With all of the confusion about intakes and cold air intakes, I will give you my experience w/ returning back to the stock intake. I just removed my K&N CAI system and put the stock airbox and tube back on the car. I did not put the headlight backside cover piece on b/c some of my tranny cooling lines for my aftermarket cooler are in the way.
Well my mods are as follows: TR224/224 .563/.563 114LSA cam, 3400Stall converter, patriot valvesprings, Bypassed TB, SLP Long Tubes, dual 3" exhaust with glasspacks, High flow cats. I might be missing one or two more minor mods.
The reason I wanted to put the stock intake system back on is for the stealth look. I want to be able to pop the hood and have my engine almost look stock. Currently the stock air filter is back on the car but I will be replacing that as soon as my K&N drop in filter arrives.
Anyways, I cranked the car up and nothing so far is different. I let it warm up and tapped the throttle a few times and the only difference I saw was very miniscule. It seemed to have maybe a little less throttle response, but it might just be in my head. If I am right though, I am talking the worse response is so minimal I can barely tell.
I took it out on the street and put it to the floor. The only difference I experienced is a little less engine noise but the throttle response seems to be a little less than w/ the K&N system. But again the throttle response is almost exactly the same. But I think the K&N drop in filter will put it back to the way it was.
However, the car seemed to pull just as hard w/ the stock system. I seriously thought that I would be able to tell the difference since my car is cammed and what not. But it seemed to glue me back to my seat just as hard.
So here you go:
K&N Intake:
Throttle Response- Seemed to pick up a little more than stock
Butt dyno up top- Could not feel a difference over stock
Mileage- W/ the cam and a mixture of H and C driving I would usually get around 17.8 to 19 mpg
IAT- Would almost equal the ambient air temp outside when driving at higher speeds but would heat up quickly when cruising at lower speeds.
Stock Intake:
Throttle response- Seemed to be a little worse than w/ the K&N Intake but remember the stock air filter is in and a K&N replacement filter will be here soon. However, seemed to be almost the same, difference is so minimal. Update: After driving more I am now certain that the throttle response is worse than the K&N system.
Butt dyno up top- Seemed exactly the same as the K&N intake. Still pushed my into my seat just as hard.
Mileage- I will let you know after about a week of driving.
IAT- So far after a 45 mile drive, the IAT is reading about an average of 5-10 degrees warmer than the K&N Intake did. Update: Seemed today the IAT's were about 15-20 degrees above the average w/ the K&N System.
By the way I have whats called a scangauge 2. It is pretty much the same thing as the dashhawk and that is how I know what the IAT is. I will update this thread as I monitor the difference throughout this week.
Alex
K&N system was only worth 5hp on my car. Dyno tested Stock vs K&N. The K&N system is crap.
Not to mention the amount of dirt that gets past a K&N:
http://www.ls2gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=200700
K&N system was only worth 5hp on my car. Dyno tested Stock vs K&N. The K&N system is crap. Was that w/ the cam or without?
its an airfilter, what did you expect? The stock airbox isn't exactly restrictive
Not to mention the amount of dirt that gets past a K&N:
http://www.ls2gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=200700 So they let more crap past, but they also have half of the restriction of the AC Delco. I guess it's just a question of what's more important to you. A little more engine wear, or a little more airflow. Would've been nice to see them test other "performance" filters to see if any of them fare better at filtering/flow.
An oil analysis can help you guage engine wear and what's in there.....
Thanks for this informative post. I think I'll stick with the stock filter (especially since my dealer just gave a free one today - it's a promotion after the CA wildfires.)
Butt meters are the absolute worst things to use when deciding if a mod makes more power.
i hate to say but he's right^ and as far as the rest the best way to test for street-with-the-hood-down-power is to take it to the strip and check a few trap speeds with each unit. then heat soak you engine, note the IAT, floor it and see how long it takes to get down to near ambient. measurable and accurate testing
So they let more crap past, but they also have half of the restriction of the AC Delco. I guess it's just a question of what's more important to you. A little more engine wear, or a little more airflow. Would've been nice to see them test other "performance" filters to see if any of them fare better at filtering/flow. Agree, since mine is a DD, I really don't care if a K&N gives me a few more horses. The lower restriction of the K&N would most likely matter only near WOT, so not a big deal for my driving. I'll keep with the less wear choice while I'm sure many will take the more airflow route
Update on IAT. I just made a 45 mile drive w/ some traffic. I would say the average IAT is now 5-10 degrees higher over the K&N Intake.
I still feel no difference in performance though. You can say that the butt dyno will tell you nothing but I don't care. My car pulls just as hard, I will take it to the track one of these days and see if there is a difference. I believe the only gain will come from the temps. being about 5-10 degrees cooler. Again we are talking about 2-6 rwhp. There is no way you can feel that.
I am not trying to cause controversy w/ this thread I am just trying to share my experiences.
Alex
i noticed my car running what seemed to be a lot better after the K&N install. it just seemed like the stock system choked the car down a bit.
ok...short story/hijack...my buddy and i live a couple blocks from each other, both catback only mods, would race dead even everytime. i bought a k&n cai...we race and i pull everytime 3rd 40mph to the top of 3rd. both 1/2 tank of gas. both weigh the same.
when i say pull him every time i swear its just barely! like a 1/2" every second to a total of about a 1/2 fender at the top of 3rd. consistant. needless to say hes got a k&n now!! LOL we have yet to run'em...
have a feeling well be even again so kooks are coming!!!:).
ok...short story/hijack...my buddy and i live a couple blocks from each other, both catback only mods, would race dead even everytime. i bought a k&n cai...we race and i pull everytime 3rd 40mph to the top of 3rd. both 1/2 tank of gas. both weigh the same.
when i say pull him every time i swear its just barely! like a 1/2" every second to a total of about a 1/2 fender at the top of 3rd. consistant. needless to say hes got a k&n now!! LOL we have yet to run'em...
have a feeling well be even again so kooks are coming!!!:). i think any larger filter, basically the $40-$50 filter you're buying for $250-$350, is going to give better performance as they both pull from about the same area but have a less restrictive flow. as rpm and flow efficiency of the engine goes up it will be more apparent. the IAT test is going to tell the difference but like i said getting a temp drop after several minutes of highway driving is a pretty crappy "C"AI
I like my Volant a lot. Keeps dirt out and IAT's down:)
i think any larger filter, basically the $40-$50 filter you're buying for $250-$350, is going to give better performance as they both pull from about the same area but have a less restrictive flow. as rpm and flow efficiency of the engine goes up it will be more apparent. the IAT test is going to tell the difference but like i said getting a temp drop after several minutes of highway driving is a pretty crappy "C"AI yes very true. glad i got a deal on mine! lol
On a tuned Cammed LS2's -------> Airflow means way more than IAT's.
A Volant will keep IAT's down but doesnt really flow that great.
We took the top off a Volant and gained 7hp on a Dyno.
Unless you do straight up city driving and you are cammed, anything is better than the OEM box
IMO
While I think The Volant flows great...I think keeping IAT's are the most important thing at the track as they seem to be an issue every time I run the GTO..even with Volant because it get's so hot here. Anything the can help is good. I have a hard time beleiving the Volant airbox is so restrictive it costs 7 HP unless you have a sock in the main intake duct.
On a tuned Cammed LS2's -------> Airflow means way more than IAT's.
A Volant will keep IAT's down but doesnt really flow that great.
We took the top off a Volant and gained 7hp on a Dyno.
Unless you do straight up city driving and you are cammed, anything is better than the OEM box
IMO
Granted there are a million variables between dyno runs but that is what I saw.
No other changes.
While I think The Volant flows great...I think keeping IAT's are the most important thing at the track as they seem to be an issue every time I run the GTO..even with Volant because it get's so hot here. Anything the can help is good. I have a hard time beleiving the Volant airbox is so restrictive it costs 7 HP unless you have a sock in the main intake duct. Ask BJShubert, I believe he gained 15hp from removing the lid on his Volant. The volant with the lid is barely any different from the STOCK intake design.
On my S10 the CAI didnt add much at all. about4.5 But it does sound better than stock, i think some people like that...
and its a different motor...
Im starting to hear alot of bad things with the volant..Does it really flow that bad??
And what is the best intake that is sold then..The LPE?
Im starting to hear alot of bad things with the volant..Does it really flow that bad??
And what is the best intake that is sold then..The LPE? when someone tells you it's great and everybody uses it ask what the IATs are at heat soaked idle, within 15 seconds of takeoff and how long to get down to within say 10* of ambient. then ask what the MAPs are at 5.5K and up.
Update.......Well I am actually amazed at the info I am getting from my scangauge. I would say my IAT are up by 15-20 degrees over the K&N system!!
My father and I did not think it would be any different between the two systems but the temp. is def. running hotter than it use to. I think it is die to the stock airbox heating up b/c the air is being drawn from the same area that the K&N system was pulling it from. SO we have come to conclusion that the box has got to be what is making the IAT 15-20 degrees warmer.
Also, I am for sure now that the throtle response is less with the stock system and I bet that the extra power thst you gain from an after market kit is from that drop in the IAT.
Needless to say I am shopping for another intake:wall:
However, I feel that I have learned some good info from this little experiment. I will most likely be purchasing an LS1 Speed intake or a New Era intake.
Alex
Very nice!

Hey fellas, im brand spanking new here even tho I've been learning from this site for a yr now. I have a personal issue with my key and figured who can help any more then the actually member of the GTO community. I lost my 1st set of keys 7 months ago so i towed my car to the nearest dealership and had them order a key, cut and program it but i didnt have the original program code because im its 2nd owner. I lost the new key (1 month ago) but found the spare key (yesterday) but when i tried to open the car which has been locked for the last month and made the battery die (i cant figure out how to turn off stupid radio and gauges display when the cars off) so i cant use the remote. I figured ill manually open it but it'll turn in the lock perfectly fine but wont unlock the key. Is this because the battery is died so the keys security cant be read even while unlocking the door kinda like the ignition works or is it possible the dealership screwed the original program to make the new key.
The dealership is saying that the key might not belong to my car but it does, I've never ordered a replacement key outside of pontiac and if thats the case why does it even turn in the door?
It's a power lock, not manual. If the battery's dead, how is it supposed to pop the lock open?
i think he's right. the locks are purely electronic. i used to have an issue with mine where the passenger doorlock actuator was bad. so the passenger door would stay unlocked, even if you pressed "lock" on the remote. the funny thing with it is that you had to have the car's locks in the "lock" position to physically move the plunger down. with the car "unlocked" it wouldn't budge. (this actually resulted in me turning off my car, waiting for the passenger to exit, clost both doors, pressing "lock", locking the passenger door, pressing "unlock", getting out, and pressing "lock" again)
i suspect that turning a key in the door works the same way. unlike older power door locks where they were both mechanical and electronic, turning the key simply tells the car's computer "unlock the door", as opposed to mechanically unlocking the door.
man, you need to pay more attention to where you leave your keys!
Its the evil key wreaking havoc! Beware!
I believe he said he tried to turn it in the keyhole manually, but others have had the same problem of not being able to get it open manually.
Some have posted that if you can unlatch the hood and hook up battery jumper cables then you can use the remote.
Hey your GTO has a sunroof, thats cool.
Thanks.
I believe he said he tried to turn it in the keyhole manually, but others have had the same problem of not being able to get it open manually.
Some have posted that if you can unlatch the hood and hook up battery jumper cables then you can use the remote. I wish my car wasnt locked in the 1st place so i could get into it and try that lol, unless theres a trick to unlatching the hood, anyone?.... ill search for that thread as well
i suspect that turning a key in the door works the same way. unlike older power door locks where they were both mechanical and electronic, turning the key simply tells the car's computer "unlock the door", as opposed to mechanically unlocking the door. Thanks, I pretty much figured that but needed to know for sure.
man, you need to pay more attention to where you leave your keys! lol i kno i kno, I suspect my family is involved with my missing keys. My keys were missing for awhile and my parents always blamed my friends that maybe they are jealous and took them. Me and my dad weren't to cool but recently me and him started bonding and he started blaming my sister for the missing keys (shes another hater) but he told me the next day to check my bedroom but was unusually pushy about it like he was sure i would find it there. All of a sudden my mom sent me to the store and I called me girlfriend and told her what had happened and that i bet they will put the keys in my room in a spot i would never EVER look. So i went home and immediately checked my dresser by pullin out my draw and sure enough hidden under my draw was my spare key..... what a friggin coinsidence hmmm. I had no reason to hide that key, why would it be there.... so i was too happy to get mad so I laughed it off and thought to myself what a bunch of haters. Why couldnt he suggest the living room, family room, kitchen etc? It's way too suspicious

lol i kno i kno, I suspect my family is involved with my missing keys. My keys were missing for awhile and my parents always blamed my friends that maybe they are jealous and took them. Me and my dad weren't to cool but recently me and him started bonding and he started blaming my sister for the missing keys (shes another hater) but he told me the next day to check my bedroom but was unusually pushy about it like he was sure i would find it there. All of a sudden my mom sent me to the store and I called me girlfriend and told her what had happened and that i bet they will put the keys in my room in a spot i would never EVER look. So i went home and immediately checked my dresser by pullin out my draw and sure enough hidden under my draw was my spare key..... what a friggin coinsidence hmmm. I had no reason to hide that key, why would it be there.... so i was too happy to get mad so I laughed it off and thought to myself what a bunch of haters. Why couldnt he suggest the living room, family room, kitchen etc? It's way too suspicious what a terrible situation that is..good luck in the future

Guys post up your winter mod list or winter wish list. I would like to address the drivetrain further with some hd axles and driveshaft. If money permits further addressing the fuel system and forging the bottom end. Possibly getting rid of the spoiler and going with the Autoform unit. :D
Single piece driveshaft, LT headers, tune.
Yeah I saw some nice looking gtos at the fall brawl without spoilers. Good luck with those mods. Have you given any more thought to your very own pair of L92s?
I'm going to address my suspension, maybe add a few little mods (throttle body spacer and UDP) but its pretty much going to stay the way it is for a while.
Pedders!!!
Yeah I saw some nice looking gtos at the fall brawl without spoilers. Good luck with those mods. Have you given any more thought to your very own pair of L92s?
I'm going to address my suspension, maybe add a few little mods (throttle body spacer and UDP) but its pretty much going to stay the way it is for a while. Yeah I have been thinking of them. When I go forged if I can swing them too it may happen.
procharger, stroker kit, heads, cam, and pedders. will it happen, i doubt it, but its a good wish.
ls7 clutch has arrived,heads are on the way,and last but not least some drag radials. trying to go for 400 rwhp. i hope the heads can get me there
fast 90/NW90 on the way and need to address my broken CV. so add driveshaft and stub to hub to the list
Pedders
Headers
potentially some spray....
make it though...
working on getting some LTs and some DRs wish Santa or the 3 wise man would give me procharger
Keep the posts comming guys. Lots of good plans. :)
kooks LT's & brakes
Triple gauge pod
Single Interceptor
APS twin pump, -10 lines, front mount regulator
Ensure E85 material compatibility (tank, lines, pump, injectors)
Re design/relocate power steering reservoir and lines
Desdenova
New shifter (****ing B&M)
Big tires
3.91's
secret mods
Kooks are on order. Possibly some pedders. I have to get some of the other project cars back together so the GTO will have to wait.
Definately a lpe fuel pump and a 125 wet shot but if I play my cards right a fast intake, roller rockers and pedders.
cam and LS7 clutch. maybe ported tb and intake.
LS7 Clutch
3.91's
Billet Shifter
DBA XS Gold Rotors
MSD Coils
1. fix my clutch issue. im going to need a tex.
2. maybe some pedders
3. possibly spray... 125 wet shot
I like my tex oz700 z grip that's for sure.
snow tires?
slp longtubes, drag bags or drag springs, gmm rip shifter, and maybe a fast 90 manifold if i have some money left.
Oh, and tint. really dark tint.:secret:
DMS spoiler
Eibach springs
Koni Struts
& Install my G5x3 , 918s (I know...), and titanium retainers
1. Spec Stage 4 clutch with steel flywheel, fbody slave, throwout bearing, possible remote bleeder
2. AEM wideband (have)
3. sport comp II mech vac/boost (too lazy to go to a shop and buy it)
4. catless mids (coming tuesday)
5. SCSS gator pod (have)
6. Methanol (if i save up)
7. start looking to forge entire rotating assembly ... mayb go to a 383 stroker
8. would love a billet shifter, but prolly outta the price range for now
9. probally gona need some new tires as well soon
10. mech boost controller
1. DBAs over Christmas
2. Cam/Weiand intake late winter weather permitting
Snow Tires
GMM Shifter
Rock/salt chips from the snowy roads :shiner:
Pedders....
So far
Pedders Diff Insert
Heat soak reduction kit
Vig 2800 and tranny cooler.
I'll see if I can spend anymore money this winter.

i was wanting to purchase the new bezel and holden phone buttons. p/n 92111637, 92111641, 92172330(as listed in the knowledge base) anybody know where can i purchase these. thanks
i was wanting to purchase the new bezel and holden phone buttons. p/n 92111637, 92111641, 92172330(as listed in the knowledge base) anybody know where can i purchase these. thanks http://www.jhp.com.au/monaro-gto/
i dont want the whole kit, i just want the switches and the bezel. i couldnt find that on jhp's website.
Email them your parts list and they will get just what you want.

I've had a problem with my pass side door lock. Sometimes when I unlock the doors the pass side won't fully unlock. The lever will raise but sometimes it won't raise enough to actually unlock the door. I naturally thought this was a problem with the actuator, but when I took my car to the dealer they told me it is a problem with the computer. They put a new computer on order and said they will call me when it comes in, but that still sounded kinda fishy to me. I did a little research on the forums and it seems the most likely problem is the actuator. So.... do I just let them replace the computer and report the problem again? I think if I try to correct them they will get that "we are techs, we know best" attitude. The whole situation has me confused, how could the computer possibly cause the pass side door lock to not fully disengage? And if this is as stupid as it sounds, how could these techs even think this is the problem?
You should suggest that they look at the latch first. I recently had unplugged my air bag when replacing the switches in the steering wheel. It set an airbag code that needed a tech2 to clear it. I brought it into the dealer and told them what had happened. At first the service rep kinda blew me off and said they reset after some time so it may be a real problem. I told him I had read some forums about the issue and the airbag fault doesn't reset without a tech2. He listened and when it was done told me that was the problem. So I asked about my sticky door lock on the drivers side. The tech told me that it was the latch assembly that sticks and he had had limited success cleaning the rubber and lubricating the action. So tell the service manager that you did some research that points to the latch assembly. They should lubricate it and see if it works for a while before swaping out the computer. IMO
My 2004 had the same problem. It was the actuator, it kind of trys to move the latch, but couldnt and eventually stopped working completely. If the other door is working fine, it's not a computer thing.