UPDATE SEE POST #32 I am trying to remove the #4 exhaust valve spring retainer. Last Friday night while out driving around, I almost dropped the valve.
The valve has pulled down into the retainer. Now I can't get the retainer off. The locks and the valve stem are sunk in the retainer. I have tried compressing the spring a little, a little more and all the way. All while trying to tap the retainer back down, driving the valve back up out the top of the retainer. It hasn't budged.
Any ideas?
Tom
cut the spring if you are changing it :thumbs:
cut the spring if you are changing it :thumbs: Currently I don't have a spare spring. I could order one. But not too sure how much help it would be to have the spring out.
Keep the ideas coming!!
Tom
I'm assuming you had the #4 piston all the way up when you compressed the spring?
That retainer is thrashed! Compress, and try to use some needle nose pliers, play with the valve a little, see if you can wiggle it up...have a magnet ready, maybe you'll get lucky and catch a lock.
I'm assuming you had the #4 piston all the way up when you compressed the spring?
That retainer is thrashed! Compress, and try to use some needle nose pliers, play with the valve a little, see if you can wiggle it up...have a magnet ready, maybe you'll get lucky and catch a lock. I didn't bring the piston to TDC. I did air the cylinder to float the valve. I can't get to the tip of the valve to grab it. It's recessed into the retainer and with the locks and valve stuck down in the retainer.
Also, the spring compressor that I am using is the two claw with the knob on top, this doesn't give me much room at all to work around the tool.
Keep the ideas coming!
Tom
I didn't bring the piston to TDC. I did air the cylinder to float the valve. I can't get to the tip of the valve to grab it. It's recessed into the retainer and with the locks and valve stuck down in the retainer.
Also, the spring compressor that I am using is the two claw with the knob on top, this doesn't give me much room at all to work around the tool.
Keep the ideas coming!
Tom that sucks! try getting your hands on the crane compressor...much better tool. If that doesn't work...you might have to do some surgery.
Cover the surronding area around the spring with oiled down rags and cut the retainer with a dremel tool cutoff wheel. Try and direct as much of the metal coming off the cutoff wheel in a direction away from the head towards the fender so it doesn't end up in the head. The oiled down rags will catch the metal dust as well. The rags don't have to be dripping oil. It will be messy but you should be able to cut it off without damaging the valve.
As deformed as that retainer is, I doubt you will get it off by beating on it and you may damage the valve stem or valve guide by bearing on it.
that sucks, dude!
A Crane Valve Spring compressor and perhaps a dremel abrasive wheel to cut the spring. Try to keep about 90 psi of air in the cylinder to keep that valve closed tight. I afraid the retainer along with the spring will be toast but don't give up.
Patriot Performance, sponser on the left has some very good valve springs with Ti retainers, etc..
Take your time, eat some Turkey and all will work out.
This may sound a little brutal, but it may work.
Get yourself a dead blow mallet. (lead shot inside a rubber mallet)
Bring the cylinder up to TDC or at least "near" TDC
Take a few good whacks. It may free things up just enough to where you can put the spring tool back on it and get it apart. Old heads that I've taken apart to do valve jobs on occasionally have a sticky retainer that'd pop loose using this method.
This may sound a little brutal, but it may work.
Get yourself a dead blow mallet. (lead shot inside a rubber mallet)
Bring the cylinder up to TDC or at least "near" TDC
Take a few good whacks. It may free things up just enough to where you can put the spring tool back on it and get it apart. Old heads that I've taken apart to do valve jobs on occasionally have a sticky retainer that'd pop loose using this method.
or feed a yard or so of speaker wire into the sparkplug hole, then rotate to TDC...
Hey guys,
Thanks for all the really good ideas. I thought about airing up the cylinder and then placing a socket on the retainer, and smack the crap out of it. But I am worried that I may drive the retainer down far enough to dislodge the stem, and release the locks. If that happens, will the spring grenade out?
Or I have thought about cutting the retainer off. But same issue, will the spring blast off?
Tom
I did have some nylon rope in the cylinder and piston on TDC, but removed it to air the cylinder to float the valve.
Tom
yes, the spring will have alot of pressure on it. you really need one person with the crane tool and the other with a socket and hammer...
If there was a way to compress the spring without pressing down on the retainer. That would relieve the pressure on the retainer, and then I could tap the retainer back down around the valve stem.
But the only way I know to do this would be to cut the spring out. But if I have to cut, why not just cut the retainer off?
I think I'll try a socket on it and hit it with a hammer first.
Tom
I doubt seriously that you'll have to worry about a spring flying off and killing a small child riding by on a Big Wheel.
Assuming your springs are OEM, the free length of the spring is 2.082" with an installed height of 1.80".
The spring is compressed just a smidge over a quarter inch.
The open seat pressure is only 76lbs.
I've done this "trick" on old school BBC heads running K motion valve springs with over 200lbs of seat pressure.
I think you'll be ok giving it a few whacks with the ol rubber mallet.
Plug the oil drain holes with rags or paper towels. When they do come apart the Locks have a nasty habit of trying to go to the one place that you don't want them to.
Good luck.
I doubt seriously that you'll have to worry about a spring flying off and killing a small child riding by on a Big Wheel.
Assuming your springs are OEM, the free length of the spring is 2.082" with an installed height of 1.80".
The spring is compressed just a smidge over a quarter inch.
The open seat pressure is only 76lbs.
I've done this "trick" on old school BBC heads running K motion valve springs with over 200lbs of seat pressure.
I think you'll be ok giving it a few whacks with the ol rubber mallet.
Plug the oil drain holes with rags or paper towels. When they do come apart the Locks have a nasty habit of trying to go to the one place that you don't want them to.
Good luck. The springs are Comp 921's.
Good idea on pluging the oil drain holes.
Thanks, Tom
How did this happen in the first place?
How did this happen in the first place?
I had the cam, springs, retainers, locks, push rods, maggie, clutch, shifter, and fuel pump installed about 1,000 miles ago. I was careful to allow for "break in". Last Friday night I decided to drive the car hard. A few burn outs hard runs. Pulled over to turn around, and the car was running rough. I limped it home and it threw a code P0308 misfire cylinder #4.
Tom
I had a similar issue with Comp springs and steel retainers on a GTP. However, I got the spring off of the car and then worked on it for a while until it popped off. Tight clearances, corrosion, or both seemed to be the cause. I went with titanium retainers from then on and never had an issue.
I wish I had better advice and wish you the best of luck. Don't forget to stop tomorrow and eat turkey!
I had a similar issue with Comp springs and steel retainers on a GTP. However, I got the spring off of the car and then worked on it for a while until it popped off. Tight clearances, corrosion, or both seemed to be the cause. I went with titanium retainers from then on and never had an issue.
I wish I had better advice and wish you the best of luck. Don't forget to stop tomorrow and eat turkey!
Oops... forgot to mention, these are Titanium retainers and Super 7 locks.
I'll be back at it tonight, after work.
Tom
I don't know exactly what the "Crane tool" is but if it's a lever stlye compressor, you can probably use that.
Put a ton of nylon rope in the cylinder so that the piston is pushing up on the valve tightly. Have a friend hold the crank from rotating, and then using a lever tool, pry down very firmly on the retainer. I'd assume you should be able to dislodge it. If not, then try the socket.
The air is not going to give you enough force on the valve...and you don't just want to clang it against the top of the piston. Try filling the cylinder real ful and having a buddy hold the crank. That should do it. I'd think.
I doubt seriously that you'll have to worry about a spring flying off and killing a small child riding by on a Big Wheel.
Assuming your springs are OEM, the free length of the spring is 2.082" with an installed height of 1.80".
The spring is compressed just a smidge over a quarter inch.
The open seat pressure is only 76lbs.
I've done this "trick" on old school BBC heads running K motion valve springs with over 200lbs of seat pressure.
I think you'll be ok giving it a few whacks with the ol rubber mallet.
Plug the oil drain holes with rags or paper towels. When they do come apart the Locks have a nasty habit of trying to go to the one place that you don't want them to.
Good luck.
i've used that trick as well on anything from a CA18DET nissan head to LS1 heads with Comp 921 springs and it works just fine if you don't have the right tools handy...
Pull the head, cut the spring, and then cut the valve stem. Get a new valve, spring, seats, and locks. You're probably going to need to replace the valve anyways, so do it right the first time.
Put the nylon rope back in the cylinder and bring to TDC. The rope is soft and will prevent damage. The retainer is trash, use a socket on the retainer and hit it with a hammer a few times to see if you can break the retainer from the lock. If the retainer has started to fail around the lock, you my be SOL. If you do get it off, you need to check the valve stem very carefully or as recommended above pull the head and replace the valve. For something like this to happen, you must have lost valve control.
Here's the way I look at it... You are misfiring on that cylinder, which means most likely your valve isn't closing. I doubt the valve isn't closing just because of the retainer situation. It still clearly has seat pressure. You probably bent a valve, and the retainer situation is because of that. The only way to make sure your valve is okay, is by pulling the head and inspecting the valve. The likelyhood of the valve stem being in good shape after your little operation is rather slim IMHO. So, even in the odd chance that the valve stem ends up being okay, you can then chance it to see if it runs okay, or verify that the valve is still in good shape.
I have beat on that retainer with a dead blow hammer. I put the rope in, and have resorted to using a dremmel to cut the lip off the retainer. I am out of cut off wheels, and my daughters have arrived from out of town. I don't see any way that the valve could be "OK" after all the banging, etc.
I see upgraded heads in my very near future! Now the question, which ones will work best with my mods?
Tom
I have beat on that retainer with a dead blow hammer. I put the rope in, and have resorted to using a dremmel to cut the lip off the retainer. I am out of cut off wheels, and my daughters have arrived from out of town. I don't see any way that the valve could be "OK" after all the banging, etc.
I see upgraded heads in my very near future! Now the question, which ones will work best with my mods?
Tom Check your Email soon. ;)
Check your Email soon. ;)
Email replied to!
Tom

Well we got the clutch in, tranny in, shifter, and driveshaft in last night. Today I got the midpipes and stock exhaust all bolted up and finished some odds and ends to make it good.
Anywho long story short I have a clutch bleed line extension deal. I had a hose company here make it. It's leaking when I push the clutch in. Luckily it seems to only be leaking at the very end where the speed bleeder is. Where the whole bleeder assembly screws into the rest of the tube. Both are brass fitments from what I can tell (goldish color). I tried tigtening it, but it just slowed the leaking down some. So I figured I'd take it off and rounded the outside off.
First I have to figure out how to get that end out w/out ruining the hose because I don't want to pull the tranny again. Second, when I get a new bleed valve to put in, what can I use to seal it so it won't leak? Will teflon tape work?
I'm so close to getting this car done now; but yet so far away. It all works I think because I get good disengagement when I push it in the first time, but the second time it's hard to get out of gera and then I can't get it back in. It's sucking air in and I think there.
Any help would be appreciated.
The proper way is to have the bleed nipple seal on the front taper.
So the female fitting should have an internal machined sealing surface which is the same taper as the bleed nipple.
They seal metal to metal on these tapers.
i don't have that so I need another way.
Well you can't seal it on the male threads (with PTFE tape or sealant) because fluid will just come up the inside of the nipple and out the hole in the end.
I can't see any alternative to having a female end fitting and sealing the bleed nipple on the tapers as per design.
I think I confused you with my description. I have a standard bleed valve that seals with the angled cuts. That however connects to the tubing via a normal threaded part. So the whole bleed "assembly" screws into a peice on the hose. I need that to seal. The actual nipple part is working as its suppose to.
I think I confused you with my description. Yes you did. :eek2:
I have a standard bleed valve that seals with the angled cuts. That however connects to the tubing via a normal threaded part. So the whole bleed "assembly" screws into a peice on the hose. I need that to seal. The actual nipple part is working as its suppose to. OK so what does the "bleed assembly" to hose connection look like ?
Maybe someone has screwed the pooch and not used the correct mating parts. If one piece has an "angled cut" on the end and the other doesn't then there is your problem.
The hose will most likely end with an AN fitting which has an internal sealing cone.....the male part of the "bleed assembly" needs a matching taper to seal against that cone.
that's the problem.... so how do I make two "straight" threads seal. I really don't have the means to remove the tranny again.
Think I've found a likely scenario.
Hose would most likely end with a female AN fitting.
The "bleeder assembly" would most likely end with a male SAE fitting.
They may be matched size for size so they screw together....but they will not seal because the AN taper is 37 degrees and the SAE taper is 45 degrees. (See the attached pictures.)
If this is the case....the simple solution would be to put the "bleeder assembly" in a lathe and carefully sharpen the male end up to 37 degrees so that it matches the sealing angle in the hose end.
Just look at the pictures.
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...ings/index.php

I have been in contact with the people from I-Charger a couple times over the past 2 weeks or so. I have been inquiring about a kit for our GTO's. They have been getting back to me rather quickly and have been rather informative. THey asked me to post this info to fill you guys in.
They said if anyone has any questions, feel free to contact them. They are looking to get involved on the board, so hopefully you all will see them posting soon. Here is the email i recieved.....
Hi John ,

Noticed your posting on the forum, we have approached the moderators to become sponsors, this prior to our communications, for your's and the forum members I will endeavour to give you an overview on design, development, Patent, current prototypes and applications with expected future direction, plus a breif on Mueller and the Richwood Group of companies, by all means please post this.
Mueller Engineering (Andrew) is the designer, developer and engineering behind the "Integrated" Concept, Richwood Group of companies holds the Patents and Intellectual properties world wide, all Companies under the Corporate umbrella are solely owned by the Mueller Family.
Mueller Engineering has been involved in the design, application, proving and production of superchargers for the past 28 years, our focus has been primarily with screw superchargers, which have only now gained recognition for there attributes, many if not all OEM's and performance companies are seeing the advantages, hence the current explosion and keen interest in screw compressors or twin screw's as they are called.

The Integrated concept has been in existence for some 12 plus years, applications for In Valley and Inverted have already been released to the market, we further released the In Valley for big block Hemi in early 05, with an overwhelming response, a number of OEM's and aftermarket performance houses already use our design.
The term " I - Charger " steems from integrated supercharger, it is our trade mark for the product.
The timing for the "Integrated" is now, the market and general perception is leaning towards a well designed, packaged product that works, not a band aid solution for a quick buck as with some of our competitors.
The Integrated concept incorporates the rotor housing, plenum and discharge ports into one compact housing and casting, this further incorporates intercooloing, both block and or bar type depending on plenum restrictions or confines, the three main areas of designation are "Inverted" , "In Valley", and "In Line", thou the concept can be equally applied to any internal combustion engine, single cylinder thru 16 or larger.

"Inverted".
Designed for the modern modular V type engines, 6 thru 16 cylinder, the rotor assemble is placed on the underside or bottom of the manifold, pressurizing to an upper plenum and port runner, this avails both longer port length and available areas to incorporate intercooling, the intake runner (top bonnet) acts as a placement area for your throttle body, an air venturi and its underside as a diffuser to distribute air evenly within the plenum, sizes dependant on engine and boost requirement, available from 1.5 litres to 5 litres per revolution.

"In Valley".
Originally conceived for the big block V type push rod engine family, the rotors are incorporated into the upper portion of the housing exhausting into a lower plenum and port runner, designed to fit within the confines of the head and block, utilising the overall parameters of the given space available, all being no taller than a standard 4 barrel manifold, it can be run equally on carb (wet) or with injectors over port and throttle body, sizes ranging from 2.0 to 5 litre .

" In Line".
Catering to the in line engine families, small 4 cylinder or 6, both petrol or larger diesel applications are all encompassed, this again uses the "Integrated" Concept, incorporating the rotor housing, manifold and port runner as one compact unit, with certain diesel applications the engine mount come housing, come intercooler is also one piece. Sizes ranging from 220cc to 12 litre.

Applications currently are;

Ford;
Modular. 4.6 and 5.4, V8 ( 2, 3 and 4 Valve)
Modular. 6.8 , V10 ( 2 & 3 Valve)
Focus ( duratec ) ( Zetec under construction)
Windsor 5.0 ( injected ) upper plenum only
Big Block ( push rod )
V V T I 6 cylinder in line ( Australia - Euro only) generic base.
Flat Head V8 ( 8BA & 24 stud ) generic base, Screw, GM & B&M applications
Flat Head V12 Lincoln, generic base, GM & B&M, single and twin arrangements.

General Motors;
LS series, Gen 3,4 , 5.3 (truck) , Car. 5.7, 6.0, & 7.0
Small block & LT 305 thru 427 ( injected )
Alloytec V6
Big Block ( push rod )

Chrysler;
Hemi 5.7 and 6.1 ( modular )
Hemi (push rod, 426, 472, 528 )
Viper V10 ( gen 1 thru 3 )

Toyota;
V V T i V8 ( 4.0, 4.3, 4.5, 4.7, 5.0 ) Cruiser, Tundra, Lexus, etc
1UZ-FE V8 ( 4.0, generic base only )

Other Makes;
Mercedes V12 (quad rotor)
Falconer V12 (quad rotor)
Hino 6 in line ( diesel )
Cummins 6 in line ( diesel )
VW & Audi 4 cylinder In line.( petrol )

Further to the outlined applications or designations the Patent encompasses, single ( 1 pair) , two pair ( quad rotor ) and three pair ( triple rotor ) combinations, these either right hand or left hand screw, depending on application, desired boost and manifold confines.
Other encompassments are intercooling, both bar and block type, again dependant on manifold layout and confines.
Richwood holds Patents for the design and concept world wide, we have PCT ( world priority) , General Patent ( AU, USA, Euro, Asia, India), Innovation Patent (AU).
If you or any members have questions about our product, please by all means call or email.

Kind Regards
Andrew Mueller
CEO / Managing Director
Richwood Group
+61-7-5464-0503 (office)
+61-407-448-414 ( Andrew cell )
info@i-charger.com
a little birdie told me that this concept is what GM is going to be useing with the new cts-v and some other lines (aka tvs). kinda like how the XLR-v has currently with the inverted supercharger.
Looks very nice.
Are there any pictures anywhere of this blower?
Sounds impressive!
i like! pics...?
Gotta see some pics and will it fit under the hood of the '04-06' GTO?
the emails said it will fit for the GTO. Let me try and find some pics....
3 Attachment(s) blowers...
:eek2:wow! that is beautiful. inverted body here i come!
How are they intercooled?
when are these suppose to come out?>any idea
when are these suppose to come out?>any idea From that email it sounded like they are already available...... the question is where do you get it..... any sponsors ever dealt with them????
Those do look nice!
If anyone ever offers a viable twin screw for our application I'll go back to FI. I almost bought a ATI this week but didnt. I would like to have a SC with 22psi of boost on a forged short block. The word MONSTER comes to mind...! I've even thought about putting a KB in the GTO. I dont care if I have to cut on the firewall and if it didnt fit under the stock hood then it gives me a excuse to get the DMS cowl hood.
Hmmm looks very interesting. I want to see more!!!
OWE5Goat,
I have no affiliation with them, but i will try to answer what i can as i have spoken with them. IF my info is incorrect, its my fault and i apologize.
Intercooling is offered. YOu can pick intercooled or not. They have both.
GOAT,
the impression i got was that they already have blowers and such made. they are already being sold for some cars, but the GTO kit isnt out yet. DOnt know if it is close to being finished or already done. I will try to find a date for you, or at least some more info on our cars.
any of u have questions u want me to ask, post them.
want.
If anyone ever offers a viable twin screw for our application I'll go back to FI. I almost bought a ATI this week but didnt. I would like to have a SC with 22psi of boost on a forged short block. The word MONSTER comes to mind...! I've even thought about putting a KB in the GTO. I dont care if I have to cut on the firewall and if it didnt fit under the stock hood then it gives me a excuse to get the DMS cowl hood. I have been contemplating the same idea. When I ran across the add in the PRI magazine, and thought I may have found a viable solution to building "THE MONSTER" under the stock hood and strut tower brace. Let's hope the i-charger doesn't turn out bad. If I can get my hands on one I would try it. I would like to get more information on their product first.
I really hope they are not passing the inline and inverted designs off as thier own. The inline piece is actually the Powerworks Supercharger kit for th Zetec Focus ( www.powerworks.net) that has been on the market since 2004. The inverted design is actually the Saleen supercharger kit for the 2005+ Mustang ( http://www.saleen.com/SC101_Services...0-1607-B11313*). If they are passing these off as thier designs and patented by them, they are lying. I know, I was involved in the development and calibration of the Powerworks kit. It uses a Eaton M62 blower, not a twin screw and there are no liscence fees being paid to anyone for this design. THe Saleen uses Lysholm rotors.
Jersey
what kind of $$$$ we lookin at???
Just so everyone is brought up to date. We have decided to apply for a sponsoring position on the Forum. When that is done we will openly answer all your questions. Until then we are honoring the nonsponsor rule and will not promote the units. Andrew, as was posted by JohnnyGTO will answer all questions. The company holds patent's and IP's which are public knowledge and can be found on the correct web sites and who has used our designs. But not on this forum until we become a sponsor. There are many people who pay for the privlige of being able to talk openly and many very talanted and hard working Supercharger companies out there both on an off the forums. Each has strengths and weakness's and should be looked at on it's merits. Johnny Does not work for the company and was just passing along an answer he recieved at our web site. Give us a bit to get things in place here at the here forum then we will answer your questions.
Thank You
Bob
Just so everyone is brought up to date. We have decided to apply for a sponsoring position on the Forum. When that is done we will openly answer all your questions. Until then we are honoring the nonsponsor rule and will not promote the units. Andrew, as was posted by JohnnyGTO will answer all questions. The company holds patent's and IP's which are public knowledge and can be found on the correct web sites and who has used our designs. But not on this forum until we become a sponsor. There are many people who pay for the privlige of being able to talk openly and many very talanted and hard working Supercharger companies out there both on an off the forums. Each has strengths and weakness's and should be looked at on it's merits. Johnny Does not work for the company and was just passing along an answer he recieved at our web site. Give us a bit to get things in place here at the here forum then we will answer your questions.
Thank You
Bob Oh Goody:gr_devil:
Subscribing... like the sounds of this...
Definitely going to keep tabs on this - sounds vuurry interesting ....
Interesting indeed!
Very cool :thumbs:
sweet. keeping an eye on this as well
it looks like the ZR-1 is using an inverted type
Just so everyone is brought up to date. We have decided to apply for a sponsoring position on the Forum. When that is done we will openly answer all your questions. Until then we are honoring the nonsponsor rule and will not promote the units. Andrew, as was posted by JohnnyGTO will answer all questions. The company holds patent's and IP's which are public knowledge and can be found on the correct web sites and who has used our designs. But not on this forum until we become a sponsor. There are many people who pay for the privlige of being able to talk openly and many very talanted and hard working Supercharger companies out there both on an off the forums. Each has strengths and weakness's and should be looked at on it's merits. Johnny Does not work for the company and was just passing along an answer he recieved at our web site. Give us a bit to get things in place here at the here forum then we will answer your questions.
Thank You
Bob Ahhh, good to see you post. I cant believe the shit i got for volunteering some info. People instanly on guard as if i was in on some scam. Dont get me wrong, everybody should watch their asses and be skeptical.... but going after someone who just informs the board of the release of an at-present unavailable piece of equipment.

I want to redo my front bmpr the only problem is I do not want to spend the 1400 for the monaro, bmpr from austrailia. I actually wanted to customize my stock bmpr to fit the monaro emblem. No Good. Need to know if there is a bmpr out there that comes without the indentation of the pontiac symbol and if there is who makes it.?????????????????
You can always put this ugly a$$ front bumper on your car
Or you could just have a body shop take off the Pontiac emblem and get rid of the indentation.
Cannot remove the indentation. I was looking at the RK sport bmpr sold by gravanna. I do not think it has the indentation in it!!!!!
Cannot remove the indentation. :bs:
Well, how I would go about doing this would be to sand down the indentation to the same plane as the rest of the bumper, then get some plastic adhesive/filler (such as Maxim from your local paint supplier) fill and sand it down, redrill the holes, blend the basecoat then clear the whole bumper. The problem is with someone who hasn't done something like this before is sanding the crest in the bumper and actually getting the line straight AND sanding plastic is kind of a bitch. If you don't do paint work, then you can send it off to a paint shop for finishing.
I have taken it to 3 different shops and nobody wants to attempt to do it, because everyone is afarid of the flex problem if someone was to hit my front bmpr. What to do!!!!!!!!!!
I have taken it to 3 different shops and nobody wants to attempt to do it, because everyone is afarid of the flex problem if someone was to hit my front bmpr. What to do!!!!!!!!!!
Keep looking for a body shop that says yes? I'm sure there are way more than 3 in your area, chances are you'll find someone who will do it.
I really don't understand how what you want would be any different from the factory bumper as far as flexing/cracking ...
Oh, by the way - is there a reason you just cannot type the U and E in bUmpEr? Does it save that much time typing?
I have to get the bumper shaved down, and the problem is the mold in where the pontiac symobol is has to get filled so I can put the monaro symbol in the place of where the pontiac symbol is. I really want to keep my bumper, but I just want to change the symbol to monaro, and the body shops I trust and not to willing to help, anybody try this or is willing to help me????????????
I have to get the bumper shaved down, and the problem is the mold in where the pontiac symobol is has to get filled so I can put the monaro symbol in the place of where the pontiac symbol is. I really want to keep my bumper, but I just want to change the symbol to monaro, and the body shops I trust and not to willing to help, anybody try this or is willing to help me????????????
Another thing you have to look at, is that the bumper converges to a point. If I'm not mistaken, the Monaro emblem goes on the hood, I don't think the hood converges. So your emblem might... "seesaw" on the bumper, I would help you...for a nominal fee :D haha... but I kinda have too many irons in the fire right now.
1 Attachment(s) I have taken it to 3 different shops and nobody wants to attempt to do it, because everyone is afarid of the flex problem if someone was to hit my front bmpr. What to do!!!!!!!!!! then they don't know what they are doing and I wouldn't want them to touch my car anyway.
I had mine done correctly, and my car has actually been hit and it's still fine.
to do it correctly, they have to grind out the area and build it up slowly, in layers, so it will set right. the most important thing is that they use the right material so it will flex, shrink and expand with the bumper with different temperatures
I had mine done correctly, and my car has actually been hit and it's still fine.
Yea, any good bumper filler/adhesive will take the abuse....the problem is with the topcoats, seems like nothing really stands up to the abuse like the factory finishes on bumpers. The bumper is stiff enough around the front crown that the filler will be fine.
Yea, any good bumper filler/adhesive will take the abuse....the problem is with the topcoats, seems like nothing really stands up to the abuse like the factory finishes on bumpers. The bumper is stiff enough around the front crown that the filler will be fine. my bumper got ripped off on both sides and it didn't crack anywhere at all. the shop uses great products and knows how to mix the flex additive in the right amounts so it doesn't spiderweb.
most competent shops should be able to do that. the hard part is that it usually makes the paint a slightly different tint so they have to be able to adjust for that
The indentation is easily filled.
If your body shop doesn't want to do it in case someone impacts your front bumper, lol....if someone impacts your front bumper you'll most likely need a new one anyways, its not very hard to do.

TBYRNE Motorsports carries the complete line of products that are in the Holley family. This includes Holley | Hooker Headers | Lunati | Earl's | Weiand | NOS | Flowtech. If you need something from any of those brands, we can take care of that for you!
Polished version pictured
The cast aluminum design is more durable than the factory composite. "Boost" or "spray," the 300-111P can handle the added stress of forced induction and nitrous injection. It contains extra material for flow modifications (hand, CNC, or Extrude Hone") to feed hungry modified LS1 engines. The aluminum manifold's thicker walls can also be machined for NOS fogger nozzles or other modifications
Features
Idle - 6200 RPM power band.
Cast aluminum design.
Satin finish 1manifold can be polished).
Extra material allows for flow modifications.
Thick aluminum walls can be machined for NOS®.
Underside panel is removed to facilitate access to runners.
Installation
Uses factory replacement-type throttle body.
Utilizes regular paper gaskets to seal ports.
Replacement gasket set available under P/N 108-117
300-111 Weiand Aluminum intake
300-111P Weiand Aluminum intake (polished)
Give us a call at 1-877-482-9763 or e-mail tbyrne@tbyrne.com for our current discounted pricing.
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Is there any way we could work with you to have these sent out to Extrude Hone? What would be the expected gains?