I feel like an idiot posting this, but I just finished my Kooks install and the car will not turn over. I don't mean "dead battery" won't turn over, I mean Engine Locked up won't turn over.
We have put a breaker bar on the balancer and it will not budge. The car was driven in my garage and is on jack stands. Could we have done something jacking the motor up during the install? Everything appears fine and nothing is touching anything. The car does have a ProCharger by the way.
I am lost on this one.....please help!
OMG!....I hate it when that happens!!!
I'm serious!
did you drop any bolts or washers?
No, we certainly did not. Only 4 plugs out. Still working on it.
i got nothing. thats pretty damn odd.
Does anyone think we should pull the plugs and try manually turning it over?
This makes no sense at all!
You didn't use the oil pan to jack the car up did you?
Holy piss... I've never heard of anything like this happening before.
Good luck though, you'll feel better when you hear it crank over the first time with those Kooks on though. Don't give up! :bubbrub
Does anyone think we should pull the plugs and try manually turning it over?
This makes no sense at all! Yes. If it doesn't work after that, pull the heads. No sense taking any chances with something that may have found its way into the cylinder.
You didn't use the oil pan to jack the car up did you? We did, but the weight was distributed properly and there is no damage to the pan.
was the car in neutral when you turned it with a breaker bar
this is weird

take the belts off maybe the supercharger lock up
So the motor doesn't even turn over a little bit in either direction? All you did is put headers on?
was the car in neutral when you turned it with a breaker bar
I was wondering the same thing, like maybe its in gear with the brake on or something????
being in gear only affects a stick car. an auto would still spin the converter. but it sure as **** wont turn easy.
fluids do not compress.....
leak down?
yak!
sorry to hear this, man.
pull the plugs first, always go cheapest route first. lol
being in gear only affects a stick car. an auto would still spin the converter. but it sure as **** wont turn easy. Well ya but his car is a stick. Atleast thats what it says anyways.
yeah, i didnt look at the sig. my bad.
We did, but the weight was distributed properly and there is no damage to the pan. Who the hell jacks a car up by the oil pan, aluminum no less!
Who the hell jacks a car up by the oil pan, aluminum no less!
WTF!!!! I didn"t jack the car up by the oil pan, I used it to raise the motor during the header install with the mounts loosened.
Please think before you post!
Hopefully you figure it out, but.....the whole oil pan thing was kind of dumb, and I hope its not your issue, but holy shat. There are jacking points in the front you know that right?
you just said you did!
Where is everyone getting the idea that I used the pan to raise the car??????
We did, but the weight was distributed properly and there is no damage to the pan. You didn't use the oil pan to jack the car up did you? Right here.
OK, here is an update.....pulled the plugs and three of the cylinders were so full of gas that it poured out when the plugs were removed. This is Great News!!!
The engine now turns over freely by hand.
I will let it dry out overnight and update tommorow.
I was talking to Black Devil and when I accidentally left the key on, the battery went dead which apparently can cause some odd things to occur as the voltage drops.
Thanks for the quick replies from so many of you. It proves again how useful the internet can be!
o man, this is good... makes no sense if you just did headers.
Right here. Understood, but it was used to raise the motor, not the car. Sorry for the confusion.
this is definatly odd, sounds like you have another issue at hand.
fluids do not compress.....
leak down? seems i was onto something.....:hail::slap::rolleyes:
seems i was onto something.....:hail::slap::rolleyes: Yes your right! Wild that it did that though, but you should not work a car with the battery hooked up and the key on....keeps things like that from happening.
Anyways good to see its nothing serious.
Yes your right! Wild that it did that though, but you should not work a car with the battery hooked up and the key on....keeps things like that from happening.
Anyways good to see its nothing serious. Agreed. The key issue was not intentional, but it will not happen again!
I just hope there is no damage from attempting to start it with the hydrolock issue.

I'm looking to put a Sparco wheel on my 06 GTO. Anybody have any recommendations to ease the process? What tools will I need, etc.? Thanks.
Gross, why?
just a steering wheel puller set if i remember correctly.
Gross, why? :iagree:
any pics? I'm curious to see this.
unless it's a dedicated track car, why? you will lose the airbag and stereo controls. not to mention, our stock wheel is VERY nice looking.
personally i would never hamper safety for aesthetics, that is just ricer to the bone.
But if your planning on going racing harness and not just for looks, i would assume you just take it off and then find the adapter to convert it to universal (if it isnt already) I cant find it right now, but i have seen a few steering wheel removal threads on here. i cant remember the name of the wheel people switch too, maybe HSV something or other.
personally i would never hamper safety for aesthetics, that is just ricer to the bone. that what I am thinkin ....why would you wanna do this ???
that what I am thinkin ....why would you wanna do this ??? Because its off da hook yo!!
Because the Sparco wheels have the little red buttons for tha Nawwws.
Because its off da hook yo!! yea your right sorry I am such a n00b
The Sparco steering wheel is also lighter, so you should shed .1 of your ET.
the gto wheel is heavy and bulky to turn ...and its not rice ricers took this from race cars
and ruined the sparco name
agree ^^
Kinda like putting sparco race seats in a non race GTO. Plenty of goat owners doing that so they might as well have a steering wheel to match. Nothing like sparco seats and steering wheel on a daily driver lol.
wow.... lots of unsolicited opinions here.... I don't remember reading the OP's post where it asked "should I do this?"
If you can't help the OP with the question he asked, then don't throw in an editorial....
I'm looking to put a Sparco wheel on my 06 GTO. Anybody have any recommendations to ease the process? What tools will I need, etc.? Thanks.
i dont agree with what you are doing. that said you will need a flathead screwdriver to remove the airbag. there are some metal verticle bars on the back of the wheel. you need to gently pry the bars to toward the steering column while pulling the bag towards you. there are 4 bars(silver in color), one for each corner. they will probably be hard to see with the column in the car, try looking through the windshield for them first.
just a steering wheel puller set if i remember correctly. ummm :huh: No there is no need for a wheel puller. The wheel comes off without it.
The airbag clips like muff daddy already indicated... and a T45 (or T50?) "socket" for the removal of the bolt that holds the wheel on. (the 2006 is different then the 2004 and 2005, those are a 30mm nut)
Oh and remove the "SRS" (airbag) fuse at the very least if not the battery connection as well when removing the airbag.
Then there is the problem that as far as I know, there is no off the shelf adapter from any manufacturer to get it to bolt up, so good luck on the hub adapter part needed.
I know I've seen one or 2 done, and I know the Rhys Millen drift cars had them, but not sure if they were one offs or modified to work.
^^ My 05 has a 30mm bolt as well.

I'm curious as to how much WHP you GOAT guys are getting out of the Pacesetter's. I want to drop my JBA Shorties and go Long Tube's, especially with the new HPE S-Cam; it will help a lot.
BREATHE ! ! !
look at my dyno thread. im betting 10HP on install, 20 from tune.
I was thinking about going with Pacesetters as well, how much more hp would you expect from Kooks or SLP then for the Pacesetters?
I was thinking about going with Pacesetters as well, how much more hp would you expect from Kooks or SLP then for the Pacesetters?
there is a thread that Brandon has that thrashes a few sets of headers. its a few ponies, but nothing major. anything is really good in a longtube configuration. it all comes down to $$$, ease of install, and aesthetics.
ALright thanks man I think Ill still go Pacesetter and a dyno tune
ALright thanks man I think Ill still go Pacesetter and a dyno tune
you wont be disappointed. the headers are a pain to install, unless you work smarter and not harder. just dont get frustrated. i have a thread in Dyno/Tuning where i just got dyno tuned for the longtubes. pretty decent gains for not alot of dough.
lets see my dynos were
297/309 JBA's headers no tune
309/329 JBA's with street tuning
337/351 PS LT's dyno tune
I also have air intake, 160 stat, ported TB, tb bypass and SLP LM catback almost same mods Yellow, but that underdrive pulley should give you some more. Keep me updated cause I'm thinking thats my next mod.
20-30...the tune plays a big role than anything.
lets see my dynos were
297/309 JBA's headers no tune
309/329 JBA's with street tuning
337/351 PS LT's dyno tune
I also have air intake, 160 stat, ported TB, tb bypass and SLP LM catback almost same mods Yellow, but that underdrive pulley should give you some more. Keep me updated cause I'm thinking thats my next mod.
your numbers are a little higher than mine were, but you have intake and ported TB, so it adds up. throw a UD in there and he might be 350hp territory.
How were cats figured in this testing? Catless mid pipes or catted?
There's a guy on here who even Pacesetter quotes as getting 33 rwhp after installing LT's and a tune.

Backfiring and Hesitation at idle and under load
what do we got?
Backfiring and Hesitation at idle and under load
what do we got? tuned yet?
car feels like it can't pull through the RPMs at all?
first thought based off what you've said leads me to timing being off if all else is right... could be a number of things though.
Are you sure you got the timing marks lined up?
car pulls but hesitates the whole trip, backfires as well.
if im < 10% throttle shes smooth, any more aggressive though and she backfires and hesitates.
Spark timing maybe, cam timing i doubt.
its a comp cam grind with +4 ground into it, so I Indexed it straight up. the timing should be on the cam +4.
no computer mods have been done to it thus far except raising the idle to 900 over factory 800.
how far did you break the engine down? Buddy had a similar problem and it ended up being the cam plate, but he was also having issues with fuel shooting out the exhaust due to it all.
Tuned or untuned? What are the cam specs?
im betting you are teeth off. yes i said teeth. or your cam/crank sensors are goofy.
right now, untuned.. i put the factory tune back on it and bumped the idle to 900, seemed to help with the idle a little bit.
cam specs;
comp XR275HR cam .566/.568 lift 222/224 duration 112 lsa
tune it
what should be modified on the tune then?
did you degree the cam, or just shove it in and go "dot to dot"?
Check the teeth
Sounds like the cam is off. That cam shouldn't cause driveability issues that bad tuned or untuned.
how can you degree a cam without an adjustable crank/cam gearset?
without an adjustable gearset you have to be off in increments of 7.5 degrees and at that rate you would be slapping the pistons with the valves
what about drilling the throttle body?
writeup says to do that if you want to.
how can you degree a cam without an adjustable crank/cam gearset?
without an adjustable gearset you have to be off in increments of 7.5 degrees and at that rate you would be slapping the pistons with the valves
what i mean is throw a wheel on it and make sure the cam is what it is supposed to be and installed correctly.
Make sure the coil packs are on right (all the connections are snug) and your plug wires are in good condition. You should also check the ceramic on the plugs to make sure that isn't cracked or damaged. Sometimes when you R&R older plug wires the core will crack... which is impossible to catch with a visual inspection.
This sounds exactly like a problem I had when I did my first head swap a long time ago. There was really no need for a tune on that project, and it was acting the same way you describe.
what i mean is throw a wheel on it and make sure the cam is what it is supposed to be and installed correctly. Let's say you do that, and it's not right? What can you do if you don't have an adjustable timing chain set up?
Let's say you do that, and it's not right? What can you do if you don't have an adjustable timing chain set up? Buy one or live with it.
Let's say you do that, and it's not right? What can you do if you don't have an adjustable timing chain set up? if its not right, are you going to go ahead and install it? no. you will spend the money on an adjustable set, right? its just a good idea when you are paying good money for a cam/setup and messing with some big $$$ like a motor. better safe than sorry. call it piece of mind.
but in this case, im thinking the "dots" are not lined up. im betting he is a tooth or two off. dots will get you in the ball park, but the article on FTI's website states it best: "What's a degree or two among friends?" what if the crank and the cam were both "friday" builds. that's a recipe for disaster.
and all of this talk is just ideas. we are assuming the basics have already been covered/troubleshot. are the plugs tight? are any of the plugs cracked? are the wires on tight? are there any vacuum leaks? are all of the electrical harness plugs plugged in? did you tighten the bolts on the cam?
a cam swap, however easy, has the ability to go wrong at any time. there are just too many things going on. add in the "little kid at christmas" feeling, and things can go south in a hurry.
all im saying is, cover all of your bases.
Good catch Monster'06, #1 plug was fractured
I was reviewing the HP tuners log and #8 and # 1 had the highest misfires, 8 seemed ok, 1 was fractured, going to get new plugs tomorrow and then check again.
I really appreciate all the help everyone has given.
my sincere thanks to you all
my initial diagnosis was wrong.
glad you figured it out, and the fix is even cheap.
Good catch Monster'06, #1 plug was fractured
I was reviewing the HP tuners log and #8 and # 1 had the highest misfires, 8 seemed ok, 1 was fractured, going to get new plugs tomorrow and then check again.
I really appreciate all the help everyone has given.
my sincere thanks to you all Thanks. Glad to help.:gears:

I have a magnacharged 06 six speed with a custom tune (436 rwhp & 440 rwtq) and was wondering if the rest of you with superchargers have this problem. The guy that did the tune said that he doesn’t have that much experience with the ls2 yet and this is the first gto he has done. So I wonder if he missed something or was I asking to much with traction control?
1. When I got the tune I was asked if I wanted to turn traction control defaulted off, I said no, no reason I can just turn it off when I want to play. Now when I just role into the throttle in a higher gear (lets say 4th) to use the torque the car has a little jerk and traction control turns its self off. It cant be reset until the key is shut all the way off and restarted.
2. When I do get on it hard I notice that the clutch seems real springy for a couple of shifts afterwards. Is this the clutch slipping, it doesn’t feel like it is.
3. For those with the tune from magnacharger or procharger do you have traction control, does it work the way it should or is it turned off?
Any help or info would be wonderful
Sounds like a tuner screwup. Shoulda gone to a guy with experience with LS. Take a little drive down to Mooresville, NC, and ask for Nick....
off altogether...no effect at all...whether on or off
The guy that did the tune also did my trans am and it was great. he said that the ls2 takes a new program different from ls1 which he knows well, but i think i will have to take it to a new tuner and see what happens
Go see Jeff Creech at CAM <===SPONSOR.
he had to have saved your stock tune. i would take it back and have him look at the stock tune and set it all back to stock(all the TC stuff that is).you #'s however seem a little low for a maggie. I bet he didnt move up the IAT table to make up for the high temps it is now seeing. so just for kicks before you go and spend another 4-500$ somewhere else have him set the TC stuff back to stock and then have him make it NOT start to pull timming till around 150*. you should see more HP and should get the TC to work right. Did he turn off the tq management?
Go see Jeff Creech at CAM <===SPONSOR. +1 for the Milkman....Frank
First, find out what software the tuner used to ?tune? your car. be sure he did not lock the PCM.
Second, get down to NC and let Jeff Creech handle the situation. Jeff is an expert, an engineer in computer science and has his own shop that can handle any problem, installation or whatever.
I am not sure what all he did, i was not able to be there during the tune but i noticed the problem on the way home and took it back. He played with the traction control tables as we drove down the road stopping to make adjustments but never fixed the issue. The numbers are low due to the type of dyno, they use a load bearing dyno and to my knowledge its better for tunning but give you lower numbers. It is only stock boost level. I hopre to go higher later.
Have the same experience with TC. My guy has tuned literally thousands of LS2s and was on the phone with both GM and the guys making the tuning software. Still no fix for this that I am aware of. It seems to me that I've only seen 06s have this problem and if I remember correctly there was some kind of change in the software. I can't recall. Anyway, the car's going back in the shop shortly for other work and we'll see if there's anything they can do it now.
Also, I tuned on the Dynojet at MTI and turned virtually the same numbers you did on a hot as hell humid day. Drop a line here if you find a fix. I'll do the same.
LR
I got the magnacharger tune from their factory... not an aggressive tune but they did "something" with the traction control... the motor doesn't bog down like it used to when I was NA
As "Owe5Goat" said, and "My First GTO" chimed in...I believe Jeff "Milkman" Creech is a homerun king. Jeff and CAM are doing my upgrades: Heads, Cam, Kooks, Torque Converter, a few other goodies and a Tune.
Ok, I'm not bashing any tuners, people's recommendations are fine, but like Magnified said, other people have the TC problem.
There are plenty of threads on the issue, and the recommendation to take it to another tuner may not cure the problem, just be aware of that before you take it to someone else. Other then that, if you feel uncomfortable with the guy that tuned your car, by all means, consider the recommendation of the people in this post. However, the TC thing may not be fixable at this time.
I've had the traction control problem. Space the rear ABS sensors 2 to 3mm away from the reluctor wheels. Remove the MAF screen (it's a restriction on FI motors only). Clean the MAF wires and the plug with contact cleaner.
I never had any problems with the traction control. And that's before and after the Maggie install.
Dont confuse traction control with torque management. Two different things. The TC issue is 99% of the time an install problem. Ive seen a number of people talk about messed up wires and a few others things can cause this. Check your basics. Double check the install and do some logging...make sure IAC's and TPS numbers are all in the realm of common sense.
Ive never seen a tune cause a TC issue....not saying it cant happen, just that ive never seen it.
Seems like the problem is hit and miss. Mine would/does the same thing in the higher gears. Hard accel in first and second does not turn it off but third gear and up does. Tuner tried his best to make it work in all gears but system won't fully cooperate.
Anyway, chalked it up to too much power for the TC to contend with. Still a mystery why some have luck and others not at similar power levels. :dunno:
Good luck...
I didnt read all the way through, but are you throwing any codes?
I was having a similar problem and it was an issue with the MAP sensor.(i installed it wrong)
I have seen the TC turn off first hand when tuning FI cars. I have been told that it is everything from TC settings to VE/maf table errors to having to disable certain codes. I got my car pretty good about it with some tweaking, but eventually just disabled it anyway since I never use it. It was to the point where it would not turn off any more though.
Joe
I agree with Steel Chicken, do the basics first: Check all the electrical wires for strong fittings/solder joints, check anything mechanical which was tampered with during the install. In fact, go over the install step-by-step.
Also, check the ABS reluctor ring/sensors. Jack the rear of the car up and check the sensors, making sure they're clean--no grease/grit/grime between them or the rings. Also, make sure the rings are clean.
Instinct says it's in the wiring, not so much the tune. The tune also seems way conservative, although I don't know all the details. My out of the box Magnacharger tune was 450 alone.
I agree with Steel Chicken, do the basics first: Check all the electrical wires for strong fittings/solder joints, check anything mechanical which was tampered with during the install. In fact, go over the install step-by-step.
Also, check the ABS reluctor ring/sensors. Jack the rear of the car up and check the sensors, making sure they're clean--no grease/grit/grime between them or the rings. Also, make sure the rings are clean.
Instinct says it's in the wiring, not so much the tune. The tune also seems way conservative, although I don't know all the details. My out of the box Magnacharger tune was 450 alone. While it doesn't hurt to check, I honestly don't think it is electrical/mechanical going by the description. I really think it is in the tune- seen it several times. If you roll into the throttle and/or "lug" it at the right points, it will kick off. It will also do it if you have the TC on and just lay into it and smoke the tires- it says **** this, I'm outta here and gives up lol. All that is in the tune.
Joe