I think after seeing the inside of my throttle body w/ dried oil in it, i'm going to break down and purchase an EE catch can. I was wondering though...i have seen guys run other systems to avoid the blow by oil problem, but over all, what are the opinions out there on what's most effective. I'm thinking the catch can b/c it's simple and effective being i'm not going to be running turbo induction or anything....what do you all think?
I think a catch can is a great idea! Im waiting on mine to be delivered tomorrow. Check with Jamesbizs on here. He has an awesome can for sale!!
I'm happy with my EE. It seems to work well. I have no idea of what percentage it catches, but it does catch a fair amount. I'd sure recommend one. It's one of the two mods I have done.
Im happy with my EE can. It does catch some of the oil, but Im not really sure the percentage either. About an ounce every oil change. (3k miles or storage time, which ever is first.)
I also have the EE. Haven't seen any other better built, or better designed IMO. Takes a second to unscrew the bottom and empty the contents.
I'd just steer clear of the 'cheapo' HomeDepot variety, but any other will do the job; not rocket science. It's just a matter of looks and price. Just get one. Later.
JC
I get about one ounce in 3000 miles. So far I've caught 6+ ounces of oil that didn't get a chance to foul my engine, thats good in my book. If I was really anal I'd stick a paper fuel filter after the catch can to catch any oil missed.
Best non hp mod you can do.
Theres nothing wrong with the "cheapo" home depot catch can. It does the exact same thing just doesn't look as good. If you got the rediculous amount of money these things cost to spend then go for it. Some of us "cheapos" would rather save that extra cash for some go fast goodies. Good investment no matter how much you spend so go for it.
I think a catch can is a great idea! Im waiting on mine to be delivered tomorrow. Check with Jamesbizs on here. He has an awesome can for sale!! Here are a couple of shots of the catch can I just finished installing. Took about 15 minutes or so....
Great looking can & engine bay ELESTWO!!
My EE can works great and it's over half full after 7K+ miles. So, they do the jobs that they're suppose to do.
Great looking can & engine bay ELESTWO!!
My EE can works great and it's over half full after 7K+ miles. So, they do the jobs that they're suppose to do. Thank you very much!! She's getting there!! A few more things from Jamesbizs and Ill be ready for the show circuit!!!
the catch can from EE is the best one buy far, but im biased on that cuz they are really close and local to the colorado folks lol.
i like my ee setup, but the filter fell out when i checked it last. i put some thread locker on it and its been good ever since. the ee silver catch can matches the engine bay very well and almost looks factory
Where can i get these oil catch can?
Go to search, and type in "catch can" for thread title.
Next, pick any flavor you want.
Link doesn't work
http://eliteengineeringusa.com/GTO_Products.html
Theres nothing wrong with the "cheapo" home depot catch can. It does the exact same thing just doesn't look as good. If you got the rediculous amount of money these things cost to spend then go for it. Some of us "cheapos" would rather save that extra cash for some go fast goodies. Good investment no matter how much you spend so go for it.
I'm sorry, but I gotta disagree with ya. I had the cheapo one and now I have the jamesbiz one. The jamesbiz one catches as much oil in 1 week that my cheapo one did in 2 months.
1 Attachment(s) Factory look...
Painted my brass fittings to match my EE CC too. Looks better IMO.
Painted my brass fittings to match my EE CC too. Looks better IMO.
Almost looks like you had the fittings chromed, nice job.
3000 miles on my AMW...
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Almost looks like you had the fittings chromed, nice job. Thanks, it was chrome paint. Had a hard time deciding if I wanted to paint it black like yours so the fittings would match the tubing. Still a toss up which I like best.
No Catch Can here. Plug the tube on the Intake and run two lines.
I just vent the lines down under the car.
Since there is no vacuum on the lines there is very little oil residue coming out of them.
I'm sorry, but I gotta disagree with ya. I had the cheapo one and now I have the jamesbiz one. The jamesbiz one catches as much oil in 1 week that my cheapo one did in 2 months. And the cheapo one will crack, but guess this guy wants to learn the hard way (that's the one I had on my Vette). I did it right on the GTO. That damn EE can would survive a nuclear blast < he he>. Later.
JC
you guys have forced me to paint the fitting to match after seeing your pics. i have extra black engine paint so i guess im using that

I just ordered a set of 8 NGK TR55 spark plugs for my '06 m6. If i topped it off with some msd wires would that be an acceptable first mod? Any significant gain in hp/tq?
doubt it. i noticed a 1 or 2 mpg increase when i did it though. i honestly believe the best first mod for any gto is sticky rear tires.
+1...I got the msd wires and ngk plugs and noticed a slight difference in mpg...1st mod id probably do is tires or an intake, hell just get some headers!
I'm not so tire smart, anywhere anyone knows where is good to read up about them or learn about them? or if you can't just throw some ideas at me of what to buy and why you think that.
Get a GMM ripshift shifter. Best mod a M6 gto can have. Its a day and night difference in shifting and no more guessing if your in 3rd or you push it over too much and think your going into 5th and instead get that reverse grind.
GMM Ripshifter foe sure!!!
longtubes, no hp gain for plugs and wires.
No gains at all really.
Long tubes for the first mod!
Plugs and wires did not net me any performance gains either, I did it more for something to do on the car over a winter. I think the proper gapping of the new stuff was benneficial over the wierd gapping of the stockers.

Gmm ripshift or headers are great first mods.
Yea I will be getting 1 7/8 long tubes in the future as well as h/c
Can't decide between American Racing or Kooks, any suggestions?

How much are these? I broke the clips near the tweeters on mine replacing the tweeters. They are a BITCH to get off! Since I don't plan on taking them off again (except to replace), I don't have to worry about breaking them again, so I need replacements.
if these are the semi-triangular ones that are on the doors that blow air on to the driver and passenger door windows, they are $50 a piece.
No.. they are the ones for the windshield. The ones that run between the dash and windshield that you have to take off to get to the stock tweeters.
But, if the sail panels are that expensive, I'm scared of what these are going to cost!!
However, that doesn't always mean much. On my Grand Prix, the very small oval that held the alarm LED and auto headlight sensor was about $50, yet the long ass (it was a 2 door) kick panel/door sill panel was only $15.
Do a search for me and tweeter install. I explain how to get them off without breaking them. YOu have to start at the center of the windshield and work towards the side while chanting some unknown words.
Yea... I tried that...
On the first one, I wasn't chanting until it came off, then I was screaming words that the site profanity filter doesn't even know yet. On the passenger side, since I already knew how to break them, I was chanting "please don't break" and was going much slower. Didn't do any good.. It still broke.
But I definately started from the middle and worked my way to the tweeter on both. Bad luck I guess :(
I checked a while back and I want to say it was something obscene like $95/ side...but I don't remember exactly.
Owe.
thanks though :(
I know it's too late now but...

Here is a link to the parts you are looking for. I believe numbers 6 and 7 are what you need. They are $64.64 each plus shipping ($12.54 according to the site).
Yes, 6 and 7 are what I need. $65 isn't as bad as $95, but still pricey. May have to wait a bit, but I'll have to get them (can't stand knowing my car is "broke", lol).
Thanks for the link!
I know it's too late now but...
I used that when I took them off. It's not "knowing the procedure", it was "getting them off" that was the problem. I had nothing I could use to "pull at an angle towards the rear of the car".

I have read numerous threads on the subject, and i think i have a solution, let me know what you think.

I have lost a key and need a new spare, I have the security card and i also have my old 2005 keys, I heard that the transmitter from the old car can not be re programmed, so i need a blank key and a fob and can program it manualy via the method in a previous thread (and use the screws from the old 2005 key)

sound correct?
You need a cut key, not a blank (getting one cut is next to impossible), new fob and the two screws.
Then you can program it in the car.
can the dealer in the states cut it without me being there?
CAN they? Probably - all they really need is the key code, and they have that. But WILL they? It's very doubtfull, but you might luck out. However, they are unable to test they key (to be sure they cut it right) without the car.
I didn't think many dealers had the right "die" (if that's what they call them) for the key machine to cut them.
Most of them had to order the key pre-cut from Detroit. The "die" required kept getting pushed back but may be available now (not sure)
I do however doubt that any dealer with order and ship you a key. They have rules about keys that you need several forms of proof of ownership.
Now the dealer you bought from might do it for you. (best chance)
You can get fobs from anywhere though (just make sure it is new and a 3 button one, doesn't matter what symbol is on the back of the fob) and just program it yourself in car, and yes you can use the screws from the old one.
I didn't think many dealers had the right "die" (if that's what they call them) for the key machine to cut them.
Most of them had to order the key pre-cut from Detroit. The "die" required kept getting pushed back but may be available now (not sure)
I do however doubt that any dealer with order and ship you a key. They have rules about keys that you need several forms of proof of ownership.
Now the dealer you bought from might do it for you. (best chance)
You can get fobs from anywhere though (just make sure it is new and a 3 button one, doesn't matter what symbol is on the back of the fob) and just program it yourself in car, and yes you can use the screws from the old one. just got word that they will send me a lazer cut key and new fob, key is 93.93 and fob is 40.97

Modifications do not happen in a vacuum. There are consequences to actions taken. If you do one thing, it may affect another area immediately.... or.... not so immediately.
For example only, I've lowered cars before with FWD. Generally, I've found that doing so creates a host of problems, including having to replace CV joints more often as they are subject to increased wear and tear due to boots being prematurely ripped or exposed to lower-ground dangers. And I pop struts more often.
So the consequences of lowering would be possibly (but not always confined to):
1) increased shock/strut replacement intervals
2) increased CV joint replacement
3) CV boot replacement more often ------> which, if not done, can lead to bearing failure when the grease flys out of the damaged boots, creating not only an environment for worn CV joints, but possibly creating increased vibrations from non-lubricated moving parts that can damage the balance of the 1/2 shafts and then lead possibly to premature transmission damage.
This is but one of dozens of conditions of an "If this, then..." cause/effect relationship between OEM parts replaced with aftermarket ones.
headers great mod, but leads to a cam ,cam leads to heads, heads lead to intake .
still never enough power
leads to anger ,anger leads to suffering .(in my yoda voice)
lmfao
you forgot...headers lead to cat-back, cat back lead to po-po giving you a ticket, ticket lead to anger, etc
A shorter gear ratio leads to better acceleration, the need to shift more often, and a possible decrease in gas mileage.
So, don't lower your car, or you will get the AIDS.
the car leads to a dragstrip, which leads to a shitty time, which leads you to spend more money, which leads you back to the dragstrip, which leads you do dump more money, which leads you to get faster, which leads you to break shit, which leads you to upgrade shit...ahhh...
To get to your point, any failure attributed to a modification could void your warranty on the affected items. Not always, but usually yes. BUT not on the rest of the car.
Most members are aware of those consequences, I'm sure, but do them anyway. I prefer not to. Good luck.
JC
headers great mod, but leads to a cam ,cam leads to heads, heads lead to intake .
still never enough power
leads to anger ,anger leads to suffering .(in my yoda voice) Sounds like the story of my goat..I am currently at stage "cam leads to heads"..
Headers lead to cam...absolutely....im doing the FAST 90 with the cam, heads later.
Its funny, when I drove this car the first 500 miles I was like .."well I might tint it, put some wheels on it, but this bitch sure doesnt need any more power..." Yeah right.. HAHA
10 years ago 400 hp / 400 tq would have been plenty.
now its just stock ,the price of hot-rodding lol.
now 500hp is plenty till you get to 500hp
, well if i ........................
Change to long tubes
then Drag radials are a must
Change the cam
then heads are a must.
Once the H/C package is in
Then you need a cage!
Once the cage is in
then bigger H/C is required.
Sounds like the story of my goat..I am currently at stage "cam leads to heads"..
LOL I've got new brakes coming but after that there is nothing left to do unless I go with a larger motor, BUT my current motor still works fine DAMIT.
Look \/, this was supposed to "just be a maggie." 28K later. . .
I bought a Predator tuner, which led to getting a Volant and insulating it....
I've been secretly looking at long tube headers with impure thoughts.
When will the madness end....
:oldfogey:
LOL I've got new brakes coming but after that there is nothing left to do unless I go with a larger motor, BUT my current motor still works fine DAMIT. I think you need new wheels too.....then send me the ones you have to put on my BBM 04.......Army pay + goat + mods = BROKE!:cursin:
Sweet, I'll switch to the SP551 LOL
Bonezelite -- no one has answered your question. Too bad, there are probably a bunch of us that would like to know the answer from those that have done that mod. I'm interested in long tubes but don't want to deal with the unknown bs consequences, if there are any, since I would have to keep bringing the car to mechanic/installer.
Anyone have any answers? I've seen previous posts by using the "search" function about 02 sensors, steering rack probs if tubes not installed properly, tuning issues.
I don't see a question in the OP's post.
I just see examples.
Adding a Blower will make your clutch CRY. Then maybe the CV axle will let go down the road.
Is there something specific your looking for?
Bonezelite -- no one has answered your question. Too bad, there are probably a bunch of us that would like to know the answer from those that have done that mod. I'm interested in long tubes but don't want to deal with the unknown bs consequences, if there are any, since I would have to keep bringing the car to mechanic/installer.
Anyone have any answers? I've seen previous posts by using the "search" function about 02 sensors, steering rack probs if tubes not installed properly, tuning issues. Yes, it has taken a while for anyone to respond.
This is simply meant for anyone and everyone with experiences to simply do a simple write up about the cause/effect relationships between removing OEM parts and upgrading to aftermarket. Very simple.
There's always a hidden consequence to certain actions. As much fun as mods can be, they can also be a PITA to live with.
If you have any first-hand experiences, little things that you'd never know unless you actually did it, please tell. All kinds are welcome here.
headers great mod, but leads to a cam ,cam leads to heads, heads lead to intake .
still never enough power
leads to anger ,anger leads to suffering .(in my yoda voice) :iagree: LOL!!!!
I hear what you're saying, but if one is worried about what will happen if something is modded, then they might not be the right type to worry. Ofcourse, one should be informed, but that should be the end of it. Modding is a sickness, it doesn't stop no matter how hard you try. Modding kills warranties and angers wives. Modding kills gas milage due to having fun with the mods and wears parts harder for the same.
One needs to pay to play, thats the bottom line.
Yes, it has taken a while for anyone to respond.
This is simply meant for anyone and everyone with experiences to simply do a simple write up about the cause/effect relationships between removing OEM parts and upgrading to aftermarket. Very simple.
There's always a hidden consequence to certain actions. As much fun as mods can be, they can also be a PITA to live with.
If you have any first-hand experiences, little things that you'd never know unless you actually did it, please tell. All kinds are welcome here. Here you go....
Swap out stock cam for one that's a little "radical", car runs like a raped ape at WOT. Now car is a dog until 3500 rpm, surges at highway speeds, has very little throttle response and fuel mileage suffers. Because of cam swap, rear gears are needed to get the engine back into it's power range, less surging on the highway and mileage suffers some more. Car is still a dog up to 3500, but that happens earlier due to the 4.11 gears.:cry:
Swap out torque converter for 3500 stall, now car pulls out like it did before the cam swap in normal driving, mileage suffers some more.
End result...Bad ass sounding Cutlass that will kick ass in the 1/4 mile but is undriveable on the highway and gets 6 mpg. It went from a fun cruiser to a PITA that never went anywhere anymore.
:oldfogey:
LOL....I...........um............................. ............. :D
Never mind.
Gerry
Here you go....
Swap out stock cam for one that's a little "radical", car runs like a raped ape at WOT. Now car is a dog until 3500 rpm, surges at highway speeds, has very little throttle response and fuel mileage suffers. Because of cam swap, rear gears are needed to get the engine back into it's power range, less surging on the highway and mileage suffers some more. Car is still a dog up to 3500, but that happens earlier due to the 4.11 gears.:cry:
Swap out torque converter for 3500 stall, now car pulls out like it did before the cam swap in normal driving, mileage suffers some more.
End result...Bad ass sounding Cutlass that will kick ass in the 1/4 mile but is undriveable on the highway and gets 6 mpg. It went from a fun cruiser to a PITA that never went anywhere anymore.
:oldfogey: LOL!!!!
That sounds like a pointless nightmare!!
Change to FI = change of underwear.;)
LOL!!!!
That sounds like a pointless nightmare!! That was hot rodding up until the late '80's and EFI.
Look at all the fun you missed.
:oldfogey:
That was hot rodding up until the late '80's and EFI.
Look at all the fun you missed.
:oldfogey: Fun, I had no fun. The only fun was driving once everything was set right. The after 5K it's needs tweaking again.
My 71 Z28/RS always needed something adjusted and it was stock. Dam solid cam shafts and Holly carb’s.
OMG I just realized I owned a car that was unmodified. :cry:
Modifications -> More Modifications -> Wife Finds Out -> Jewelry
Changing to an aftermarket Air Intake with an exposed filter element can lead to more dirt getting through the filter, which will eventually dirty up the MAF, which causes it to read incorrectly, which causes the ECU to dump more fuel than normal, which causes a CEL and a code for rich condition.
This happened to me, I just took off the MAF, cleaned the wires (carefully!) with a Q-tip, put it back together, and no more CEL.