Can a stuck conveyor chain be removed without destroying it ? Before going for a new one, I'd like to try removing it and soaking in oil.
Can a stuck conveyor chain be removed without destroying it ? Before going for a new one, I'd like to try removing it and soaking in oil. Try to find the connecting link and try to get that apart.If not cut it off and get another link if you get the chain freed up.
***Be careful if you have to get under the spreader to find the link,been more than one guy killed buy his spreader.***
Can a stuck conveyor chain be removed without destroying it ? Before going for a new one, I'd like to try removing it and soaking in oil. Sure back off your slack adjusters and determine if you can afford to lose a link and cut out one if so if not look for the master link with the cotter pin and try to remove it . The easiest and best way though is a hammer and a torch heat up 12'' SECTions till red and beat them and pry up on them flexing the chain this will break the rust free and allow the chain to move then start the machine engage the conveyor and tighten the slacks slowly and evenly till your happy:yow!: :yow!: :yow!:
thanks, the torch did the trick and the chain is unstuck.

hey guys, i'm installing strobes in the headlights tomorrow and was wondering if I just put the switch on the wire that runs from the battery of the truck into the transformer of the strobes?...also the switch has 3 connections. A ground which I will wire into the chassis, a power, and a load. The power is the wire coming off of the battery into the switch, and the load is the wire that runs out of the switch into the transformer right?....thanks in advance
-bryan
That's right and the grounds for the light in the switch.
One thing to remember is to Run a ground directly from the battery to the power supply. IF you dont you'll get interference in your radio.
One thing to remember is to Run a ground directly from the battery to the power supply. IF you dont you'll get interference in your radio. so run the black wire from the negative battery terminal to the negative connection on the strobe power supply?
so i think it should look something like this then
yup that looks good. What kind of truck are you putting these in?
Not sure what manufacture strobes you bought, but here's a whelen wiring diagram. You can get the basic idea http://www.galls.com/DOCUMENTS/GR124...75_UPS64LX.pdf and you can find a bunch more here http://www.galls.com/techsupport.html#wiring may or may not help.
yup that looks good. What kind of truck are you putting these in? I'm not putting them in a plow truck. The strobes are going in my 1997 Nissan Pickup...we use it as an escort vehicle when we move farm equipment on PA Route 162. In the early morning and late evening it can get pretty hairy, so we want maximum visablity when we have a 12 foot haybine in a 10 foot road lane.
With all the complex wiring of the newer trucks it wouldn't be a bad idea to run the ground directly back to the battery. Your ground has to support the incomng current without interfering with the rest of the truck's electrical system.
Bob

I did a search with no results so I am asking in hear. I just had my tranny rebuilt its a E4OD tranny out of a 94 F-150 heavy half ton. The question I have is to any other Ford owners, when plowing I always come to a complete stop before switching to reverse. But when I shift into reverse it still "bangs" into reverse to where it shakes the whole truck 70% of the time the other 30% seem to be very smooth and discrete. Before I had the tranny rebuilt it did the same thing but thats not why the tranny was rebuilt. Is this a "normal condition" or should I look into taking it back. I paid $1600.00 to have it rebiult as a Heavy duty tranny but I don't want it to fail 11 months from now when the warranty is out.
Have you spoken to your rebuilder about the problem?
have you looked at your motor mounts and trans mounts and all u joints.
But i bet it could be a bad mount and the motor is jumping when you shift the truck.
That's a good suggestion to look at the other components in the drivetrain.
check, the rear diff, u joints, tail shaft, and stub shaft, also might wanna look into the motor/ trans mounts, id never thought of that, good luck, my old truck did it to, and boy was it ever annoying
There are quite a few things that can cause you symptoms. I would take it back after checking the fluid level, so it is covered under warranty. I would not be surprised if something was missed in the rebuild. The cost you said you paid was a very low dollar rebuild for a E4OD.
Low fluid level
Electronic engine control operation
As was said, worn or loose u-joints, yoke, axles, or suspension
Loose valve body bolts
Engagement control valve stuck or damaged
CB13 check valve missing
Direct clutch accumulator, and regulator valves
Forward clutch assembly damaged seals, or clutch material
Reverse clutch leakage
Excessive trans end play

i was wondering if anyone has a custom back rack. i'm going to build one so i can mount my rotator and some work lamps on it but i just was looking for some ideas, type of tubing, where to mount, etc.
Mike
Why not just buy a new one designed for your truck?They are only like $225.They are powder coated and made for each truck so you have the best visibility out your back window.And with there mounting system you don't have to drill into your truck bed.Just my 2cents
I bought a "Maine Truck Rack" from Katahdin Welding up here in Maine. I think they sell them down in your neck of the woods and they are great. However, you said you wanted to make your own and I can certainly respect that so... http://www.mainetruckracks.com for some ideas!
I made one last year cost me abour 20 bucks and a few hours playing around in the shop.
I used 1" square tubing and 1/2 round tubing in the middle section.
I'll try to post a pic of it after the snow.
i made one last year out of 1 X 3 square tubing almost looks like half of a roll bar ... but it attaches to my bed rail protectors which are made of angles iron ... but with the price of steel your better of just buying one ...
i was wondering if anyone has a custom back rack. i'm going to build one so i can mount my rotator and some work lamps on it but i just was looking for some ideas, type of tubing, where to mount, etc.
Mike do a search for "the big white plow" to see pics of mine