My aftermarket pump is going bad already, I'm replacing it today.
The first swap my buddy did while I was out of town. Are there any special tools or techniques needed to do this, like something to take off the filler tube?
I searched and couldn't find anything.
Anyone who has drilled the bucket themselves, do you think it's worth it also? Any issues?
Thanks,
Scott
Ok I found this good thread, but the straps on the rear side of the tank do not want to come up after unbolting from underneath the car. WD40, wiggle, pull everything.

Ok I found this good thread, but the straps on the rear side of the tank do not want to come up after unbolting from underneath the car. WD40, wiggle, pull everything.
take the nuts off the top attach point for the strap, once those are off, rock the straps back toward you then pull out from the car....
My aftermarket pump is going bad already, I'm replacing it today.
The first swap my buddy did while I was out of town. Are there any special tools or techniques needed to do this, like something to take off the filler tube?
I searched and couldn't find anything.

Anyone who has drilled the bucket themselves, do you think it's worth it also? Any issues?

Thanks,
Scott If you're running a Walbro or other aftermarket pump in the stock bucket, and it's not drilled, the pump will almost certainly fail prematurely, unless you never let your fuel level fall below about 1/3 tank. A higher capacity pump can empty the bucket much faster than than it can fill itself through the small venturi. As levels in the bucket drop, the pump is no longer fully immersed in fuel and will rapidly overheat, as it is completely dependent on surrounding fuel to remain at a safe operating temperature. Of course, drilling the bucket necessitates keeping the tank just as full, because the venturi will no longer fill the bucket above the tank level. An 8.1L bucket with dual venturis will allow you to have your cake and eat it too, within reason.
take the nuts off the top attach point for the strap, once those are off, rock the straps back toward you then pull out from the car.... It would have helped if I had taken the right nuts off. I got everything all pulled apart.
Thanks
If you're running a Walbro or other aftermarket pump in the stock bucket, and it's not drilled, the pump will almost certainly fail prematurely, unless you never let your fuel level fall below about 1/3 tank. A higher capacity pump can empty the bucket much faster than than it can fill itself through the small venturi. As levels in the bucket drop, the pump is no longer fully immersed in fuel and will rapidly overheat, as it is completely dependent on surrounding fuel to remain at a safe operating temperature. Of course, drilling the bucket necessitates keeping the tank just as full, because the venturi will no longer fill the bucket above the tank level. An 8.1L bucket with dual venturis will allow you to have your cake and eat it too, within reason. The Walbro 255 only lasted about 1.5 years, it has been losing constant pressure for months.
I may have to look into the 8.1L, I've got to wait on a new filter anyway, the metal o-ring stayed on the old pump and It's not reliable to stay in place on the new.
As I run the car with very little gas I don't want to keep a 1/4-1/3 a tank minimum, so drilling now isn't an option.
I'm going to look into some people's write-ups on the 8.1L bucket. If anyone knows the easiest way to purchase all the parts needed, please post up.
Thanks
The Walbro 255 only lasted about 1.5 years, it has been losing constant pressure for months.
I may have to look into the 8.1L, I've got to wait on a new filter anyway, the metal o-ring stayed on the old pump and It's not reliable to stay in place on the new.
As I run the car with very little gas I don't want to keep a 1/4-1/3 a tank minimum, so drilling now isn't an option.
I'm going to look into some people's write-ups on the 8.1L bucket. If anyone knows the easiest way to purchase all the parts needed, please post up.
Thanks Someone on the site sells the complete upgrade, do a search for 8.1L bucket in the for sale section and the tech section. I can't remember who sells them. They may also be on EBAY.
Someone on the site sells the complete upgrade, do a search for 8.1L bucket in the for sale section and the tech section. I can't remember who sells them. They may also be on EBAY. I know about ddawson's, I just want to mimimize buying what I actually need to complete it and with little modification as possible.
I'll check out the ebay guy.
I thinks this is it, but double check. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-F...ayphotohosting

I would be very interested in seeing what the capacity of the 8.1L pickup is without substituting the Walbro pump. It's still much larger than the GTO pump and may work pretty well without further modification.
I thinks this is it, but double check. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-F...ayphotohosting

I would be very interested in seeing what the capacity of the 8.1L pickup is without substituting the Walbro pump. It's still much larger than the GTO pump and may work pretty well without further modification. Thanks!!! Bought and paid for...
That was the right guy and part and great price. I still think I'm going to put the Walbro in there, I run a KB BAP when I activate my nitrous system, I'm not sure a factory pump would benefit from the extra voltage.

I would be very interested in seeing what the capacity of the 8.1L pickup is without substituting the Walbro pump. It's still much larger than the GTO pump and may work pretty well without further modification. I agree with Mistermike, the 8.1L pump is quite abit larger than our GTO OEM's were. It would be interesting to see the where the limits can be found on this pump.
Thanks!!! Bought and paid for...
That was the right guy and part and great price. I still think I'm going to put the Walbro in there, I run a KB BAP when I activate my nitrous system, I'm not sure a factory pump would benefit from the extra voltage. I Ran a BAP on my OEM pump up until the 408 install. was pushing 500 hp to the tires with steady FP. Although I was at the max voltage of the BAP, have no idea how long it would have lasted?
Point being, instead of hacking into the new pump when you get it,and assuming your current Walbro is dead, you might try to save the $$ and see what the ole 8;1L pump will do.
...
Point being, instead of hacking into the new pump when you get it,and assuming your current Walbro is dead, you might try to save the $$ and see what the ole 8;1L pump will do. Yep. The only mod I'd do would be run a 10 AWG fused line from the battery and have a relay connected to the OEM circuit to turn it on. The stock wiring is a bottleneck with any pump.
It would sure be worth a try. If it drops too much pressure at WOT, tossing in a Walbro is no big deal, but if it works well, you'd be a hero! The Silverado Scott "no Walbro" mod!
Maybe I'll try it with the factory 8.1, we'll see. I wonder what the flow # differences are between the GTO, Truck, and Walbo. I do need to run a larger wire from the battery, I've been turning that BAP on through the 28gauge or whatever they gave us from the factory.
subscribing
Maybe I'll try it with the factory 8.1, we'll see. I wonder what the flow # differences are between the GTO, Truck, and Walbo. I do need to run a larger wire from the battery, I've been turning that BAP on through the 28gauge or whatever they gave us from the factory. The Walbro has a much larger fuel pickup, however the 8.1L has what appears to be more volume capability??? It would be a very interesting test to be sure.....do us all the favor ....inquiring minds want to know....Lol
................8.1L Pump...........Walbro GS340............OEM
That's a big pump!
I'll be watching this thread too. I was going to add a lpe 255lph pump this winter for my nitrous install but if I can get away with it I'll just do the 8.1l install.
That's a big pump! Ummm......

I'm going to put the larger wire in from the battery to the BAP, then to the harness on the the top of the fuel module, won't I still have that bottleneck smaller wire between the top of the module down to the pump itself, inside the tank?
Bump for info!
Bump for info! Newsflash USPS sux for package shipping. Tracking # said 2-3 business days, it's been 5 business with no show. I put a note in my mailbox saying to drop off at front door today, otherwise I'll have to go to the post office when it comes in.:bs:
OK
The mailman dropped it off at the door this afternoon. I got it put in, I left the stock truck pump in the bucket however when I started it up it hung at 53 PSI.
Here's a video. http://media.putfile.com/53-psi The video might not work yet since it's so new.
I do have a few pics, but want to make sure it's useful before putthing them up.
I know it can be tuned for running at a lower PSI, however, that's still something I have not invested in. Thoughts....
OK
The mailman dropped it off at the door this afternoon. I got it put in, I left the stock truck pump in the bucket however when I started it up it hung at 53 PSI.
Here's a video. http://media.putfile.com/53-psi The video might not work yet since it's so new.
I do have a few pics, but want to make sure it's useful before putthing them up.
I know it can be tuned for running at a lower PSI, however, that's still something I have not invested in. Thoughts....
You bought the 8.1L kit off Ebay? Did it come with a pump installed? Or do you have to buy a pump too? I recently had my bucket modified (drilled) and added a Walbro 255 to it, but I want to find something better, to handle my new mods @ (600 rwhp).
Tom
Yes, bought it off Ebay and the factory pump was installed.
I do have another walbo 255, but wanted to see how the truck pump performed.
Yes, bought it off Ebay and the factory pump was installed.
I do have another walbo 255, but wanted to see how the truck pump performed. Keep us updated..... I'm still undecided what I need for a fuel system.
Thanks, Tom
I have ran the lpe pump for a year now. and ran it out of gas twice.
no problems
maybe just dumb luck i do not know.left the bucket stock just did what lpe said to do.
mike
OK
The mailman dropped it off at the door this afternoon. I got it put in, I left the stock truck pump in the bucket however when I started it up it hung at 53 PSI.
Here's a video. http://media.putfile.com/53-psi The video might not work yet since it's so new.
I do have a few pics, but want to make sure it's useful before putthing them up.
I know it can be tuned for running at a lower PSI, however, that's still something I have not invested in. Thoughts.... We need someone with access to the GM SPO to look up the fuel pressure for the 8.1L installs....53 may be normal for those app's.
We need someone with access to the GM SPO to look up the fuel pressure for the 8.1L installs....53 may be normal for those app's. I thought about registering at the Silverado/Sierra site, but I'm lazy.
BTW, I turned the BAP on full blast and it gained to 55.
I thought about registering at the Silverado/Sierra site, but I'm lazy.
BTW, I turned the BAP on full blast and it gained to 55. Is the regulator on the bucket/pump assembly? It seems like if you boosted the voltage pressure should have gone up more than that. Maybe the regulator is not allowing enough past it? Just an idea.

I've been searching for some billet grilles and haven't come up much. Although I did check out PFYC and come across one. Has anyone installed this on their goat and if so PIC's would be great in helping out on my decision.
http://www.pfyc.com/pc/GT1008/GTEXT/...les+-+GTO.html
The link above is the one I'm thinking about buying.
http://www.american-truck-auto.com/b...O_809440.shtml
Only Considering this one.
Let me know what you think and if you happen to know any other websites.
Thanks
Here you go--Read post #12

Billet vs. mesh-- a matter of taste.
I like it but mesh does it more for me.
heres an old thread of mine with some pics

Here you go--Read post #12

Billet vs. mesh-- a matter of taste.
It looks good, thats what I was wanting to see. A full car picture of it not just a zoomed in like the website. Thanks. How was the install? Any issues?
those look really nice, but id rather spend money on speed 1st
I would be all over the billet grilles if I had QSM. They look fantastic on RVolts ride.
It looks good, thats what I was wanting to see. A full car picture of it not just a zoomed in like the website. Thanks. How was the install? Any issues? Be prepared to go to the hardware store. The designer must've thought it was a Grand Prix or Grand Am. Brackets for the kidneys completely wrong, had to use the bumper parts for the kidneys, so went and got some more threaded rods. But not a huge deal. The quality of the grills themselves is excellent; they are very substantial. These are Precision Grills, sold by different vendors. If you do any grille change, be sure to go by this thread below for removing the bumper. Get someone to help you when you are actually removing the bumper, so you can keep it level and not break the plastic pieces.

Be prepared to go to the hardware store. The designer must've thought it was a Grand Prix or Grand Am. Brackets for the kidneys completely wrong, had to use the bumper parts for the kidneys, so went and got some more threaded rods. But not a huge deal. The quality of the grills themselves is excellent; they are very substantial. These are Precision Grills, sold by different vendors. If you do any grille change, be sure to go by this thread below for removing the bumper. Get someone to help you when you are actually removing the bumper, so you can keep it level and not break the plastic pieces.
Ok, cool good to know and thanks for the info.
Does anyone have any PIC's of the mesh grille on their GTO and does anyone know of any other grille sets?
:dunno:

Well it is snow time here in MN and time to put some extra weight in the trunk. 150-200 pounds of sand or salt worked great last year.
My question is: as this extra weight makes the rear ride lower, will the traction be the same and the handling improved if I shim the rear springs up to make the car level?
I have some 10mm shims I can put in that will make the car about level with the extra weight.
I am just pondering if the extra traction I get from the weight in the back is simply the result of the weight, or partially because I have transferred the balance of the car to the rear, which would change if I make the car level.
Any input is appreciated.
Thanks!
Pat
it is a result of more weight on the rear. increased weight means a larger tire patch contacting the road.
Keep in mind the rear suspenion has a multiple in term of motion ratio -- 10 mm will raise the ride height more than 10mm. With your higher rate Pedder coils you should not need to insert the shims to carry a bag of sand or alt. A full tank of fuel helps in the snow too.
Yep, remember 17 gallons of gas weighs approx 140 lbs. How many salt bags will you have to put in the rear to equal that? Plus, you could always fill the spare tire well with water? haha
I don't think I would bother with the shims. "Handling" in the snow, at least what I remember from living in upstate NY (Schenectady) was not like handling on dry roads in the summer.
If it was me I would just get the weight in there and move on. Unless it starts rubbing of course.
Yep, remember 17 gallons of gas weighs approx 140 lbs. How many salt bags will you have to put in the rear to equal that? Plus, you could always fill the spare tire well with water? haha
105lbs.....
Thanks for the input guys. I am going to run 120-160 pounds of salt or sand.
It seems to me that if the rear of my car is lower due to the weight, the front has less weight on the wheels, perhaps giving me less steering ability in the snow.
I just don't know if the rear being lower transfers more weight onto the rear wheels that would be on the front if the car was level.
I guess my main question is: If my ride height is level with additional weight, is that as functional in adding traction as having the same weight in the back with the rear ride height lower from the weight?
I would rather have the car level with the additional weight if my traction gains were the same.
Thanks!
Pat

I changed my pulley from a 4.5 to a 4.0. Made it to the dyno yesterday at Precision Motorsports in Dayton, Ohio. My boost went from 7.1 at 6500 with the 4.5 to 9.6 at 6300 with the 4.0. Final #s were 609/515 at 6300. This was on a Dynojet. Hp was still climbing but we saw a glitch at about 5700. Torque went over 500 at about 4200 and was still over 500 when we shut it down at 6300.After further review we found out I was losing fuel pressure at the 5700 mark. The tune Brent put on it from EPP still looked great throughout the tables. Still a little conservative and rich as we originaly planned. Injecters were fine running a max of about 82% duty cycle. Looks like the 255 needs a boost-a-pump. Now could someone from the Columbia city area kindly go wake Bob(EPP) up so we can get this thing some fuel?
Nice problem to have 609/515 on an LS1.
Cool.
Hi Carl, I'm sitting in an airport as I'm typing this. We can get you out a boost a pump Monday for you. Just give us a call or you can order it right off of the website. Come to think of it, we just took one off of a CTS-V that we're redoing for 850 rwhp, it's practically new and was installed in the trunk. Give us a call on this one. Thanks 260 244-4808. Bob
Hey Bob. Just send it to me and give a good price. If I get around to it I will even pay you eventually. I tried to call the shop , but there seems to be a problem with the answering machine. Is the install pretty straight forward? Must be nice to be such a world traveler.
Hey Bob. Just send it to me and give a good price. If I get around to it I will even pay you eventually. I tried to call the shop , but there seems to be a problem with the answering machine. Is the install pretty straight forward? Must be nice to be such a world traveler. I'll actually send it out to you Monday morning, whether you call me Monday or not. I know you're good for it. The install is straight forward, if you have any questions we can help you out. Maybe the message system is full, it's tough when any one of us is mia.
No more traveling for a while, I need a break! Bob
Thank you sir. I got through and left a message for you anyway prior to your post.
Thank you sir. I got through and left a message for you anyway prior to your post. Thanks Carl! Bob
600hp with a rich tune up, not too shabby for a drop-in fuel pump! A single 255lph is about done around there, with a bap you can usualy bring it around 610-630hp, all depends on the motor and power adder.
Definitely get a BAP ... no reason not to, just a lil extra insurance. Definitely a good thing to have a bit of a conservative tune. Real impressive numbers ... good luck to ya. Hopefully I'll have somewhere near those numbers ... hopefully.
You will need more than a boost a pump, My car has the same problem at 5500 rpm and I have a 255 walbro with a boost a pump. My car did 580rwhp and 580rwtq with 7 lbs. @ 5500 rpms.
My suggestion is to build up a GMH GTO setup. It's reasonably priced and having a boost referenced, return style system really simplifies the tuning.
Some nice numbers there... I hope to be right there with ya when I add a cam and ditch the factory cat-back!
Looks like I will have to do a fuel pump as well....
Im working on a write up for a easy installation guide for you guys. This is to install ANY walbro 255lph pump! Lots of pictures as well, same setup that is in cquist's car.
Damn its already here. What did you do BEAM it here?
Damn its already here. What did you do BEAM it here? Beam me aboard, Scotty! Bob