As you all know I started the favorite gto color thread (which is still growing) and now I want to know if more people like the GTO with the spoiler or without it. I vote for without. I will update frequently. Start posting!!!!!
I vote without...car looks soo much cleaner..way its meant to be..but then again im likin that JHP lip spoiler alot...lol
took mine off and it's staying off, but i do like the new one from JHP that uses the stock holes
Update!!!!
Without - 3
With - 0
if you guys are talking about the lip spoiler from jhp, i like that a lot!!!! I would put that on cause you still get the sleak look as if you dont have a spoiler.
Car looks like more of a sleeper without, but I say with. Its not look it couldn't use the help looking more agressive IMO. JHP lip spoiler is extremely nice!
Update!!!!
Without - 3
With - 1
without
(unless it's the HSV 3 piece...)
if you really want a BMW look from the back..take the spoiler off. Car looks foolish without the spoiler.
Update!!!!
Without - 4
With - 2
Mine went in a dumpster...
Without - 5
With - 2
I had mine off for awhile, doesnt look right with staggered wheels IMO
So +1 for spoiler from me.
The car was never meant to have a spoiler. It's tacked on. It's useless. Toss it.
Without - 6
With - 3
mine is being taken off as we speak.
have i mentioned that enough yet? :D hehe ... i'm excited :D
get it done right though (filled, no plugs). i think it looks meaner without the spoiler.
without-7
with-3
Man I thought more people would like it on!!! wonder what the numbers will look like tomorrow????
Without - 7
With - 3
On, but not the stocker. I personally like the SAP spoiler, and don't care what anyone else thinks about it. I do think that SOME colors look OK without the spoiler, but on the darker colors - meh...
I do think that SOME colors look OK without the spoiler, but on the darker colors - meh... i think the darker colors look great w/o a spoiler. my goat is MBM and i'm doing a spoiler delete. the guy doing it has a PBM and he took the spoiler off of his as well and i think it looks much better.
On a QSM, or SRM, definitely without. I'm mixed on the other colors. I like my spoiler on my PBM.
I am going to have to say it depends on my mood. But mine is off right now and is staying off for a while. So I say I like it on and off (1-1) :)
without, but I do like the HSV 3 piece.
with. looks good both ways but i prefer with.
with no doubt
I'm going with. Sure spoilerless makes it more of a sleeper but for myself and I'm sure many others, I'd like to stand out a bit. My vote is for the SAP or JHP lip. I went with the SAP and am thinking about removing the center post and painting it black along with the trunk panel. But its just a thought.
with out !!!!
Lowering the car (especially the front) helps make the !spoiler mod look best, IMO.

I have your exact same car, so my pics should help your decision. I have the plugs (home depot and BOM touchup paint), so it's a very easy and cheap mod to do. I have put the spoiler back on when I get bored, but it rattles too much with my system. So it remains off :)

BEFORE DROP:



AFTER DROP:

Lowered with spoiler:


I like it both ways, but it's been off for a while now.
The stock spoiler was made by Osama Bin Laden himself, so unless you are going to go with JHP lip or HSV three piece spoiler, LEAVE IT OFF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Just say NO to the boomerang.
Macro

Well, i attempted and succeeding in replaceing my passenger door lock actuator myself. Works great, put everything back together but can't get the door lock back on.
It's a total PITA. I understand how it attaches, just can't make it work. Seems like the rod it attaches too is just alittle too low.
Ideas, anyone do it ?
If not i'll have to take it to the dealer and have them screw with it. Hope they don't charge me much. Replacing the actuator is really a DIY job except for that last detail.
Are you referring to the door lock button that is on the top of the door panel? The button you push down to lock the door? If so, make sure that you pry out the red section. It doesn't come completely out, just sort of angles out. The button then slips on really easily and the red part pushes back in. Also make sure that the rod is actually lined up in the hole. I remember it was easily slid behind the panel. Let me know if it doesn't work and I'll go out and take another look at mine. I don't remeber it being difficult. I wonder if somehow the rod moved when repalcing the actuator?
yeah, the lock at the top of the door you press up/down on. I pryed the red part. Seems the rod is low and doesn't get far enough up into the switch for it to grab on the threaded part.
I am wondering if the rod placement is moved. I'm gonna go back in and see if something on the actuator/lock assembly moved and the rod height has been changed.
Got my replaced last week, warranty work..
as 2GTOs said, it should be pretty easy to do. I can pull mine off and put them back on in about 20 seconds, and that's probably on the high side
well, i couple a couple more things to add.
According to a local dealership the lock switch at the top of the door needs to be replaced when doing this job. If the threads are not fresh and/or damaged they won't grip the metal rod in the door.
THey had one in stock and i picked it up (12bucks). Sure enough i finished the install no problem.
Also noticed the rod was sitting kinda low. I ended up gently bending it to raise the rod. At some point i must have bent it the wrong way. This brought the rod up and fixed the problem.
Overall, with what i know now it's a straight forward DIY job for all those out of warranty coverage. Save yourself some time and get a new switch while getting the actuator.
can you make a little write up for the door lock actuator installation? I hate having other people work on my car but I don't want to go ripping the door off unless I have an idea of what I'm doing.
The door is pretty easy to get off. There's instructions in the stickied thread in the stereo section. It's all screws - no plastic clips (except one on the sail panel.)
I've had both accuators replaced. Both times dealer took less than 1 hour shop time. Guess I've been lucky.
How much was a new actuator? My passenger side is gone and my warranty has run out on time.
I was having issues with the door locks and took it in... dealer was going to replace both sides. But then the locks went back to working.... o well have until July 1st to get them replaced under warranty.
How much was a new actuator? My passenger side is gone and my warranty has run out on time. IIRC, dealer price is around $150, and Gene's price at GMPH is around $110. We should try to get a group buy going... :D
Check the "parting out" threads too.
i had the dealer replace the drivers side actuator twice while my car was under warranty, but of course it went out again about 2 months ago. so i pulled the actuator and lock assembly cut off the "door open, wont lock" saftey tab and put a DEI actuator in both sides. under $25.oo for both doors, and these actuators will last 8+ years.
i had the dealer replace the drivers side actuator twice while my car was under warranty, but of course it went out again about 2 months ago. so i pulled the actuator and lock assembly cut off the "door open, wont lock" saftey tab and put a DEI actuator in both sides. under $25.oo for both doors, and these actuators will last 8+ years. Pics? More detailed instructions, please?
^^^ Ditto ^^^^
For a $25 a side fix, I'll do both. Does it mess up the alarm?
Pics? More detailed instructions, please? +1 and info on parts
standard 2 wire door lock actuator is what i used. but i have an aftermarket alarm, so as far as messing with the factory alarm, i dont use it unless i am remote starting, and i just hit unlock to allow the remote start to work. there are 5 wire door lock actuators available, that would use existing factory wires, but i did not go that route. i simply used the factory wires already running through the doors and wired them to my aftermarket alarm. i believe the factory actuators are a neg. lock, and neg. unlock pulse from the factory. so in theory, you could use the factory triggers, and factory alarm to control a set of aftermarket actuators.
2 wire part number: 524n (what i used in each door)
5 wire part number: 524f (should work w/ factory alarms, as factory is a 5 wire)
OK, so it's an actuator from DEI:
http://www.buy.com/prod/directed-524.../90148152.html
But what was the safety tab you were talking about?
yes, that would be the actuator is used, 2 wire version tho. the tab keeps the door from locking if it is opened. the tab is in the latch assembly itself, if you open the door, and look at the inside of the door jamb, not the car side, but the actual door, there are three star head bolts, those hold the latch in. if you remove those, the latch assembly just comes right out. once out, you will see what i am refering to. i took a few pictures w/ my cell phone when i was doing it, my digital camera batteries were dead. as soon as i figure out how to get the pics on here, i will.
Thanks man.
I ordered a 5-wire. I'll try it out and post up pics and whatnot.
4 Attachment(s) pictures of the latch assembly before cutting the lock saftey tab, and after cutting tab. first pic is the drivers side before i cut the tab. second picture is after cutting. third picture is passenger side before cutting, and fourth picture is after cutting passenger side saftey tab.
The "tab" i am refering to is what keeps the door from locking unless it is closed. once you cut this tab off, the door will lock opened or closed.
Was that the only reason you cut it? It didn't have anything to do with putting in the new actuator?
yes, the only reason i cut it was to allow for locking when opened. But with aftermarket actuators, if you have a few instances of accidentally locking that door when it was opened, you will burn it up. they only have 3lbs of pull. This is also a reasonable explanation for the stock actuators going bad prematurely, and working randomly. the stock actuator has about 1lb of pull, so after 6 or 7 times, my brand new gm actuator started failing. that is why i cut the tabs. but no, it is not neccesary for replacing the actuator.
OK, I got the 5-wire here.
I took out the old lock assembly and saw that it's 6 wires, not 5. So I figured I'd just look at the schematics for the new and old actuators (I have the Helms manual) and see if I can make it work somehow.
I opened up the DEI actuator and looked at the instructions, but there's no schematic. They assume you're using their controller and that you should just match up the colors. So I figured I'd go look around online and find it.
No dice. Nobody anywhere in the history of the internet has ever written down what each of the 5 wires is for, unless they did it in another language. This is the closest I could find:
http://www.lrrforums.com/showthread.php?p=54237
So I guess I'll have to go register on that LR forum and PM the dude to find out how he figured that out, or ask somebody to post a wiring schematic for the LR door lock (which I also searched for and could not find) so I can translate that to the GTO.
what are the color/function of the gto wires. i know what the dei are, but since the car is a 6 wire, i need to know their functions. but, the only two wires on the dei that have only one set function are the blue and the green. they are outputs, lock and unlock. but in no particular order, how they output is determined by what the other 3 wires are hooked up to. and i'm thinking the car has 6 wires at the plug b/c there are two micro relays inside the factory actuator. so i'm guessing the car has (1.)12v constant (2) ground (3) -lock trigger from remote (4)-unlock trigger from remote (5)trigger from key cylinder (6) status or some type of signal wire that feeds ecu telling it the door actually locked. but these are only a guess, post up what the helms states each color and function is, and i'll get you the wiring translated so all you need is to plug and enjoy.
For the driver's side
PU/WH - Dead lock actuator lock control
BU/BK - Driver door lock actuator unlock control
L-GN/YE - Driver door lock switch unlock signal
BN/RD - Door lock control
BK/BU - Ground
BK/YE - Door lock actuator lock control
I honestly don't know what those all mean.
The other issues are that the DEI actualtor can only use one mount hole on the factory lock assembly and the little hole at the top where the tip of the lock lever slides in is too small. How did you get around those? I assume the body of your 2-wire is the same as the 5-wire.
i'll get this wiring firgured out. i am not 100% clear on the description that the helms is giving, b/c there are 3 wires with the same function being stated by that description. but based on what my boss(mecp advanced) and i can tell with out actually testing the car wires is.

dei 524f car
black bk/bu ground
white bn/rd door lock control
brown L-gn/ye switch unlock signal
blue bu/bk actuator unlock control
green bk/ye actuator lock control
as far as mounting goes, yes the two wire is the same body. i did not use the factory actuator bracket. i mounted the aftermarket to the inside door skin just under where the factory used to mount. i then used the rod and clamp that comes with the 524 and just formed it to the factory rod and clamped the two together. i will try to get back to the car and pull the panel and take some pics, and while i'm there i will just grab a 5wire and test it and then report back. my car is in storage b/c its not a d.d so it's hard to find the time to go get it and bring it back to the shop to work on. 70+hrs a week makes it real hard. lol. but the wire translation above was the general thought proccess my boss and i have figured out until i can actually get my hands back on the car. it will be sunday evening before i can report back on the wiring and pictures.
i have a factory pass. side actuator that still works, but i am going to sacrifice it tonight and cut it opened to get a better idea. do you have an aftermarket alarm by chance?

I have a 04 M6 this morning i get in the car to go to work and i push the clutch pedal and it goes right to the floor. i thought hey this happened to me the other day because it was cold out and all i had to do is pump the pedal a few times and it would work. But it did not work this time. so i go to work and get some DOT 4 fluid and i go back home open the resevoir and found no fluid. i filled it up and pumped the pedal and still nothing. I jacked the car up and saw fluid on the ground and i looked up and saw that it came from between the bell housing and the motor. Do i need to bleed the system. if i do how do i do that. i do not see a bleeder anywhere. i see the line going into the bell housing do i need to pull the tranny in order to bleed it. or is the slave inside the tranny shot. please help this is my daily driver and i need the car bad. thanks.
Joe
get an 11mm deep sokket 1/4 drive and right above that hard line there is an access hole for the socket to go into, don't try it with a short one or you could drop it inside the housing. bleed it by pumping the pedal say 5 times and make sure whoever pumps holds that pedal tight to the floor, breake the bleeder screw loose just enough to squirt some out not all, close it and do it again for 10 times making sure that the reservoir stays above the supply hole inside the reservoir. i had a one time drop in fluid many miles ago, very mysterious but it happened, i haven't had it happen again. i got a new clutch/slave,pilotbearing, clutch line set going in soon. good luck!!! and ck. your tranny fluid level too.
hey bud, sounds like you blew the slave which is in the bell housing, but you have to pull the trans because the slave is mounted around the input shaft. You can check and see if the bleeder is tight it is directly above the clutch line and is an 11 mil.If the bleeder is tight IT IS NOT A BLEEDING ISSUE:(
Try to bleed it, but most likely your slave is shot.
thanks i tried to bleed it and nothing is happening to the pedal it feels the same. do i need to bleed it a lot more or is the slave shot
does anyone know how much the slave costs
You have a bad slave cylinder as someone has already mentioned. No if's, ands, or buts about it. Since you are finding a puddle of fluid under the car that is coming between the engine and trans, this is a clear indication that the slave cylinder has failed. It is a common problem.
You can save a couple of bucks if you buy the slave cylinder for an F-body. You only have to transfer over the line adapter. You can pick up a slave cylinder from Thunder racing, or any parts supplier.
On a bad note, your transmission now has to come out to fix your problem. Find a good reputable shop in your area that can remove and replace the transmission for you if you can't do it yourself.
Good luck with the repair... It's not the worst thing in the world.
does it matter which slave cylinder i buy from thunder racing Transman. there are 2 list for the f-bodies. i am not sure which one to get. thanks for your help.
does it matter which slave cylinder i buy from thunder racing Transman. there are 2 list for the f-bodies. i am not sure which one to get. thanks for your help. Here's the page on Thunder racing...
http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...vid=3&pcid=266
It is part number 20-15046288. Cost is $149. You will have to move over the fittings from the GTO. This part will take care of your problem.
thanks i tried to bleed it and nothing is happening to the pedal it feels the same. do i need to bleed it a lot more or is the slave shot don't give up yet, keep bleeding it, if you went close to empty, you better bleed it some more.
yea it was empty. but when i go to bleed it it seems like the fluid is coming out good and fast. so i am not sure if i should keep bleeding it or change the slave cylinder because fluid did come out of the hole between the tranny and the engine.
STOP THE MADNESS!!!
Bleeding is not going to fix a leak. The fluid is coming out of the slave cylinder and no amount of bleeding in the world is going to fix it.
It seems sometimes people have a misconception of what the purpose of bleeding is. You need only bleed a clutch system when a part has been replaced and there is air in the lines. The act of bleeding will remove the air from the lines. Air is a compressable gas whereas the brake fluid is not. Once a system has been bled, air cannot possibly make its way into the system UNLESS there is a break in the system somewhere (such as a leak.)
In your particular case, the SLAVE CYLINDER HAS FAILED. That is why it is leaking. Bleeding will NOT fix this leak. Without fixing the faulty component will continue to bleed your clutch until the next coming of Christ.
STOP THE MADNESS!!!
Without fixing the faulty component will continue to bleed your clutch until the next coming of Christ. :iagree:
guys relax, we are just trying to help the guy. in post #2 i state that i had this happen to me where the reservoir just dropped to the supply hole level, unexplainable but true, don't know where the leak was but dam sure went some place, this was many many miles ago, i refilled the reservoir and for the next few days continued to inspect underneath for any signs of leaks, none found. go figure????????? never had a problem like this again, and i stay on top of my setp up, the stock clutch finally gave out after 60k miles and more than 200 1/4 passes all on the original stuff. i know for a fact that with a completely empty system, it will take many, many times of bleeding before all the air is out, remember the dam master is so god dam puny it must barely push fluid.
don't give up yet, keep bleeding it, if you went close to empty, you better bleed it some more. where do you get your info>chiltons or some diy manuel? if the bleeder is tight the slave is BAD. not tryin to be a reproductive organ, but if there is a problem lets fix it:)
I woke up one morning and found the same exact problem. My slave is shot. I count it as a blessing though, because now I have a good reason to install a LS7 clutch and ripshift. :)
join the club. My cars sitting in the Auto Hobby Shop on jackstands on base here with the transmission laying on the floor below it. New slave comes in tomorrow.
Word of advice, if when it's apart you decide it's a good idea to hook it up and test it w/ the tranny removed........ don't. It'll break again. LOL. Even if a mechanic that works there tells you.
When you do take the tranny out there should be 8 bolts. I missed one, it hides in a bracket with a hose through it. Feel up top on the passengers side for a rubbery/plastic hose and follow forward. It's where it hits the bracket.
Also when you remove it, take the tranny off of the bellhousing. It's a crap ton easier than removing it w/ the bellhousing attatched. When you disconnect your quick disconnect for the hydraulic line (on the drivers side) don't lose the little retaining clip, I heard they are expensive to replace.
Another deal, while you're in there, go ahead and pull your pressure plate off and take a look-see at the clutch to see if it's in good condition (if you have some miles on your car). It's only a few bolts and while your in there you my as well check it out. Make sure you get a clutch alignment tool though if you plan to do this.
There is a good write-up in the Knowledge Base on replacing a clutch, you can use that for instructions on removing the tranny. The first time it took me a crap ton of time to get out with a buddy. I just pulled it yesterday again by myself on jackstands and it only took me 1.5 to 2 hours to remove.
Oh and when you get one, look into this one. It's for an F-Body, but you just use a punch to hit the little retaining clip out of your old one and this one and swap the fittings (the one in the front in the picture). It'll save you some money, plus this one comes with a new throw out bearing.
If you go to Advance Auto they can usually get them in a day, if you order through the site it seems to take longer (3 days); at least in my situation.
Hope this info helps you. Figured I'd just shoot you some info quick becuase I've had mine out twice in the past 2 weeks. Clutch went and then I replaced that, the slave, and put a bleed line on. The bleed line was leaking in the bellhousing so I had to remove the tranny again. I think I'm just going to leave the stock bleed screw in from now on. I didn't realize before I saw it with my own eyes that the screw reaches the outside of the bellhousing, I thought it was in the hole the hardline goes to from reading posts on here.
/end novel

Mock up of a friends turbo kit before he starts building the LSX 427 for it. Enjoy
This is a T-6 kit with a 4" DP, hot coated, 46mm WG, S91 turbo, etc..






That shit looks amazing!!! How much HP are you guys expecting??
:eek2: :eek2:
Good.
Lord.
When u get up to a 106 give me a call ;)
DAMN THATS A BIG ARSE TURBO!! i want the engine though haha
That shit looks amazing!!! How much HP are you guys expecting?? He's shooting for ~1400rwhp.
:hail:
subscribed
what car is ur friend puting this in, the white camaro in the pic........or maybe the Jeep? :)
That thing looks too pretty to do anything with other than look at... LOL! So So bad ass!!!
lol @ thread title
awesome
+1 whats it going in?
S91 Turbo. OFI kit. Not for a GTO please drive through :)
+1 whats it going in? :hail:
subscribed
what car is ur friend puting this in, the white camaro in the pic........or maybe the Jeep? :)
Yep, it's going in his white SS.
An S91 is pimp......:-pimp:
1200+rwhp should be awesome.......
Looks good. We are just getting ready to finish a Camaro with a S88 on it. Definately a tight fit, but should be worth it on the dyno and at the track.
S91 Turbo. OFI kit. Not for a GTO please drive through :) I think you should have taken your own advice and not commented. Some of us people like to see other projects. they dont have to be a gto.
@ what rpm are you expecting the boost to roll in
by the way DAM!!!!!!!!
sick!!
the boost should kit in at like 9 billion rpms lol....that thing will produce so much power it wont matter when the boost kicks in lol.
sick!!
the boost should kit in at like 9 billion rpms lol....that thing will produce so much power it wont matter when the boost kicks in lol. "dum dum daaa, hmm, when is this going to spoOOOHHOLY SHIT!!"
*trouser chili explosion*
"dum dum daaa, hmm, when is this going to spoOOOHHOLY SHIT!!"
*trouser chili explosion* Yeah basically siggied.
OT: That's one hell of a turbo setup, what psi y00 be running?
Amazing... looks like a work of art. Like stated earlier, it's almost too pretty to run! :-)
The S91 is spooling at full boost @ 2500-2800rpm on a 408ci. The more PSI of boost you are running the faster the spool.
as per another guy who is running it.
The more PSI of boost you are running the faster the spool. :huh: I don't want to sound like any one of the "every-ologists" we know so I won't debate this statement.
Spool time is dependent on so many engine, turbo and load criterion. A basic on turbo operation from experts on the subject: LINK
(unfortunately, it is best viewed with IE).
Mods should ban that...porn is not allowed.
:huh: I don't want to sound like any one of the "every-ologists" we know so I won't debate this statement.
Spool time is dependent on so many engine, turbo and load criterion. A basic on turbo operation from experts on the subject: LINK
(unfortunately, it is best viewed with IE). Read what I stated. That info was from a person who has the unit on a 408ci.
BillyGoatGruff- What is the length on that turbo? If you were to set it vertical. I have a 83MM Airearch which is suppose to be the same frame size at this turbo. I get 11inchs on mine. I measured a 88MMGT47 which is a large frame and it measures 12inches in length.
I am going to be doing the fitup on my kit for the GTO with a 88MMGT47 large frame and just run the 83MM aireach unit till the funds come in. :bubbrub
Pure sex...where's the lotion?
Yea ... that thing is tiny, why not go bigger?
LOL