I have a question one of you maybe able to answer. I have 107,000 on my powerstroke diesel, and I have noticed a fluid(pretty sure it is transmission fluid) leaking between the engine and the transmission under the truck. It started very small, but now it has started to leave a small place on the ground while sitting over night- about the size of a half dollar. Just am hopeing it is just a seal or something. Do you think the tube that runs down to the transmission that the dip stick goes in could be coming out, from vibration? I have been keeping an eye on the levels, no notice of low fluid yet. Thanks for any input.
It's a possibility but the only way you'll know for sure is to crawl under and check it out. It might require that you clean the area well and reinspect after a short drive.
It sounds like the front pump seal,is it coming out from between the engine/trans,or running down the side of trans,then dripping down the inspection/dust shield?With it leaking good you should be able to lay under there,spray it down with parts cleaner,and run it a whiel,sitting idling,let it sit,you should be able to see where its coming from,my guess front seal.the trans has to come out.its not a difficult trans to R&R luckily.
Thank you for the replies. The fluid is coming down between the engine and trans. Some fluid is on the oil pan and the rest on the front of the transmission. I see no fliud on the sides on the transmission. I guess it has took a little time for the leak to cover the dry metal and to start to drip on the ground. Nothing very serious yet, but sure don't want the transmission to go out. I see some of you posting about only having a 3/ 36000 mile warrenty on your diesel trucks. My turbo and a sensor that controls the waste gate went out at 85,000 miles. It cost 2,800.00 to fix. It was only 100.00 out of my pocket. I thought all powerstroke trucks came with a 100,000 mile warrenty? Anyway I got a new turbo at 85,000 miles so hopefully everything will last alot longer. OBW I pull a 8,000lb. enclosed trailer almost all the time, and I just had to replace the back brakes at 106,000 miles. Did I also mention that I get 13-15 miles to the gallon pulling in stop and go traffic, just have to love these diesel engines. To bad my Chevy ton truck w/ 350 only gets 7 miles to the gallon no matter how you drive it.
MWS LAWN,
The powerstroke engines come with a 5 year, 100,000 mile warranty, the rest of the truck is only 3 year, 36,000. Just make sure that you don't overheat the tranny, that really kills them.
John
After your update, I agree with John's diagnosis. You'll have to drop the tranny to fix it yourself, it won't be covered under the engine warranty.
It's about 10-15 degrees here now. What would you think a shop would fix it for if it is only a seal. How many hours could it be fixed in? I don't have a shop to get in, to fix it out of the weather.
I would guess 6 to 8 hours complete. Any mechanics here that can quote book time?
MWS,i can pull that trans,replace the seal,and reinstall it in about 3 hrs tops,if its 2wd.add 1.5 hrs for a 4x4.As for book time,I couldnt tell you.Now be prepared for a bigger bill,sometimes the seal will leak because of another proble,,plugged cooler line,bad pump,bad torque convertor etc...With over 100K on it,you may need more work done or a rebuild.
Thanks John, It is a 4x4. I can't see that it would need to be rebuilt, it runs and shifts fine( I hope not anyway). I'm going to get it to the shop pretty fast though so maybe nothing else will go wrong before it is fixed.Thanks
MWS LAWN,
Are you sure it's tranny fluid and not oil?
If it's oil(probably is), it's most likely a leaking turbo pedestal ring or EBV seal. Look in the valley of the engine under the turbo. Is there oil pooling in there? If there is, it leaks down behind the motor and comes out through the Torque Converter cover. Mine has done it almost since new. I fixed it though when I did some turbo work about 2 mos. ago.
Greg
I have read the posts here i gotta think its not trans fluid you do not specify color, trans fluid should " oh god please " have a red to pink color if it is has dark has motoroil then its gonna be more than a seal issue like t overhaultime when was the trans serviced last ? if it is engine oil maybe small leak at rear of engine leaking down making the rear main or tranny area look suspect. has far has labor time if you dont feel comfortable working on it maybe pay a shop for a leak diag, just hate to see ya take a bath or not sleep at night over this .
regards fred
I'm pretty sure that it is trans. fuild. It has a pink color to it, and is thinner that oil- almost a silk feel to it, very clean. The trans. was serviced 30K ago- new fliud and filter.
You might want to try adding a bottle of trans-X. It's a conditioner/stop leak, comes in a silver/blue metal bottle. I've used it in older trannies, it does improve the shifting. Your leak is so small now that this might do the trick, at least till summer when you can tear out the trannie in comfort. As long as you keep the fluid level up, a small leak shouldn't hurt anything, other than being a little agravating.
The only problem with runnign a conditioner/sealer is that it is a one way deal.Once you use it,your seal swell slightly,it may work for a while but if it leaks again,now you need a rebuild,not just a frotn seal,because every seal will be affected by the conditioner/sealer,it ruins them all over time.
Thank all of you that has replied. Took it to the shop today. It is the front seal of the transmission. It is going to cost me 250.00, and a day without my truck. I am glad that this is all that is wrong with it. Thanks again.
Well guys, I have been so busy I have just been adding fluid up to about two weeks ago. I had all new seals including pump seal replaced and it is still leaking. Mech. said that the trans. casing has a hair line crack in it. Over time the leak will get worst and the only way to fix it is a new trans. Hard to beleive everything inside is fine, but I need a new trans. anyway. Do any of you have any suggestion, and if so I know that I have read on here there was a guy that built bullet-proof transmittions, what is the web-site? Thanks.
Sorry to hear about your tranny troubles but heres the site of the most respected ford tranny shop I know of www.brianstruckshop.com . BTW this is the first time I have heard of the casing cracking on one of the newer fords.
Just remembered one more www.levelten.com
Not sure where the crack is but you might be able to have it tig welded. I have heard of a few of these cases cracking. All were replaced by Ford. I would complain a bit more. The squeaky wheel gets the grease with Ford.

I just got back from plowing and I am getting a sqeaking sound from the front when it is in 4wd I have an f350 with the automatic hubs with the switch on the dash not the lever. What is wrong with them can they be fixed or should I just replace them. is there a way to lube them. I don't know much about hubs, and forgive my grammer I've been up for well over 24 hours. Thanks for the help
How many miles on the truck?
Is the noise the same as the engine or road speed?
My 1st guess is check the u-joints on the front driveshaft 1st.
Iv'e had one start to go in the middle of a storm and it made a sqeaking sound also. :o
Its a little easier to check with manual hubs and man transfercase as you can lock and unlock the hubs and then shift in and out of 4 wheel.
The front axle knuckle ujoints don't take as much abuse, but they will get more water in them when you are not in 4wheel
and they are just sitting there.
Bob
:waving:
the truck has about 25,000 miles on it, I also was considering the u-joint but would it squeak like that? Does it have grease zerks on it or what would you reccomed I try?
Mine did the same thing, have the u-joints replaced and should do it.
I'd also suspect the u-joints, the noise should be worse while turning. The factory u-joints won't have grease fittings (don't ask me why!), but make sure your replacements do. They're a bit of a hassle to replace, but if you're good with a wrench you'll figure it out.
shouldn't they be covered under warranty? also they're talking 6 inches of snow tonight, is it something that is gonna bust on me or is it just gonna drive me crazy?
They should not die in 1 nights plowing .
To make sure grab the drive shaft to see if there is a lot of
slop.
Turn up the radio and pop in a good cd.
The day mine let go we were due for a bigstorm the next day,
mine made such a noise I thought the tranny was on it's way out.
If the newer trucks are the same as mine 88-97
the front dirveshaft will have 3 ujoints, 2 at the transfercase
cv type setup and 1 at the axle .
The one at the axle usually fails 1st.
The ujoints at the transfercase side is NOT a fun job.
2 guys and some patients(sp).
The front joint is aprox $12-25.00 max and a 1 hr job.
And yes this should be covered uder your warrenty.
Yea lubed for life got to love it.
When the gease dies the joint fails (life ).
When you put joints with greese fittings in , even in the summer
at every oil/lube run the truck up the road (stright only)
in 4 wheel to rotate and lube the ujoints .
This will help to prolong thier life.
Bob
:waving:
They are covered under the 3/36000 warranty if your truck still qualifies.
Drive your truck (carefully) with your door opened to listen for the squeak. If it sounds like it's coming from the seat, then it's the driveshaft, from the wheel, the steering knuckle.
Whether or not it will blow on an overnight plow depends on how bad it is to start. If it's under warranty, the play dumb (What noise?), but if you have to foot the bill, there will be more damage if left to self destruct. At the very least you could end up with a broken yoke or worse depending on how much torque is applied when it lets go.
I went out and wiggled the front drive shaft. there is no movement at all it is very solid I don't think its the U-joints. It isn't that loud and it is not distinct were it is coming from. When I drive next to a wall is when I notice it most. I really think it is the hubs.
how about the joints in the front axle? once you lock the hubs there is nothing moving in them. i bet the front axle u joints are bad. take a look
Normally when a u-joint causes a squeeking noise,it will have very little noticable play.It squeeks due to lack of lube,and rust in the joint.Look carefully at all the joints,around the little grease seals on the end caps,and you will probably find rust stains,or residue.If you do then that is most likely the one(s) causing your noise.As they wear further the squeek will turn to a clunk,and you will find noticable play in them.
Check the ones on the front axle too,the outer ones,as they can go bad as well.
I would bet it's most likely the front joint (at the diff),on the front driveshaft.This is usually the first to go.You can unbolt the diff end of the driveshaft,and try to move the joint,back and forth,and you will probably find it siezed.It can be replaced right on the truck,no need to pull shaft,if you have a u-joint press,or big c-clamp and a few sockets.Most auto parts stores will loan you the u-joint press (usually the same tool as a ball joint press).
My 01 F-250 had the same problem. I took it to my dealer and they replaced the CV joint and the driveshaft. It was a problem from the factory in my case. The hubs also had problems but did not squeak. Had those replaced too. That was at about 8,000 miles.
I'm almost positive its the hubs, plowed for 20 hours yesterday didn't make a peep until the last 4 hours then it came and went. sounded mostly like the left front, also it sounds more like bearings or a gear squeaking than anything.
The hubs,when in 4WD turn as one complete unit,so there is nothing in them that is turning to squeek.If the hub was not engaging properly.then I could see it making some noise,but you wouldn't go far plowing as you would not have 4WD.
I have had this exact same problem before!!
Brand new truck, only happened when (manual) hubs were engaged. Seemed to come more from driver side... most noticeable between 5-10mph. Squeak, squeak, squeak. Barely noticable, unless your listening for it.
The dealer said it is was common problem, not serious. Hub seal dust covers. They said I could leave it for the day, but I said no thanks... if it was just a noise, I would deal w/ it.
After a few nights of plowing in 4wd the noise is gone. If the rest of the front end looks ok, I'd say dont worry about it. The u-joints are non-serviceable for a reason... they last longer that way. Suposedly our new "grease-less" u-joints are the bomb.
The u-joints are non-serviceable for a reason... they last longer that way Is that what they told you?
Nope... most things that the dealer tells me goes in one ear and out the other...
This has been discussed at length over at http://www.thedieselstop.com
Lots of good knowlageable guys over there.
I'm a member over there too, missed that one.
I think you'll find many on this site who disagree.
Are you a big sandwich eater?;)
quote:
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The u-joints are non-serviceable for a reason... they last longer that way
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i dont think so.
explain to me how a u-joint that gets no grease is going to outlast one that gets greased. impossible.
just like the tie rods and ball joints that are non greaseable, they'll wear out faster.
it's been debated that a non greaseable u-joint is stronger, from not being cross drilled, and thier might be some truth to that, but thats another topic.

Does anyone have any pics of the new 05 F-250 SD????? When will the trucks be out? I assume it will look similar to the 150's.
check this out no pic's but nice ride
These are the only photos i've seen of it:
There is a little bit of info here: http://www.pickuptruck.com/html/2005...ty/caught.html
still sportin the V-10 badge :nod: :nod:
Just a little change in the grille and dash,but the big change is coil spring front end on 4x4s still a solid axle but a coil setup like a Dodge.Im gonna buy one but not till 06 when I trade in my 03 Supercrew for a V10 F250 Crew Cab.
that must be the emergency stop button on the dash :p :p :p
Better hurry up and get an 04... hate the new 05 dash design
I am very disapointed in the new set-up to coil springs. goin right down the shitter............Was the toughest truck made......now what we gonna plow with thats going to hold up.....like the trucks now..
Originally posted by JB1LNDSCPR
I am very disapointed in the new set-up to coil springs. goin right down the shitter............Was the toughest truck made......now what we gonna plow with thats going to hold up.....like the trucks now.. What? Coil springs will be alot better for plowing. Most people on this site agree.:nod:
Originally posted by Tom Smith
Better hurry up and get an 04... hate the new 05 dash design Wow, I looked at the picture at thought its about time they change the dash. Looks alot more sleeker and up to date then the current.
Where did you hear they were going to have coil spring front axles? I heard this too (forget where) but thought it was only speculation.
coil springs? why cant they just leave the truck alone i like the 99-04 style they change trucks around all the time the new 150 looks horrible along with the new expeditions and exploerers now their going to change the superduty i understnad they change it to make it better but they also make them uglier leave the style alone they look fine dodge ruined their truck also chevy makes their trucks look nicer every year but i like ford guess im keeping my 00 350 for a while

i have 2 '93 F-350. i need to do the rear brakes over. do i need to pull the axle out? this shouldn't be a big deal cause of the full floating rear end...right? (they are the small bolts around the hub?)
anything else i should be aware of?
i have done lots of brake jobs before, just not on a full floater.
thanks in advance!!!:drinkup:
take the tire off and see if the drum comes off without pulling the axle out.
i know on my 89' f-350 i dont have to take the axle out.
even if you have to pull them out, it's no big deal.
just make sure you get a spanner socket for the locknuts holding the wheel bearings on. makes the job a whole lot easier.
paul soccodato,
thanks fo ryour reply. could you please elaborate a little more on that?
on your truck i'm pretty sure you dont have to pull the axle out. on the earlier years it was neccessary.
take the tire off and see if the drum is in front of, or behind the hub.
most likely it will come off without having to take the axle out.
other than that, its a straight forward brake job.
You do not have to pull the axle,it's probably just the drum is siezed on the hub.Use some penetrating oil or some heat and a hammer,and it should pop off.
SUPER!!! thanks for the replies guys!!!
Take a close look at the wheel studs. If the drum has never been off, there may be 2 washer type spring clips holding the drum on. You can either try to unscrew them or knock them off with a chisel.
If the '89 has the updated style, your '93 most certainly will. It sure does make brake work a lot easier!