I fired up the truck this morning (99 F250 7.3L) and i noticed it was dripping. Traced it back and the bleeder line for the pressure relief valve if leaking i wiggled it back and forth but cant get it to stop. I called My mechanic and he said this is a common problem and that he has already done 6 this year. Is this something i can replace my self or should i leave it to him. He ordered me the part today and said he would have it tomorrow morning and could get it in right away. Any suggestions should i leave it to him of should i do it my self, also any idea on the cost. let me know thanks.
are you sure its not the o-rings at the fuel bowl there the dain is ? thats the most common fuel leak that there is its a every easy fix just get the o-rings then bleed off fuel pressure repair and then fire her up check for leaks . i'd thorw a filter in if havn't changed it along time
i dont know what is the culprit all i know is the fuel is coming right out the hose

Hello all!!
Wow lots of good info on here. I am new to the job of plowing snow and would like to get a starter truck for me and my son. My wife and I both own our own businesses and could use the extra winter income.
I was wondering if anyone out there in snow plow land would happen to be wanting to upgrade equipment.
Anyway I would like to get either a 78 or 79 F150/250/350 4wd or an 87 up to 93 F250/350 4wd with the blade already on it or at least the mount on the 78-79.
In decent condition... not perfect but very usable for between $2000 and $3000
I will travel 300 to 400 miles if I have to to pick up.
Also if you are in Ohio we may be able to do some trading if guns or things like that are of interest to you.
I am also a KIOTI tractor/Country Clipper 0-turn dealer so if you are in the need of a tractor or mower and have a plow truck you would like to replace you can always use the truck as a trade in.
I can also get Meyer equipment at a low cost.
I have been scanning classifieds like a wildman and am finding a few trucks but nothing special.
Thanks in advance to everyone.
KO
A friend of mine wants to sell his 88 F250. He has a Western mount on the truck but nothing else. I'll talk to him by the weekend to see what's up with the truck.
Have you tried searching the bigger newspapers classifieds ads online? Like the Akron Beacon Journal, Cleveland Plain Dealer etc.
Truck trader has a few in each issue too. Good luck at this time of year finding one. Remember the older the truck the more repairs and parts it will need regularly. I have an 89 Ford and there is always something needing attention or replaced.

Does anyone have a phone number or know how to get in contact with the Ford reps about a 6.0 Powerstroke problem. Ive had my truck in constantly for warranty problems; truck killing, EGR valve x4, anti-freeze smell and leak, etc. and they wont ever give me a truck to drive when its in for service. Ive had it with Ford....done and never again. I'm at the point where all I want is the damn thing gone. Any help is appreciated. :crying:
hey man that really sux that you are having so many problems. I dont know of any rep #s but a place to try could possibly be the ford website. Im not really sure honestly. Maybe a dealer will have a few #s on hand as well. I will say, that just because you had a bad experiance with your 6.0 does not mean you should rule out ford competely imo. my 7.3 has been a dream for me and even the later 6.0s have been pretty good. The new diesel is doing pretty good too. I know that if I were to switch, id go dodge, something about the cummins and a id like to stick with the solid axle.... Good luck man, sux to see anyone with any brand have such a hard time.
1st off you are running a tuner on that truck. Even on a tow program you can cause a lot of issues on a 6.0 It's not Fords fault you are asking for more than the engine was designed for. 2ndly ,Why have you not had your tuner set up to shut off the EGR. That would help out a lot on your EGR and anti-freeze complaints.
Have them pressure test your lines for the coolant smell it may be a heater block core issue, I have seen this to be the issue before, the EGR been in 4x? Have they replaced it or just cleaned it? Also head over to the dieselstop.com they are wonderful over there, and more than helping may be able to help you figure this out before it snows. Dont be afraid to call the GM at the ford dealer and speak with him/her (be friendly ..momma always said you get more with sugar than ....who knows the restxysport). Best and luck and hope all works out very soon. (Even though I have a ford the GM's are beautiful and ride like a car, not sure if they are workable I personally havent had one but wow they are beautiful.)
Both of the dealers the truck has been to sell tuners and everything there and have said thats not what is causing it. The EGR has beeen replaced each of the four times.I have not had the tuner installed and running in over 3 months. I have still lost 2 EGR Valves in the stock setting that was done by the dealer. Hell, last time the truck died at the stop sign not 100 feet from the dealers lot and their response was "Well, if you can spare without it for atleast 2 days then pull her back in, otherwise I guess deal with it." WTF!!! The smell has been taken care of now by the way. Thanks for your input guys, I appreciate it!
i have a 03 6.0 w/ no issues no mods either. close friend has 04 w/ 6.0 w/ programmer and had lots of egr issues. I have had poor experiences @ 2 Ford dealerships. finally found dealer w/ mechanics that knows more about diagnostics than what the computer tells them. recommend new dealership if there is one close by.
i have a 03 6.0 w/ no issues no mods either. close friend has 04 w/ 6.0 w/ programmer and had lots of egr issues. I have had poor experiences @ 2 Ford dealerships. finally found dealer w/ mechanics that knows more about diagnostics than what the computer tells them. recommend new dealership if there is one close by. I see your in Roscoe....which dealerships have you went to? I've been to Fairway Ford in Freeport and aint going back (I wouldnt buy a bicycle from them people) and Bryden Ford in Durand.
If you did not have trouble with your PS, would you still not like your truck?
If you did not have trouble with your PS, would you still not like your truck? No I wouldnt. It went through ball joints, tie-rods, and axle seals in a matter of 6 months, cloth interiors suck, etc.
I have been through plenty of 6.0 problems and the bottom line is they are piles of sh*t. They cant fix them becuase there is no fixes. The Egr's clog the turbo's clog and the oil coolers leak the headgaskets leak etc. I traded my last one in on a new 08 F450 6.4 and other then a couple leaking radiators the truck is awsome. I would call ford customer hotline and see if they will give you some assistence but I wouldent expect it. Ford spent over 1 BILLION dollars on 6.0 warenty repairs. the hotline number is 18002413673 I spent hours on the phone screaming at them and really got knowhere except some assistence twords a new truck let me know if I can help you more I have been there I feel your pain
No I wouldnt. It went through ball joints, tie-rods, and axle seals in a matter of 6 months, cloth interiors suck, etc. Sorry to here you got a bad one,maybe I should be glad I have a 5.4,I will have to wait on the other stuff, only 12,000 miles.I did have a steering box take a crap at 5000 miles.It had a rough spot when you turned the steering wheel.
Mary Sue Bailey at ford motor company is who i dealt with. she can send your complaints to the right people and she is very helpful. dont accept a letter from colleen rose coventry as that is not even a real person. it is a fake name that ford puts on their warranty denial letters to try to discourage you. good luck i spent 12 months trying to get warranty on an engine replacement due to a mass air flow sensor failing, causing erratic boost indication and made the turbo do all kinds of crazy things. 8000 dollars later i paid for a nother engine and my rig back on the road. antifreeze smell is blown head gaskets more than likely................mine was. there are no good dealers left. i will buy a totaled truck from now on and let my local body shop rebuild for 1/2 the price. btw mary sue baileys number is 313-337-1935 good luck
I have an 04 and it has had a few issues but I still love the truck. To be specific before I bought it it had head gaskets done (not sure on the full story but I think the last owner blew it with a tuner). About 20,000 KM after I purchased it I had a coolant leak which was the egr cooler. Mechanic also noticed poor performance so he replaced the turbo which turned out to be damaged. Truck was out 3 days, 100$ deductible and I'm good to go again. I think 90% of the battle is a good mechanic, mine knows exactly what to look for and knows exactly what hes doing. I don't really care what has to be replaced, as long as it is warranty, and once warranty has expired I will trade in on an 06 or 07.
Cheers
Jeff
Dont need to worry anymore....I called Ford and told them the story and since they didnt want to help me at all, they lost a lifetime customer with me. Got rid of the Powerstroke yesterday for a 2500HD Duramax. Pisses me off Ford wouldnt help but oh well.

i currently have a 1997 F350 dump 4x2 witha 5.8. i got the truck 2 years ago from a company that went out of biz.(construction) anyway i am starting to have some bigger thing go wrong with it and it will cost me about 2500-3000 to repiar everything. at that point i will have about 8k invested in the truck. cab and body are solid trans was new when i bought it. i have looked and to find anything that doesnt need about the same amount of work im looking at 15k-18k. should i fix this one up or sell it and get a newer one.im leaning more toward fixing this up and run it another year or 2.
Its cheaper to keep it then to have a payment.You cant do any of the work yourself? To save some money. I just did my head gaskets myself and saved 2000.00.
that is doing the work myself i used to be a truck mechanic so i can do it all. can probably get away with about 1800-2000 in parts. only thing i was going to take anywhere was to get the exhaust done.
you must have some major repairs for those cost what is wrong with her ? if the truck makes you alot of money i'd keep it

2004 f250 SuperCab
I am looking to run a set of LEDS in my back window, I want to use power from under the dash rather then pulling from the battery, I have already tapped the Cig Lighter to run the front LEDS..
Is there any 12volt unused power source under the dash that I can tap into??
I don’t care if its only on with the ignition or not..
SERIES SUPER DUTY 2002 -2005
KEY T-HARNESS IMMOBILIZER
N/A FD-1 (2002-2005 ONLY) N/A
PART COLOR LOCATION DIAGRAM
12 VOLT CONSTANT YELLOW (+) and LIGHT GREEN/PURPLE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
STARTER DARK GREEN (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
STARTER 2 N/A
IGNITION 1 WHITE/YELLOW or RED/LIGHT GREEN (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
IGNITION 2 RED/BLACK (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
IGNITION 3 N/A
ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 1 GRAY/YELLOW (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 2 DARK BLUE/LIGHT GREEN (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
KEYSENSE N/A
PARKING LIGHTS ( - ) N/A
PARKING LIGHTS ( + ) BROWN (+) @ HEADLIGHT SWITCH
POWER LOCK See NOTE *1
POWER UNLOCK See NOTE *1 26500_F-SERIES-SUPER-DUTY_FORD GEM WAKE UP DIAGRAM II.pdf
LOCK MOTOR WIRE PINK/BLACK (+) IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL
DOOR TRIGGER BLACK/LIGHT BLUE (+) IN EITHER KICK PANEL
DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION USE DOOR TRIGGER, Requires Part #775 Relay
TRUNK RELEASE N/A
SLIDING POWER DOOR N/A
HORN DARK BLUE (-) @ STEERING COLUMN HARNESS or VSM, See NOTE *2
TACH Any wire that is NOTE RED/LIGHT GREEN, See NOTE *3 @ IGNITON COILS
WAIT TO START LIGHT See NOTE *4
BRAKE LIGHT GREEN (+) @ SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL
SERIES SUPER DUTY 2002 -2005
KEY T-HARNESS IMMOBILIZER
N/A FD-1 (2002-2005 ONLY) N/A
PART COLOR LOCATION DIAGRAM
12 VOLT CONSTANT YELLOW (+) and LIGHT GREEN/PURPLE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
STARTER DARK GREEN (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
STARTER 2 N/A
IGNITION 1 WHITE/YELLOW or RED/LIGHT GREEN (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
IGNITION 2 RED/BLACK (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
IGNITION 3 N/A
ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 1 GRAY/YELLOW (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 2 DARK BLUE/LIGHT GREEN (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
KEYSENSE N/A
PARKING LIGHTS ( - ) N/A
PARKING LIGHTS ( + ) BROWN (+) @ HEADLIGHT SWITCH
POWER LOCK See NOTE *1
POWER UNLOCK See NOTE *1 26500_F-SERIES-SUPER-DUTY_FORD GEM WAKE UP DIAGRAM II.pdf
LOCK MOTOR WIRE PINK/BLACK (+) IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL
DOOR TRIGGER BLACK/LIGHT BLUE (+) IN EITHER KICK PANEL
DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION USE DOOR TRIGGER, Requires Part #775 Relay
TRUNK RELEASE N/A
SLIDING POWER DOOR N/A
HORN DARK BLUE (-) @ STEERING COLUMN HARNESS or VSM, See NOTE *2
TACH Any wire that is NOTE RED/LIGHT GREEN, See NOTE *3 @ IGNITON COILS
WAIT TO START LIGHT See NOTE *4
BRAKE LIGHT GREEN (+) @ SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL
Fantastic, thanks for the post. Maybe my trifocals aren’t cutting it anymore because I don’t see any lines in the note that references unused, empty, accessible, ignition only, or free
Sorry man,
I don't know if there are any unused but you could check your fusebox.
These would be on only when the ignition is and shows color and location,
ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 1 GRAY/YELLOW (+) ( IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS )
ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 2 DARK BLUE/LIGHT GREEN (+) ( IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS )
Then you've got this.
12 VOLT CONSTANT YELLOW (+) and LIGHT GREEN/PURPLE (+) (IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS )
Wire in a fuse, a switch and you should be good to go.
I'm a chevy guy, just trying to help.:salute:
Maybe a way easier way for ya - Autozone or who ever sells a piggy back fuse - basically a part that plugs into a fuse location but allows you to run two seperate fused circuits. the part has a pigtail, run that to a switch and from the switch to the light - bingo.
i never really like splicing into wires, always potential for problems.
Or if you want to spend some coin, get the uppfitter switches and relay - about $145, factory switches.
We run the plow lite toggle switch, aux power to spreader, spreader lite and strobe lites thru the upfitter switches, it's almost easier to wire.
you don't happen to have the auxillary switches do you? if so you could just wire straight into them