I am looking to get winter tires for my 06-GTO.
On the car now are the Stock-235/40ZR18 91W.
Any ideas? I live in Chicago.
I live in WI and I use the ws-60, they don't have them in your size but they do have the lm25 in your size. I got my from tirerack
Take a look at the Goodyear Eagle F1 All Seasons.
I have the stock 18" wheels for summer and bought a set of stock 17" wheels for winter, which I put 235/45/17 Dunlop Graspic winter tires on.
Take a look at the Goodyear Eagle F1 All Seasons. I don't think that will cut it for a gto in Chicago.
I have Dunlop Wintersport M3 on stock 17's. They made a big difference vs. the stock all season tires. A second set of rims make the change over nice and easy(hard to carry tires in a GTO).
You could always check out your local Pedders dealer to get winter tires and check over the car at the same time.
The guys at Waukegan Tire will take good care of your GTO.
James B,
Please tell me more about your experience at Waukegan Tire. Did they do your Pedders Install? I live in Lagrange and its pretty far for me and I am reluctant to leave my car up there for 3-4 days for a Street II? Can you also provide ballpark price for what you had done?
Thanks much
Jim
I work in Lagrange at Firestone I will match if not beat tire racks price
I don't think that will cut it for a gto in Chicago. According to Goodyear it has a snow traction rating of 8.
According to Goodyear it has a snow traction rating of 8. If I were Goodyear I would give it a snow traction rating of eleventy billion.
Bridgestone Blizzak WS-50 seem to have a high reputation. It would be easiest to purchase a set of winter wheels.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....e1=yes&place=8
If I were Goodyear I would give it a snow traction rating of eleventy billion. I'll let them know you said to do that!
P.S. I love your one liners they are very informative!
I'll let them know you said to do that!
P.S. I love your one liners they are very informative! Did you see that goodyear doesn't have an ice rating for that tire? What does that tell you?
I'm running these.
http://www.vredestein.com/Banden_Ban...ionID=95769465
So far they have been great. I've been able to launch in rain. The tires cut through water. You feel the jets of water spraying the fender wells as they cut through. Even on small puddles. I'm very happy so far with them. They were a bit pricey. About $920 for a set of 245/40R18's.
Nothing like a W speed rated winter tire lol.
So Should I get 2nd set of rims & tires For the winter or just All seasons? This my first
winter driving the Gto, Two of My buddies said I should just get a cheap Used car, instead.
So Should I get 2nd set of rims & tires For the winter or just All seasons? This my first
winter driving the Gto, Two of My buddies said I should just get a cheap Used car, instead. If you can get a cheap beater, do that. If you don't think you'll want to go out in the cold to wash off all the crap that sticks to the underside of the car, then it's better to store the GTO for the winter. Or you can loan it to somebody down here.
I don't know what you pay to have your tires mounted and balanced up there, but down here it's not that cheap. It would probably be better to get a cheap set of 17x7.5" or 7" wheels and some narrower snow tires for the winter.
Thanks guys! What about All Season tires Instead? My buddy has the 17inch on this gto
And wants swap tires, But I like my rims!
buy a set of factory 17's. They can be had for around $400 used. I bought 2 for $225 shipped, but have seen them shipped for $200.
I just bought a set of Blizzak's, and I'll just swap wheels and tires as the season permits. I'd like to buy an 77-86 silverado, but the wife says we have no room.
Thanks guys! What about All Season tires Instead? My buddy has the 17inch on this gto
And wants swap tires, But I like my rims! Winter tires are great for the winter. Summer tires kick ass the rest of the year. All-seasons do everything but are good at nothing.
Did you see that goodyear doesn't have an ice rating for that tire? What does that tell you? Street tires have Ice rating!?
Bridgestone Blizzak WS-50 seem to have a high reputation. It would be easiest to purchase a set of winter wheels.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....e1=yes&place=8 So Should I get 2nd set of rims & tires For the winter or just All seasons? This my first
winter driving the Gto, Two of My buddies said I should just get a cheap Used car, instead. Blizzaks.period.I use them on a spare set of 17's.With (2) 80 lb. bags of sand in the trunk, I have driven in rain, ice, and snow.If you drive in snow/ice conditions, they are a must.Driving with them and the sand bags, I felt as comfortable with the GTO as I did with any FWD.Well worth the price if you must drive in those conditions.
Street tires have Ice rating!? All the goodyear snow tires do.
So Should I get 2nd set of rims & tires For the winter or just All seasons? This my first
winter driving the Gto, Two of My buddies said I should just get a cheap Used car, instead. A cheap used car is another valuable option; however it is considerably more expensive. With a cheap used car you may have to spend more money on repairs, and upkeep, etc.
But, if you're keeping your GTO for a long time; salt does do damage, and the less exposure to it the better.
Winter tires will be more effective than all seasons in snow. In some cases, that may mean the difference between totaling your car, and never loosing control.
I bought a set of 17" factory wheels and some blizzak w-50's from tire rack, they're on sale right now. I have $600 in the wheels and tires. I'm not too far away from you down in the quad cities and I plan on driving mine all winter, I went wint the 17's because I toasted a set of 18's on my last car with the potholes in the winter.
OK, so you go through all the trouble of finding the right tires. and a set of wheels, 'cuz you don't want to change tires 2x a year and scratch your wheels. then it hardly snows at all and your not driving like you want to w/ "winter tires" and all. Or worse yet some bone-head slides into you cuz he dident get new tires, while your minding your own bussines UGH. bite the bullet and spend a couple of grand on some beater w 4x4. that way you can have fun in the snow too!! why take the chance.
400hp+ rear wheel drive+ 6in. of snow= no-joy.
I just went for a little ride as Chicago is getting some snow right now, I had no problem with my winter tires and my GTO is a DD. I have the 18's for the summer and purchased the stock 17's off of some kid for $100 and winter tires for the winter at $600, total cost= $700. I was going to go with the Bilzzak as well, but my Uncle found these tires through one of his tire dealers that come for Finland. He uses them on my Aunts BMW and they have been awsome. They are said to be just a good, if not better than the Bilzzak. I am happy with them and am sure I would have been just as happy with the Bilzzak's if I would have went with them. Anyways, I went with the Nokian WR All Weather Plus 225/50/17. Their website if you want to take a look at them is http://www.nokiantires.com/en/tire_w...?season=winter
An excellent lower cost alternative to the Blizzaks are the Hankook IceBear W300 performance snow tires. My review is the 3rd one down (Under Mitsubishi Evo, since at the time a GTO wasn't an option in their review process).
http://www.discounttiredirect.com/di...NSH2&st=Winter

i was considering going from my 1.7 yella terras to 1.8's. Ive got 64cc chamber ls6 heads with 2.05 1.90 valves. with a lift of .581 .588 on the cam the new lift should be .615 .622. Im assuming i would have clearance issues but i figured i would ask if anyone new that i would for sure.
Not enough info. PVC is going to be affected by valve events more than lift. Duration, lobe centerline, and intake lobe centerline will affect PVC more than lift alone.
Always best to clay when in doubt.
Those are Comp XER lobes and "to me"... you'd be wasting your money for little, if any gain in HP...
Ed
sorry i forgot to also say it was a ls1. it is comp cam duration is 224 228 i belive...i wound have to look for the cam card. you lost me on the lobe centerline and stuff.
you think the extra lift if it would work really wouldnt be worth it?
Its not the lift that will be the determining factor but rather how fast the valves come on and off the seats since at full lift the piston is quite far away.
Note: Re-read post #3.
You will have sufficient clearance with 1.8 ratio rockers and that cam. Some members have reported using cam lifts as high as 630 on a stock LS1 motor and not having any PVC problems.
Vettenuts is also correct in that valve opening quickness determines the extra power since lifts over 600 offer little returns. For instance, a set of good heads may flow 300 at 600 lift and only 308 at 650, so the gains beyond 600 are negligible. Quickness lets the valve open sooner and remain open longer on a given duration and that's how it increases power.
Also keep in mind, PVC issues usually do not affect the intake valve which begins closing at the end of the intake stroke and is fully closed by the time the piston reaches halfway to top dead center on the compression stroke. The exhaust valve starts closing about halfway before TDC and retreats before the piston as it closes in. Because the Ex. valve is smaller, and this is one of the reasons why it is made smaller, it can successfully retreat from the piston crown without striking the crown even at high camlifts.
It certainly would not hurt to clay the motor before bolting down the heads. Also, if you do clay the motor, install the head without a gasket, hand turn the motor, and check number one piston. If sufficient clearance is indicated (.100 or 1/10th of an inch) you will have more than enough clearance since the gasket will also provide about .040 additional clearance. 100/1000ths is needed to compensate for Ex. valve expansion when hot.
If after claying the motor you find insufficient clearance, reset the cam timing with a camcard. Follow the manufactures procedure, and if the clearance is still insufficient then advance the cam timing 2 degrees. You can purchase an adjustable timing chain for our motors for that purpose. You may also find that when you camcard the motor, which sets the motor on the cam center line, that an adjustable timing chain is necessary to reset the valves at zero advance. TA455 was on the right track when he mentioned cam centerline since it is a factor if degreeing the cam becomes necessary. Do not fly cut the pistons.
But there should be sufficient clearance so you should not have to perform the above procedures.
thanks for info guys...i did alot of research last nite and found that most gains in tq for rockers was in the 2-4 range. not worth it in my opinion for what they cost. just curious tho...i didnt find anything about anybody runing two different ratios. ive heard about guys running 1.6 on intake and 1.7 on ex on non ls motors.just wondering what you opinions are on this for our motors.

i just ordered mine today 19" staggered drift r's black and i wanna see how they are going to look on my black beauty...so pbm's speak up!!!
3 Attachment(s) Not black, and there 18x8s, 18x10s so you might need to use your imagination, but here you go.
Just ordered mine as well. Dammit, I swear, I feel like I am buying a car and wheels that everyone and mom has after being around here!! Just kidding, did you get yours from GroupA? I cant fricking wait to get this thing on the road.
BTW, the last thread you made had a Yellow Goat with the 19's on it just like what we ordered. It looked killer...
Ahh, I just realized you said black wheels, not black car, my bad. Well anyway, it is going to look good. There are a few on that website that has pics of all the wheels on it.......
https://ishare.ucr.edu/larry/Public/...target121.html
yea im stoked i cant wait for my wheels but yeah my car is pbm and im having the wheels powdercoated by group a and the lip polished to a mirror shine!! they are gonna look hawt!

^^^^ Thats awesome. It needs some tinted side markers and 06 tails to complete it
schweeeeeeet that looks hawt!!!!!!! damn i cant wait for mine
^^^^ Thats awesome. It needs some tinted side markers and 06 tails to complete it side markers are tinted now, and i cant stand the 06 tails. i think im gonna get the cv8-r tails, just cant decide yet.
YEs, you will like them alot. I get tons of comments about the wheels. Post some pics when you get yours, I'm sure it will look outstanding with the red hood.
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Here's mine......
YEs, you will like them alot. I get tons of comments about the wheels. Post some pics when you get yours, I'm sure it will look outstanding with the red hood.
how do you like your side exit exhaust??? and your car looks damn good!!!!!should have my wheels in 2 weeks..

my car has been leaking coolant. Have to fill up the resevoir everyday. Seems to only leak after I park and turn the car off. Took a look today and it is dripping by the lower hose of the radiator (drivers side). It is the only place I could see it dripping from, but a plastic part on the radiator was wet from coolant and it is higher than the hose, leading me to think that the hose is not where the leak is coming from.
Has anyone else experience something similar. Going to have to wait until the weekend to check it out.
Friend told me to put some of that stop leak crap, but im not gonna do that to my car.
Sorry to hear that!
Smart move not using that stop leak though muscelgto!
Could the leak possibly be the Recovery Bottle Cap? (IE: Radiator Cap)?
Maybe it's allowing the pressure to push the fluid out of the overflow tube.
That tube is located right around the area your speaking about.
Just a guess, and the cheapest remedy I could think of. (New Cap)
Best of luck with it, I hope it's a cheap fix for you!
they actually have pressure testers at school, going to test it out see if it migth be it, thanks for the advice.
I have the same leak, only its a few droplets, and its dripped onto the radius rod bushing on the driver side. Its very slow, and isnt dripping on my driveway. I tried tightening the clamp but its still there.
What did you do to resolve this? Im out of warranty now, so I would have to fix this myself.
Water pump would be my guess if your hoses are good.
I had the same leak. Took it in and the pan on the front right of the radiator was starting to seperate from the cores. Dealer replaced the radiator and the problem has been gone since.
Mine had a bad hose clamp at the radiator. I just put a worm drive type on it and it fixed it right up.