trying to price the installation a refurbed/crate chevy or GM engine. Engine size is 454. Just some ball park figures..Any help would be great
GB
gonna depend alot on carb? tbi? fuel injected.
payton
i'm getting antifreeze in oil...
that has nothing to do with what i said but ok..
a carb motor will be cheapest normally.
tbi will be more.
and typcialy a fuel injection set up will cost even more.
carb- few vac lines to hook up. carb set up.
tbi more vac lines and some wiring.
fuel injection- vac lines and lots of wiring.

so thats gonna be a deciding factor.
some shops will give you a break if you buy the motor thru them. cause you will pay a few extra dollars for the motor then.
payton

All right, I don't know a whole bunch about trucks unlike most you but I am getting better, so bear with me:p The only problem that I can find on my truck is this mess in the picture. I can replace it fairly easily but I don't know what the part is actually called. There are two of them # 1 is leaking every were and has plastic coming out and # 2 is has a lot of slop in it and is also leaking (badly :D ) Thanks for the help,
- Eric
The truck is a Dodge W150 1993
well i kno number two is the sway arm
That is a steering box. That is most likely what is leaking and it is running down the pitman arm(#2) Replace the steering box and all those leaks will go away. The steering box may a bit exspensive $$$$$.payup
And #1 is the rack and pinion pump. the pump comes with the rack and pinion setup.
the #2 is the idler arm.
A pic is Worth payup hope this helps
You can buy a seal kit for the steering gear (the big nut in front of #1), a rebuild kit for the steering column shaft knuckle (#1), and if there is any play you can replace the draglink assy (#2).
Check this out. While you are at it you might want to put a borgeson steering shaft in there.
http://www.off-road.com/dodge/ramcha...SteerSlop.html
He is right about the seal but if your bearing is worn in that end of the gear you'll eat up a new seal in short order.
rebuilt gearboxes are not too exspensive and are well worth it in the long run.BTW that is a worm gear setup not a rack and pinion unit and the pitman arm is bolted to it.Use auto trans fluid in the gearbox it is better for it than power steering fluid.#2 is the steering shaft and the part you are pointing to allows for telescoping action if a collision has occurred.
Thanks alot guys:D I new you all would know:drinkup:
STREETSURFIN: you are the only one that made since to me,
the borgeson or FLAMINGRIVER steering shaft is the only thing to replace that with it, the last one i bought for a dodge was 'bout 200 bucks and it does away with those ignorent shoes (by the way #1 is called the shoebox) #2 is not even close to he sway arm, it is the pitman arm and the reason it is "leaking" is 'cause it has a grease zerk on top WRIGHT:nod: , and the way to test that would be someone in the truck w/o motor running and jerking the steering wheel back and forth and someone watching it there should be little to no play out of that balljoint,
But it is NOT the sway arm:dizzy:
I think the plastic on the coupler is normal, but check it for play while you are checking the joint on the pitman arm. Those couplers are notorious for wearing and giving play at the steering wheel. One like the Borgeson or Flaming River will outlast a stock replacement.
My god, how many people don't know the mechanics of a vehicle!?!?
The pitman arm (#2) zerk fitting (the nipple on the end) needs to be greased regularly just as any other suspension/steering part- grease seeping out is not necessarily a bad thing. It means contaminants are coming out so that's semi normal when greasing. The PS fluid leak though may be an issue.
And #1 is the rack and pinion pump. the pump comes with the rack and pinion setup. What the hell is a rack and pinion pump?? Isn't that the part next to the muffler bearings?:dizzy:
I just called on a junk yard power steering box for a Ford. It's $50 from a yard that just has trucks (rebuilt $189). If your not going to run the truck forever I would consider this option. If the seal is worn out the steering box can't be far from wore out also. The steering wheel shaft runs $200+ for new. (much better then stock)

i bought my truck in july and i went to crank up my torsion bars and i see a coaxil for a cb antenna hanging down so i go behind the drivers seat take the jack storage cover off and find a 2 strobe box there and i never knew it was there i chased the wires back and found they are haning under the taillights with no bulbs so now my question is where can i get bulbs,they are a 3 pin connector and the power supply box is a fleet industries
any input will help
thanks in advance
matt
i bought my truck in july and i went to crank up my torsion bars and i see a coaxil for a cb antenna hanging down so i go behind the drivers seat take the jack storage cover off and find a 2 strobe box there and i never knew it was there i chased the wires back and found they are haning under the taillights with no bulbs so now my question is where can i get bulbs,they are a 3 pin connector and the power supply box is a fleet industries
any input will help
thanks in advance
matt
princess auto carries strobe bulbs sometimes. If not, there are plenty of online places.
I wish I could get that lucky, but the idea of spending $500 on lights makes me cringe.
they didnt have anything
http://www.strobesnmore.com/
i dont see what i need the power supply i got is a Fleet Industires and the connectors for the strobes are big 3-pin i will try to get pics of it
where in mass. are you. if your near ct. i might know a place were you can get them
im about an 1 1/2 hours away but monday im gonna check a truck supply place and see what they got but i just wanted to see if anyone could help with some info on this
I think that is known as a dutch connector. You should be able to buy the strobe heads anywhere that carries them, no matter who the manufacturer is.
im not sure if this will help you but i know theres a fire supply store, they sell anythin that goes along with fire rescue, its in torrington ct...
try this place
www.fireoutfitters.com
www.lshlights.com is where I got mine. Seemed to be the cheapest. Also try www.strobe-direct.com
Good Day
IF you are near Danvers/North of Boston Area, I can help you out. I have some in stock and may have what you need cheap.
Matt
you want to get hide aways or any light bars warning lights, go to www.galls.com they have alot of police and fire stuff but this is where a lot of municipalities get there equipment for emergency vehicles.
http://www.strobesnmore.com/
they will beat any price gauranteed.its right on the website
If you need any help, give me a call @ 616-403-8185 and I can order and have them shipped to you. The prices start @ about 17.00 a bulb for the strobes.
Mike
thanks alot guys
mike i might be calling you soon
well my local parts store found the bulbs i need and they said they are 45$ a each
now isnt that a little to much
well my local parts store found the bulbs i need and they said they are 45$ a each
now isnt that a little to much
well you tell us...
http://www.fireoutfitters.com/produc...learstrobe.htm
the have both flange and gourmet type fittings you just must choose which one.
I think that is known as a dutch connector. You should be able to buy the strobe heads anywhere that carries them, no matter who the manufacturer is. it's Deutch connector.
$45 per head is about right.
Every manufacturer claims you need to use their heads- always wondered about that. (Galls books mention it with each brand)

One of our Fords has has had a problem every now and then the speedometer would stop working and the overdrive light would flash on and off. It wasn't so bad till just recently where it completely went out and only works shortly every now and then.
I'm guessing its a speed sensor on the transmission or the rear but if you guys have any ideas as to what the problem is and what I need to do to fix it would be great to hear from you.
Thanks,
I had this problem on my truck last year. It was the speed sensor, however, mine quit working all together, and the check engine light was on.
all i know is watch out for a blinking overdrive, its usually and indication of a serrious problem, have a reputable shop or dealer check it out
The overdrive light flashing is an indication that you threw some type of code on the transmission. You need to have the code pulled, to find out what is wrong.
John
Ahhhh finally something I know all about... I have a F350 ( 1999) and the Overdrive light will flash, the speedometer will not work and the Tach may not work... There is a Speed sensor located in the rear-end. It is on the top drivers side of the rearend... It only costs about 10 bucks at NAPA
I fixed mine myself and Im a girl.... LOL.. Its easy.. It is easiest to get to by crawling under the bumper.. Hope this helps someone.
Been there too, Remove the plastic plug (over the rear end)and inspect.
Sometimes its just not making good contact.
You wouldn't believe how much this works on pinball machines.
P.S. on manual trans fords,the truck will run fine with this plug disconnected.
(un plug and put plastic bags over each end and tape them up)
ofcourse you wont have speedo, but guess what, odometer is dead too:nod:
This wont work on automatics,hence the original post
I figured it was something simple like that..Cause if there was a serious problem when the OD light flashes then I wouldn't have gotten so many miles on it towing real heavy gooseneck trailers with it. It started out about when we hit 30-40,000 miles and was only when towing. Then recently (165,000 miles) after some brake and tire work it really went out.
Transmission shop wants $300-500 to fix the speedometer and said they would rebuild the trans for $2700. I don't see a reason to rebuild a trans that drives out fine and doesn't snap, jerk, pop or make loud sounds. But you know how those repair shops are.

One of my guys made the mistake of shifting the trans into 4wd while the truck was moving and in Drive. Now the front end is vibrating when traveling about 25 mph or more, sounds like something is grinding. It is OK when truck is switched out of 4 wd into 2 wd. What could this be? It is a 99 GMC 2500 Sierra. What might it cost?
sounds like it could be a u-joint. lock it in 4wd and get under it and wiggle the front drive shaft. if it wiggles you need a u-joint
Arent you supposed to be able to shift it into 4wd while its in drive? I know on my 93 s-10 you can put it in 4wd when your moving, your allowed to do that. Maybe you just didn't notice the problem before as you didn't drive that fast in 4wd?
you should be able to shift into 4hi while driving. 4lo you can not.
I always stop and put it in nuetral real quick, eventhouth the new truck has electronic 4wd
Gm has had shift on the fly forever. I don't think you could possibly get it into 4 low while moving. I wonder what the guy actually did to damage it...