I was looking into HIDs and came across these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB..._promot_widget
I contacted the seller just to get confirmation that I can get these in 6000k 50w and he said I can indeed. I don't want to pay $300+ for a set. They have a 12 month warranty and look pretty decent. The other set I was looking at had a lifetime warranty but was also 3 times the price.
What do you guys think?
Also, I would like to get 6000k 50w fogs. Does anyone have any recommendations/links to a seller?
Item location:
Guangzhou, Guangdong 510040, China that should say something
SCSS has some on sale right now for $235 shipped i think
Prolumen being the other sponsor that was the 50w kits.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HID-X...em260184431911
there are some even cheaper, 1 year warranty and any temp
Thanks. Unfortunately those are only 35w tho. As much as I agree with you about the crappy quality that China is notorious for, sometimes they do make some quality stuff. I just don't think it's worth paying 3, 4 or even 5 times more for a "name brand" set. Some of them aren't even name brand.
I'm not necessarily counting out spending a bit more for assured quality, hence the post requesting opinions. ;)
Item location:
that should say something
where do you think 90% of these kits come from?
Thanks. Unfortunately those are only 35w tho. As much as I agree with you about the crappy quality that China is notorious for, sometimes they do make some quality stuff. I just don't think it's worth paying 3, 4 or even 5 times more for a "name brand" set. Some of them aren't even name brand.
I'm not necessarily counting out spending a bit more for assured quality, hence the post requesting opinions. ;) I agree with ya, and I actually might spring for one of the kits I posted up for my foglights...haha. I mean they do come with a 1 year warranty, so...
One thing I do know about China is, their products are definately improving. Also, a lot of the time, these people selling stuff actually PRODUCE for the larger companies that mark things up here w/ a prettier package.
I've bought more then a few "chinese" products that were identical to the "american sold" products for MUCH cheaper (not HID stuff though) I wouldn't hesitate in trying the cheap HID's.. If they don't work out, oh well.....if they do....SWEET
I went ahead and picked up a 9005 kit in 4300K for my fogs...will let you know when they come in, just look for a thread in about a week or so.
thanks for the link, $81.64 shipped :)
That's kinda how I'm feeling HotRodGuy.
Any links to 50w 6000k fog lights?
If I can't find identical fogs I'm not going to even bother getting these cuz it will look silly.
Edit: I thought our fogs were 9040s. Can you just fit any size bulb in there or are the 9005s the right size? I'm confused! :rolleyes:
http://www.ls2gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=199811
Holiday Sale going on at Prolumen
We still have limited 50W applications available.
Are yours lifetime warranty? If I bought 1 kit for my lows and 1 for my fogs, what would it cost?
So here's the two I'm looking at right now.
These come with a 12 month warranty:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...176731174&rd=1
And these come with a LIFETIME warranty:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...171699359&rd=1
The difference in price is ~$200 if I buy 2 kits. Is the lifetime warranty worth that extra dough? I wanna buy a stage 1 suspension kit and that extra $200 would certainly help. But I don't wanna be a cheap ass and end up getting cheap crap. Hmmmmmmm......
the company will be LONG gone by the time you need to invoke your lifetime warranty IMO
I believe both our sponsors have lifetime warranties on HIDs, but don't quote me on that.
Ahhhhhh, good point HRG. But if they are willing to put a lifetime warranty on it, that often means that it is a quality piece (generally speaking of course).
Where in the first auction you listed does it say 50w? Just curious.
I am going to sleep on it tonight. But I am thinking of getting 2 kits from the first link I posted, then buy a stage 1 bushing kit with the money I have left over. The only other thing I want to do is get some CSLs on her and I'll be a happy man. :)
Where in the first auction you listed does it say 50w? Just curious. "I contacted the seller just to get confirmation that I can get these in 6000k 50w and he said I can indeed." ;)
what is the bulb # i would need for fogs, and also for dims?
Look on ebay for PILOT Hids I have had them in my fogs for almost two years in two different GOATS and knock on wood no problems....
what is the bulb # i would need for fogs, and also for dims? I believe it is 9005.
Look on ebay for PILOT Hids I have had them in my fogs for almost two years in two different GOATS and knock on wood no problems.... Thanks BT. Will do!
9005 for driving/fog lights
oh they're the same...cool thank you.
No, not the same. The low beams are H11's and the fogs are 9005s.
I've been using super cheapie HID kits from China in both my lows and fogs for 6 months now and not a problem with either one of them.
oh!! lol thanks for clearing that up greg.
i may get a set for both myself. if it doesn't work out too well, not like i'm out a ton of money.lol
sorry, some people call them fogs, other people call them driving lights
h11 low beams
9005 fog lights
subscribing so i can hear the results, The Mustang would ROCK w/ HIDs

I have kooks Lts without cats and a magnaflow x pipe with stock mufflers . It sounds to highpitched and too raspyand not v8 enough i was thinking spintechs or the slp lm1 . i know i cant go wrong with with the slp but i really dont want to wake the dead. ive heard spintechs but they sound raspy so i imagine with lts catless im back in square one.
thanks again
I have stainless works 3" exhaust with X pipe where the resonators were. It came with the car and the owner was 61 years old. He purchased the exhaust because he wanted it to be quiet when idle but when he opens it up it screams.
Now I have LT's/catless mids/cam and at idle
that's what it sounds like
When I get on it, boy does it scream.
I would get flowmasters 44-series with an H pipe if I could redo my exhaust, but I am getting cutouts sooner or later, so I want the exhaust to be decently quiet when I have them closed so cops don't get at me.
yea i thought about flowmasters but ive herd they might take away some hp . And i dont mind loud but without raspyness i like the stainless works it sounds good im going to look into it thanks
rasp huh?
I think w/ an x pipe thats hard to avoid.
I have kooks Lts without cats and a magnaflow x pipe with stock mufflers . It sounds to highpitched and too raspyand not v8 enough i was thinking spintechs or the slp lm1 . i know i cant go wrong with with the slp but i really dont want to wake the dead. ive heard spintechs but they sound raspy so i imagine with lts catless im back in square one.
thanks again You could try replacing the X-Pipe with an H-Pipe since you still have the stock mufflers.
Go with Spintech trust me...
Replace the x-pipe w/ a h-pipe(Stolenfox) and the stock mufflers w/ Flowmaster super 40s. This will give you a nice musclecar sound that's not crazy loud. Flowmasters cost hp-yeah whatever:rolleyes:
Go with Spintech trust me... do you live in miami ? if you do could i hear your exhaust if you have a spintech
Yea i thought about replacing the xpipe with an h pipe but i want mufflers that sound good too not the stock system
I have SLP LM1's and love them.
Every gtg I go to I always get asked if i'm tuned and what kind of headers do I have. When really I don't either yet.
SLP LM1's:ftw:
one more for SW...nothing obnoxious at idle, but screams at WOT. Ive been told by a guy sitting next to me in traffic that my car sounded "beefy"...lol
do you live in miami ? if you do could i hear your exhaust if you have a spintech
Yea i thought about replacing the xpipe with an h pipe but i want mufflers that sound good too not the stock system Yea I live in Miami but my girlfriend got it for me for Christmas and I am not supposed to know that so I have to wait until then to get it put on my car:)
l think im going slp lm1 if its too loud ill just put them on my 5.0

I have a set of MC2 wheels that I am going to break up and sell
I know a few of you guys need just need 1 wheel. I will let them go for 250$ no tire and split shipping cost. Let me know if any one is intrested. I can post pics.
I would like to see pics. I have a set, and would love to have two extras.
I would like an extra one. But I only piad $250.00 each for mine with tires. Better price and I'm in.
Here is the deal with the wheels 2 are perfect and 2 are not. Getting some pics right now i will post them i a little while. 2 were bent from hitting a curb. I am going to buy a different set of 18" wheels and need to keep the tires. I figured 2 would sell and the other 2 I had fixed and chrome machined from the lips. I ran 2 on one side and 2 on the other, most people actually like the look of machined lip better and now are perfect except for the non-chromed lips. I will post pics of all 4.after lunch.

Ok, so here's the deal:
Thursday: Clutch petal and trans were fine when I drove all over for Thanksgiving.
Friday: I didn't drive it until the nighttime, no problems.
Saturday: I go to drive it in the afternoon and getting the car into gear is a little pain. Also, the clutch petal doesn't have as much pressure as it had before. After driving the car for a little, shifting is no problem.
Sunday: I go to drive it at night and it's a bitch to get into Reverse, as well as 1st. The clutch petal has even less pressure.
Monday: I go to drive to work in the morning and it won't go into Reverse at all. I can get the shifter all the way over to the right, but it won't go into gear. So, I wait a minute, pop it into first, then reverse I'm able to somehow get it in. Shifting to 1st, PITA, as well as every other gear. As I get closer to work (15 minutes from startup) it is getting a little better into 2nd, but the rest are not going in. Downshifting is a no-go...not even close to getting into 4th or 3rd, unless I yank the crap out of the shifter and shimmy it and double-clutch a couple times.
The clutch petal has barely any travel upon disengaging. When it was normal, it would have about 1-2" of nothing before I could feel it disengage. Then about 10" of travel from disengagement to the floor. Now, there's about 6" of nothing followed by 6" from disengagement to the floor, and getting worse.
Here's the question...is my clutch gone? Does the system need to be bled? Car has 47k miles on it, clutch bled once at 36k miles. The clutch grabs just fine once I can get the damn shifter into gear, and it hasn't been slipping one bit. I haven't done any clutch drops either.
Please tell me good news..:cursin:
Ok, I tried some different search terms in google and found a good post on ls1lt1.com and it seems like I either:
a. Have low clutch fluid reservior
b. Air in the lines
c. A leak somewhere
d. Any combination of the above.
Can anyone confirm this? I am going to see if my mechanic can look at it real quick. If I need to replace the Trans fluid and do a flush/bleed, what kind should I replace it with? I just saw a thread in here about the fluid...seems like either Amsoil or Torco?
i think your slave cylinder is suspect.
i just bought a 04 with 50,000 miles-that night same problems with getting into gear-roll it into my driveway and the next morning the clutch fluid reservoir is bone dry-top it off and work the clutch for awhile and it was fine-over the next week it slowly kept draining- i brought it back to the dealership where they had to replace the slave cylinder-thankfully pontiac or whoever designed this set up made it so the whole tranny had to be dropped- it can end up being an expensive job-by the way i had no fluid leaking on the ground or anywhere so u cant always go by that
There's all kinds of crap on the fluid from the factory. If you waited until 35K miles to replace the fluid, I'm 99% sure your slave is gone. If fuid is low, then the figure is 100%.
If fluid level is fine, it's probably a bad master cylinder, which leaks internally. That crap inside the system eventually messes up the slave, master, or both.
I'd still try a full bleed before doing anything else, as a bottle of brake fluid costs only $3. I used a piece of hose siliconed to a deep socket to get most of the fluid on a bottle, and inserted shop towels into the hole to absorb whatever came out of the socket, and it worked like a charm with not even a drop of brake fluid spilled. I did this with 3K miles, and couldn't believe the crap that came out of that hose. Fluid was like sludge too. Good luck man.
JC
I talked to the previous owner and the fluid was flushed, then replaced at the 36k mile mark. I looked and there was no fluid left in the reservoir. I filled it up and pumped the petal and got almost all pressure back so I can drive it now. I looked again this morning and the fluid in the reservoir dropped 1/3 inch from the top overnight with the car sitting, then was down about 1/2" from the top after driving 10 miles to work. There's no fluid on the ground from what I can tell, and by researching that should mean a bad slave?
I talked to the previous owner and the fluid was flushed, then replaced at the 36k mile mark. I looked and there was no fluid left in the reservoir. I filled it up and pumped the petal and got almost all pressure back so I can drive it now. I looked again this morning and the fluid in the reservoir dropped 1/3 inch from the top overnight with the car sitting, then was down about 1/2" from the top after driving 10 miles to work. There's no fluid on the ground from what I can tell, and by researching that should mean a bad slave?
ding ding ding!
ding ding ding! Ok, cool. Mechanic is checking it out on Thursday to verify. Do they need to drop the tranny to do this? The reason I ask is because I asked them if they would do the F-Body slave instead of the GTO (just swap the hydraulic fittings) and they said prob. not because if the part doesn't end up working, they don't want to have to drop the tranny again, even though I know it works.
Ok, cool. Mechanic is checking it out on Thursday to verify. Do they need to drop the tranny to do this? The reason I ask is because I asked them if they would do the F-Body slave instead of the GTO (just swap the hydraulic fittings) and they said prob. not because if the part doesn't end up working, they don't want to have to drop the tranny again, even though I know it works. Yes, they have to drop the transmission to get to the slave solenoid. Make sure they have the exhaust gaskets in stock also, had a Pontiac dealer instead of my Chevrolet dealer do the work, they had the car for 3 days!!!!
Do you think they'll have to drop the trans to diagnose the problem? I don't want them to do that for $100, then tell them to pound sand while I find someone else who'll put the F-Body slave in.
Do you think they'll have to drop the trans to diagnose the problem? I don't want them to do that for $100, then tell them to pound sand while I find someone else who'll put the F-Body slave in. as per GM policy, they can 'diagnose' the problem by considering the symptoms and seeing the leak mark where the bell housing meets up with the tran.
however, they will have to visually verify the part in question and will, therefore, have to drop the tranny.
See you on Monday....Frank

I was stepping through a log last night and watching the hystogram to see where the airflow/rpm was so I could try to figure out what was controlling the spark and when.
Under the menu: Engine > Spark Control it shows the tables for Main Spark Advance (high and low octane) and Idle Spark Advance - Base. I pulled up High Octane and Base, and noticed the two tables overlap between 400-1600 RPM.
So if I (for instance) am running in the cell 0.20 @800 RPM, in the Idle Base Spark table I see 22 degrees, and in the Main Spark Advance table I see 33, yet I'm logging 18.
How the hell can one try to figure out which table is in effect, and when. As a programmer, these two tables make no sense to me. Seems redundant. Anyway, in the HP Tuners help file it says, "Main Spark Table Selects
If either of these TPS or MPH values is exceeded the VCM will select the Main Spark tables, otherwise the Base Spark tables are used. The value minus the hysteresis is required to revert back to the Base table from the Main tables."
Where are those settings to tell it when to use which table?
Thanks,
Gerry
Gerry:
You know, SK360 and I were talking about this yesterday. I cut n paste my Idle Spark Base, onto my high octane spark table, fixed low end drivability big time, since the car, will be referencing the same values at all times, till 1600 rpm.
Made a big diff.
Theres various adders and subtactors, and multipliers that go into final spark. You have to go through each table, and figure out which condition it would tie into what tables.
Gerry:
You know, SK360 and I were talking about this yesterday. I cut n paste my Idle Spark Base, onto my high octane spark table, fixed low end drivability big time, since the car, will be referencing the same values at all times, till 1600 rpm.
Made a big diff.
Theres various adders and subtactors, and multipliers that go into final spark. You have to go through each table, and figure out which condition it would tie into what tables. Thanks...I actually think somehow I eneded up getting two of my questions intertwined :D
I think that's one of my problems...my tables are WAY off if I overlap them. As I pull away from a light and am in 2nd or 3rd, I can actually feel the pull of the car change, so I knew there has to be a transition that is really off. This might be it.
Learning, learning, learning...
Gerry
Thanks...I actually think somehow I eneded up getting two of my questions intertwined :D
I think that's one of my problems...my tables are WAY off if I overlap them. As I pull away from a light and am in 2nd or 3rd, I can actually feel the pull of the car change, so I knew there has to be a transition that is really off. This might be it.
Learning, learning, learning...
Gerry I had the same issue, so I set my base idle tables to what I wanted them, then copied it over to my high octane table, or the other way around, as long as the values are enough to idle properly, and for low end drivability. The two tables will refernece each other, then just tell the car to command 1 set of spark commands, vs doing an equation.
I had the same issue, so I set my base idle tables to what I wanted them, then copied it over to my high octane table, or the other way around, as long as the values are enough to idle properly, and for low end drivability. The two tables will refernece each other, then just tell the car to command 1 set of spark commands, vs doing an equation. I think I'd seen that mentioned before somewhere, then last night when I had the hystograms pulled up and those two tables side-by-side, it sort of dawned on me how big a difference there was. And just for the record...**I** am the one who has those low RPM timing numbers set that way.
Where the hell was all this rain a couple months ago when we needed it??? lol Only thing I got to do yesterday was a cold start test. :cursin:
Gerry
I think I'd seen that mentioned before somewhere, then last night when I had the hystograms pulled up and those two tables side-by-side, it sort of dawned on me how big a difference there was. And just for the record...**I** am the one who has those low RPM timing numbers set that way.
Where the hell was all this rain a couple months ago when we needed it??? lol Only thing I got to do yesterday was a cold start test. :cursin:
Gerry I have my low rpm/low tps timing settings in the high-low 30s
I have my low rpm/low tps timing settings in the high-low 30s Where is that setting? I'm either blind or stupid because I cannot find it.
Gerry
Where is that setting? I'm either blind or stupid because I cannot find it.
Gerry High octane timing is your main table
Base idle spark advance is the other.
Look at them both, you'll see they have very similar criteria
High octane timing is your main table

Base idle spark advance is the other.

Look at them both, you'll see they have very similar criteria Sorry. I misunderstood. I thought you were saying that there's a setting somewhere that says use Base < 30 and Main >30 tps. As far as I can see, there's still no place to say when it will use the base vs. main advance tables.

I do see the high and low octane tables and the base. I now have all three of those tables identical in all 400-1600 rpm cells. I took her out, and she runs great, but I won't know how she's doing until I get some higher iats.

I've just about got my starting problems worked out, but man am I so happy to have that idle straitened out. She never, ever tries to die on me now, and I can now do something I haven't been able to do since I got the cam. I can now just slowly let the clutch out, and it will pull me up my (sloped) driveway and into the garage without dieing!!! Woo Hoo!!!

Gerry
Sorry. I misunderstood. I thought you were saying that there's a setting somewhere that says use Base < 30 and Main >30 tps. As far as I can see, there's still no place to say when it will use the base vs. main advance tables.

I do see the high and low octane tables and the base. I now have all three of those tables identical in all 400-1600 rpm cells. I took her out, and she runs great, but I won't know how she's doing until I get some higher iats.

I've just about got my starting problems worked out, but man am I so happy to have that idle straitened out. She never, ever tries to die on me now, and I can now do something I haven't been able to do since I got the cam. I can now just slowly let the clutch out, and it will pull me up my (sloped) driveway and into the garage without dieing!!! Woo Hoo!!!

Gerry
I never touch low octane, the car reverts to low octane timing if its less than 91 octane present. Although if youre running a lot of advance, I wouldnt go lower than 93 octane.
Bad gas can also revert to the low octane table too, so i always feel its best to leave it alone.
How did you fix your idle? Mine still likes to die in reverse if i dont give it enough gas.
I never touch low octane, the car reverts to low octane timing if its less than 91 octane present. Although if youre running a lot of advance, I wouldnt go lower than 93 octane.
Bad gas can also revert to the low octane table too, so i always feel its best to leave it alone.
How did you fix your idle? Mine still likes to die in reverse if i dont give it enough gas. I just copied the high to low because it looks like that's what my tuner did and I think I've seen others do that as well. With the exception of a couple tanks when I first got the car, I've run nothing but 93.
If I knew exactly what I've done to fix it, I would tell you. To be honest, I've done so much testing and have changed so many things I'm not quite sure what exactly fixed it. I think just giving it a little air to breate with and more timing under 1000 RPM helped a lot.
My adaptive airflow settings were way off, so I used yours. I've since backed those down a bit from yours, and I might have to make another adjustment. I had some instability on cold start this morning, but we'll see. I may have messed that up a bit with my timing settings last night.
I added values over stock for all of the final idle airflow min vs. rpm <=1200, but your values are +1 to +2 to mine in 800-1000. I also got rid of what it looks like two anomalies to me...where the values just drop to 0 in the stock file. I filled in the 0's with what looked like appropriate values.
Here's a compare of my current table and yours:
0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 -1.28320 -2.01758
0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 -1.28320 -2.01758
0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 -1.46680 -2.01758
0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 -1.09961 -2.38281
0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 -1.09961 -1.65039
0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 -0.73242 -1.83398
0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 8.43359 -1.28320
0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 -1.46680
0.00000 1.32422 7.41992 0.00000 -1.12891
And finally, I made my Idle Adaptive Spark Control settings identical to yours.
Gerry
I just copied the high to low because it looks like that's what my tuner did and I think I've seen others do that as well. With the exception of a couple tanks when I first got the car, I've run nothing but 93.
If I knew exactly what I've done to fix it, I would tell you. To be honest, I've done so much testing and have changed so many things I'm not quite sure what exactly fixed it. I think just giving it a little air to breate with and more timing under 1000 RPM helped a lot.
My adaptive airflow settings were way off, so I used yours. I've since backed those down a bit from yours, and I might have to make another adjustment. I had some instability on cold start this morning, but we'll see. I may have messed that up a bit with my timing settings last night.
I added values over stock for all of the final idle airflow min vs. rpm <=1200, but your values are +1 to +2 to mine in 800-1000. I also got rid of what it looks like two anomalies to me...where the values just drop to 0 in the stock file. I filled in the 0's with what looked like appropriate values.
Here's a compare of my current table and yours:
0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 -1.28320 -2.01758
0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 -1.28320 -2.01758
0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 -1.46680 -2.01758
0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 -1.09961 -2.38281
0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 -1.09961 -1.65039
0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 -0.73242 -1.83398
0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 8.43359 -1.28320
0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 -1.46680
0.00000 1.32422 7.41992 0.00000 -1.12891
And finally, I made my Idle Adaptive Spark Control settings identical to yours.
Gerry which is which?
1 Attachment(s) which is which? Here's the stock table on top, and my changes on bottom. The negative values in the table I pasted in represent where you have a higher value in that cell than I do.
Any thoughts on those cells left at 0 on the stock file? Are those errors, or intentional?
Gerry
Here's the stock table on top, and my changes on bottom. The negative values in the table I pasted in represent where you have a higher value in that cell than I do.
Any thoughts on those cells left at 0 on the stock file? Are those errors, or intentional?
Gerry
I have a larger cam, which is why my airflow values might be higher
your have a 228/232 vs my 236/238
I have a larger cam, which is why my airflow values might be higher
your have a 228/232 vs my 236/238 Yeah, that's just where I happened to see a difference between yours and mine. IIRC, I adjusted mine to be similar to another 228/232 112 lsa car.
Gerry
Yeah, that's just where I happened to see a difference between yours and mine. IIRC, I adjusted mine to be similar to another 228/232 112 lsa car.
Gerry keep in mind, air intakes can play a pivotal role in airflow as well
1 Attachment(s) keep in mind, air intakes can play a pivotal role in airflow as well Roger. What are you running? Volant here with stock tb and intake.
I'm going the wrong way with things. Car drives great, but the timing changes I did last night and today have me not starting again. I guess I also need to get out of "play and learn" mode and start working on a Rev 2 of my tune and logging what I'm doing.
I'm also learning how to use the hystograms...even if some of them concern me.
Gerry
are those tables on post #13 only on LS2s?
i can't seem to find them.
are those tables on post #13 only on LS2s?
i can't seem to find them. ya, your idle is set and forget
LS2 is controlled by various tables
Roger. What are you running? Volant here with stock tb and intake.
I'm going the wrong way with things. Car drives great, but the timing changes I did last night and today have me not starting again. I guess I also need to get out of "play and learn" mode and start working on a Rev 2 of my tune and logging what I'm doing.
I'm also learning how to use the hystograms...even if some of them concern me.
Gerry
what did you change? and wow thats a lot of knock in some of those higher cells
what did you change? and wow thats a lot of knock in some of those higher cells You want to hear something really scary? That log was on my way to work this morning. I don't know what the hell is going on with that. I'm seeing KR in a lot of places that make no sense to me at all.
I believe the only thing I changed last night was the timing to make the one base table be the same as the high octane table and smoothed everything out. I think I've just added too much timing in down low or something...adaptive idle sort of stumbled a bit too.
Gerry