I found this site flatratetech.com after researching my problems with Ford. It has been very useful. These guys know their Fords.
That is an extremely useful site. I have it saved in my favorites. There is also a GM section. I have used the GM section and the Ford section a couple times each and have gotten good answers which were right on target. The guy Badhammer in the GM section really knows his stuff. I have known about that site for quite a while now, funny you should bring it up. Mike
Nice site,just put it in my favorites also.Figures i'd run into you there Mike with a "dumb" question:rolleyes: :D
what is the GM website address?i don't see it listed.thanks
johngus,scroll down the menu a lttle bit when your there,it's called the GM Forum,the moderator knows his stuff.

I was wondering where i can get some directions for the wiring harness for my western ultra mount snow plow? I need the directions for a 2000 F250 all i need is the diagram for harnesses that go on the truck. I have the harness and everything i need just no directions. Any help is appreciated.
thanks jim
Not sure if the info is here but you might try it.
http://www.westernplows.com/techinfo.asp?cat=5
Hope this helps.
Rick

Anyone know where I can find heavy duty front coil springs for a '93 F-150 on the web? I've been looking all over and can't seem to find any!
Not sure where you can find them online, but I got mine at a local spring shop. They work great on my 92 150.
Good luck
matt
Are they heavier than stock springs and how much were they?
Yes they are heavier than the stock springs, I'll see if I can find the price for you tonight. It was a few years ago I did it, but as I recall they were'nt to awfully expensive.
matt
I had a 92 F-150 reg cab, long box, 4X4, 300-6, 5 spd with a 8' Western, I plowed for 4 years with that truck. I bought the truck with the plow on it and the front end sagging badly with the plow on. So as soons as I got the truck I went to the auto parts house and got new coils for a 92 F-150 S.C. 4X4 long box, V-8, heavy duty ac, and auto tranny. They had either standard or heavy duty, I got the heavy duty ones and got 3" of lift out of them, and then truck only sagged 2", so it still sat about an inch higher with the plow up than it did when the truck was completely unloaded.
I just had a set of heavy duty front coils put on my 82 F150 two weeks ago. I also bought mine from a local spring shop.He said they were the heaviest ones I could put on my truck and the cost was just under $190.00 (installed). The truck looks much better with the new springs (about the same as a 250). I know you'll be happy when you get yours on.
I would purchase from local parts store , you can use coil springs for a 2wd 1ton put them in every 150 ive had easy to install as well cost wise moog sells for about 90.00 a set , takes care of any issues with sag thats forsure intil they settle the front end does set a little higher without the plow but no biggy they will settle.
regards fred

I have a 99 F-250 and am considering installing hide-away strobe lights. I have looked at both the Whelen and Tomar kits. What I was wondering is where in each of the lenses people are finding that they are best located. I searched the site and found lots of places for installing the power supply, but nothing realy outlining where they have located the bulbs themselves.
Thanks everyone! :waving:
Pete
I have a 01 F350 with 6 whalen hide aways. One each in the front directional. One in each brake light, the strobe was installed directly below the brake bulb. And then one in each reverse light. There is not much room at all in there for the reverse ones but they do fit. The whole was drilled about 1/4 of an inch from the whole for the reverse bulb. Good Luck
i have a nova 606 and my hide a ways are in the reverse lights and front markers.can't put them where they will flash red or clear in this state.i use amber strobes not clear ones so in the reverse light it flashes orange
In NY you cant use clear. Only amber. Can usually get away with red to the rear, but legally, only amber is allowed for non-emergency vehicle use. State Troopers here are cracking down hard on the clear strobes in the headlights. Dont do it! Besides, its confusing for other motorists. Lets all use amber as the law allows, and everyone will know we are engaged in highway operations, not emergencies.
You may want to think about putting some in the roof clearance marker lights instead of the turn signals...
Having them in the front directionals will get to be quite annoying after a few hours of the reflection off of the plow in your face. Plus, they're low and not very visible unless the plow is down.
I have an 02' 350 and will be installing a set soon... thinking about the roof markers, the reverse lights, and the two clear lights on either side of the third brake (amber bulbs).
Those tomar Neobes look like the ones I'll be getting too.
Being an Orange county native... as CPSS said, red or clear strobes are a big no no in NY.
We have been installing amber in the front headlights. When mounted to the center near the top of the radius it gives the effect of multiple flash because of the reflection off the inner mirrors of the housing.
Mounting in the brake lights with clear. Flashes red but shows up extremely well and the State boys would rather have us seen and not hit.
The marker lights are tricky. You'll loose your original bulb unless you do some creative wiring due to space problems. Same goes for the cargo lights by the center high brake light.
Got creative on one truck and put a set in the plow marker lights. Plug/unplug was a pain though.
Would like to do the back up light install but have poor visibility on the ones we have done vs. Brake light.
Going to french a set into a 2003 towing mirror running light bulb area.
12 heads going on that one. 2 headlights. 4 cab markers, 2 tail lights, 2 mirror markers and 2 cargo lights. 20 watt's per head on high power. There are other bulbs out there that are compatable allowing for tight installs. Just match the output wattage to the bulb.
Jerre

On our shop truck a 94 F-150 4X4 300-6. One of the guys came back and said the chech engine light popped on. So I started driving it and noticed that the check engine light started coming on when the engine is warm (temp gauge on R on normal, where it always has been) and I let off the gas or it is idling it pops on, step on the gas and about 10 seconds later it goes out, let off and it comes back on. It will only do this when the engine is warm. Cold motor, no light, when idling or on the gas. I pulled the codes and here is what I got:
113- Intake Air Temperature (IAT) circiut open/below -40 deg. F
173- Right HEGO indicates rich
179- Adaptive Fuel lean limit reached at part throttle, right side rich.
The truck only has one O2 sensor, at the Y pipe where cylinders 1-3 and 4-6 meet. Any ideas??
Sounds like either a failed or disconnected IAT sensor.Find the sensor and short the two connectors inside the plug,and do another KOEO test,or key on engine off test.It should not give you the opposite code for the IAT,don't have it handy though.If it does,it's a bad IAT,if not,then you have a wiring or ECM problem.
Your EGO codes,and adaptive strategy codes are probably being cause due to the IAT problems.Open or low IAT will cause the system to go hard rich,setting the rich EGO codes.
take alook at the egr valve it might be the problem
Next question, where is the IAT sensor?? I have never even heard of it. Thanks guys!!
Hmmmm......been a while since I poked around a 4.9L,but it should be mounted (screwed) into the intake manifold somewhere.It has a 1 1/8" hex brass body with a grey or white top.Connector will be black with two contacts.You should be able to find it.If not,I'll look it up mon when I get back into the shop.
wyldman, thanks for all your help!! I am not sure if I found the right sensor or not. The one that I found is on the #1 cylinder intake, just like you described (2 wires, sensor looks like it takes a 1" wrench or there abouts) could this be it? Coming from the same wiring harness (not the same wires, just the same wire block) there is a sensor going to the thermostat housing. If you could find out if I got the right one or if I must start looking again. Once again thankyou for your help!!!
Looks like you fuound it.It sould look identical to the one on the thermostat housing,except that one has a green body i thing.Take it out and take a look at it.It should have 3 little windows on the end with a small red or black bulb (a thermistor),in the middle.If it looks like that,you found it.
You can also test without pulling the sensor.If you disconnect it it will give you a hard code for the sensor being low,or open.If you short the two little pins in the end of the connector on the harness,it will throw the opposite hard code,high,or shorted.
Codes 173 and 179 are o2 sensor codes. I have a '93 f-150 4.9L and have had the same problem. Change the o2 sensor! It is located in the exhaust pipe right next to the tranny. It costs about $30-40 but it is worth it. The o2 sensor is an item that should be changed on a preventative maintenance schedule that most people overlook when doing oil changes and other tune up items, i.e. plugs,wires and cap and rotor.It is an easy fix that the dealer charges $100 for. Worst case senenrio is it will increase your fuel enconomy. Matt
smokey,you may be right with the oxygen sensor,but he's better off to clear up the IAT first,as it is probably causing the o2 codes.
The o2 sensor sometimes takes out the threads when they sieze,so what may seem like a simple o2 replacement,becomes a nightmare.I wouldn't touch it unless I had to.
OK, got the new sensor and replaced it. The old one was soo full of crap that I couldn't tell that colors anything was, and until I scrapped a little I couldn't even tell that there was a probe in the center of the cage. Now I just have to clear the codes. I just have to disconnect the battery for a little while and then reconnect it, right??
You can also clear codes with a code reader.I am assuming you have one as you did get codes.Do a KOEO test,and after the first code flashes (which should be an 11 if everything is OK),then turn off the key.Codes are now gone.
Doing it this way will keep all the adaptive strategy intact.If you want to reset it all,then pull the battery terminal (negative),and let it sit for 10-15 mins.
Does it run any better now and did it fix your problem ? Might want to check your oil for fuel fouling,as it is very common when the system runs hard rich like that.If it smells anything like fuel,change it.It's a lot cheaper than bearings.
Yep the truck runs great, or as good as a 300-6 with 190,000 miles can run. It time for the oil change anyway, so I will have one of the boys do that tomorrow. Actually I got the codes by useing a jumper wire and a test light on the OBD port, and counting the blinks of the light. Thanks a ton for your help!!!