I parked my car with the wheels turned about 30-40 degrees to the right. A few hours later I went to leave and the key would not turn in the ignition. I did the usual , meaning: turning the wheel to unlock the ignition and any other trick i could think of. And yes I did make sure that I applied enough force to the wheel while turing it "almost slamming the wheel" left and right. No luck. Bottom line my GTO is a paper weight for a few days. I had it towed to the dealership, used windshield wiper fluid to lubricate the flatbed to allow the front wheels to slide on the tow truck. I am glad I bought the extended warranty.
Well has anybody every heard/experienced anything like this?
Girlfriend's bmw 330 used to do that all the time, what a pain in the ass. Steering wheel just wouldn't unlock.
There are some GTO's that have had to have the ignition cylinder replaced... sometimes the BCM, too...
Same thing happened with my Grand Am. We had to get a new ignition cylinder as well.
There are some GTO's that have had to have the ignition cylinder replaced... sometimes the BCM, too... Ditto on one of my Maximas. Had to have it towed to the dealer and the ignition was replaced.
I parked my car with the wheels turned about 30-40 degrees to the right. A few hours later I went to leave and the key would not turn in the ignition. I did the usual , meaning: turning the wheel to unlock the ignition and any other trick i could think of. And yes I did make sure that I applied enough force to the wheel while turing it "almost slamming the wheel" left and right. No luck. Bottom line my GTO is a paper weight for a few days. I had it towed to the dealership, used windshield wiper fluid to lubricate the flatbed to allow the front wheels to slide on the tow truck. I am glad I bought the extended warranty.
Well has anybody every heard/experienced anything like this? My car did the same thing except, my wheels were straight back in February. Well to keep a long story short, the dealer had to replace steering column, Ignition Switch, Lock Cylinder and rebuild the lock cylinder 3x and still not completely fixed. I sent an e-mail to a manager at GM and did get 2 part numbers to replace the ignition switch and solenoid. Then I just called up a service rep, who asked what I was looking at wanting and I let her know that I just wanted my car to be fixed. She even offered me free oil changes for a 12K Miles or 1 year which ever came first and they are trying to get this resolved. Even after the 4th visit to the dealership, the iginition switch locked up again, however, messing with the steering wheel did get it to start but it was forceful. Seeing that your car is 2005, sounds like your car is the 2nd Manual car besides mine to have this happen. Even GMs Techline has never heard of this issue happening on an 05 M6, only A4s (autos).
Charlie
These ignitions must be crappy, i test drove a new '06, and we couldn't get the key in, when we returned, had a hard time getting it out, only to find the key bent in the ignition. My '05 i just bought, notice sometimes the key doesn't just 'slide out' like it should, takes a little bit of oomph. Oh, and i have an M6 too.
I talked to the dealership and they told me something like, they had to rebuild/replace the ignition cyclinder. I hope this is not a reoccurring problem.
I talked to the dealership and they told me something like, they had to rebuild/replace the ignition cyclinder. I hope this is not a reoccurring problem. My car is in the shop for the 5th time today over the problem after the past 2 months since the Ignition Switch originally locked up. If the dealer cannot get this guy fixed right because when I first bought the car (new), it had the usual hard to get out and was always easy to get back in with a very occasional hard to turn the key. Well it never had the problem of locking the key out and never had the tendency to lock up with out a forceful turn. I hate to say it but I think a handful of 05s have the crappiest igntion switches.
Charlie
I had mine lock up once, of course I was in the middle of nowhere when it happened. I decided if it was broken already, I was going to make it turn. I thought the key was going to snap off before the switch turned, but it broke loose. That has been over a year ago and hasn't happened since.
My car is back to normal actually better then when I first bought it. The dealer replace the black ring around the Ignition Switch, and now when I turn the ignition to off, the steering wheel lock pops out with out any problems now. Took 5 visits to the dealer, an e-mail to a gm manager and 1 call to a gm rep finally lit a fire under the dealer and techline to finally fix the problem. Plus I did get a year of free oil and filter replacement!
Charlie
happened to my car once too, i had the steering wheel straight when it happened. Took about 2 hours of wrestling with it to get it to free up. It hasnt done it since. That was about 6 months ago . .
Well, mine won't turn either. I did everything, short of breaking the key.
Stuck at work and waiting for a ride. Nice way to start a weekend.
I had mine lock up once, of course I was in the middle of nowhere when it happened. I decided if it was broken already, I was going to make it turn. I thought the key was going to snap off before the switch turned, but it broke loose. That has been over a year ago and hasn't happened since. This just happen to me yesterday when I was about to go to my 2nd job and I did the same thing you did(turned it real hard) and snap! It worked!
I thought I broke something, because now the ignition feels funny when I turn it. I might have to go and check if it turns with a screwdriver now.
I already had thoughts of a tow truck and going to the stealership!!! I have never took my car in for anything ever (2 years 3 months of ownership as of now).
Wow. Just wondering how hot it was in your cars when this has happened to you. This happened to me today, and it was pretty hot inside the car at the time.
I am wondering if there is a tight tolerence somewhere, and when getting hot it expands and stops the key from turning.
Wow. Just wondering how hot it was in your cars when this has happened to you. This happened to me today, and it was pretty hot inside the car at the time.
I am wondering if there is a tight tolerence somewhere, and when getting hot it expands and stops the key from turning. It was hot in my car when it happend.
I haven't had the steering wheel lock thing, but for a few days a week or so ago, there was a two second delay for my car to start after turning the key. Odd.
I haven't had the steering wheel lock thing, but for a few days a week or so ago, there was a two second delay for my car to start after turning the key. Odd.
Just happened to ours today. My woman called me from work and couldn't get it to turn. It was about 88* today. We've had the car just over 2 years. Unfortunately shes managed to put 39,000 miles on it in that time. So now it's out of warranty. Had the SOB towed to the dealer. Service was closed. Perhaps I'll email the link to this thread.
Same here. Just happened today. I am also out of warranty. How much is this going to cost?
Apparently Pontiac knows about the problem. I have 39,XXX miles on mine, and they covered it. Tow and all.
It shouldn't cost you anything.
They know about the rear end problems too. Yet I have already had it replaced twice, and they denied a third at 34,000 miles. So I am very skeptical. I will try and be optimistic though.
Anyone have problems with the keyfob?
I showed up for work at 7:30, locked the doors and went inside
Then a fire station lost its connection, so I grab my keys, head out the door and my baby doesnt even recognize me :-(
its nothing to do with the car, the odomenter and radio still display, so the car has power.
little suspicious about the fob.
any ideas?
Apparently Pontiac knows about the problem. I have 39,XXX miles on mine, and they covered it. Tow and all.
It shouldn't cost you anything. Same here. 39,500 on the odometer. If one dealership won't cover it, keep searching.
Well they are helping alot. I only have to pay 100. So not bad. They are also going to check out a slapping noise when the engine is cold, and they promised to work with me there also. It might not be a big deal anyway. Just waiting to see. Also got a discount rate on a rental car if needed.
They're not helping you at all. The total for my car was $112.76. The ignition was $36.26 and it was 76.50 to install it. Tell them to blow you, and don't thank them for anything. They're not doing you any favors.
Tell them to blow you, and don't thank them for anything. They're not doing you any favors. lol
Same thing happened to me a couple weeks ago. I had brought the car to the dealer for an alignment and inspection. They call me a few hours later to tell me they could never get the car started, that the key wouldn't turn. Brought the spare set, same thing. Wheels were straight. They told me it was a "bad tumbler." Car was there for 2 days waiting for the part. I guess it was the best place for it to happen, if it was anywhere else I would have needed a tow.
Also had the alarm box (I think this what it was called) changed a year ago. When I would lock the car, the driver side parking light/brake light would sometimes stay on, and would go off if I unlocked/locked the car a gain. Killed the battery once or twice. Nobody could figure it out until one day they stayed on no matter what I did, and it was finally figured out. I ended up needing new keyfobs and a new alarm box.
Yep, same issue here. I had to take the top part of the console apart so I could release the shifter lock to get it in neutral. They replaced the entire steering column. The cost for the repair was $1,400.00. With over 53K miles on it I'm past warranty but GM stepped up to the plate and covered the parts ($1,000.00) and I had to pay for the labor. I thought this was pretty fair being as my car has a lot of miles. They also threw in a free lube and oil change. Seems this issue is popping up more and more. This should be a recall.
Ya know, when I first read this thread, I really couldn't relate...but I've only had this '06 (and it is brand new) for one week. Already, I have noticed some strange goings on with the ignition switch. Sometimes, I'll get in it, stick the key in...depress the clutch pedal FULLY, turn the key....and nothing happens...but then it'll start...like after I release the key from the start position. It's VERY weird. Doesn't do it all the time.
Ya know, when I first read this thread, I really couldn't relate...but I've only had this '06 (and it is brand new) for one week. Already, I have noticed some strange goings on with the ignition switch. Sometimes, I'll get in it, stick the key in...depress the clutch pedal FULLY, turn the key....and nothing happens...but then it'll start...like after I release the key from the start position. It's VERY weird. Doesn't do it all the time. This problem seems to only be on the 05s.

Have any idea what it weighs? I am looking at doing this for my 4l65E but noticed it was steel. The idea here is to kee the weight off and not add any. TCI makes a deep aluminum pan that while it costs more, should be fairly light. Derale doesn't list the weight of their pans on their website that I can find. I know it might not be much weight for the steel pan but these cars are heavy enough so it all adds up...
does every single dollar you make go into your GTO jeff? :eek2:
i never weighed mine, but would you really want a softer metal pan down there? yea, you may shead off a pound or so, but what about when you hit a rock or something else?
i never weighed mine, but would you really want a softer metal pan down there? yea, you may shead off a pound or so, but what about when you hit a rock or something else? I would be fairly confident that TCI tran's pans are top quality and quite strong.
does every single dollar you make go into your GTO jeff? :eek2: No but seems that way huh?
No but seems that way huh? sure does,I can only imagine all the $$$$$ you have basically wasted on the ls2edit horseshit.....I am just happy the GTO has a nice interior,and all I want to do with it is add a JHP gauge pod..........the engine,tranny,rear end,brakes and suspension are another story :gears:
I'm curious about this myself. I would think they would weigh about the same as the Derale pan is stamped sheet steel with tubes for cooling
The TCI pan is thicker cast AL356 Aluminum. I think its about 3 times thicker wall. Also I don't know about clearance issues with the TCI pan, it will hang down lower. I didn't really look at the TCI as an option becasue I thought it would hang a good bit lower than the stock one.
I have the Derale pan. It doesn't hang that much lower than the the stock pan. Looking under the car from the front, the skid plate and headers hang lower than the pan and from the side I can't really see the pan for the headers.
It does make a difference in cooling and holds more fluid. Didn't think about weighing the two pans but from holding both I remeber the Derale felt lighter.
Warning. Bad joke. I couldn't resist.
So I heard a whole train full of GTOs got Derale-ed.
Warning. Bad joke. I couldn't resist.
So I heard a whole train full of GTOs got Derale-ed. you my friend are a crewl sick puppy
So you guys with Derale - still happy with them?
i think the pan is awesome. its about half the price of a TCI pan, holds 2 extra qts.,its fairly light, doesnt hang too low and it has tubes running through it for extra cooling. HOW COULD YOU GO WRONG WITH THIS PAN!!
i think the pan is awesome. its about half the price of a TCI pan, holds 2 extra qts.,its fairly light, doesnt hang too low and it has tubes running through it for extra cooling. HOW COULD YOU GO WRONG WITH THIS PAN!! Thanks. What's better - the Fram transmission filter or the TCI one? Fram is quite a bit cheaper.
Also when you put the new filter in, do you just shove it up there or does it bolt on?
I believe the derale pan is a bit lighter. I just put mine on 3 weeks ago. It still is no where as low as the front crossmember
I will weigh my Derale today if anyone wants me to, since I haven't put it on yet. I believe it is lighter than most aluminum pans since they are much thicker. I had an aluminum pan on my T/A and it was definitely a heavy piece compared to a steel pan.
What's the torque specification for the transmission pan bolts?
And how exactly does the filter stay in place?
Anyone getting any leaks from the steel pans? I would figure Aluminum-to-Aluminum would mate and heat stretch better then the steel.
Do Derale users still measure ATF level by the OEM dipstick?
It took me a couple of days to get the level right according to the dipstick (hot, engine running, on flat horizontal surface).
But my Goat sometimes feels funny when shifting.
I may go back to the OEM pan (after I clean it, the darn thing is dirty :))
you want a lighter pan but your adding more fluid......you're not going to drop any real weight.
the extra fluid is great for cooling purposes but the least weight would be the stock pan. IMO just go with the derale pan, plus I wouldn't buy anything from TCI.
you want a lighter pan but your adding more fluid......you're not going to drop any real weight.
the extra fluid is great for cooling purposes but the least weight would be the stock pan. IMO just go with the derale pan, plus I wouldn't buy anything from TCI. I used a TCI filter. Is that bad?
I got the Derale pan for the cooling benefits, not the weight.
But I just want to know whether I have the right amount of fluid in there.
I'm sure their filters are fine, I was referring to their stalls/trans/etc.
I am going to be paranoid now.
I am going to be paranoid now. dont worry, im paranoid everytime i start my car:)

Hey guys:
Looking for 70-80 lb injectors for my 2005 GTO. Can anyone direct me where to get them from?
Also, can the stock computer handle the 70-80 lb injectors?
thank you
Summit carries the MSD 72's and 96's, but I have to ask..............
Why do you need injectors that big?
I'm putting down around 500 to the wheels and my 60# Mototrons rarely see over a 60% duty cycle. The computer can be tuned for the injectors, but you'll probably have a hard time setting them at idle.
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com...html?item=1066 Bob
Ha, I just made a thread on these then see this.
Not a big fan of Hi-impedance injectors bigger than the Mototrons. They tend to be sluggish and don't idle well, unless your stock displacement is huge. You really need a lot of current to control something that large, and high impedance is about low current.

There are 2 legit ways to get more fuel. 60 Lb Mototrons will withstand quite a bit of pressure before they go static, so you can work on the supply side using boost referenced regulator and a full return fuel system with staged or modulated pump(s). Some tuners use 4:1 rising rate regulators with triple staged Bosch pumps.

Use Siemens 75 or 83 Lb low impedance injectors with an Acceleronics injector amplifier, but a good fuel pump with boost referenced regulator is still recommended for a F/I setup.
Summit carries the MSD 72's and 96's, but I have to ask..............
Why do you need injectors that big?
I'm putting down around 500 to the wheels and my 60# Mototrons rarely see over a 60% duty cycle. The computer can be tuned for the injectors, but you'll probably have a hard time setting them at idle. I am planning to push high 500RWHP and i think the 60lb injectors are maxing their potential.
The high impedance injectors appears to be not 'so good' for forced induction so i will have to get a control box anyway. In that case i would rather get injectors that will be good in the future when i increase the boost to somewhere 12-14lb boost. Any one disagree wtih me? We all learing so i would not take any disagreements as an insult...thank you
Not a big fan of Hi-impedance injectors bigger than the Mototrons. They tend to be sluggish and don't idle well, unless your stock displacement is huge. You really need a lot of current to control something that large, and high impedance is about low current.

There are 2 legit ways to get more fuel. 60 Lb Mototrons will withstand quite a bit of pressure before they go static, so you can work on the supply side using boost referenced regulator and a full return fuel system with staged or modulated pump(s). Some tuners use 4:1 rising rate regulators with triple staged Bosch pumps.

Use Siemens 75 or 83 Lb low impedance injectors with an Acceleronics injector amplifier, but a good fuel pump with boost referenced regulator is still recommended for a F/I setup. where do i find 75 or 83 Low Impedance injectors? Are Siemens a good brand? Just heard roomers that almost all injectors are being manufactored by the same company but stamped with brand-names, so they all should be about the same quality.
Additionaly, what type of control box should i get for the low impedance injectors?
thank you
I am planning to push high 500RWHP and i think the 60lb injectors are maxing their potential.
The high impedance injectors appears to be not 'so good' for forced induction so i will have to get a control box anyway. In that case i would rather get injectors that will be good in the future when i increase the boost to somewhere 12-14lb boost. Any one disagree wtih me? We all learing so i would not take any disagreements as an insult...thank you not true. you're probably would max out your pump first. im running 660/680 with aps twin pump and high impedence 63#. i'm also pushing 12-13psi on a stock compression ls2. my air fuel is right around high 10s with plenty of fuel left.
where do i find 75 or 83 Low Impedance injectors? Are Siemens a good brand? Just heard roomers that almost all injectors are being manufactored by the same company but stamped with brand-names, so they all should be about the same quality.
Additionaly, what type of control box should i get for the low impedance injectors?
thank you you will not find any unmodified siemens injectors pushing that amount of flow via high impedence. i've been told that there is a company taking the siemens mototrons and "drilling" the tips to increase flow to something aounrd the likes of high 80s. for a lack of a better phrase, this is stupid as shit.
an injector's spray is directly related to the tip, which is called the orifice disk. if you look at different injectors the tips can have different hole (we're talking microns here) configurations. they can be on a flat disk or a disk with a raised raised. it can have as many as 1 tiny hole or multiple holes. but if you drill the tip, you have no spray, you have streaming. therefore you have no atomization, thus creating a crappy idle.
yes injectors are manufactured (mass produced wise, thousands to millions) by a handful of companies: Siemens, Bosch, Denzo, and Delphi to name a few. RC Injectors (IIRC) makes them in a sample build type of style where they're made in low quantities (talking hundreds to thousands). Also, when you start to talk about manufactures that mass produce, they're pretty much all good brands. yes some defects squeek by into the field, but compare 1 out of millions and that's a pretty good percentage. also they're required to pass external audits to sell to the big 3, well i know Siemens and Bosch do anyways; Denzo is Japanese and sells to companies like Honda and Toyota. I'm not sure what their standards are.
not true. you're probably would max out your pump first. im running 660/680 with aps twin pump and high impedence 63#. i'm also pushing 12-13psi on a stock compression ls2. my air fuel is right around high 10s with plenty of fuel left.
you will not find any unmodified siemens injectors pushing that amount of flow via high impedence. i've been told that there is a company taking the siemens mototrons and "drilling" the tips to increase flow to something aounrd the likes of high 80s. for a lack of a better phrase, this is stupid as shit.
an injector's spray is directly related to the tip, which is called the orifice disk. if you look at different injectors the tips can have different hole (we're talking microns here) configurations. they can be on a flat disk or a disk with a raised raised. it can have as many as 1 tiny hole or multiple holes. but if you drill the tip, you have no spray, you have streaming. therefore you have no atomization, thus creating a crappy idle.
yes injectors are manufactured (mass produced wise, thousands to millions) by a handful of companies: Siemens, Bosch, Denzo, and Delphi to name a few. RC Injectors (IIRC) makes them in a sample build type of style where they're made in low quantities (talking hundreds to thousands). Also, when you start to talk about manufactures that mass produce, they're pretty much all good brands. yes some defects squeek by into the field, but compare 1 out of millions and that's a pretty good percentage. also they're required to pass external audits to sell to the big 3, well i know Siemens and Bosch do anyways; Denzo is Japanese and sells to companies like Honda and Toyota. I'm not sure what their standards are. Hey guys/ thank you for the input.
I have 2 walbro 255s in tank (customed to fit the stupid bucket) and will add a new fuel line from tank to fuel rails. then i will use the stock lines for the fuel returns. Also, i will use an aeromotive fuel pressure regulator for up to 1000 hp placed after the fule rails. this will eliminate the the fule pressure regulator that is in the tank.
Therefore, i am not concern of the fule. What i have observed is that turbo cars use low impedance injectors with a control box. N/A cars use high impedance. I don't know if this is a fact, but just from my observation and discussions with other horse power thursts.
The ratio of Horsepower to injector size that i have learned (it is just an aproximation) is that a 60lb inject is good for about 600 rwhp, and so ON for the rest of the sizes. This is not an accurate rate but it is something to keep in mind when dealing with extra Horsepower. So, to be on the safe side and to have a little space to extend myself in the future when i increase the boost i would like to get injectors of 75-85lb low impedance and attach a control box.
What do you guys think of this?
thank you / john.
You have to consider fuel pressure in your hp calculations also. AS fuel pressure goes up, so does injector flow. A 60# injector is rated at something like 47psi, a stock LS2 is ~60. If you have an adjustable rising rate regulator with good fuel supply, then you will get much more out of them. I am putting down ~800 with 60#'s, but I also run a good amount of alky. I have run out of alky though and the car is not "dangerously" lean- and that is just with a single walbro, BAP, modded bucket and modded stock regulator. 60#'s will be more than enough for your goals with your fuel system.
Joe
I am planning to push high 500RWHP and i think the 60lb injectors are maxing their potential.
The high impedance injectors appears to be not 'so good' for forced induction so i will have to get a control box anyway. In that case i would rather get injectors that will be good in the future when i increase the boost to somewhere 12-14lb boost. Any one disagree wtih me? We all learing so i would not take any disagreements as an insult...thank you I made 600rwhp with 60# Motrons and was around 80% duty cycle on them! You will be just fine man! If you do in fact want bigger injectors I agree 100% with mistermike! You need a return style fuel system and low impedance injctors with an injector driver!
Hell I make 576 on ford SVO enjectors and they are 40 somethings...... Granted = 50 somethings on a GM platform. I am also at my max and use Meth as a bandaid.
kwiktsi is right injectors are rated as i believe 42lbs at the 59-60 you fet with GM cars 60# turn into like 73# injector flow rate i made 540 on mine now plan on makeing 650 out of a auto with same injectors. I have seen them support 750 rwhp in a z06 supercharged.

I can't possibly say enough good about these guys in the room I have here so I'll let my dyno results talk for me. THANK YOU Tri-Star
LS2 stroker block all forged internals,Trickflow 215's milled .030 to 58cc, Comp cams XER .595/.598@112 FAST 90 NW 90mm throttle body 1 3/4 SLP lt's Hi flow cats borla catback. Now my only problem is trying to get traction through 1st 2nd and most of 3rd. Don't worry I'll keep working on it.
Another great Tri Star build.
Once again I just gotta say your car looks (and now runs) incredible.
Damn you're gonna give BJ a run for his money
Awesome! Can't say enough about those guys. Great work once again! Congratualtions! You going to run it at the track?
Thanks everybody, I'm gonna try to run it but I think I'm a 13 sec. driver in a 11 sec. car. But It'll be fun anyway thats why we build them right?
Outstanding results!! Beautiful torque curve, congrats!!!!
500 ft lbs of torque is quite an accomplishment.
Very impressive for a 402
Is that a off the shelf grind cam 232-234 595-598?
WOW is that some serious TQ....
Thanks everybody, I'm gonna try to run it but I think I'm a 13 sec. driver in a 11 sec. car. But It'll be fun anyway thats why we build them right? Very Impressive... those guys at TriStar keep coming out with bigger and badder... I wish I had the money for a new motor...
BTW: I have 2 rear Thruxton with BFG DR's for sale. They only were used once at the track in Valdosta.... Total of 5-7 passes.
18 X 9.5 - 275/35/18
Thanks everybody, I'm gonna try to run it but I think I'm a 13 sec. driver in a 11 sec. car. But It'll be fun anyway thats why we build them right?
Sent you a pm.
You should come with Robert and me tomorrow.
Sent you a pm.
You should come with Robert and me tomorrow. Thats a great idea, and great opportunity to see what she can do. Probably be in the mid 11s first time out as long as you can nail the launch. Good luck to the rest of you. Be sure to post up times.
Wow nice numbers man. I wish i had the money for this! I would be running at least a 150 shot on top of it though!!! Congrats man!
How would this setup do with fi? i.e. Procharger?
Compression is about 11.6 so not too good for f.i. They have a setup with the same block setup just for that. I've personally seen two twin turbo cars in excess of 650rwhp
Congrats on the numbers man!!!Oh,and once again...Thank you God for giving us Tri-Star!Now if they would open one up in M.D.!
Wow, what an awesome torque curve. Congrats!!!!!!
That's like supercharger numbers right there...can't beat that!
Nice numbers enjoy it........
:hail:
Wow, incredible! Must have......:eek2:
Can't wait till they finish mine. Near the same setup, except add the spray. Roll cage going in courtesy of Padre as well. Add a couple more safety features and ready for the next big event. Remember man, you will need the safety equipment for Ga vs Fl if you go to the next one. From watching the boards on the last one, it makes since to prepare just in case.
LOL! Some Ford owner on LS1.com wrote "engine dyno I assume" about my results. I guess its hard for Ford owners to realize this kind of rear wheel power/tq
Your torque is just crazy! How does it idle and drive around town? Any vids?
It idles great (950 rpm) and drives even better. No vids yet. If you didn't know what kind of power its making you'd think maybe a mild cam, headers nothing special. But lookout when its hammer time. This thing takes off like its on a rocket. I really need some practice to keep traction in 2nd and part of 3rd,1st is totally useless for racing around right now. i plan on making it to cruises and goattogethers before its too cold and for sure in the spring. Hope to see all of you at these things. Thanks for the compliments. Thanks to Rob and Robert @ Tri- Star for doing such a great job!
Awesome numbers man! There's no replacment for displacement!
Wow! Nice. I will pay them a visit soon.