Soon I with be installing the bottle, and I will have LTs, tru duals, CAI, and a gear which doesn't matter but is there anything else that I will need to be safe other than a window switch and wideband???
I think a FPSS is a good investment. Also how big of a shot are you thinking about running? You might need injectors/fuel pump depending on if you are going with a wet or dry kit.
You might need injectors/fuel pump depending on if you are going with a wet or dry kit. Yeah, left that part out... I'll be going with a dry shot, and I'm think 100-150.
Are you going to be using sporaticly or track use? Tires?
Mostly track use, and a little on the street, with Nitto NT555r tires.
I have a dry kit 125 shot, MT, cam, torque converter, drag bags, headers, cold air and open outlets from the headers and the car turns 11.6s-11.8s all night long. I use 100 octane when I run and have not had 1 problem in two years with anything! I am now in the process of raising the shot of nitrious but will have to change the FUEL PUMP.
I have a dry kit 125 shot, MT, cam, torque converter, drag bags, headers, cold air and open outlets from the headers and the car turns 11.6s-11.8s all night long. I use 100 octane when I run and have not had 1 problem in two years with anything! I am now in the process of raising the shot of nitrious but will have to change the FUEL PUMP. and thats in vegas, AKA 2100' above sealevel, plus the crap weather usually means add a few hundred, sometimes thousands more feet to the DA factor. Our track sucks arse.
I ran my PB at Beach Bend here in Kentucky and the day that I ran the DA was -14.....haha.....It was a good day to say the least!
i'm gonna be adding the bottle too. i have intake, lt's, full exhaust.
would like to run 100 shot, wet. i've read that i shouldn't need a tune or any fuel mods to make this work safely. is this true?
Mostly track use, and a little on the street, with Nitto NT555r tires. Until you upgrade the tire (and probably the drivetrain as well) I would only run up to a 100-125 shot. I would say this because of the lack of traction the Nittos will give you. Any more and you may just be roasting the tires each time.
There was no way Nittos would hold the 150 I was running. I went to a set of Hoosiers and it was like night and day until the half shaft, rear, and tranny went out.
A lot of it will depent on how you launch the car. JMO, of course.
See my sig.....I'm running a 125 dry...full exhaust and mild cam. All you really need are some injectors....and SVO 30's can be had on the cheap. Your stock pump is good to about 500 rwhp.....but if you start getting close to 525 it's time to change it (or boost it).
I had the 175 shot installed with the bigger fuel pump, but have not even got on the car yet. I plan to run it on the dyno next week in the shop I got all my mods at. I ran a 125 shot for nearly two years with stock fuel pump and everything else! no problems.
i went conservative with a 75 shot and bolt ons soon to have a moderate cam.
75 is easy on the tires and drivetrain until its upgraded and dropped .4 second off my 1/8th mile time
i'm gonna be adding the bottle too. i have intake, lt's, full exhaust.
would like to run 100 shot, wet. i've read that i shouldn't need a tune or any fuel mods to make this work safely. is this true? With a Wet Shot, you dont need to upgrade the fuel system or need a full tune. Just be suuuper careful not to snap the connection piece off on your stock fuel rail like I did.
Take a look in my writeup. And look at the 2 pics with the stock fuel rail!

Other than that, I had a 150 shot, and to be safe, I pulled the timing by 2 degrees, that showed me a 2.6 hp gain on the dyno...so it isnt really needed with a wet shot, especially with a 100 wet shot.
some might argue with me on this, but lose the FPSS, I talked to Cartek, and they had issues where the rail ran out of fuel, and the FPSS kept shooting juice in on and off at a fast pace, resulting in jerky, and almost dangerous situation.
With a Wet Shot, you dont need to upgrade the fuel system or need a full tune. A blanket statement like this is not entirely true. With a small shot, you can get by without upgrading the fuel system. Also, you can probably get by without a tune with a small shot as long as you didn't get too aggressive on timing and if you use high octane fuel. But, if you want to play it safe, upgrade the fuel and tune it. If you are going to do a 150 shot or bigger, upgrading the fuel system and getting a nitrous tune is pretty much a must do.
With a Wet Shot, you dont need to upgrade the fuel system or need a full tune. Just be suuuper careful not to snap the connection piece off on your stock fuel rail like I did.
Take a look in my writeup. And look at the 2 pics with the stock fuel rail!

Other than that, I had a 150 shot, and to be safe, I pulled the timing by 2 degrees, that showed me a 2.6 hp gain on the dyno...so it isnt really needed with a wet shot, especially with a 100 wet shot.
some might argue with me on this, but lose the FPSS, I talked to Cartek, and they had issues where the rail ran out of fuel, and the FPSS kept shooting juice in on and off at a fast pace, resulting in jerky, and almost dangerous situation. I am just wonderng why you would post something like this Sir ??
I dont think posts should be made that could possibly be detrimental to your vehicle.
First making RWHP on nitrous is the same using a wet or dry kit.
there is going to be X amount of fuel being put into the cylinders wether its from a plate, nozzle or injectors. Wet or dry its going to have the same effect on your fuel system.. Not getting a tune (timing and PE tables at minimum) is just crazy..
Last on the FPSS, I can see what your saying to an extent. Instead of loosing it all together I would set it low say 35psi.
there is no replacement for safety and if its installed correct it will shut down the whole system and not just the fuel side..
i'm not gonna be running more than 100 shot and i've been told and read that for 100 shot i don't need a tune or fuel. nitro dave has told me this personally.
the n2o kit is only going to be temp until i can get the money for the twins...:D
i'm not gonna be running more than 100 shot and i've been told and read that for 100 shot i don't need a tune or fuel. nitro dave has told me this personally.
the n2o kit is only going to be temp until i can get the money for the twins...:D Nitro Dave is the right man to ask, he's done it for quite a while now, and is a great sponsor
I am just wonderng why you would post something like this Sir ??
I dont think posts should be made that could possibly be detrimental to your vehicle.
First making RWHP on nitrous is the same using a wet or dry kit.
there is going to be X amount of fuel being put into the cylinders wether its from a plate, nozzle or injectors. Wet or dry its going to have the same effect on your fuel system.. Not getting a tune (timing and PE tables at minimum) is just crazy..
Last on the FPSS, I can see what your saying to an extent. Instead of loosing it all together I would set it low say 35psi.
there is no replacement for safety and if its installed correct it will shut down the whole system and not just the fuel side.. You see, I was talking with Julio from Cartek, back when i was contemplating on 150 or 175, he said stick with 150, stock fuel rails are fine, be it a wet shot, the injectors do not need an upgrade because its not being taken from the FI's and are not maxed out. As for the tune, no real big tune is needed according to him, be it a wet, no real timing pulling and PE was needed. I had the cars tune checked, and the most he pulled on the timing was 2 degrees. Nothing on the PE was changed. Seeing as 1STV8 said he wont go bigger than 100, NO Injector upgrade OR PE is needed. Needed, meaning its not 100% neccesary.
Lets not start an argument please, it just sorta got to me personally with your quote from above. Obviously id want the best for my car. DOH! so getting professional help was a must.
i'm not gonna be running more than 100 shot and i've been told and read that for 100 shot i don't need a tune or fuel. nitro dave has told me this personally.
the n2o kit is only going to be temp until i can get the money for the twins...:D If your car is stock and the tune has not been touched you should be able to use a 100 shot with out any modifications or computer tunning. However you still need to varify airfuel and it is never a bad ideal to varify that there is no detonation (Knock retard)
Dave
my car isn't stock...i have an intake and full exhaust(headers back)
computer hasn't been touched...since i've had it...
i will be getting a wideband kit for the car and i will also have things checked and tweaked as needed with HPT for knock and afr...
any other suggestions...
Sounds like you have it nailed. Dont forget to change the spark plugs.
Dave
You see, I was talking with Julio from Cartek, back when i was contemplating on 150 or 175, he said stick with 150, stock fuel rails are fine, be it a wet shot, the injectors do not need an upgrade because its not being taken from the FI's and are not maxed out. As for the tune, no real big tune is needed according to him, be it a wet, no real timing pulling and PE was needed. I had the cars tune checked, and the most he pulled on the timing was 2 degrees. Nothing on the PE was changed. Seeing as 1STV8 said he wont go bigger than 100, NO Injector upgrade OR PE is needed. Needed, meaning its not 100% neccesary.
Lets not start an argument please, it just sorta got to me personally with your quote from above. Obviously id want the best for my car. DOH! so getting professional help was a must. Sorry bout that man, I didnt mean any harm at all..
To many people believe everything they read on these board and I personally would rather see people spend a few extra $$ now being safe than to have to be replacing an engine down the road.
what should i set the gap at for the spark plugs?
nitro dave...i'm also going to be picking up one of your guys anodized red bottle brackets...those things look amazing...are they on the site?
did you get the NGK TR6 plugs ??
I would gap them at between .036 - .038
what should i set the gap at for the spark plugs?
nitro dave...i'm also going to be picking up one of your guys anodized red bottle brackets...those things look amazing...are they on the site? Jason Answered on the plugs above. The bottle brackest are not on the site as of yet. Call in for the Christmas Special and save a few dollars.
Dave

Does anybody know how to take off the front seat head
rest. i am trying to put a neoprene seat cover, but cant get
the head rest off. i tried the button on the side but thats only for adjustment.
thanks
JM...
Never mind, i figured it out.
for those who don`t know like i once did.
on the opposite side of the head rest there is
a little hole , stick a paper clip in and "whala"
the head rest comes off, but you have to tilt the seat
back to get it off.
JM...
I'm just gonna bump this to say thanks. I couldn't figure this out.

Whats in your car? Opinions on both, I know the Textralia is a great clutch but its right around a $1k and I don't know if I want to spend that much for a clutch right now. What do you think... spend the money for the Textralia or get the Spec and mod somemore? Whats your opinion. Thanks
With your power, the LS7 would be more than sufficient.
Yes it would but I'm looking for on down the road a few months, after winter I will have 3.91 gear, LTs, CAI, and the bottle, and maybe a cam.
they say LS7 is good for 500 rwhp...
textralia or if you want the same holding power just a few hun cheaper go with the CARTEK...the cartek and tex would do you fine even for the future
1 spec and 3 tex i would go spec
I have the Tex OZ-700sb Z grip and I love it.
First off I'm just giving my opinion. Not trying to bash anyone or start a vendor war, just my .02
My thoughts:
The tex OZ-700 feels amazing. The pedal pressure and feel is as close to stock as your going to get out of an after market clutch. Personally, I think it feels better then stock. The OZ-700 is extremely streetable. 95% of my driving is in town under 50mph and I have no problems what so ever.
Also, Textralia's customer service and support is the best in the business. When I first had my clutch installed I was having some problems. I called the Tex support number (spoke with Jarrod) and he walked me through the problem and made sure everything was working the way its supposed to and that I was happy.
Based on the customer service I received and the quality of product I got, I will never buy another clutch again.
The only Spec clutch I drove was the 2+ and it was nice, but it was very On/Off so to speak. You could tell the clutch was either totally engaged or disengaged, there is no way to really slip the clutch if needed. The Tex on the other hand allows you to slip it a little which I think adds to why it feels so smooth. Don't get me wrong, when you dump the clutch the Tex grabs hard, but it also allows you to slip it a little while driving around in traffic to get a nice smooth engagement.
Anyways... My two cents. Take it for what its worth. Hope it helps.
Tex oz700 z-grip FTW! Great high power capable clutch.
Tex and don't look back
I have the Tex OZ-700sb X grip and I love it.

First off I'm just giving my opinion. Not trying to bash anyone or start a vendor war, just my .02

My thoughts:

The tex OZ-700 feels amazing. The pedal pressure and feel is as close to stock as your going to get out of an after market clutch. Personally, I think it feels better then stock. The OZ-700 is extremely streetable. 95% of my driving is in town under 50mph and I have no problems what so ever.

Also, Textralia's customer service and support is the best in the business. When I first had my clutch installed I was having some problems. I called the Tex support number (spoke with Jarrod) and he walked me through the problem and made sure everything was working the way its supposed to and that I was happy.

Based on the customer service I received and the quality of product I got, I will never buy another clutch again.

The only Spec clutch I drove was the 2+ and it was nice, but it was very On/Off so to speak. You could tell the clutch was either totally engaged or disengaged, there is no way to really slip the clutch if needed. The Tex on the other hand allows you to slip it a little which I think adds to why it feels so smooth. Don't get me wrong, when you dump the clutch the Tex grabs hard, but it also allows you to slip it a little while driving around in traffic to get a nice smooth engagement.

Anyways... My two cents. Take it for what its worth. Hope it helps. X's 2. I had an LS7 that couldn't hold my power, the OZ 700 ( Z grip) eats it like candy.

Tom.
Spec 3 is my choice...
... it holds the power
... it grabs very well at the track, cutting 1.6x and better short times consistantly
... it's good on the street with some chatter when first taking off but is easy to overcome
... it's overall a damn good clutch
I have the OZ700 and love it. IT's a bit grabby (as any hi-po clutch is) at low RPMs, but nothing compared to others I have felt. If I had it to do again, I'd get the same clutch. It's taken 550hp/tq to the tires for ~7K miles now w/out issue.
Maybe s dumb question, but where do you get this 'so-called' Tex clutch :)
Sponsers to your left. I bought mine from another vendor. (non sponser) so I cant say.
Maybe s dumb question, but where do you get this 'so-called' Tex clutch :) You can get it from Carolina Auto Masters (CAM) at the left. Ask for Jeff and tell him I said to call. He's a Textralia dealer. Textralia is the company which makes these clutches in Australia. The two most popular models are the OZ 700 and the twin disk exo skel. Good luck.
Tom.
Thanks for all the input guys...
I heard alot about the tex but have not ever drove with one installed. I do like the spec stage 3, I have had them in f- bodys and mustangs with very little if any problems.
whats the difference between the x grip and z grip?

Im looking for an all motor set up that will push out anything over 500+ hp. I Have an 04 A4. I already have full exhaust which includes Lts, catless, and lm2 catback. What company would make a beefy enough set of heads and a cam and at the same time be most reliable to run that kind of power? I would appreciate any opinions on this subject. I have gone back and forth between cartek, patriot, and afr but just cant seem to find the set up i need. Any preferences? thank you
I don't know too much about the LS1, but I'd think its not too hard. If you want to keep street manners, don't go too big on the cam. Good luck!
Are you talking at the wheels or at the crank??? on the crank you can get there no problem. Some good high compression (11:1ish) that flow nice and a nice cam. fast 90/90 setup and you should be there or over on the crank.
figure about 15% drivetrain loss (20 for an auto maybe?). So 500 at the crank is really about 425ish at the wheels which is not hard by any sense of the word...just takes a little money and the right combo
450whp at the wheels on heads/cam only has been done many times.
SLP has nice packages for this, and i noticed that Trick Flow does too, a heads/intake/cam pkg. for around 500 hp.
Im looking for over 500whp. A buddie of mine just picked up a maggied 05 gto and i wanna be able to take him hands down with all motor. Its just got a maggie with everything else stock. Any Suggestions?
Im looking for over 500whp. A buddie of mine just picked up a maggied 05 gto and i wanna be able to take him hands down with all motor. Its just got a maggie with everything else stock. Any Suggestions? I don't think that 500rwhp has been done all motor on an LS2 stock block, someone correct me if I'm wrong, if you go cammed you will definitely need a larger stall to get the most out of the cam you choose. Good luck and keep us posted. BTW (hope the mods don't get pissed at me) but you might want to try the other large GM forum where almost every LS1 combo seems to have been tried and tested, I'll pm it to you.
It is possible to make 500+ on an LS2 GTO's but on an LS1, you're going to need even more effort and money to reach it.
HELLION Cam
ETP 225's
FAST 90
Kooks LT's
Kooks Custom Turn-Downs
SLP UD Pulley
K&N CAI
P/P TB
PCV Delete
NGK TR6 Plugs
MSD Wires
SLP T-stat 160º
Formato Tune: 513RWHP 457RWTQ
just go to ls1tech.com and search through all the combos. All motor LS1's making that and more have been around since 99
Im looking for an all motor set up that will push out anything over 500+ hp. I Have an 04 A4. I already have full exhaust which includes Lts, catless, and lm2 catback. What company would make a beefy enough set of heads and a cam and at the same time be most reliable to run that kind of power? I would appreciate any opinions on this subject. I have gone back and forth between cartek, patriot, and afr but just cant seem to find the set up i need. Any preferences? thank you Though this is a C5 combination, you could steal his thunder and use the same parts. I can help with that. ;)


You'll also need a top notch tuner in your corner like Mike from New Era and/or Jeremy Formato. That's who Christian used to get to this level.
Ed
Is the Fast 90/90 setup really worth it? Seems like its a little too expensive for what it does. Would the professional products or BBK manifolds be worth it since there half price. I already have Pacesetter LTs, catless mids, lm2 catback, air intake, 85mm throttle body, msd cables, Plugs, and 160* thermostat. Ill be getting an underdrive pulley soon enough. My budget is going to be around 5-6k and thats including the 2k for the new transmission ill be getting. So the rest roughly into motor. Ive heard good things about the Helion cam. Any opinions on HPE s or mega death cam? Im also going to look into ls1tech. thanks for any info in advance.
Coming from someone who runs the Hellion I can tell you without doing some good heads you're not going to see the full benefit of this cam. You could run a smaller cam ie: Street Sweeper and get the same number out of it. Now if you plan to swap heads and bump the compression it becomes a very interesting combo. Mine should be unfolding here in a couple of weeks with my Hellion setup and new heads. If I don't' break 525rwhp I'll be pretty disappointed.
Curious to know what heads your using with the helion because i will also be doing heads with the cam?
Curious to know what heads your using with the helion because i will also be doing heads with the cam? Ed has a particular combo he recommended with the Hellion so that's the route I'm going. ETP 225's with a 58cc chamber and .040 head gaskets. The other Hellion ETP combo car deviated a little from his recommendation so I'm going to follow it and see who comes out on top although I'm doing a few other additional changes along the way that should net some additional ponies.
PM me on how that goes for you. I wont be doing this work till around May so i have some time. I have a few things i want to do to the car so it can actually use the power its going to be making.
why are you so concerned with 500 rwhp ? it seems like thats all anyone cares about anymore.
i would also invest in some 3.91's ... just about the best mod you can do for the money.
also. building a car just to beat your buddy isnt always a good practice. you can only run him a few times, you have to drive this thing every day. after you beat him. he will just do a blower cam, or ported heads , meth whatever and be beating you again.... if it were me id go with a good cam for all around power, some 3.73's and some good heads.
Texas Speed Heads/Cam package with all the bells and whistles = @2200 bucks for stage 2.5 heads, cam, new timing chain/gears (which you should definitely get). that can get you to about 440 at the wheels with the right match and still drive great around town.
add the 3.73s, an underdrive pulley (doesnt do a ton, but its cheap so why not).
so there you are at about 3-3500 and should have a fast and fun car. as far as getting 500 rwhp on an auto...i have my doubts.
as far as beating your buddy... if he's an m6, take it to the track, your auto will really help you out.
Im looking for an all motor set up that will push out anything over 500+ hp. I Have an 04 A4. I already have full exhaust which includes Lts, catless, and lm2 catback. What company would make a beefy enough set of heads and a cam and at the same time be most reliable to run that kind of power? I would appreciate any opinions on this subject. I have gone back and forth between cartek, patriot, and afr but just cant seem to find the set up i need. Any preferences? thank you Dude, stick a Maggie on it and be done with it. You'll get better mileage and the car will drive everyday like a minivan.
Till you put your foot in it.