How much would a 97 ext. cab 8 ft bed diesel automatic weigh in at. I was just curious because my friend has this truck and he keeps arguing that it weighs 9000 pounds but that is the GVWR(8900 to be exact). So just give me a rough estimate on the wieght so i can figure out how much the truck and trailer combo we pull weighs in at.
Thanks
Eric
well my '97 chevy diesel weighs in at 6400Lbs reg cab. so I'm gonna guess that that truck would be in at 7k-7,700 lbs.best way to find out is go to a transfere station they have a truck scale and will weigh you in that is what I did.
cool thanks
I once had to get the weight of a trailer when I transfered the title from MD to PA. I went to my local truck stop and used their scale. First I went on with the trailer then I droped the trailer and did just my truck.
Since I did it within a few minutes they were nice enough to only charge me for 1 weighing (not that it was that expensive).
Well if the vehicle says that the GVW is 8900 lbs, that being the gross weight all you have to find is the light weigth. IS this a F-250 or and F-350?
I would probably bring the truck to a scale house and see empty what is weights, but I might guess something like 6800 to 7400 lbs
Also remember I believe that the rule of thumb is tonque weight is only 10 or 15% of trailer weight. So if you pull a 10,000 trailer at most you should be putting on 1500 pounds. You might be at the weight limit as long as your not loaded in the truck bed. Also remember above 10,000 trailer you might need a CDL in some states. CT you do.
My 2000 F 250 Extended cab, standard trans, long box, PS shipping weight is 6800. Add a tool box, driver, fuel and the weight goes up. No way is this dudes truck weighing 9K unless he has added a lot of stuff to the truck. If you can find a farm CO OP you can weigh there for free. If not a Flying J charges $7 for a scale.

I know very little about fords. My mom has a friend looking to get rid of a 67 that runs and has newer tires. I need help knowing what to look for...If it has any decent engine in it my buddywants it for his bronco. I am willing to pick it up if people think there is a market to part this sucker out after the engineis gone. I knowa c6 tranny is good and a 9" is worth something. what else is there to look for?
You come here to ask about sacrificing a Ford???:confused: ;)
The market you're looking for is shrinking daily, today's kids are hopping up rice rockets instead of Detroit iron. The truck might be worth more complete instead of parted out, unless you find the right buyers. It might take a while to sell all the parts.
Try http://www.fordtrucks.com , better change your ID though.:D

I recently have done some fuel tank mods to my 2001 F-350 7.3 Powerstroke and I didn't install a pre-pump fuel filter. I had gotten a lot of dirt in the fuel system and have cleaned from the OEM fuel filter back to and including the fuel tank. I am now receiving the codes P1272 ( high to low side open cylinder #2 ) and P1316 ( injector circuit / IDM codes detected ). My questions are, what exactly does the high to low side open mean? Could the dirt in the fuel line have caused this? Will Ford be able to tell I've done these mods without dropping the tank and thereby canceling my warranty? Any and all comments will be appreciated since I'm not sure if I should take the pick-up to Ford for the repairs or take it to an independent mechanic and pay for the repairs. Thanks again.
As far as the codes I will flat out tell you I don't know. On the fuel tank mods I have heard of dealers canceling warranties because of this exact thing. It seems to depend on the Dealer. Go to "thedieselstop.com" and ask about the codes in the superduty forum and you should get a response as to what causes your particular ones.

In my 75 f-250 the clutch I believe the clutch is now totally gone. But iam not sure. The clutch does not slip at all. What it does is it does not like going into the gears exspecially 2nd to first. When u chumb down on it it does not slip it will just not come out of gear. could this be a throwout bearing problem instead of the clutch inself. A clutch will run me about 209.00 from napa. If it is a throw out bearing how much does one cost. I do realize the throw out bearing has a slim chance of being the culpret. to get it to go in and out of gear i have the mechanicial adjustment cranked up now.
thanks and sorry about the long post
What does the pressure plate do also?
The pressure plate is on the opposite side of the clutch from the flywheel. I had a pressure plate cause the same problem you are having. A couple springs/pins were broken and it wouldn't disengage.
Here is an exploded view :
http://www.howstuffworks.com/clutch2.htm
If you've got the tranny down, it would be silly not to replace everything, Disc, pressure plate and T/O bearing. check your flywheel for bluing from heat, this indicates high spots and it should be cut. It will engage much smoother if cut.
Just thought of something:
Before you drop the tranny, check that the t/o bearing fork ends are not worn and jumped the track. That would cause the condition you describe too.
how do you check the t/o bearing fork ends with out droping the tranny? is it hard to check or replace and what do u mean by they could have jumped the track.
I don't know your tranny specifically, but these are generic instructions:
The T/O bearing has a slotted ring on it, or sometimes ball joints with spring clips to hold the clutch fork to the bearing. If either of these get worn, broken or rusted, it can cause the symptoms you describe.
Remove your adjustment rod and work the clutch fork by hand, it should be smooth on the whole length of travel. There is a collar on the nose of the tranny that the T/O bearing slides on, this can get worn too.
Next pull off the rubber boot the fork goes through and look at the T/O bearing with a flashlight. The fork should be centered on the bearing evenly, not leaning to one side or the other. If it is, here's your trouble. Pull off the fork to see if it is worn or the T/O bearing is.
Also inspect the fulcrum point of the fork to make sure the geometry is correct. If this is worn excessively your clutch won't function properly. Some of these fulcrum points are adjustable, if you are out of spec, your clutch won't disengage either.
If all this stuff checks OK, then your pressure plate is probably broken like Dave suggested. You'll have to remove the items I spoke of to drop the tranny anyways, so the work won't be for nothing.
the clutch was fine until i put a 3 inch bodylift on the truck and welded in a exstention piece. Ever since it has been goin down hill. the clutch does not spring all the way back up either it just stays hangin off the floor alittle but if u help it out it will stay at its normail possition.
Well, 3" body lift and the extension of the linkage could certainly change things.
Couple questions: Is the piece that has been added to the clutch linkage the correct length, and was that extension added to the correct part of the clutch linkage?
Also, is there considerably more body "flex" than before the lift kit went on? Since one end of the clutch linkage is up in the cab, and the other down on the frame, a cab that's moving around more than normal can have an effect on things too.
the exstenton piece was exactly the right size 3 in. It was included in the kit. and i welded it in the up and down section of the lingage that comes out of the cab.
I do not believe flex has much to do with it since it will do it goin down a flat straight road and sittin level in the garage.
Rob is right, you've opened up a whole new can of worms here. When you change the geometry of the clutch linkage, anything can happen.
I've been kicking this around in my head today and I believe you would have to extend the swing arm to the clutch and the adjusting rod too. I think I remember you asking about the pedal problem before. I believe your pedal is going past center of the spring load, this is why the pedal won't return. By lengthening the swing arm, you've changed the amount of travel the clutch pedal will have. You must lengthen the adjusting rod to compensate. I'm still not sure the clutch will work right since the swing arm is working at a different radius now.
It might be easier to find a hydraulic or cable clutch linkage and adapt it to your truck, these would compensate for the lift kit much more easily.
By the way, you might want to reconsider your signature...;)
i exstended the lincage up in down were else do i need to exstend it ? How long of a piece should i add? Iam about ready to just get read of the body lift any way and just do a flip flop the shackels in the rear and buy some positive arch springs for the front. This body lift is causin nothin but problems for me. One good thing is that its a lot easier to work on stuff now.
when i was using danys truck and it was tiped up on the banking i had no problem shifting it but when i was on flat ground it would not work
your clutch is shot i would a berfore trying anything else bleed the clutch and a throw out bearing is about 3.00-9.00 at auto zone here well i just packed a 5.0 in my 88 f150 with new clutch and trow out its a pain to take the trow out bering out to do it you need to take the engine tranny or both out i did it befor i put it in after the engine was it the clutch was sticky i stuck to the floor also after repacint if and bleeding it it works like a champ before it was grabby not it is smooth as silk
your clutch is shot i would a berfore trying anything else bleed the clutch and a throw out bearing is about 3.00-9.00 at auto zone here well i just packed a 5.0 in my 88 f150 with new clutch and trow out its a pain to take the trow out bering out to do it you need to take the engine tranny or both out i did it befor i put it in after the engine was it the clutch was sticky i stuck to the floor also after repacint if and bleeding it it works like a champ before it was grabby not it is smooth as silk:drinkup: :drinkup:
Dave K, where are you????
Any hair left?

I was wondering ig i could put fuel injection of my 75 390 f-250. Is there a catalog or a web adress where i could get any info. on this subject Or is there not a kit available for convertion. Thanks
I think Holley makes a Pro-Jrction kit for that engine. Try www.summitracing.com for more info. Personally, I wouldn't buy anything fron them dur to their lack of Ford products in their catalog and they tend to be a bit pricey. The Pro-Jection is simply a throttle body injection similar to early 1990's GM trucks. I think it is around $1500.00 but I could be wrong.