OK, I did a search & have a couple questions.
What sponser, now sells the K&N or any other Oil Breather cap?
I know AZPS sold them at one time, but given their recent history, that's not an option.
Second, will it be Ok to have this on a basically stock car? Recommendations?
Any information or link about to where I can purchase this is appreciated. Thanks guys.
Speed Inc (sponsor) has them... HERE
Speed Inc (sponsor) has them... HERE Thanks, I'm assuming these are for the LS2 also?

Just wondering what everyone thinks is the best hood and for the best price?
05-06 stock hood
Carbon fiber Banshee FTMFW
Carbon fiber Banshee FTMFW I agree:eek2:
I agree:eek2:
WOW!!! That is a suuuuwwwweeeettttt looking GTO. More pics?
WOW!!! That is a suuuuwwwweeeettttt looking GTO. More pics? thanks heres more
^you and Oh4GTO have the SICKEST yellow GTOs out there.
Agree. I love the split 04 exhaust and the Banshee paint job. AWESOME!
Just wondering what everyone thinks is the best hood and for the best price? If that is your car pictured in your. avatar you should keep it.
It doesn't cost you anything nor do you have to pay to paint it....
MPD for the hood...
If that is your car pictured in your. avatar you should keep it.
It doesn't cost you anything nor do you have to pay to paint it.... Actually if you're looking for a new hood, I'd be willing to take that one off your hands...
Other than the stock 05/06 hood, I have to agree with the Banshee hood.
Banshee :ftw: !
stock 04 hood > *

dms 3in cowl! ftw....
oh yeah...
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end thread...
Custom......when you just want something different.
MPD Scorpio :wall:
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BTW... Bad @$$ Goat's everyone!!
Carbon fiber Banshee FTMFW also agreed, the fit was PERFECT and there was no body work to be done outside of paint.
How much is that Carbon Fiber Banshee hood, and where can it be obtained?
Thanks.
How much is that Carbon Fiber Banshee hood, and where can it be obtained?
Thanks. About a grand unpainted for the CF. PFYC and Gravana sell them for sure.
Rumor has it that my hood's out of production (Gravana Type-W)... :(
If I had to replace it, I'd go with the '05+ stocker... or a replica of it in CF.
I wanted that gravana type w
Otherwise it would be the DMS cowl, or the banshee for me.
aed central :wall:
I'd like a fiberglass/carbon fiber flat hood.
Then again I'd also like an 04 style bumper with 2 exhaust cutouts and some very unassuming looking pipes. ;)
stock 04 hood > * No it is not! :madsign3: The '05 BZJ hood is significantly better than the stock '04 hood. :wiggle:
05-06 stock hood :iagree:
Banshee.
I always kind of liked the look of the SLP hood, but I hear it is a turd and not very well constructed.
I always kind of liked the look of the SLP hood, but I hear it is a turd and not very well constructed.
pics?

So here is the deal. I have the Headers and the catback coming and while I'm waiting for those I'm thinking . . . "Hey throw in a cam". So I was thinking of maybe getting a 222/226 cam from cartek and have them install it. I emailed them for a quote but figured you guys could give me a quicker answer.
Thanks
$450-$600
I agree, also some places charge up to $800, which includes all the gaskets and bolts you will need, including oil pump swap if required. But that is ballpark, for cam install only. I wouldn't pay more than $800, and I wouldn't pay that unless it was a lsx knowledgable shop, and it included everything. Tunes are usually extra.
With just a few hand tools it can be done in about 6-7 hours in the garage. There is a really good how to floating around somewhere here and it gives a great step by step.
Yeah, it's on ls1howto.com I read over it and it looks like it explains everything you need to know. I'll probably do my own now that I read through it. It doesn't seem very hard.
Should cost you around $800 including the necessary tune.
Should cost you around $800 including the necessary tune. Considering a tune is at least $400, that's cheap! I have yet to see a shop charge $400 for cam install...
With just a few hand tools it can be done in about 6-7 hours in the garage. There is a really good how to floating around somewhere here and it gives a great step by step. Here ya go, I wrote this specifically for the 04 GTO based on the LS1 howto guide.
http://konrademrich.com/cars/gto/herecaminstall.doc
I think you guys are a little off base. Here is a list of what we do.
Parts,
Custom Comp Cam, Cam Pro verified.
HD cam bolts.
Manley Nextex dual valve springs, Titanium retainers, Viton valve seals, shims for the proper installed height, and spring seat locators.
Dexcool coolant, gaskets, seals, oil, filter, and all other necessary parts.
Labor,
Labor to install the cam, and degree.
Labor to install the springs and set the installed height.
Check piston to valve clearance, and push rod pre load.
Full dyno tuning with HP tuners or EFI live. We have both, but we use which ever software has the most tables for the best results. For example, we use HP Tuners on 2005-2006, and EFI Live on 2004.
Our total price is $2495.
This breaks down to $1200-$1300 in parts, $800 labor, and $445 for the tune.
Mind you the job takes us 12 to 14 hours in labor alone. Most people and shops don't take the time to degree the cam, check piston to valve, set the spring installed height, push rod pre load, or verify the cam. It's the details that make the difference.
I am not sure but that sounds a little high. My husband and I own a shop and he charges around $400 and can get it done in around 3 to 4 hours. Yes, that is WITH degreeing the cam, all the parts, etc. That also includes the labor to install. And, we usually clean the car up as well. Can't let a dirty car leave the shop. Then you pay for the tune, however much that is.....
Tracy
throw in an underdrive pulley if your gonna be throwin in a cam, so tack on another 200
throw in an underdrive pulley if your gonna be throwin in a cam, so tack on another 200 :iagree:
I think I am doing my pulley first. Along w/ every other bolt on I can think of.
Edit: You may also want to look into a clutch dependingo n what kind of power you are planning on putting out.
most shops charge 800ish. KPE charges 400 here in chesapeake, and do the shit right.
Considering a tune is at least $400, that's cheap! I have yet to see a shop charge $400 for cam install... That was the price quoted to me by one of this forums sponsors!! :wall: No I will not name names:wiggle: When I was told $800 I nearly fell over, it is a great price from a great shop.
most shops charge 800ish. KPE charges 400 here in chesapeake, and do the shit right. yah, but does he wash the car too???? :wall:
If I could get it done for 800, including the tune, then I'll do it. It would require me to install my own LT's to save cash but it would be worth it. Then I could get the tune I will require anyhow. Man . . . when you think about it I'm saving money! Yeah that's it . . . I'm saving money.
I think you guys are a little off base. Here is a list of what we do.
Parts,
Custom Comp Cam, Cam Pro verified.
HD cam bolts.
Manley Nextex dual valve springs, Titanium retainers, Viton valve seals, shims for the proper installed height, and spring seat locators.
Dexcool coolant, gaskets, seals, oil, filter, and all other necessary parts.
Labor,
Labor to install the cam, and degree.
Labor to install the springs and set the installed height.
Check piston to valve clearance, and push rod pre load.
Full dyno tuning with HP tuners or EFI live. We have both, but we use which ever software has the most tables for the best results. For example, we use HP Tuners on 2005-2006, and EFI Live on 2004.
Our total price is $2495.
This breaks down to $1200-$1300 in parts, $800 labor, and $445 for the tune.
Mind you the job takes us 12 to 14 hours in labor alone. Most people and shops don't take the time to degree the cam, check piston to valve, set the spring installed height, push rod pre load, or verify the cam. It's the details that make the difference. +1 (will be about 2,300-2,500)
I am not sure but that sounds a little high. My husband and I own a shop and he charges around $400 and can get it done in around 3 to 4 hours. Yes, that is WITH degreeing the cam, all the parts, etc. That also includes the labor to install.
3 to 4 hours... :huh:
come to me and my "special" tech named Kurt in CT.....we can hook you up :)
do what you want with your money but i think modding the car myself is over half of the fun. i had never done a cam before and other than needing help on getting the radiator out & in it wasn't too bad of a job. ya, you'll need a tune but then i figured that out on my own too
do what you want with your money but i think modding the car myself is over half of the fun. i had never done a cam before and other than needing help on getting the radiator out & in it wasn't too bad of a job. ya, you'll need a tune but then i figured that out on my own too Yup, agreed. Degree'ing a cam isn't rocket science either.
can someone tell me how to start a thread please,computer illiterate
can someone tell me how to start a thread please,computer illiterate Best totally unrelated post..ever.
3 to 4 hours... :huh: yah ive done a few cam/spring installs and to do it right it takes longer than 3-4 hours. we usually start at 8 and finish at 4-6. better to do it right the first time.
yah ive done a few cam/spring installs and to do it right it takes longer than 3-4 hours. we usually start at 8 and finish at 4-6. better to do it right the first time. this speaks volumes :judge:
degree the cam???? whats that? they didnt do that on the install on ls1howto.com
I'd give EEP a call..if you got a bunch of stuff to do it may be worth the ride....check out their website the install of a cam was pretty damn reasonable. I was surprised.
3 to 4 hours... :huh: Yep, 3 to 4 hours. Has, one time, put two in during the course of 1 day. Ask around in the SE section. The Rock was there as were just finished with his cam and waiting on the tuner. Tom figured he'd get that done while he waited. Now.....this was just installing and degree, not the valve springs and pushrods. He finished those up the next day. However, still didn't take 15 hours. So, he can't justify charging the $800+ for labor.

yah ive done a few cam/spring installs and to do it right it takes longer than 3-4 hours. we usually start at 8 and finish at 4-6. better to do it right the first time. I totally agree. That is why he makes sure each car is perfect the FIRST time so the only time they come back is for a different mod install.

this speaks volumes :judge: I agree again.

Tracy
degree the cam???? whats that? they didnt do that on the install on ls1howto.com Degreeing the cam is basically checking the cam operation while in the motor before you "button it up" to verify its controling the valves like its supposed to. It deals with checking the valve events and advancing or retarding the cam (with a special timing gearset). Requires a few special tools and parts and is somewhat complicated/confusing for beginners so I left it out of my write up. It does offer advantages ( some HP and/or Tq here or there) but unless your cam requires advancing or retarding (by design) it isn't required.

I was wondering what causes rear inner tirw wear?Is it as simple as having a 4 wheel alignment?Any comments would be helpfull!
I was wondering what causes rear inner tirw wear?Is it as simple as having a 4 wheel alignment?Any comments would be helpfull! I had the alignment done twice on mine, and they still wore like that. IMHO it is from the camber, and I don't believe it is adjustable with stock parts. At least that's my version of what I've gathered from others here. If I just step back and look though, I can see that my rear tires are like this /---\ .
Gerry
You need rear springs. The stock ones are weak. And during acceleration, the car squats more than you think. And that is a heavy tire wearing senario. Hell, look at your sig pic ShoddyHog.
Like Black Devil said you need springs as they are weak! If you are going to lower it, then you will need camber kits for the rear to correct the camber.
or air bags....
Air bags don't help all the time, or that much. Need a perminate fix like springs. I am not going to specify brand or hight. Just not what you have now.
There's also a rear camber kit from Pedders. Check out the vendors who sell Pedders suspension parts.
Front and rear cradle alignments are a good start, but the springs will help the most.
Thanx all for your help,makes sense,for now though I am going to see if a alignment will help some and try not to launch so hard all the time(ya right)!
springs are relatively cheep. my rear springs had compressed to the point that the car was about half an inch lower than it should have been. Since the new springs everything is wearing even. Just make sure you keep an eye on it, for safety sake. on the rears you never notice the inside wear until your sliding all over the place :secret:
is the camber issue causing it to rub against the strut?
is the camber issue causing it to rub against the strut? No the front is where the strut rub is! What his problem is in the rear, with spring sag and if it is going to be lowered then you need the rear camber kits to make the rear adjustable to correct for the negative camber that comes from lowering the rear.
Had this same issue... I didn't notice the inside wear until it was almost too late... I've never seen a tire show that much cord before and not pop. I replaced them ASAP. The guy at the shop said they design them that way for a reason, something about if you take a corner too fast they help keep it under control... but I don't know, that doesn't make sense to me...
No the front is where the strut rub is! What his problem is in the rear, with spring sag and if it is going to be lowered then you need the rear camber kits to make the rear adjustable to correct for the negative camber that comes from lowering the rear. As Phil stated a Rear camber Kit Will work as Well as a New set of Rear Springs You may want to try our 0 drop springs That will get you started....Frank
I had such bad inner tire wear that traveling on the interstate my rear passanger tire shreaaded and some of the debree severed my evapharness by the gas inlet inside and destroyed all the wirring.And yet the tire never went flat.The rear driver side also got to the point that the wires were showing only on the inside.I called gm today about it and they said that is normal wear from taking corners hard also!
For how many miles are the stock rear springs good for? I drive solo 90% of the time, and never a rear passenger. Car is 6/06 build, and with 4,300 miles, as a reference. Car is driven sedately all the time, but suspension feels harsh. Maybe the 18s are to blame a bit, but my Vette had much better ride, and better handling as well.
This car was just past the problematic strut rub, so don't know what the heck was put on. Rear seems lower than the front because rear tire is much closer to the fender, but that's probably just the design, as the lower sill looks parallel to the floor.
Oh, and my front strut squeaks on small bumps; what the hell is it? It's not leaking, but it's annoying. Forutnately, it's only heard with the window down, which I rarely have.
How easy is to replace rear springs? Can it be done by myself?
If I end up keeping my car (very likely -it's for sale now, but won't give it away), what's the best way to go? I want a better ride, and no squeaking, but don't want to spend a fortune, especially in labor. Seems like the front require a shop for sure, plus alingment (ouch!). Thanks gang.
JC