While out plowing the other day I pulled into a driveway to back drag in front of a garage and the plow fell to the ground as I pulled up to the garage.I hit the up button and it goes up about an inch so I hit it again and nothing happens...so I get out and look at it the lights are pointing down at the ground.Next I crawl under the truck and notice the the undercarriage snapped on both side.Now I'm not that familiar with them but I believe the dealer said it cracked where the STRAPS are.Is this common?The plow is on a 2002 Ford 250 Super Duty.
r u saying it snap/ broke off the truck???
yes this is common i have fix 3 of these undercarriages for my buddy who has 4 f-250 super duty they where all the same thing broken at the strap that goes up to the bumper. i welded the 3 back to gather and reinforce with with a 3/8 plate of steel the 4th one we took off this past summer and reinforce it to prevent any problems. his trucks range from 99 to 02 super duty
Same thing happened to me. 9 hours in to the storm I hit a manhole cover at 7 mph, plow tripped and so did the frame.
Very upsetting to lose the amount of money I did by not plowing.
I will be welding up a new mount on wednesday. Its a shame they can not make these things to last.:mad:
r u saying it snap/ broke off the truck??? Yes that is correct.I never seen or heard of anything like it before.
Same thing happened to me. 9 hours in to the storm I hit a manhole cover at 7 mph, plow tripped and so did the frame.
Very upsetting to lose the amount of money I did by not plowing.
I will be welding up a new mount on wednesday. Its a shame they can not make these things to last.:mad: Good luck with it Mike.I know a new Undercarriage for my truck was $521 plus labor to remove the old one and install the new one.Like you said its a shame they can't make these things last.My truck is only plowed 3.5 winters and it broke already...come on thats just not right.

Well, still struggling with this one. Not gonna get them fixed for this one, but I'll fix them after the storm. Now to the problem: I have a Fisher MM1 with the Grote headlights. I replaced the four turn signal bulbs a month back and must have put in the wrong ones because all four burned out (all four were blackened). I went out and got the right ones, put them in and all four still don't work. Checked the plugs and re contact greased the pins and everything looks good, but just don't work. I am at a loss!:crying:
Dont the grote lights only have 4 wires per side at the plug?
If so, do you have the turn/markers grounded?
I am pretty sure they do and that I do have them grounded, but I'll double check.
I checked and everything is grounded on both sides!
I had the same problem on two MM1s, on two different trucks. Here's what I found...I went through all of the connections, grounds, bulbs etc, again. I found that I was getting voltage to the isolation module, but no voltage coming out of it. So I jumped the brown wire (parking lamps) from the cluster where it enters the isolation module, directly to the cluster where it exits the isolation module.
This fixed the problem and the parking and turn signal lamps work again.
I'll give that a try nect time I hook it up. I was looking at other trucks last weekend while I was plowing at night and noticed that about 40% of the Fisher MM1s had the same problem!
I was looking at other trucks last weekend while I was plowing at night and noticed that about 40% of the Fisher MM1s had the same problem! You're right. I've noticed the same thing, not just on Fords like mine, but all trucks.
I know. I saw it on Dodges, Fords, Chevys, and a GMC!
Are you using relays in the harness to switch from truck to plow lights. If so you need to have power on leg 86 on the relay which is usally picked up from the marker light.
Nope, no relays, no switches.
Not sure if this is been said, but there is and in line fuse(10 amp?). Mine is located around my master cyclinder! Found that to be blown, and it took me a little while to find it.
That might be the problem as well. I might have blown the fuse when I put the wrong bulbs in!:guns:
I took a real quick look at the plow tonight and di not find any inline fuse (yet and it was dark in the garage). Is this one of the long fuses (sorry, I am NOT electrically inclined!)? I looked under the hood near the ISO module and noticed three or four thin cylinder thingys, could those be them? I noticed that the brown wire went into one of the cylinders.:dizzy: :confused: :confused: :dizzy:
Okay, need to back up a minute, this is a newer fisher running the isolation module with 3 plugs at the grill with factory origanal lights or aftermarket replacemant lights that have been wired in?
Who did the install, dealer, you, friend? (just looking for common mistakes)
how long hs it been installed and did the lights work after the install?
Do the turn and markers on the truck itself work?
The plow itself functions properly?
Alright, here we go! It is the new three plug style with isolation module. I am not sure about the lights, but I would say that they are aftermarket ones that have been wired in. The guy I bought the truck from installed the plow himself and did a good job with it. He said that he had installed them many times and he did do it well. The truck has never plowed before this season. The ambers did work when I bought the truck and worked through the first two storms. Then they started to burnout one by one. I bought what I thought were the right bulbs, but they were wrong and burned out within minutes. I now have the correct bulb (1157 Sylvanias) and they will not work. The turn signals on the truck work perfect with and without the plow hooked up. The plow work perfectly and the headlight function fine with high and low beams. Everything is perfect except for the ambers. It is not a big deal, but one of those little things that annoy me!!! I don't want to hit or get hit my someone because the could not see my signal!:dizzy:
Okay, lets start with the fuse to the iso module. Find the wires coming out of port 1 on the iso mod, follow the red wire with a black strip on it for about 6 inches and you should come to a black plastic fuse holder, check the 15amp fuse there. If the fuse is good then pull the lens off of the plow lights for the markers and with a test light, while the marker lights are turned on, probe the 2 terminals in the bottom of the bulb socket for power (dont touch the sides of the sockets with the test light). If no power there, then unplug the harness at port 3 at the iso mod, turn the marker lights on and test the end of the brown wire at the end of the plug with a test light. If you have power there, pull the marker/turn assembly on the drivers side of the truck (the one on the truck, not the plow) make sure that the brown wire is hooked up still to the brown wires for the factory harness. if they still dont work, let me know where you did and didnt have power at.

While hookin up my plow yesterday i noticed that the seal on the r/h lower actuator was coming out its not leaking. i checked the other side and sure doesnt look like that. Is it still ok to plow with and how long do you think till someting bad happens ?
That might not leak for the rest of the season with the little amounts of snow everyone is getting.
You really might make it rest of the season, doesnt appear to be leaking and there are other seals behind that one. If its less then 2 winters old i would stop by the dealer and have them repack it or you could take it apart and reseal it yourself.

Allright guys, I've got a question for you. I just bought a new 2006 Kawasaki 360 4x4 ATV w/winch and plow a few weeks ago. In my owners manual it said to change all the oils (engine and both gear cases/differentials), and oil filter after the first 10 hrs. I called my local dealer today, to ask how much they would charge for the initial servicing and they wanted about $250! They also said that it isn't good to change the gear case/differential oil:dizzy: . So my question is, how hard is it to do the initial servicing? Can I do it myself, or should I take it to them (for $250)? Also, what exactly do you guys recommend doing for the initial servicing? Thanks in advance,
Matt
Anyone, I would really appreciate some responses.:salute:
The rear diff fluid is a special and you have to use that and ONLY that fluid. Every other fluid is straight up. Is 250 bucks exsisive, hell yes it is. Go to the dealer and buy your fluids and do it byourself.....Rob
Where in north jersey are you?
I always did all my four wheeler maintenance myself. There are a few good non-dealer repair shops around though.
Where in north jersey are you?
I always did all my four wheeler maintenance myself. There are a few good non-dealer repair shops around though. I'm in the Mahwah area. What did you do for your initial servicing?
Thanks,
Matt
Just changed the oil, greases up the fittings, lubed the cables, cleaned and oiled the air filter. Do some searches online, there are a number of ATV message boards out there that can help you. If not get your hands on a manual for your ATV, it can prove to be most helpful when things break. Most of the maintenance on those things is pretty straight forward, but if you do use the quad a bit it might not hurt to have a trained tech look at it. Just to mkae sure the valves are set right, the belts are wearing ok, etc.
In the past I've dealt alot with Kawasaki Yamaha Sportcenter on Rt 23. Ledgewood Kawi is supposed to be really good to.
Just changed the oil, greases up the fittings, lubed the cables, cleaned and oiled the air filter. Do some searches online, there are a number of ATV message boards out there that can help you. If not get your hands on a manual for your ATV, it can prove to be most helpful when things break. Most of the maintenance on those things is pretty straight forward, but if you do use the quad a bit it might not hurt to have a trained tech look at it. Just to mkae sure the valves are set right, the belts are wearing ok, etc.
In the past I've dealt alot with Kawasaki Yamaha Sportcenter on Rt 23. Ledgewood Kawi is supposed to be really good to. What do you use to lift the ATV up, so you can get to the drain plugs, and oil filter? Responses needed!
put a milk crate under th rear axle, or if you are small enough, shouldn't even need to lift it
Just change the tranny oil, make sure the tires are at the correct psi, look for unusual things, check the oil filter, and adjust w/e is necessary. A good site, that is very helpful is highlifter just add your www. and .com to it. message me if you need anything, Ive been working on my honda and arctic cat fourwheelers for a while, also rebuilding a vintage dirtbike.
There is no tranny oil. It has a clutch much like what a snowmoble has. Make sure you change the motor oil often. And check both diff fluids. If it looks like a milkshake then you have water getting into it and thats real BAD. Have it fixed as soon as you see that. Learn how to check the deflection of the drive belt. Check this guys website, he prob knows more about Kawi atv's then anyone you will ever find. http://atv.dnsalias.com/ ......Rob
I'd dot it myself but I'm surprised the dealer doesn't do it as part the sale. $250 is crazy!!!!

I am currently in the process of looking for a roller tailgate spreader for my F450 dump truck. This is the kind of spreader that bolts under the tailgate that has the big roller in it used for spreading limestone, gravel, etc. My question is, can I run this unit off the hydraulic pump that operates my dump bed (PTO pump that runs off the 5spd tranny) or do I need to install a seperate hydraulic pump? If i have to put on a seperate pump, i would assume that a smaller electric/hydrauilc poumo would work. (??) Thanks!
i would think it would work. are you talking about a speader like one a state truck for salt? if so you will need i diverter valve also and if you step on the clutch the PTO stops spinning.