just saw a pin hole in my 1994 f250 4x4,(leaking oil )was wondering if anyone has ever changed one and how difficult. can motor be jacked up or does it have to come out?? any help would be great. Thanks Bill
I did one last year on a 95 with a 351. There is a post on here about the job. It is not easy but can be done. Upper intake must be removed, exhaust removed, motor mounts undone, motor lifted all the way till it hits the firewall. Then you must remove the oil pan, reach in and undo the oil pump which will let the pan squeeze between the block and the cross member. Then the whole assembly must be reversed for installation. Took about 6 hours total work time.
Would be quicker if you had a helper. The right tools are a must and a manual is good to have. Also the exhaust studs and other bolts and such will likely need to be replaced.
Good Luck. E-mail me if you decide to take on the job and need some more advice.
I did one on my 95' 150 before I got rid of it. I found it was easier to just take the motor out and do it quicky. Took me about 8-9 hrs to complete the job. Did yours rot out? I know mine did from the inside out if you can believe it, and best of all ford knows it is a problem, inferior metal they say.... Real BS
Rick
Did mine about 4 months ago, 351/auto was pretty easy, but nerve racking, wondering if anything will break. I just disconnected some lines, fan shroud, undid motor mounts, and trans mount, unbolted L/S exhaust, and cut the pipe down further buy the trans, this was much easier for us to do than try and unbolt the R/S exhaust, when we put it together we sleeved it and welded it. We also used a lift, and a porter power off the floor on the pully to raise the motor.
Good luck:waving:
Bill I get quite a few Fords in the shop with small rust holes in the pan each year, I will normally drain the oil and clean the area around the hole, then weld a patch over the rust hole. Some times the repair can be done with a "good" soldering gun and a quality solder. Make sure you give the repair a good coat of paint when your finished. Ford oil pans are quite pricey, so you may want to try and repair the pan first. :rolleyes: John
While they can be done in the truck,they are a major PITA.If it isn't repairable like Garagekeeper mentioned,I would recommend pulling the motor,and doing it right.You;ll get a much better seal on the oil pan gasket,and it's now easy to do anything else the motor may need while it's out.
I want to thank all of you for your great advice and I'll let you know what route I take and the outcome,again thanks.
I put a hole in mine this last blizzard, cleaned and sanded the area after I drained the oil, wiped it with acetone and applied JB Weld to the area.
2 hours later put the oil back and "much better than new"
I have to yank the motor to replace the pan.

My 2000 F-350 has no parking or dash lights. I checked all fuses in the cab and under the hood. I also installed a new headlight switch, still no lights. I could really use some help.
There are several underhood fuses that power the lighting circuts. Trailer and truck running lights are fused seperatly. Also there may be a relay depending on outfitting for your F350 that controls the power to the headlight switch.
We see most of these occur when the trailer plug gets shorted out and blows the under hood fuse.
Jerre
Thank you for your reply Jerre. The plug is probably a mess from spreading salt. My headlights,turnsignals and brakelights all work. I checked the small fuses in the power distribution box under the hood. They were all ok. I will dig a little deeper and see if any of the larger fuses are bad. I will let you know. thankyou.
The same thing happened in my Dodge. It turned out it was a blown fuse, most likely caused by my old 4 pin trailer plug that I never use.
Thanks for the info Fordman. Ijust got home to tear into it. Thanks again
MAYBE THIS WILL HELP
WILL EMAIL YOU WIRING DIAGRAM
AS SOON AS I CAN GET ON
CARDOCTOR

I did it. I was backing up in a driveway and caught the trailer tow mirror (the extendable ones) Everything is intact except the black cover. Mechanicals, power and the heat all work fine, mirror doesn't vibrate at all.
Ford dealer told me I needed a whole new assembly for $250. Can you just buy the cover for less?
Howard
Howard,
I doubt you will be able to buy just the cover!!
The complete mirrors are on ebay all the time. You should be able to get both for less than 1 from Ford. Then you could have a spare for "next time" or resell it on ebay!
Greg
Howard, you can not buy the cover alone, you must buy the entire mirror. You should be able to get them down a bit in price. I had mine smashed by an oncoming van, he clipped my mirror and kept going! $200 from the dealer. AW Direct sells replacements too, but they're a little different in appearance.
-John
Howard,
Check the dieselstop page, I was able to find one in the for sale area for $50. It was in excellent shape, and I got it from Texas in 3 days. It did take me 3 weeks to find one, kept getting out bid on Ebay.
John
There is a TT mirror on dieselstop.com http://www.thedieselstop.com/forsale...p3?Accessories
Doesn't say what side. $75.00
Rick

I wanted to inform people that own F550 trucks about a problem that we are experiencing in PA. Several townships and cities are experiencing the rear tires falling off of the truck and the studs are sheering off. The lug nuts are still attached to the broken stud. I personally had this happen to 2 of my F550's. Ford stated so far that they havent had any problems. Insurance companies that I have talked to stated that they have paid many claims out on this problem and are in the process of going after Ford to recoupe their losses. The proper torque for the lug nuts are 155-160 Ft Lbs Torque. I,m querious if any other people have had this problem.
Welcome to here!:drinkup:
I haven't had any problems on my 550. I've had studs pop on other trucks, but it has always been due to loose nuts. I wouldn't be surprised if that isn't the case here. When you get the wheels spinning with a load on, the lugs tend to loosen and need to be retorqued.
If these drivers are continuing until they've all popped and the wheel falls off, then they aren't paying attention to what their truck is telling them. When you hear a rattle or feel a vibration you need to determine the cause to prevent these things from happening.
That is why during long term plowing events. The truck should get a quick walk around check.
Next town over had a 1 ton chevy, with a 4 yard sander, full of sand, plow and wing, do the same thing.
Geoff
Thats an interesting way to spell the word "curious". Welcome to here!! :drinkup: Mike
My driver brought my 350 back once and said there was a bad vibration in the steering. I took a look, three studs were gone and the rest had the nuts backed off half way. Duhhh!!!:realmad:

i have a '93 f-350 with an auto overdrive (button is on the end of shifter) in the miidle of the big storm i saw drips of red fluid. when i stopped to check it out the tranny puked out about a quart of fluid (came out in between enginge/tranny)
i filled it up with more fluid and has been running ever since.
anyone know what happend? overheat? i'm interested to know what you guys think. thanks
It sounds like it could be a front convertor seal,maybe leaking when it got hot due to plowing.I would keep an eye on it,and the fluid level and see if it gets any worse.If it continues,then look at replacing it.The trans and torque convertor must come out to get at it.It may also be a leak at the front pump,but you won't know for sure until the trans is out.
My '89 F350 has lost fluid on occasion after some hard work. With the recent addition of a Blizzard 810 plow it is doing it again, on a much more serious note:confused:
I am planning on installing a tru-cool trans cooler - what size would be best?
From Wyldman, my guess is that I should look at replacing the front convertor seal and the front pump. With reasonable to good mechanical skills can I pull the trans and do it myself?
Last note: I have had the truck from 1993, no problems and no upgrades, avg 1,000 miles/yr.
Thanks,
Chris