Who's the most knowlegable member when it comes to the LS2 Mods and Performance? Who is the "Go-To Man"
Just ask anyone and they'll give you two or three different answers. The best thing to do is ask your question and take the answer that is given the most and sounds reasonable. Then you still only have a 50/50 chance of success. 95% of the people on here are just hobbiest the 5% that are "real mechanics" will show up once in awhile.
ME.....I'm just a hobbiest.
95% of the people on here are just hobbiest the 5% that are "real mechanics" will show up once in awhile. Thats fine I listen to about 1% of all real mechanics anyway, even less over the Internet :nuts:
The first person that responds to my posted thread that has done what I am asking about IN THEIR SIG.
Suspension=Any screen name with Pedders in the avatar.
BlackGTOsleeper gets my vote.
anyone who scams other members.
I've noticed that Svede is pretty active on this board and comes across like he knows his stuff. My .02
depends i guess. theres quite a few members that are knowledgeable.
i pull alot of my information from alot of different members and then piece it together...
you ask me about offset and sizes, i can give you the basics, you ask me about Monaro conversions i will know a bit more
stolenfox for exhausts, i always trust black devil's advice.
BlackGTOsleeper gets my vote. ++1
GRFPerformance.
stolenfox for exhausts, i always trust black devil's advice. Thank you my friend! And yes Kurt aka "BlackDevil" is the man.
S.F.
Anyone who has tits in their avatar.
I do love Tits...
Anyone who has tits in their avatar. :thumbs:
Do I get double points (one for each of them) since I'm actually married to her?
S.F.
My votes are Padre and Jed.Only
:thumbs:
Do I get double points (one for each of them) since I'm actually married to her?
S.F. YOU...got my vote! :thumbs::thumbs:
lol
There are several guys on here and mistermike is being modest.
There are several guys on here and mistermike is being modest. agreed.. Mike has helped me a few times
Depends on what kind of performance. There are several members on here with their own general area of expertise. Mistermike, StolenFox, Black Devil, EDC, Chuck@HPE, any of the Pedders guys, etc. All these guys know their stuff.
1insanegto....
If you want to know how to get down a track quickly, Perdieu is your man.
agreed.. Mike has helped me a few times I bounce ideas off Mike as well, knowledgable guy.
EdC
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Suspension = Frank (myfirstgto) but hes not here much anymore ...
Cam = Chuck @ HPE and the guys from Texas Speed
Boost = Peter@APS or the AZPS guys
Tires = will these fit ??? doesnt matter because everyone keeps asking anyway.
Black Devil aka Kurt.
There are quite a few people on this board with alot of knowledge. Al have great points, and specialties.
Thanks for the props fellas. But I just try to pass on what I learn. Even if it's when I @#$% up. :shiner: :thumbs:
BTW SF, those certainly are pretty puppies you've got there. :D
Black Devil aka Kurt. :ftw:

Okay, so I installed my cam and got a tune and the car isn't making the power it should be making for my mods and at 5700 and on, the power drops off dramatically so I am going in to try and figure out what is wrong. My tuner said that it has to be a valvetrain problem most likely.
Springs can't handle it? Got Patriot Extreme .660 lift springs, my cam is a .630/.610 lift, that's check
Pushrods are 7.400 hardened pushrods
Now my tuner said my valvetrain was abnormally loud and that I should take a look at the springs as once they heat cycle you need to retorque them down.
So right now I have the valvecovers off and I was thinking what I should do, just take the rockers out again and rebolt them to make sure or just set the torque wrench at 22lbs/ft and go again.
Heres my problem, when retorquing them down, the torque wrench will click and then they are torqued to that specific correct? However, if I continue to torque, the bolt still screws/turns, should it be doing this if it's torqued at the right specs? Should I go back and redo the whole setup because some may be OVER torqued if I keep on torquing when the wrench has clicked.
Sorry to be an ass, but you installed your own cam and don't know how to use a torque wrench? Maybe you should have left such an install to a professional. The only thing you can do on this car without knowing how to use a torque wrench is an oil change.
When it clicks, it's torqued to 22lb/ft. If you turn it beyond the click, you've over torqued it. Go back and do it again.
Makes me wonder what other things are going to be wrong with your install.
Stop turning, you are over torquing. I don't think a few pounds more will hurt too much, but you can and will break bolts over torquing. How did you install the cam without knowing how to use the wrench right?
hey, hard,
what you torque is the bolt holding the rocker arms down. and yes, once the torque wrench clicks, you have reached the set torque.
if your tuner said it is unusually loud, it might be you have short push rods.
our cams make more noise than OEM, but that noise is different from the clatter light preload makes.
just re-torque all of them. if you still have the noise, you should get a push rod length checker and check the length you need.
hope this helps, and let me know.
Go back and loosen the bolts and retorque them to 22 lb/ft. After you have heat cycled the engine awhile recheck torque. DO NOT OVER TORQUE..! It's easy to do as they feel as if they should be tighter,but not all bolts need to be torqued to hell and back to be tight enough. Everyone makes mistakes and the bolts on a old SBC and their torque are different than todays cars with aluminum and plastic parts. The biggest key is use a TQ wrench that has been calibrated and is up to date.
did you do a head swap or just the springs, etc.?
sure you lined up the gears properly when you swapped the cam? (I'm assuming you didn't degree the cam and just went for dot to dot).
who made the cam? what are the specs on it?
overtorquing the rocker arms a little isn't gonna cause your power to magically drop off at 5700 rpms.
I think everything's been said. Once it clicks, it is torqued. Anymore and you've over-torqued.
We did the usual "dot to dot" install for the came, we will be checking everything else from there on out.
Cam install was done by myself and 2 other people who have done cam installs before.
I reinstalled/retorqued the rocker bolts to the 22ft/lbs so the rocker bolts/springs should be no reason for the drop/not producing of power.
Other things to check would be the pushrod length, I have 7.400 hardened pushrods in there. The other thing that we may need to check if we need to degree the cam instead of just "dot to dot"
Did you degree the cam? Im betting not. Thats required. I totally applaud DIY, but get some help, and dont be afraid to admit when you are over your head. If you cant run a click stick, you cant install a cam.
ninja edit: ok, you had help, thats good. but never go dot to dot, ever, unless thats what the degree wheel tells you to do. Always degree a cam.
Law of the Land= " ALWAYS DEGREE A CAM" (excellent advise on your part Konnie the Goat). All parts are built within an acceptable tolerance and the only way to properly verify the cam is installed where the manufacturer says it should be is to degree it. Some "short-cutters" will insist it makes no difference and then be the first to complain when the cam doesn't perform as expected. Bottom line is if you degree it ,you KNOW where it is installed at , rather than THINKING it is OK.
Hehe, gimme my torque wrench back before you break it!
Hehe, gimme my torque wrench back before you break it! Give me my damn 1/2 deep socket!!!! lol :slap:
The 22ftlbs is done with the rocker stands bottomed. If the stands and rockers are not bottomed out, something is VERY wrong. It sounds like the pushrod length needs to be rechecked. If you were just referring to bolt stretch after the 22ftlbs, then all that will do is break bolts, not change lifter preload. Definitely RECHECK EVERYTHING.
Your springs should be fine, pushrod lentgh sounds about right, I wouldn't waste your time degreeing the cam either. Nice to check but I've never ever found a cam that was off from a reputable cam company and I've checked alot of them.
It's more than likely in your tune. Have you had it on a dyno with a wide band?
Rockers should be tightened with the lifter on the cam base circle for the specific rocker you are tightening. Tightening beyond the required value does nothing other than further load the threads in your aluminum head and provide more preload in the bolt. It won't change the rocker geometry of a fixed fulcrum rocker. Also, turning beyond the "click" may alter the calibration of your torque wrench. If you are simply following LS1howto and tightening them all down at once, those instructions are wrong. Below is the correct GM procedure. Other things to check:
1. Check the wipe pattern.
2. Measure the pushrod length requirement with an adjustable pushrod
3. Follow the below procedure as set up by GM, there is a reason for doing it this way (lifters on cam base circle).

I bought the GMM race shifter from a member on here, but I was wondering if anybody knew the size of the bolt that came with the GMM shifter(the guy I bought it from did not have this bolt). I know its 5mm, but I dont know the length, thread count or anything else.
Does anybody know the bolt size that came with the GMM shifter?
if you are talking about the bolts for the base, they are allen 6mm. the length escapes my memory. i used two of the allen for the two holes closer to you, and used hex bolts for the two (hardest ones) closer to the radio. if i find the info, i will post it here.
you can probably do a search on gmm install, and you will probably find it. that is how i found the info on using hex instead of the allen for the ones closer to the radio.
good luck!
if you are talking about the bolts for the base, they are allen 6mm. the length escapes my memory. i used two of the allen for the two holes closer to you, and used hex bolts for the two (hardest ones) closer to the radio. if i find the info, i will post it here.
you can probably do a search on gmm install, and you will probably find it. that is how i found the info on using hex instead of the allen for the ones closer to the radio.
good luck!
Thanks for the reply, but I got what I needed from JHP.

Here ya go!
:thumbs:

Bob
How about a 3.73 package?
and whats a 3rd member?
Must resist temtation to buy 3.91's.......Must resist temtation to buy 3.91's.......Must resist temtation to buy 3.91's.......
How about a 3.73 package? Would love to, But we are currently out of them.
Must resist temtation to buy 3.91's.......Must resist temtation to buy 3.91's.......Must resist temtation to buy 3.91's....... LOL
Did I mention if you buy a gear and Kaaz unit, it will come with a $50 gift card and a T-Shirt too? :)
Resistance is Futile!! :thumbs:
Bob
LOL
Did I mention if you buy a gear or Kaaz unit, it will come with a $50 gift card and a T-Shirt too? :)
Resistance is Futile!! :thumbs:
Bob Lets just say a "friend" would like a price quote for a 3.91 package.
lol... Tell your friend it's on Special for $620. You will need a Minor install kit that is $95. Shipping is free. :)
Bob
Can't wait to install that Kaaz.
how many left? :thumbs:
All Kaaz units sold... But we have a gearset left. I'll honor the price today if someone wants to jump on it. :)
Bob
727-233-1195
oh goodness.....I may have to do this
Hell with it ... Im calling you in a few minutes...
Sounds good!
Well boys. the last set of gears is now mine ... Thanks a lot to Bob. Great guy to talk to, i probably wasted about 10 minutes of his time just shooting the breeze about cams and junk... will definitely do business with them again.
Damn you,Evil :cursin:. I just caught this. I'm dying to get some 3.91 gears!!
How about a Christmas sale when you restock? $620 +$95 is a sweet deal. I'd jump on it if you "find" a set lying around.:hail:
count me in as well - just saw this thread - would like to do it with a comp cam 224/232 or 228/232 (something like that). I figure with the 3.91 gears, all that extra headroom (HP) will be available in lower RPMs, and I'll have a "lot" of fun :)