Well it's getting pretty close to my annual new engine rebuild in jan/feb which should last me untill march/april. I can either work with what I have. Ditch it all and go HKS v-mount & HKS T04Z which would actually be chepar then fixing what I have and maybe more reliable or go with the dream project. What's another $15k down the drain when i've spent over $75k allready? Anyone wanna buy my car with no engine for $30k? I've put more miles on my motorcycle in 7 months then I have with my RX-7 in 7 years. :icon_no2:
Anyhow, it would be dual Tial GT25's or something close to that. Isn't that what M2 used or was it GT28's?
So, just trying to get some input on expense and time spent. Engine bay pics would be great. Do's/don't or advice, etc.
If I had your luck, I think I would go with something tried and true.
Here is a link to a semi-Local guy that is doing a true dual turbo setup

This is completely off topic, but how have you spent $75k already? My white FD project car I've budgeted $25k for the stuff that I want to do to it. (that doesnt include the cost of the car) And it will be "done" in my book after all of that has happened.
looks like its not his first time.
howard should ring in.

Here is a link to a semi-Local guy that is doing a true dual turbo setup
thank you, that's exactly the reading I was looking for. :icon_tup:
This is completely off topic, but how have you spent $75k already? My white FD project car I've budgeted $25k for the stuff that I want to do to it. (that doesnt include the cost of the car) And it will be "done" in my book after all of that has happened. I paid $25k for the car so at least $50k in engines, turbos, more engines, several different suspensions and exhaust and etc. I wish mine was done for $25k.
RX72NR's project is very nice. His car will look tight. My ideas are similar but not hte same. If I were to do lambo doors i'd copy the brackets in titanium. W7 is too much weight I have dual W3's. Anyhow my original plans were for internal gates and dual exhaust. No one has done a true dual exhaust, so maybe I would still get to be the first. I would use alot simpler fuel system. Ever since I first saw Border Racing's dual single kit I wanted it. I think my idea is alot more efficent though.
sounds like you need to move the firewall and go ITB N/A 20B...and not worry about complex fuel systems, fitting twin turbo's, $$ V-mounts, custom motors, etc etc.
With to said engine you will be racing every season all season for a long long time
/\ true with all the money spent you might as well dump a 20b in there and leave it, that way you wont have to worry about the power since youll have globs of it!
ITB 20B ~ 300whp tops no?
While a dual single is pushing 500whp no? Different game.
no.
Check out GTORX7s results.
Different game. Yep, lots more seat time and the bleeding stops
Hmm you guys are making this sound interesting.
I can buy a 3 rotor and the kit from Defined, with streetporting it will make 350rwhp in N/A form which is like a 13brew @ 14psi???
i think a 20b is over pricing, with the manpower you can just buy the $4000 dollar motor with the right transmission and just swap it in there and make sure you have the right wiring, and just mod it as you get more money. the amount they make out of these 20b's is the reason why were getting our asses handed to 1000hp supras
i think a 20b is over pricing, with the manpower you can just buy the $4000 dollar motor with the right transmission and just swap it in there and make sure you have the right wiring, and just mod it as you get more money. the amount they make out of these 20b's is the reason why were getting our asses handed to 1000hp supras
Check out GTORX7s results. Did he ever actually dyno and get those numbers? I think that was a butt dyno estimate of 350, probably close though.
20b NA would be sweet for AutoX. Response, low end torque, reliable.

I needed new street rubber for my stock wheels and decided to try the Kumho MX in 225/50/16 (no 245 made). They've only been on a few days but so far I like them for $103 apiece. First thing I noticed before even putting them on is that the sidewall and the rest of the tire carcass is very flexible.
They do have very large tread blocks and so make a low, drumming sound at highway speeds; it's not obtrusive IMO but I can hear it. The soft carcass absorbs pavement breaks and "dots" without as much thunking and the dry grip is very good; better than I expected. I will have to wait till it rains to see about the wet.
I run a lot of negative camber and I can feel the tire initially push and then grip as you wind the steering in, the soft sidewall just takes longer to react and put the footprint on the ground. They don't feel as mushy as I expected though, just a little slower in transition.
I'll be at a test and tune this weekend and if time permits I'll run them around the course a few times and see what I think of them when pushed hard.
Damon,
I would be interested to hear how they compare to your last set of tires ............ whatever they were, when they were new.
Good info. Thanks for posting. Looking fwd to more opinions. This tire seems to be a great bargain.
Good info. I'd like to hear the comparison that adamc mentioned.
That’s a good tire for the money, great for eating at auto-x. There grip in the rain is amazing...
More thoughts on the MX. I didn't get to run them during the test day because I already had 2 sets of race rubber to run and spent all my time working with those.
A lot of STS guys run the MX and to a man they all agree with me: The MX has good grip but its carcass is soft and so turns in and transitions slowly. You have to learn to literally turn the car in early as the tire takes a moment to "catch up" and actually turn in. The tire also gets better as it gets hotter. That's on the racetrack though.
On the street they ride softer than any other tire I have had but they do make some tread noise from the giant tread blocks; I notice the low humming when driving through town. It's possible this is worse on my car because I'm running more than 1.5* of negative camber and therefore more on the shoulder of the tire; I dunno. On the highway I don't hear more tire noise compared to what else I have had on this car as the humming is drowned out by wind noise around the cabin. Their dry traction is impressive; more than I expected and most I've had yet other than race tires. Still haven't got in the wet stuff yet and no I can't tell you how they compare to anything costing $150 a tire. I pay less than that for my competition rubber :p:
Other tires I have had on this car:
Dunlop SP5000 (Really like them; highly under rated IMO)
Continental Contact Sport (Liked these as well but once worn halfway they really started to give up, especially in the wet)
Kumho Ecsta 712 (Absolutely hated them. No grip at all. They did appear to last well but I got rid of them quickly)
Race tires:
Yokohama RS008 II
BFG R1
Hoosier AS303
Kumho V700 Victoracer
I agree with what DamonB stated. I don’t have a lot of experience to pull from, but I have trashed on the MX’s through 4-5k street miles, an autocross, 5 track events, and 12 or so trips down the drag strip (pulled low 1.9's with 1.5* camber). They still have plenty of life left.
My only complaint about Kumho tires is they are a little too soft. That seems to be common across their entire line though (I've had everything from touring to their A/T's on a variety of vehicles).
They seem to have excellent hydroplane resistance. I'm a little mixed on the wet grip. Overall they stick very well, but they have stepped out unexpectedly on a few occasions. It just may have been the track/road, because it only happened a couple times.
Dry grip is exceptional and they are very predicable at the limit and after they break loose. Perhaps that’s a positive of the soft sidewalls.
Grip increases noticeably when warmed up and they have a fairly high tolerance to overheating. You have to pretty much overdrive them to get them greasy.
They get pretty hard around 40F and forget about traction around the freezing mark.
Overall assessment: I will be buying another set.
Damon, you liked the SP5000’s? I unloaded my 8000’s before they were worn out. They were turds compared to the MX’s.
Originally posted by DamonB
I needed new street rubber for my stock wheels and decided to try the Kumho MX in 225/50/16 (no 245 made). They've only been on a few days but so far I like them for $103 apiece. First thing I noticed before even putting them on is that the sidewall and the rest of the tire carcass is very flexible.
They do have very large tread blocks and so make a low, drumming sound at highway speeds; it's not obtrusive IMO but I can hear it. The soft carcass absorbs pavement breaks and "dots" without as much thunking and the dry grip is very good; better than I expected. I will have to wait till it rains to see about the wet.
I run a lot of negative camber and I can feel the tire initially push and then grip as you wind the steering in, the soft sidewall just takes longer to react and put the footprint on the ground. They don't feel as mushy as I expected though, just a little slower in transition.
I'll be at a test and tune this weekend and if time permits I'll run them around the course a few times and see what I think of them when pushed hard. Damon, what tire pressure are you running?
Originally posted by Cheers!
Damon, what tire pressure are you running? The MX on the street I have 32 psi in them. With all the camber they feel better with a little extra pressure.
Originally posted by 1st to 3rd
Damon, you liked the SP5000’s? I unloaded my 8000’s before they were worn out. Yeah, I liked them. Never been on the 8000 but the 5000 is supposedly a high performance tire with good wet and winter traction; it has sipes through the tread blocks and lots of void. They never felt squirmy, and had great dry drip all the way down to the wear bars.
I've been running these for about 2 years, and unless they start making Azenis in 225/50/16 or 245/45/16 I'll be buying them again.
Rated R1, any comments on wear since you've had them a while?
They seem to be wearing just fine. They perform just as good now as they did new. I don't drive the car daily though.
Just wanted to add that we have had torrential rain here in Dallas over the past few weeks and the MX tires have exceeded my expectations in the really bad wet stuff. I've been driving in literally inches of water and have yet to hydroplane. Overall wet grip is excellent as well.
Still very, very happy with these tires except for the slight drumming sound they make due to the large tread blocks at low city speeds.
Kumho MX ? Very2 Bad.
A month ago on my way to autox, I got vibration at speed, turns out the rubber has separated, when we swap tires to Victos.
Lucky I got home okay.
I will post photos....
2 tires with separations:


Looks like those tires are worn way past the wear bar and are nearly to the carcass; should have been replaced long ago. Just because there is rubber left doesn't make the tire safe or usable.
The bottom pic especially looks like the tire was locked or overheated in that one area and so the rubber wore through. A street tire just can't survive with that little rubber on it. It will quickly overheat if pushed hard.
I'm looking at the Kuhmos for a new set of SSR wheels I'm buying.
The only complaint I've found when researching this tire is that it can have a propensity to becoming out-of-round (when used on track, mostly). But this complaint was by one guy who went thru several of these tires suffering the same problem each time. Others never encountered the problem.
I actually ran an autox event in the dry on the MX tires last weekend. Essentially it's what I expected as the grip was quite good but they transition very slowly. Slaloms just plain tested my patience because the tire is so slow to change direction; I had to steer very early. Anywhere else they felt great. It took me a while to adjust myself to street tires again and to get the pressures in the ball park; I had no idea where to start other than "high". I ended up at the end of the day with 45 psi in the fronts and 40 psi in the rears for autox work. I think I needed to go up a little more yet on the rears but the car felt much better than I expected. Once I learned how they liked to be driven I was going much faster than I expected.
I think for track use these tires would be a great choice as far as street tires go. They get better as they get hotter (opposite of most street tires) and they inspire good confidence. Turning into fast corners is just fine, it's only on things like slaloms where you are constantly weaving back and forth that I really didn't care for them. My tires are at nearly full tread depth though, I would expect that if they were shaved they would be better.
I'll second Damons comments, I am running MXs on my Supra, 285-40-17, and 255-40-17. They are outperforming all other street tires I have tried, except the BFGKD at twice the price. They do not turn in like the BFG, but they wear twice as long, and are safe in the rain unlike the KDs. I see alot of them on high HP cars at HPDEs, everyone I talked to had positive comments. Reza, These are not race tires with the obligatory wear bar, they are street tires, and will be dangerously slick, and prone to failure once well past the wear bar per your photos. Peace, Carl
awesome, this only reinforces my previous conceptions of the MXs
they will definitly be my next set of tires after my Azenis wear out
I am running them and I love them...but I still like my SO3's better....
Yea..the Kumho MX are good.
The wear could go way past those in photos. I still use a pair on the front. The grip is still okay, but not in the rain, because the tread is no longer there.
The reason they look like that is in this picture below:

Interesting, would you say the drumming becomes unbearable for long highway trips?

Does anyone know how to use 2 of msd BLASTER coils with e6k for the leading ignition set up??
You still need an ignitor.
The Haltech cannot fire any coil directly.
If you're going to insist to running two, single-tower coils for leadings, you need at least a two channel ignitor or equivalent.
-Ted
Can i just use my stock leading ignitor and parrallel connect my 2 blaster coils??
Use 2 stock leading igniter's or a 2 channel igniter like Ted said.
+1.
^^ so you have done this. Can you show me how to wire two leading ignitors with 2 blaster coils??
Right now i am using the haltech with stock ignition set up. stock ignitors and stock coils.
So do i just connect an extra leading ignitor in parallel with the existing one then connect each blaster coil to each ignitor??
thanks..in advance..
You got it... and make sure the igniter cases are well grounded
^^ so you have done this. Can you show me how to wire two leading ignitors with 2 blaster coils??
Right now i am using the haltech with stock ignition set up. stock ignitors and stock coils.
So do i just connect an extra leading ignitor in parallel with the existing one then connect each blaster coil to each ignitor??
thanks..in advance..
and I dont have to do anything with the haltech programming and timing??
Nope nothing
and I dont have to do anything with the haltech programming and timing??
Is this a better set up than using an msd or crane cam hi-6...etc etc??
Im going to go out on a limb here and suggest you get a set of LS1 coils, they have their own built in igniters and will work on any setup, and the are pretty good and cheap.
I got this RE-A spark wires...and love them..
This fit with the msd coil blaster, but it does not fit to the ls1 coils. I have a set of of 4 ls1 coils..
Im going to go out on a limb here and suggest you get a set of LS1 coils, they have their own built in igniters and will work on any setup, and the are pretty good and cheap. what kinda limits do the ls1 coils have?
as far as brake-up and running alot of boost?any?
what kinda limits do the ls1 coils have?
as far as brake-up and running alot of boost?any? Well, so far i have had them on a 425HP 13B-REW engine at 24psi of boost and no problems what so ever.

Can someone tell me how to avoid predetonation and how i can tell if it happens?
is it like a backfire or is it completely different.
i have an 88 TII list of mods are
2mm ceramic apex seals
Street/Semi-Race Port
Rtec 1.8
860cc injectors
upgraded fuel pump
turbonetics compressor housing
Garrett center section
3" to 2.75" turbo back exhaust
Ported upper and lower intake manifolds
Ported throttle body
any ideas at a round about hp im looking at?
:uh: Not gonna say it!
:uh: Not gonna say it! no help. at all.
Keep the motor cool, this can be done by reliability mods, DONT FORGET Charge Air temp also.. IE Intercooler
Keep your AFR's in check under boost, depending on porting and boost you want to keep it below 12:1 under boost, the more boost the richer you want to go.
Dont go crazy with the timing, this is the easiest way to pop a motor. set timing depending on your porting and boost
Keep the motor cool, this can be done by reliability mods, DONT FORGET Charge Air temp also.. IE Intercooler
Keep your AFR's in check under boost, depending on porting and boost you want to keep it below 12:1 under boost, the more boost the richer you want to go.
Dont go crazy with the timing, this is the easiest way to pop a motor. set timing depending on your porting and boost i plan on getting an afr gauge for it and i have a pretty massive radiator its a 4 core aluminum radiator with a fierro fan mounted on it im planning on making it fmic but not immidiatly probly within the next couple weeks.
Can someone tell me how to avoid predetonation and how i can tell if it happens?
is it like a backfire or is it completely different.
i have an 88 TII list of mods are
2mm ceramic apex seals
Street/Semi-Race Port
Rtec 1.8
860cc injectors
upgraded fuel pump
turbonetics compressor housing
Garrett center section
3" to 2.75" turbo back exhaust
Ported upper and lower intake manifolds
Ported throttle body
any ideas at a round about hp im looking at? can you please define "pre-detionation" for me?
can you please define "pre-detionation" for me? well,
Detonation (also called "spark knock") is an erratic form of combustion that can cause head gasket failure as well as other engine damage. Detonation occurs when excessive heat and pressure in the combustion chamber cause the air/fuel mixture to autoignite. This produces multiple flame fronts within the combustion chamber instead of a single flame kernel. When these multiple flames collide, they do so with explosive force that produces a sudden rise in cylinder pressure accompanied by a sharp metallic pinging or knocking noise. The hammer-like shock waves created by detonation subject the head gasket, piston, rings, spark plug and rod bearings to severe overloading.
but not pistons ha.
welllll i guess never mind about the pre detonation
http://www.misterfixit.com/deton.htm
but im still curious about the hp.
any guesses opinions whatever?
So......whats "PRE-detonation"? I know very well what detonation, knock, pre-ignition, auto ignition etc. are, but I want to know what is this "Pre-detonation" you talk of??
run water or meth injection
So......whats "PRE-detonation"? I know very well what detonation, knock, pre-ignition, auto ignition etc. are, but I want to know what is this "Pre-detonation" you talk of??
ass
Thats why i wasn't going to say it! The best advice i know of is to get a profesinal tune and ask any questions you have of him. :icon_tup: :) And pre-detonation is what you want, always.:)
Thats why i wasn't going to say it! The best advice i know of is to get a profesinal tune and ask any questions you have of him. :icon_tup: :) And pre-detonation is what you want, always.:) i had the name of it wrong. thats all. i was talking about detonation. where your engine "pops" im new at all this.
Not to sound like a bigger "ass" but just because you engine "pops" doesn't mean it's detonation.
-J
From what i have experienced it hard to hear the rotary ping and if you do its to close or already to late. But if your talking about a back fire out the exhaust thats almost normal!
i have an 88 TII list of mods are
2mm ceramic apex seals
Street/Semi-Race Port
Rtec 1.8
860cc injectors
upgraded fuel pump
turbonetics compressor housing
Garrett center section
3" to 2.75" turbo back exhaust
Ported upper and lower intake manifolds
Ported throttle body
any ideas at a round about hp im looking at? :bsflag: ???
:bsflag: ??? whatever.
thats what i was told im totally new at this.
and as far as the ping goes im not necessarily talking about ping.
i just dont wanna fuck my car up super fast.
and the engine exploding thing. i know that detonation isnt the only thing to do that like boost creeps all kinds of things. but yeah.
No need to be an ass, folks... >.<
You're running apex seals that cost around $1,000 or more...at least for the good, quality / well-known brands.
Dunno what "semi race port" means...?
You've got fuel injectors that barely can support 350 at the wheels.
You're running a modded STOCK ECU.
And just a compressor upgrade / hybrid...?
This kind of combination is not common.
Hell, I don't think I've ever heard of anyone running such a combination on here.
So, either the owner is very rich, very paranoid, or very ignorant...
This is why I'm suspicious of the post...
-Ted
#1 have a good tunner (make sure you never lean out but dont go to rich either), #2 keep your ignition in good shape, if your WOT hard all the time check your injectors frequently.
#3 always make sure you have enough fuel for the application. Never be cheap cause it will be more expensive in the end!
oh and listen for the hesitation sound when it happens( sounds like when you hit the rev limiter)