1 Attachment(s) Well I was at a shop w/ a buddy today and was bored so I'd see what my stock 04 did on the dyno.
Here are my numbers on a dynojet
Stock 04, Flowmaster Catback K&N panel filter.
307.06 rwhp and 324.14rwtq
Run Conditions
56 Degrees F
I thought this was good for a baseline
Cam goes and headers go on the car in a few weeks.
I don't have a scanner btw I used my digital camera
These good numbers for a 04 a4? baseline
i would saty so. my m6 04 did 291rwhp& 308rwtq bone stock
That's VERY good HP numbers. Why is the TQ so high? Strange...
The guy who did ran the dyno was impressed too. The TQ hits peak right at 4300
I need to invest in a scanner.
I'll try to take a digital pic.
Graph Posted :)
That is pretty awesome. Of course, the actual numbers don't really mean too, too much as most dynos will read differently... but the delta between your HP and TQ numbers are interesting.
Looks like you got a monster there. :gr_devil:
It'll be cool to see what you put down on that same dyno, corrected for conditions from this baseline pull (temp, humidity, etc.) after your mods. :thumbs:
That is pretty awesome. Of course, the actual numbers don't really mean too, too much as most dynos will read differently... but the delta between your HP and TQ numbers are interesting.
Looks like you got a monster there. :gr_devil:
It'll be cool to see what you put down on that same dyno, corrected for conditions from this baseline pull (temp, humidity, etc.) after your mods. :thumbs:
Can you explain the Delta between HP and TQ numbers. I'm still fairly new to the dyno. I'm a virgin this was my first time on :)
LOL
i knew you had a freak!
had an awesome time today. i was impressed with both of our cars. i just talked to Hoover, and he was impressed with what i told him about your car. he said that was damn good, and even better going thru an A4.
Delta = fancy way to say "difference" between the two. :D
You should be proud, you have a good platform to start with here.
Mods are on order Monday Morning.
i knew you had a freak!
had an awesome time today. i was impressed with both of our cars. i just talked to Hoover, and he was impressed with what i told him about your car. he said that was damn good, and even better going thru an A4.
Dito dude, Once I get that cam in, it's on like Kong.
Delta = fancy way to say "difference" between the two. :D
You should be proud, you have a good platform to start with here.
Thanks :thumbs: I'll keep you posted on the new numbers in a few weeks. Once I get that parts in I'll start a new thread.
Mods are on order Monday Morning. You got a good dyno pull out of it... don't ruin it!
:gr_jest: J/K
Thanks :thumbs: I'll keep you posted on the new numbers in a few weeks. Once I get that parts in I'll start a new thread. Cool... look forward to seeing that.
for a stock 04 a4 thats damn amazing....your in the high m6 territory..
Yea, that's damn good for a stock A4. I came in at 289 rwhp which is about average (maybe slightly above) from what I've seen.
Nice baseline to start from :thumbs:
Nice numbers my friend
I put down a bit higher HP but almost the same torque in my stock M6 04......mine seems to run pretty well
I put down a bit higher HP but almost the same torque in my stock M6 04......mine seems to run pretty well I'm an a4 most a4 dyno really low
very nice thats a great base
Im from Weatherford. Where at in OKC do you go to? Do you know what they charge for a tune?
Hey Bear, The day I went to dyno was 40 bucks and if you wanted it tune it was 150 plus dyno time. And after that any time you need a retune it's free. Just pay for dyno time.
very nice thats a great base
The guys at the shop were very impressed as well. Another 04 m6 I believe dynod stock w/ headers on stock tune 2 more hp than me and on my tq I had I think 5 up on him.
Very strong motor for 40k on it. i'm so ready for my cam to go in.
Thanks for the info. What shop is it?
I am jealous as well, I had 299rwhp on my M6 04, you beat my torque by a few too. Makes me glad I switched over to the M6 06.
Thanks for the info. What shop is it?
The shop is Powerhouse Performance.
If you decide to head there most of us ok goat herd guys will meet ya there
That sounds awesome... I would love to meet you all in person and see your cars. I won't be able to do it untill probably the end of christmas break. ill post up a few days in advance when i figure out a time
pretty dang good... i did 299hp and 313 stock plus flowmaster cat-back and k&n panel
but it was about 97 deg. with 100%humidity in GA...
i'd like to know what my numbers would be now though

I know it's kinda putting the cart before the horse but I've removed my Maggie and plan on a larger motor in the future but for now I just think I'll go with a cam. Here's my setup and tell me what you think.
Engine: stock shortblock with a 240grind cam@50% It's got a high volume oilpump ASP UDP,160* thermostat,TFS 225's, a ported FAST intake, a ported 90mm TB, Kooks 1 7/8 " headers custom 3"exhaust with bullets and no cat's, K$N intake with a semi hardcore fresh air intake system, Custom tune,TR6 plugs for the NOS.
I would like to get a idea of what it might make N/A on a all motor tune. The cam install will be done by a vendor and the cam will be a Vindicator. (can you guess who's doing the install and tune?)
Like I said I just need some idea of where it would be in relationship to other setups.
Thanks,
BOB.
Near 500rwhp, if not a little over. Probably over.
I did a search and all the numbers on there where when Vengeance first started using that cam,also the other setups aren't quite the same as mine.

If anyone has any input as to what else I might need let me know what you think. The car has the LPE fuel pump upgrade allready.

I'm looking for north of 480hp. This is what I had with the maggie and loved the power. With a M6 and 3.91 gears I didnt need all of the low end TQ the maggie offered and I'm doing this to move the power band.
Anyone want to jump on this?
480/430 or more :D
HOPEFULLY we can break 500rwhp.. Only way to find out is to get off the internet and get that thing down here!!! :D

1 Attachment(s) Sorry for the new thread but I figured I would get more responses.
I just got the car back from the dealer for alignment and only my right rear camber is at -2.1. The left rear is at -.9. I just installed big bore and 1/2" drop springs. Why would only one side be affected that bad. Any ideas???

Do you have eccentrics? If so they could not be set properly.
What are your left and right rear ride heights? Just measure from the bottom of the rim through the center of the hub tothe painted edge of the fender. Nearest 1/8" if you can please.
How much gas in the car?
What diameter rims?
I guess your rear cradle could be way the heck and gone shifted to one side but that is a fair bit or difference L->R
Your rear cradle may be out of alignment
Sorry for the new thread but I figured I would get more responses.
I just got the car back from the dealer for alignment and only my right rear camber is at -2.1. The left rear is at -.9. I just installed big bore and 1/2" drop springs. Why would only one side be affected that bad. Any ideas???
You have more issues than rear camber but more on that later.
To start, the 1/2 inch drop springs for the rears are my favorite setup because it does not affect severely the rear cambers. Yours, however, something is going on. Did you do measurements before and after for the springs?
We need need to know what the heights are from the bottom lip of the wheel to the top of the fender well opening thru the center of the wheel. NOTE; THIS MUST BE DONE ON A VERY LEVEL GROUND. Nearly every GTO complaint i have seen on spring height after suspension work has been done, has been OK when checked on a level floor. So this is why I make this point. If the heights are off, then there is potentially a body assembly and/or a bad suspension part(s) that are damaged or not assembled correctly. Look at the rear control arm bushes carefully to see if the bolts thru the bushes appear to be "eccentric" or off centered. If the cradle was extremely off, this could cause some variations in rear camber as well. And it could be the alignment machine was not properly set up and read the rear camber in error.
If the rear suspension has a total Pedders conversion, includin all bushes, springs, shocks, and insert bush, then the control is outstanding, and your vehicle can tolerate the high negative camber settings that you have. However, having the differences in cambers in the rear is too excessive and must be resolved
Secondly, what else have you done? Something has been done with your front radius rods and not done correctly. You do not have correct caster bias. Your left side should be approx .5 less caster than your right side.
So tell us what all has been done to your suspension, and who did it. Also for the record, the only thing they did was "set the toe and let it go". Front toe was the only thing that they adjusted. Also, give us detailed information on tires, tire size and any kind of uneven wear of any kind. Also where you are in the USA
mike
dms
I didn't even notice the attachment.
Looking at it now, looks like they may not have adjusted anything from that, the total toe in front was the same before and after, so the wheel was just turned a bit, (speculation, and probably wrong) but I can't be sure.
As for the rear, adjusting the toe will change the camber a bit, but not enough to bring the rear camber in all the way.
The front caster isn't bad, it's just not to GM spec. GM wants there to be a caster split to have the cars drift right, I've set a number of cars to the GM spec, and i've also set a number of cars (including mine) to the 0 spec, and I personally prefer the 0 spec. I drive on a single lane road for about 8 miles before getting on the highway when i'm on the way to work. If it's set to GM spec it will tend to pull (a bit more than a drift) to the right, while set to 0 spec it retains a small drift due to road crown, but does not pull. On the highway (left lane at 85) it goes straight, I call it personal preference more than right or wrong.
Front toe was changed to recenter the front wheels. because the steering wheel was off centered, and that is all that they did
With the exception of setting up a suspension for roadracing, I always leave the small bias in for road crown. Our roads out on the west coast are heavily crowned, and this avoids guys complaining of drifts while driving. Again, just a preference. but I would assume this GTO has a strong drift to the right, especially on hard accel
I would not ever set up a GTO with the biases in rear camber as seen on this vehicle.
mike
dms
I would not ever set up a GTO with the biases in rear camber as seen on this vehicle.
mike
dms agreed
either you have a problem, or the RR head was not on the wheel correctly.
OK... I went and took the measurements. Our is pretty dang level so that shouldn't be a factor.
Spring Measurement (Done with a 1/2 tank of gas):
Front Driver 23" (584 mm)
Front Pass 22 7/8" (581)
Rear Driver 22 3/4" (577.85 mm)
Rear Pass 22 3/4" (577.85 mm)
Tires (BFG G-Force Sports 245/45/17). Tires have even tire wear.
Suspension Upgrades:
Front Radius Rods
HD Endlinks
Strut Mounts
GSR Struts
2151 Springs
Diff Insert
X-Members
Big Bores
2643 Springs
I have not done a cradle alignment. I did the street I package about 7 months ago, but I wanted to do sway bars so I didn't do it. My dad and I did the install following the knowledge base entries and the manuals in the suspension/brake sticky.
I live in Phoenix. If you guys aren't sure I'll probably head over to Anthems since there are having a Pedders Day on the 15th.
I'd hit up anthem for a cradle alignment, you can have the bars installed at the same time and kill 2 birds with one stone.
May I ask what's the 'cradle' on this car, and how it's aligned?? Can't visualize what it is. My car is stock still, but just curious; just gathering information for a future 'Pedderization'. Thanks.
JC
The cradle is what attaches the suspension to the unibody of the car. Everything bolts to it, and it bolts to the unibody of the car, so any play/looseness/slop will effect the handling of the car.

Just wondering what a stock LS2 flows in cfm or lbs/min... I'm trying to see if I could match up some OEM turbo's from Mitsubishi to help avoid some costs.
You should be able to calculate the airflow of a 6.0L motor. You already know the displacement, 6.0L, now you need to fix the rpm and volumetric efficiency, and do a little math.
Give me the VE... I've done it before with assuming the VE was .85 at 4400.. just looking for someone to double check.
PS:I don't have any tuning software as of yet.