best way to install a polly plow skin kit?;Meyer E47 not working;Weld Diesel fuel tank????;Home made Back Rack;how to wire up headlights for 75 chevy
best way to install a polly plow skin kit?
i just got a deal on a s.a.m. polly plow skin kit. and am ready to install it. well the directions are close to perfect. but it dosnt say anything about what side to put out to the snow and what side to the plow skin.
there is a super smooth side and a slightly textured side.
am i correct in the super smooth side is for the snow. and the slight texture side is for the plow skin side. ?
and any other hints / tips / or things i should know about the install would be great.
Textured side to plow.... helps the adhesive stick to the poly sheet.
Make sure the plow and poly sheet are clean and relatively warm. (the warmer the better)
Meyer E47 not working
Stupid question but does anyone know witch direction the Meyer E47 motor turns is it cw or ccw. Also the real problem is it will not raise or angle it worked this summer when i bought the truck and just quit. All i have done was clean the ground wire and that is when i noticed the previous owner had the pump wired backwards the + went to the body and - went to the motor. the motor turns but nothing else seems to work. thanks in advance Matt
If your looking straight down on it while it's on the pump, it turn's clockwise..
If it still has an original Meyer gear pump on it, it will have an arrow cast into the pump body near the motor mounting flange showing the direction of rotation.
Weld Diesel fuel tank????
Just priced out a new tank and sending unit for my 3500hd and fell over. Over 500.00 for t he pair. The tank has been dripping for the last month and getting worse. The top of the tank is in nice shape although the sending unit seems allitle soft. So here is my thinking, drop the tank and see how bad it is. If the area is small like where a strap sits, weld it up using the torches. What do you think??
Even though its diesel there is still a chace of fire.
I have had some luck in the past useing JB weld,clean the surface,rough it up a bit ,apply and then sit for 24 hours.
Trying to braze it with the torch may just burn more holes if the tank has alot of rust and is getting thin.
How much was the new tank?
reread the post $500 for the pair
Put dry-ice in the tank. The dry-ice (co2) will displace the air in the tank and then it will be safe to weld.
I just looked up a fuel tank on rockauto.com for a 1999 didn't know your year of truck and the most expensive one was 159 plus shipping. At worst that would be like 150 so 310 thats not bad at all and it beats rigging it for now
I just looked up a fuel tank on rockauto.com for a 1999 didn't know your year of truck and the most expensive one was 159 plus shipping. At worst that would be like 150 so 310 thats not bad at all and it beats rigging it for now He's in Canada so it's prolly twice as muchpayup
they have a shipping calculator it there might still be worth investigating just for fun
put dawn soap in it then use a power washer with hot water for a couple hrs than good to go weld it up i do it all day long i work for a weld shop in buffalo NY or just buy a new one
We have welded tanks before and have found that it's not long before it starts leaking somewhere else after the first fix. I have never personally done it, but our welder did it in our shop. He put a hose off the exhaust of our gas pickup into the tank and then he welded it. He has also welded gas tanks this way, so he said. Buy 1 new tank or are both leaking.
Ok so I have thought about it, I hate to patch things up be to spend excessive coin on a tank is crazzy. Perhaps I can find a tank and make it fit. What about a tank from a reffer, or something else. Maybe I should just spend the money and get it over. Knowing my luck I'd pull the tank only to find it is swiss cheese at the bottom.
The more I think about it a Generic tank is sounding good. I can run the equipment from that tank and be able to wash for weeks without having to fill up. For the power washer on the mini water truck is diesel too. I'm sure making the fuel guage work shouldn't be too hard. Plus the truck has a flat deck
Thanks for all your input
Take the straps loose on the tank and you will find / cause more leaks.
Tried an experiment on the tank. Was talking to a guy who hauls scrap for a living in a rusted out Chev pick up. He had a gas leak which he repaired last year with a sheet of paper and some Stop Leak glue (fuel and oil resistant). He said drop the tank and give it a try. After removing the plastic shild and droping the tank the bottom looked pritty bad. Tried this quick fix anyways.
Clean the area off and determine the leaky section. Using a wire wheel clean off the section super good untill the steel is clean and free of debris. Spray with brake clean. Apply the goop all over the area of the leak. Apply a generous amount to a sheet of paper and spread out evenly. The sheet of paper should be about the same size a the patch area on the tank. Let the glue set up for 2-3 min and apply the paper over the area on the tank. Let this set up for 20 min and appy another coat over the outside of the paper to seal it. Paint the entire area with a left over spray bomb. Re install.
Been a couple of days and all is good no leak!! Yes in time I know the tank will have to come out and repaired properly. But at this time we are inbetween seasons and it might never snow. Just trying to save a little cash, much rather spand the extra 500.00 for the tank and sending unit on the kids for Christmas!!!
If you want to cheat give this method a try.
Keep us posted on how long this repair holds for. Sounds crazy enough to work for a year or so :dizzy:
i would not try to weld it unless your real good at thin Gage welding ,my old man has had very good luck cleaning them up real good and using a large soldering iron ( one that you have to use a blow torch on ) use some tins titer solder prep on the joint after you clean the steel ,then go to town . of course my old man is from a different era (he used to solder car body joints ) they did not have bondo, and you fixed it not replaced it because it was easer .
of course my old man is from a different era (he used to solder car body joints ) they did not have bondo, and you fixed it not replaced it because it was easer . Yes somtimes I think of the impact of the throw away society of today. For example the average cell phone has a life span of the max 5 years. Thats if we don't break it!! Back in the days of the rotary phones how long would one keep a phone. As technology gets better the life span of electronic device decreases. Just think of each phone eventually goes to the dump, multifly over time and population. Man that number is scarry!!!! Talking about crazy numbers what about AA batteries in the dump. Now if I could just think of something to do with these and make a .0001cent profit on each on I'd be rich.:D
Man I need some snow my brain is going overdrive!!!:help:
Home made Back Rack
I don't like the Back Rack I have on my truck. I just does not protect the edge of the cab and there is no flat area on the top to install flashing lights etc. So I built my own from scratch.
I need to know if I should add the flat bar stock to the middle?
I thought about adding one piece centered in the middle section? But maybe doing nothing and leaving it open as is. It's for protection and I don't haul allot of things that would hit the center part of the window. Plus since this truck is a 6.5 bed there are time when I might need to open the rear window and slide 12' 14' 16' etc lumber into the cab. So, what should I do?
1) Do nothing, Leave it as is.
2) Install 1 piece centered in the middle
3) Install 2 more pieces and fill out the middle
Thanks, and I hope everyone had a safe and Happy Thanksgiving.
id say leave it open if u ever break the window dont come looking for me thou. if u didnt have a back slider then i would cover it. but since u do make full use of it. and by the way thats a nice bar
id say leave it open if u ever break the window dont come looking for me thou. if u didnt have a back slider then i would cover it. but since u do make full use of it. and by the way thats a nice bar Thanks, I'll post more pictures after I have it cleaned up and primed and painted and all the lights on it. I kind of like it open too, another option would be to make something removable to go in the middle.
Looks like a good clean fabrication -- nice job! I agree about leaving the center open -- most of your protection will come from the rest of it anyway.
Looks like a good clean fabrication -- nice job! I agree about leaving the center open -- most of your protection will come from the rest of it anyway. I think I will leave it open, plus if it does get broken, it's only the slider and not the main window.
I think I will leave it open, plus if it does get broken, it's only the slider and not the main window. Not really. You still have to get the whole thing replaced. Found that out the hard way.
Looks good. I would put one bar in the middle. nice job...
I think if I were building one and had a slider, I would want to have a removable section for the center. Not so much for loads but to make it harder to be broken into. The pins, or whatever hardware was used to hold it in place, could be set up so they had to be removed from inside the cab.
Nice custom fab on the rack. I had the same problem with my GMC 5500. The standard backpack (brand) wasen't nearly big enough. It just barely covered the rear window. My local metal shop (Jim's welding - Danbury, CT) ws able to build a rack that fit. They based it on the "backrack" design. Now that I've got the 5500 - I'm finding out that stuff like this has to be custom made. Starts getting pricy - quick. BUT, the rack looks good and fits the truck. I guess you want to play......ya gotta pay :salute:
Looks good!!...how much did you spend on making that ...money wise?
Looks good!!...how much did you spend on making that ...money wise? I spent about $100 on the steel and may another $25 on paint, etc.
I got the new rack installed on the truck tonight, just in time for the snow storm coming this weekend (pictures of it on the truck tomorrow - to dark outside) :crying:
pictures of tabs on the top tube for the new 55w rear facing flood lights. A 1" access hole was drilled in the top so the lights can be bolted down and wires run inside of the tube. The hole will be filled with a plastic plug and painted.
Also in the 3nd & 4th pic you see the mounting plate for the LED Stop/Turn Lights
Picture of the New LED Stop/Turn light. This light has a hi/lo wire and works great as stop/turn.
3rd pic is the wire access holes drilled on the under side of the top tube (rack is upside down in this pic) so the wires can be fished out and run down the side tubes. Also, this access hole is on the front side facing the cab and can not be seen from the back. The holes again will be filled with a plastic plug and painted.
Wires inside the top tub can be accessed via both ends on the top tub. On the top tub ends, I cut a plate and welded angle iron inside of the tube to screed the plate to. To hide the screws, I add a sealed marker light (more lights is all ways good) on both sides.
Again I had to drill a few access hole so the wires for the 3 center marker lights could be wired up (rack is upside down in the first pic)
The next pic is of the 1" hole filled with a plastic plug and last pic is the marker lights on.
Now all I need is for the new Whelen Responder LP (R2LPPA) Super LED Mini Lightbar and two Whelen 500 Series LIN6's Super-LED lightheads to show up. The LIN6's will go the the front of the top tube and I will have to weld some type of plate on the center part of the top tube to bolt the lightbar to the rack.
Wow. That turned out so nice. Looks like you've built some things before.
I wanted to get some ideas on custom building one myself, and a search lead me here.
On the outer uprights, is that a one piece square tube bent or is that 2 welded together. Also any more pics of it installed?
now thats a classy man looks better then what you can buy in the aftermarket !:nod:
That looks Great!!!!...how much do you want so you can make me one?:rolleyes::D:D
how to wire up headlights for 75 chevy
I have a 75 chevy truck and just got a used western plow for it. The turn signals I got wired up but what is the best way to wire up the headlights? They have the ground which attaches to the bezel and then theres 2 wires that come out for the light. I would like to run a switch which I could turn on to cut out the main headlights and run the plow headlights. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks, Kevin
The easiest way is to get a 6 terminal switch/ 2 postion. Find the high beam and low beam wires in the loom on the drivers side fender, cut both wires and extend them back into the cab, these 2 wires will go on the center terminals on the back of the switch (one side of the switch will now be for high beam and the other will be for low beam). Take 2 wires from the bottom terminals on the switch and run them back to the 2 wires you cut that go to the truck lights (keeping low on one side and high on the other still). From the other two terminals run them out to the plow lights for you high and low. Now when you turn the truck lights on, depending where you have the switch positioned you will either be on the truck lights or the plow lights.
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