I am going to be buying a new set of tires for my plow truck and I was wondering what kind you guys use, which ones to stay away from. Road noise is not a concern because the truck is used as a work truck only and not a daily driver.
Are you going to run them year round or just in the winter?>
Year round: Nokian Vativa
Winter only: Cooper discover m+s
Try these threads very informative.


I have always had outstanding performance from Wrangler AT/S.
Wrangler AT/S 10ply blackwall...the best in the business hands down!
The 10 ply's handle the weight better than any 6 or 8 ply tire and nails and road junk won't penetrate them. The tire weighs more than an average tire but it is unsprung weight and the extra cost is well worth it when you consider the weight of a plow on the front and a salter in the bed. :drinkup:
Whatever I put on the truck will stay on it year round, But I don't drive it very much in the summer and never on the highway so I really just need a good snow tire.
I have the Bridgestone Dueller Revo's on my truck and love them. They have a little road noise but for a work truck they would be great.
goodyear workhorse's extra grip. these are what i have on my truck. get them sipped and there even better.
I switched from Cooper Discoverer ATR's to BF Goodrich All Terrain KO's. The BFG's are great in the snow! Night and day difference over the Coopers!
Has anybody tried Daytona Timberline or Baja widetrack radial at? If tried both which is best in snow? Looking hard at the timberline in a 32 11.5 15. Running Goodyear wrangler at/s right now, I rate them as ok, but not great in snow.
Has anybody tried Daytona Timberline or Baja widetrack radial at? If tried both which is best in snow? Looking hard at the timberline in a 32 11.5 15. Running Goodyear wrangler at/s right now, I rate them as ok, but not great in snow.
sucks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
had a set of baja's if ya got out and took a piss and had to drive through the puddle you'd be stuck:)
Anybody used Dayton Timberline tires to plow with? Whats the feedback on these tires. Will be running 32 11.5 15's
I was kinda surprised when I looked at pics of the tires some of you guys use. I was expecting the to have a more aggressive tread on them. So am I right to assume ( I know what assuming does ass u me) that the more aggressive tires are really not that great in the snow?
goodyear workhorse's extra grip. these are what i have on my truck. get them sipped and there even better. I have the Workhorses on the rear of my F150. While I don't have a plow at the moment for this truck, It still drives good in the snow. The tires have a lot of grip!
Go to Hi-Tech Retreading. They have a good website. I know they are retreads but they are better than any other tire I have run. The all terrains are great snow tires. I have not had a chance to try the new "green diamond" tires but the regular AT's have not left me stuck hardly ever. I run these tires on my personal and company trucks. They are well priced and have a warranty. Go to their website if you want more info. Shipping is reasonable on these tires. Stay away form anything aside form the AT's in the snow though. Anyone else run these retreads B.T.W.?
i've got general all terains on my chevy it's the same exact tread pattern as the BFG's but alot less money and haven't had a problem.

Came across these on the net and was wondering if anyone has tried them and what their feedback was......(They are heated wiper blades) Kinda sounds like a good idea but don't wanna spend the cash unless I hear if they work or if its just another waste of time money and effort. So if anyone has actually used this product let me know what your take is on them.
http://www.everblades.com/pages/3/index.htm
Waiting for winter to arrive:sleeping:
They work well. The on/off switch is one of the highest quality OEM parts I have handled. Its a blade type switch that just the end of lights when on, not one of those cheap opaque light up pieces of junk. Much higher quality then say a meyer night saber switch. I know, who cares about the switch, but it's a example of the quality of the product. The blades themselves are replaceable for around 25 bucks retail, and are easy to change. This is the first winter I've used them, so they haven't been worked hard, but they've worked well when I have (used them.) They are so easy to install and remove I plan on putting my standard wipers back on for the summer.
Only been able to use mine for one storm and they were awesome. We had about 2 hours of very heavy snow and I never had any streaking from snow buildup or had to clear off the bottom of my windshield where it usually builds up.
Eventually I will be installing them on all my trucks.
Here's my question- does it keep freezing rain from collecting on the blade frame? My silicone unheated wipers do a great job of clearing the glass, it's those freezing rain and sleet storms that freeze the frames up solid I want to do away with. Thought about buying som elast season and was working with another manufacturer to create a heated frame only instead of the element, but my frames were not suitable.
Not sure, but I would think they would. I did not have to stop once and grab my wipers and snap them to clear the snow\ice chunks off.
I think I'll get a pair an give 'em a try, couldn't hurt I guess. I'll post a feedback thread afterwards.
:drinkup:
Waiting for winter to arrive...:sleeping:
I tried a pair, they really "streaked" alot. I wasn't impressed (for $85.00) with their performance. They melted the snow at the bottom of the windshield well, but streaked very badly to the point it was annoying.
i have them and love them as long as the windsheild is free from grease oil dirt etc they will not streak and melts anything that decides to form.
I asked this same question a short while ago, here is the link, there were some good response:


last night while plowing the check engine light and i believe the alternator light came on(parallel lines with a lightning bolt in the middle) i just want to make sure thats what the light is? and i just had the alt and battery checked, both working well...alt is putting out 164amps...what do you guys think the problem is?
without knowing what truck you have I have no idea- never seen a light like that - read your owner manual to see what the light is for.
If that is it, again depending on the truck... it could still be the alt going- brushes stick, bearings go, loose connections, .... lots of potential issues.
its a 03 Ram 2500 hemi with 8'6" boss straight blade...reason for asking is i dont have an owners manual, misplaced it someware along the line.
What size alternator do you have on that?? putting out 164 amps is impossible if its a factory alt....usually only a 105 max
I bet you had been plowing for a while and you were raising or angeling the plow. when the plow has reached it's limits of travel, it will go in to by-pass if you are still trying operate it.
This will draw more current, as the plow motor has more load on it.
If you were at the end of your push or at idle your alt is not putting out enough to compensate for the draw. This will cause the cheek engine light and the alt light to come on for an instant.
An alt does not put out it's max until it reaches around 2000 rpm
Check and clean your battery connections also check condition of altonator belt and tensioner, check battery with a hydrometer for specific gravity if you can...during a storm while you are plowing you are using more amps than you think (heater/defroster, wipers, lights, emergency lights,and the winner is the plow!!!!!) but the biggest problem is whean you are plowing you're plowing at a low RPM and your altonator cant keep up with it.... next time it happens look at your volts gauge than put the truck in low range and plow for a while in low and you will see the differance in voltage..........:guns: :eek:
Check and clean your battery connections also check condition of altonator belt and tensioner, check battery with a hydrometer for specific gravity if you can...during a storm while you are plowing you are using more amps than you think (heater/defroster, wipers, lights, emergency lights,and the winner is the plow!!!!!) but the biggest problem is whean you are plowing you're plowing at a low RPM and your altonator cant keep up with it.... next time it happens look at your volts gauge than put the truck in low range and plow for a while in low and you will see the differance in voltage..........:guns: :eek:

So my 7.5 Western Pro, which was working fine when I put it into storage is now really messed up.
Just put it on today.........
(1) it wont angle to either side and just pulls a lot of current when I try to<br>
(2)it really struggles raising all the way and it's hesitant to even make it half way<br>
(3)my plow headlights dont want to stay on (they were on, but shut off randomly)
Ill probably be having a professional take care of these problems but does anyone know what could possibly be wrong!?!?!?! it worked fine last time it was on the truck!!!!!
=( =( =( = ( =*(
So my 7.5 Western Pro, which was working fine when I put it into storage is now really messed up.
Just put it on today.........
(1) it wont angle to either side and just pulls a lot of current when I try to<br>
(2)it really struggles raising all the way and it's hesitant to even make it half way<br>
(3)my plow headlights dont want to stay on (they were on, but shut off randomly)
Ill probably be having a professional take care of these problems but does anyone know what could possibly be wrong!?!?!?! it worked fine last time it was on the truck!!!!!
=( =( =( = ( =*( 1st thing I would try is cleaning the plow side ground connector, hook a jumper cable to the battery neg and the other end to the plow motor on a clean connection and see what you get. if it operates good then your ground is bad and needs cleaning, is the fluid clean and is it western fluid? if it had water contamination then you may have a rust problem inside the valves and pump, sound more to me like you have a power distribution problem. what year/model plow is this? does it have a isolation module?
*running out the door with my jumper cables*
no change with the jumper cable thing....
so now the plow headlights turn on once the plow is raised and turn off when it's lowered............... ?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?
no change with the jumper cable thing....
so now the plow headlights turn on once the plow is raised and turn off when it's lowered............... ?!?!?!?!?!?!?!? what year plow is this?
honestly, not sure... it cant be that old, it's in great cosmetic shape
honestly, not sure... it cant be that old, it's in great cosmetic shape ok,
does it have 2 or 3 plugs?
2 plugs.... one plug has the power and ground which goes to the pump and the other plug has a bunch of connectors in it.. obviously for controls, lights etc?
did you pull the motor and check the screen on the pump?
2 plugs.... one plug has the power and ground which goes to the pump and the other plug has a bunch of connectors in it.. obviously for controls, lights etc? check all the pins in the control plug, be sure they are clean and not deteriorated on both plow side and mainly truck side, when you do that count how many pins it has, so i can go pull a copy of the wiring diagram.
let me know what you find.
should be a 7,8,9 11 or 12 pin connector
did you pull the motor and check the screen on the pump?
No idea how to do that... thats why I had "professionals" in mind
It's a 9 Pin The connectors looked pretty clean.. but any recommendation how to clean out those small holes?
No idea how to do that... thats why I had "professionals" in mind
It's a 9 Pin The connectors looked pretty clean.. but any recommendation how to clean out those small holes? very small file or a ice pick, then spray it out with brake cleaner or electrical terminal cleaner, terminal cleaner is best, then be sure to pack it full of dieletric grease.
You should apply some electrical grease to the connectors to make sure they stay clean and also so that they don't freeze. Had the same problem last year with a Western MVP. It's not a hydraulic problem so cancel that out. Dirty hydraulic oil doens;t trun your lights off. Also make sure all your solenoids are in tact. Sounds like you're really gonna have a rough first year plowin if you don't know how to fix your stuff. Good luck man. Let us know more about the results.
Im done with pin type connectors.
Screw them.
Therein lies most of your problems. You wont be able to get rid of all of them obviously, but this apparent need to remove your plow setup in a few seconds as opposed to ten minutes has made the use of these multi pin connectors necessary.
Go talk to Ray at Mill Creek.
Im done with pin type connectors.
Screw them.
Therein lies most of your problems. You wont be able to get rid of all of them obviously, but this apparent need to remove your plow setup in a few seconds as opposed to ten minutes has made the use of these multi pin connectors necessary.
Go talk to Ray at Mill Creek. I hear ya, more stupid little failures last year because of them, just a quirky problem here and there, that and those cheap little pinch on wire splicers they use to install the harness, I lost my left front parking light on the truck last year, started checking it out and found the wire cut in half by the splice connector. for something that is in the elements you would think they could come up with better weather proof connectors than those cheap azz little blue things.
Oh I know those things are so lame. Also....proper crimping of connectors is really important and a set of a good wire cutter/stripper and a good pair of half moon/v crimpers is very worth while. I always use fully insulated connectors and grease all wires and connections as well.
Im telling you Ive learned a lot about plows in general and my plow specifically lately and am convinced most of the problems with reliability and whatnot are electric/connection issues.
Least mine have been. Like I said I no longer have a 12 pin connector or whatever it was. I do have to disconnect seven connections if I take the plow frame off which is twice or three times a year. So I cant do it in 10 seconds. So what. I dont need too.
No luck with the terminal cleaner or grease....
IMO mill creek is a joke... I'm not sure who I talked to there but I went in twice and both times this guy was a tool. They're supposed to be a seadoo dealer but couldn't even fix my seadoo for me!
Anyway.. just called Mobile Hitch on main street in Whitmore Lake.. They sound concrete with their Western service and have been doing this for 11 years. Ill be dropping it off there on mon =(
Bigjeeping....
You really should try and fix it yourself.... Having to take it to a dealer/mechaninc can get costly. You have to rember that during a storm you may not ba able to run over to a repair shop and get it fixed. And being able to solve simple problem yourself can save you not only money, but time.
You stated it worked when it whent into storage... so lets troubleshoot the plow.
When you try and angle it you said it does not move, but draws a lot of current. I assume the current draw is from the electric motor running... Am I correct.
If the motor runs, and it does not move the problem could be the 9 pin connector not making goot connection, which also can explain why your headlamp do not work all the time. The slow lift could be a clogged filter, or possibly the selenoid valves not working properly...
Well I have the owner's manual, which goes through trouble shooting but I have no idea how to do the stuff they recommend....
Well I cleaned the connectors pretty well, so i am assuming that everything is connected fine...
The motor makes some noise and pulls current (all lights in truck go dim) when you try to angle it..... there is nothing blocking it from being able to angle.
It lifts about half way fine, then it starts to struggle and make noise, but it will make it to the top... thats when the plow headlights turn on
When i drop the plow it free falls down, and the plow headlights turn off.....
Any help would be appreciated... maybe Ill try to tackle this on my own but It'll take some love from you guys!