I see two ports right off the compressor how do I know which one is the low side? Thanks for the help.
A repair manual should tell you which side is the low side. I f you don't have one, try the library. I looked at my manuals and they don't say how to figure out which line is the low side. It's been a while since I had to charge a system.
The larger of the two lines is the lowside.

i read alot of guys add "timbrens" to the front ends. i have a heavy fisher speecast G on my 88 jeep grand wagoneer. although i put new leaf springs in. would these be helpful to me? it does sag some and i figure will more in the future.. school me in on them. and do they have a kit that works on full size jeeps? thanks JIm
They have worked well on my 96 S10 Blazer with a 6'6" Western. I cranked up my torsion bars to get level and the Timbrens were more to help out while traveling and prevent bounce and bottoming out the front. They have a kit here for your Jeep http://www.truckspring.com/timbren/i...ions/jfj10.pdf
Check out timbren's website for all the information you need...
http://www.timbren.com/
Nice rig to plow with. You will find that the Timbrens will make the ride a little harsher without the plow on it.

any One Know? how many Quarts of OIl while doing an OIL & Filter Change on a 7.3 ??--& what Brand OIL ? Ijust had Mine Changed at a Quick Lube operated by a Freind--PAID the BILL & never Asked?--another GUY asked ME? as His is DUE!--I have ROTELLA"T" 15-40 in Mine--which I have Seen! at WAL-MART! Thanks! --Ole Tower--
Ole Tower
Your 7.3 takes 15 quarts of oil.
A lot of guys on the FTE forums like Rotella 15W40 in their trucks, but some do switch to 5W40 in the winter. The other favorite over there is Chevron Delo 15W40.
Hope this helps.
Ole Tower
Your 7.3 takes 15 quarts of oil.
A lot of guys on the FTE forums like Rotella 15W40 in their trucks, but some do switch to 5W40 in the winter. The other favorite over there is Chevron Delo 15W40.
Hope this helps. THANKS CHRIS appricate IT!--Ole Tower--
Our mechanics at work write the number of quarts each engine takes right on the core support. I do that too because nothing takes the same amount anymore.I noticed different year powerstrokes take different amounts.Make sure you read the dip stick, add is 2 quarts.
I guess I*LL solve the Brand? Oil problem by Useing the Same Brand OIL in every thing! & keep Adding until it reads FULL!--THANKS!--OleTower--
Are You Guys SURE? You have to Re-Move the Engine? to Change Oil Pans?--I bought an Olds Toranrado yrs Ago-W/a Bad Fex Plate--called the Olds Dealer--was Told its an 8 hourJOB?--jacked It UP & looked it Over?--Removed all the Bell Housing Bolts & spred it Open a Bit-- looked in there w/a flash Light--spred it open a Bit More! & holed It Open w/a couple of Wood Blocks--& removed the Ole ONE & installed the New One in about an Hour?--so I figured the Olds Dealer was a Crook?-as If I could Do It--any One Could!--Now on the 7.3? I should Think?It could be Lifted--& by Turning the Crank so the Crank Shaft Weights Fall Away enough to Clear? anything? Hiting & Jamming the Pan?--It Should Come Free & be Outa There?--& Once the Pans OFF--Don*t Touch Any thing--Simply Install the New One!--& Your DONE!--as having to Pull the Entire Engine sounds WRONG to ME??--even Cutting a Piece out of the Cross member? wouldn*t take all Day! --to Remove & Re-Place--so whats the Big Problem?? as I have looked at my 96 & the Oil pans OK! but I know I could Change It it It needed IT? w/Out removing the Entire Engine!--as I have Stated! I Dono? but I assume? some Ones Taking You for a Big Bucks!-- RIDE!--Ole Tower--
I have had to do 3 of these oil pans in 2003 or so ford f350's with 7.3 turbo diesels, I tried very hard on the 1st one to avoid pulling the motor and failed miserably, didn't bother trying on the next 2, depending on options the flat rate time is roughly 13 hours, now you mention cutting the crossmember and a friend of mine did give a shop permission to cut his and weld it back together to save him a few bucks, but that is a very heavy duty and structural piece and no reputable shop is going to suggest that
remember on your service fuel filter every 10k - 15k depending on where get your fuel from .
i use napa filter and motorcraft oil from advance like 9buxs for 5 quarts jug . shell is also recommended by navistar/international .
the reason behind removing the engine is because of 2 fold .
1 is the pan needs silicone gasket for it . and recommend to dry over night and use ford gray . because of oil foaming cause by other siliconed.
2 . the oil pick up is dangerous close to pan and known to crack off if done in vehicle.
i would never cut the cross member as stated above you just asking for trouble . some guys pull the trans and rig the engine on a picker high enough to clear to not pull the engine . .
In Canada, 7.3 takes 14.1 litres of oil. 15w40
Mine takes 15... buy a case, keep the extra quart to top it off:D
thats true thos HPOP tend to leak some on some trucks
hey i know your olders pree 99 powersmokers prolly have a good number of miles now but
a service bullitin from a few years back say use 10-30 instead of the 15 40 in these powerstrokes
fixes the loapie idle by letting the oil pressurized injectors fire easier at lower rpm
me i dont care about a little idle vibration but thought id pass along the info
I run 5w40 rotella synthetic year round with no problems By the way there are 12 quarts of oil in a case .
By the way there are 12 quarts of oil in a case . Not a case of 15-40, they are 6 gallons to a case.

Well, last night we(buddy and I) swapped out the rear end in my truck (stock, open diff 3.83 gears) for an axle from his 1996 k2500 (locker, 4.11 gears). Plowing this past season with open diff and that gear ratio SUCKED, so, that's why we are doing this! The front end will be done in the next couple of weeks so i can use my 4*4 again. I will get pics once it stops raining, But i cleaned up the whole axle up, repainted it jet black and got a chrome diff. cover for it. This thing is gonna last a long time. When we opened up the drums, they were in AWESOME condition. I have yet to take a real drive with it as we finished at 12:15 in the morning, so i just drove it home and fell asleep!!
Overall, I think i'm going to be VERY happy with the increased power and traction in the rear end......only down side is the lower gas mileage, but, my customers pay for the gas
It's great that you have a buddy that knows how to do the swap. Shops want a pretty penny to do gear or axle swaps.
are you switching in a solid front axle or are you sticking with the IFS???
are you switching in a solid front axle or are you sticking with the IFS??? keeping IFS, front will not be locker because of this...................however, that would be SWEEEETTT
i know that really would be sweet to have a solid front axle chevy. that is the only reason i didnt buy a chevy is the ifs otherwise i think they are damn near bulletproof.
Some pics for ya's Only thing not cleaned up and painted is the bottom U-bolt bracket. Pretty much all hardware on the thing is new.....SWEEET!
Diff cover hasn't been cleaned yet :(
That looks like a 9.5 inch "metric" semi-floater 14 bolt. Maybe it is actually the 10.5 full floater? If it's the 9.5 inch version I'm a little curious what locker is in it. There is nothing cheap about 9.5's
That looks like a 9.5 inch "metric" semi-floater 14 bolt. Maybe it is actually the 10.5 full floater? If it's the 9.5 inch version I'm a little curious what locker is in it. There is nothing cheap about 9.5's The rear in MCW's pic is in fact the 9.5 semi floater 14 bolt. If I remember correctly he said it has a factory Gov-Loc in it.
I think a Gov-Lok would probably be ok in that application. The same can be said for the 9.5 inch 14 bolt. I've seen some guys build the **** out of a 9.5 inch, but it isn't cheap. I didn't know the Gov-Lok was an option for the 9.5 even, not that it surprises me in the least that it was. It's probably a better option for something on the street than a full Detroit.
I think a Gov-Lok would probably be ok in that application. The same can be said for the 9.5 inch 14 bolt. I've seen some guys build the **** out of a 9.5 inch, but it isn't cheap. I didn't know the Gov-Lok was an option for the 9.5 even, not that it surprises me in the least that it was. It's probably a better option for something on the street than a full Detroit. Yep, the Gov-loc's were an option on the 9.5 14 bolt. In fact, you could get one in just about any GM rear all the way back to the '80 model year whether it was an 8.5 or 8.6 10 bolt, 8 7/8 12 bolt or a 9.5 or 10.5 14 bolt. They work fine in a relatively stock truck with not too much tire but in a high horsepower application or with large tires they're a hand grenade with the pin pulled. That's how they got the nickname "Gov-Bomb".