know of and here is my issue.
i cant get the idle rpms to drop down. im idling at around 1700-2000 rpms when warmed up. i see a 40-45kpa value when idling. i also have about 17-20*advance around 2000rpms and 45kpa. i tried taking away fuel and adding fuel. i tried moving my spark advance down some too. i do not have any idle control devices at all. any suggestions?
mine did this when i first got it, i just messed w/ my idle sensor a little bit.. and it's fine.. idles right at 750..
It is obvious that your engine is getting too much air at idle as timing and fuel have lesser affect unless they are at the extreames.
do you have thermowax, accelerated warmup system, or a BAC valve?
megasquirt has a fuel warmup enrichment phase, but even after that cycles out. no thermowax, no aws, no bac or idle air device.
i do have blockoffs on acv and emissions stuff. im going to check those tomorrow with some propane passes.
off subject, but this is my first vband turbo setup... and my downpipe/turbine connection smokes a lot. like its cooking something off. its ss vband and downpipe, tig welded. but it smokes after the car gets to operating temp and idles high. figured it was just the ss "breaking in" if you will.
no vacuum leaks?