can u switch a two wheel drive truck to a four wheel drive truck.
If possible how can u do it and how much would it be
it is possible, however, the 4x4 frames are generally heavier, and you may have a lot of fab work to do depending on the particular vehicle you are looking to modify. Such as spring mounts, transfer case crossmember, steering components, rear driveshaft carrier, reinforcing the frame. Not to mention finding the right parts, such as transmission with correct tailstock, transfercase, front axle with correct differential offset and spring and shock mounts (or else you will have to fab them also).
This is only a partial list of the required things. As you can see it wont be easy or quick. In most cases you would be better off to sell the 2wd and buy a 4x4. Buying a truck will most likely end up being cheaper, even if you dont count your personal labor costs.
Just buy a 4x4....it will be cheaper an not as much of a headache
can u switch a two wheel drive truck to a four wheel drive truck.
If possible how can u do it and how much would it be Can be done in all Makes.Cost to pay someone other than youself to do it = Alot$$$.If This is your Chosen path Though IMHO Dodge Products Would be best Choice of Conversion.You Should Also have Both ENTIRE VEHICLES ON Site Due to THE Excessive parts swapping required!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
i was just wondering cause my uncle was thinking changing his 1994 ford f150 4x2 it to a 4x4 plow truck but i will tell him he may want to sell it and find a
4x4 for the same price he is selling it for but then again he may not sell and just plow two wheel drive.
thanx for the replies
Just buy a 4x4....it will be cheaper an not as much of a headache ROTFL.....I agree with that!!! :drinkup:
I’m in the middle of doing another 2wd to 4x4 swap on a 80’s dodge. Both swaps that I have done I got rusted out 4x4 with the same wheelbase. Start out with the 4X cleaned and repaired the frame, transmission transfer case and drive lines. Roll the rusted body off, then take the bed and front clip off the 2wd. Remove the seat and carpet from both cabs. With Dodge you need to modify tunnel on the 2wd cab. I normaly cut the 4X hump out and place it over the 2wd floor draw around it remove it. now give yourself 2 inches the whole way around your line cut that out and graft the 4x tunnel to the floor. Swap the cab to 4x frame, motor and wiring harness also. If you did the tunnel right it should shifter should come up the hole without and issues. Then put the front clip and bed back on.
Brakes –all new lines keep the booster MC and propping valve with the 4x
Steering – on both swaps I have done the column was the same but you need to use the steering box off the 4x.
4X- there is no 4X light inside once your done.
The red/white plow truck in the picis the first 2wd to 4x4 swap.
Unless your using a 2x4 for a body swap to save a 4x4 like Rodhall, why would you want to? :dizzy: Good luck finding a plow mount for a 2 wheel drive f-150.
Sell the 2x buy a 3/4 ton 4x and be done with it.
I did it to my 2x4 Powerstroke '95 F350 dually crew cab. I bought the truck with plans to do this because ford never made a dually 4x4 truck in XLT trim and crew cab.
The only (pre '98 ford) 4x4 duallys you see out there were either made using 4x4 trucks and dually adapters or cab an chassis trucks.
It was worth it to me because I couldn't buy a truck like I wanted and I had most of the parts to do it from a wrecked '89. All I needed was a dually axle. I found one that was in a fire and got a deal. I had to do minimal work to the frame. (drill holes, cut two notches, and weld in a couple shackle boxes. An F150 would probably be harder to do and definately not worth it for all the 4x4s there are out there. -phillip
Ok, summary:
Can it be done- yes.
What will it entale- a LOT of work
Best method- buy a 4x4 and do a body swap.
Basically our advice: Sell the 2wd and buy a 4x4- save the headaches, hassle, work, and wasted effort.
Unless you're situation is the same as KentuckyDiesel having all the parts except one don;t bother. Had he not had the extra parts already the simpler solution would have been buy the 4x4 and upgrade the interior to XLT.
amazingly many people think it's a simple operation to make a 2wd a 4x4, depending on the exact vehicle you are starting with it may be, a late model ANYTHING is a poor choice because they're all going to require frame and suspension modification from the independant front to a solid axle setup or to a 4wd independant setup, which if not precisly done means alignment trouble or worse.

My new truck is a Dodge 2500 Regular Cab 4X4. Just had a Meyer's Poly Plow installed and when I picked it up, I was in a hurry and did not get to look at it in detail. When I got home, I noticed that the front bumper where it wraps around the front of the truck is flush with the headlights on the passenger side and about 3 inches lower than the headlights on the driver side. When I took it in to have the install done (a Meyer authorized dealer/installer) the bumper was about 3/4 inch below the headlights on both sides. I also found 3 nickle sized burns in the plastic piece that is a top the bumper just below the driver side headlight. I will post pics as soon as I get the film developed.
My question is, is this just an adjustment or did the installer drill holes in the wrong place and as a result, this is how my bumper is gonna be now. I am mad as hell and will take it up with the dealer on Monday since they are closed on Sunday. It is really unprofessional looking to me. If this was an old truck, I wouldn't mind as much as everything functions well, but this truck is 4 months old and only has 5K miles on it. From the side is where it is immediately noticed......Passenger side, the bumper is pressed right up against the fender and driver side is 2.5 to 3 inches lower than the fender.
Its just an adjustment, the brackets that go from the frame to the bumper are slotted on the frame side. Just need to loosen up to nuts per side and give the bumper a tug to the position you want it, or take it back and have the dealer do it.

Hi guys,
I have a 1993 GMC Sierra 2500 with a Fisher belt driven 7.5' plow. When I raise the plow and let it sit, within 20 minutes the plow will have lowered an inch or so. (the other day I put it up all of the way and within a couple of hours it eventually lowered all the way to the ground) The same happens if I am driving around with the plow up every 15-20 minutes it will lower a little bit. Does that mean that I have a leak somewhere in the system? I checked the fluid in the pump and it is still full. I always park it in the same spot in the driveway and it doesn't leak anything. Any idea's ??? Thanks.:salute:
Tom
http://www.fishersnowplows.com/pdf/28435_120503.pdf

i have a 2000 f -350 ext cab pick up and the second week i had the cruise control stopped working, im told it is the spring under the switch on the steering wheel. I wondering how hard it is to replace? Is the air bag hard to take out and put back in? Any suggestions or steps to doing this job would be appreciated. Or is it to much and i should take it to a garage to have done
Thanks
Bob
The spring you are referring to is called the clockspring- it is the connection from the steering wheel electronics to the steering column.
Unless you have diagnosed it yourself (which I gather you have not) I would suggest diagnosing it yourself OR having it diagnosed by a good shop before trying to replace it. Clocksprings are rarly the fault. They are the same mechanism that connects the horn button in the steering wheel from back in the 1950's, and rarly fail on such a new vehicle. Odds are it's something else.
IF however it is the clockspring: If you have tio ask about airbag systems removal, don't do it. the actual mechanics of removing the bag cartridge and wheel is not tough, but it can be tricky, dangerious and easily screwed up. you will need a steering wheel puller and the service info (with airbag suppliment which may not be part of the manual) as a minimum.
You have to remove the bag cartridge, steering wheel, probabily cruise switch module from the wheel, and possibly the lock cylinder. Remember the bag cartridge is an explosive device, there are certain procedures you must follow for safety- it's not like changing wheel bearings or shocks- if it goes off while you're removing it you can be seriously hurt. The conditions during attempting to service it and when you're in an accident where it deploys are completely different, remember.
I'm all for self repair, but if you don't know airbags don't risk it (plus they are expensive as all geck ro replace if it does trigger)
ok so from everything i have heard on my truck i would gather that it isnt the clockspring, where else should i look, someone told me that there is another switch on the mastercylinder that could be bad, does anyone know how to check that? Or any other ideas?
thanks
Bob Haak
ok so from everything i have heard on my truck i would gather that it isnt the clockspring, where else should i look, someone told me that there is another switch on the mastercylinder that could be bad, does anyone know how to check that? Or any other ideas?
thanks
Bob Haak Unfortunately Todays Modern Automotive Electronics have taken away the Diagnostic Capabilities from Vehicle Owners and Backyard mechanics.That is not to say That people are Stupid.That is to say that Diagnostic Equipment is Kept by the manufacturers at High Cost.You have to be willing to spend $2500.00 and up to purchase these aids and just to diagnose one problem that cost cant be justified.At some point The cost of these aids will come down thru competition.You cant just point and say change your Points and Condenser and it will Run better anymore.Sad but true Most problems need complex diagnosing and this must be done at Equipped Facilities.The Manufacturers have Learned That Service Dollars are just as good as Purchase Dollars. Sorry Friend Just the Facts:realmad: :realmad:
Although I'm not a Ford guy, I'd check for vacuum hoses and canisters for leaks or broken hoses unless you are sure its electrical. I think it'll also have a cruise module too which may also have loose or broken wires or connections. As for the brake switch that will be on the brake light switch used to deactivate the system when braking...check by your brake pedal for that switch. (probably not the problem) Cruise isn't that complicated itself just where they installed the components is.
yeah, you both are right. The computer in the truck will probabily tell you with the help of an OBD2 code reader (rentable at most autoparts stores.....)
aside from that check vacuum lines for leaks, check the switch on the brake pedal (it may use the stoplight switch or have it's own switch), check the electrical connections relating to the system componants- it could be an electronic system or a vacuum system. Odds are both are involved. There should also be a vacuum switch somewhere under the hood to let the system know you have vacuum- if there is no vacuum the cruise system will not likely function. Look for a round thing bolted under the hood with a single vacuum line going to the center of one side and a 2 wire connector coming off the side.
If they all check out I would rent an OBD2 reader, it plugs in under the dash. It could be really simple or it could be a vehicle speed sensor has gone bad so the cruise does not know how fast the truck is actually going.
Ford had a recall for cruise control problem, chech and see if it was covered. Didnt pay attention to what it was for, but they did something to my 2000 f150
how do i go about finding out about recalls by ford?
Thanks
Bob
you could search the web, try dieseltruckresource.net (.com?) or call your local dealer- they'll be able to tell you by your VIN if you're truck is under recall for anything and the recall history (what's already been fixed under recall).
Try posting you question here or search for cruise control in the forums. http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/index.php