Looking for some direction for my '03 Silverado 2500HD (Ext. Cab / 6L v8 / short box).
I'm having the Boss 8'2" V-Plow installed in then next couple days. The dealer says they have a standard practice of cranking up the tortion bars 5 turns for installation of this plow on this truck.
What do you all think of this? What is the better option, doing this - or using the Timbrens on the front?
This is my 1st plow, and this is my only means of transportation. I plan to drive w/o the plow the majority of the time --- and to only hook it up as needed (but in Buffalo, that could be from this weekend --- until mid March!).
Thanks!
I had sag on my F250 HD with a V plow. I added Monroe Muscle LSE's (front only) which are similar to the Timbrens. I'd use LSE's or Timbrens rather than messing with the torsion bars, but that is just me. I don't have time to have each vehicle adjusted 2X per year and don't care to mess with doing it myself.
Just an hour or so ago, I saw a semi that was setup to haul oversize (I would guess overweight, too) loads. I had never seen anything quite like it. It had huge air or hydraulic (probably air) suspension units that looked quite similar to the Lse's or Timbrens, if that tells you anything.
I have yet to hear of anyone using either product and then saying they regret their decision? I'd spend the money for the Timbrens next time because I have heard they are a little bit better, but the LSE's have yet to let me down. The Lse's are available at NAPA for about half the price of Timbrens.
i just bought the timbrens from awdirect.
i have a 1/2 ton silverado z71 with a western ultramount pro ploy on it....it sags alot (in my opinion) i was told by a mechanic friend to just crank the torsion bars up, and i would get max 2 inches lift, but i would have to get a front end alignment....i went with the timbrens because i would rather not max out my torsion bars...i guess you could put heavyer bars or crank the originals up, but to me when a spring is at its max thats when it weakens and breaks....with the timbrens i am hoping that i won't need to adjust the torsion bars at all, but if i do i probably will only have to crank them alittle...
just a warning, if you decide to get timbrens and order from awdirect, call in your order, great company, i got them in like 2 days, but there inventory numbers on the website are messed up and they sent me the wrong ones.... :(
the great thing about the timbrens (supposedly) is that your suspension is normal under no load conditions and stiffer when you need it (with the plow)
if you wait a few days i'll tell ya how my truck reacted, but i'm sure you'll get a response on here before then....
racer,what year chevy do you have, ijust ordered the timbrens for a 98' chevy from AW a couple hours ago off the internet!Anyways i also have them on my 99'(old body style) and turned up the torsion bars 1.5 turns,they work great well worth the money and the truck handles better going down the road.
Welcome to here... 01 2500HD here, Western V. I crank the torsion bars up about 6 turns & it helps a LOT, After the plowing season I crank them back down for better ride quality. Extremely simple to do. If ya crank them any further you sould get an alignment done.
Where in the Buffalo area are ya from? Clarence/Amherst here.
Firesource, I have a 02 2500hd ext.cab long box (8.1L/Allison) with a 9'3" Sno-way Lobo (vee plow) and i turned my bars up 4 turns. I can really notice the difference in the ride, but i like the way it levels out the truck. The truck still drops about 1 1/2 to 2 " when i put the plow on, so i am still thinking about adding the timbren's to try and keep the truck more level with the blade on. As far as tire wear goes, i put new tires on in oct.,with the torsion bar adjustment and have seen no uneven wear on the tires, about 5000 miles ago. So i guess it's up to personal preference.
Oh yeah forgot, No extra noticible wear on the tires w/ 1/2 the year cranked up. 2 new tires (rear) in spring for me.
Guys -
Thanks for the info. I'm in the Clarence area. Having the plow put on at General Welding in Elma. They say their standard practice is cranking up 5 turns.
This is my 1st plow and I want to do it right. I checked with the dealer and they confirmed a 5 turn crank will not affect the warranty --- however they could not speak to the effect an aftermarket item like Timbrens will have.
Any other help is appreciated!
Unfortunately, looks like some lake effect is in the forecast for Saturday -- and my plow does not go on until Wed.:(
Thanks!
arc...i would call if i were you and confirm...(get the actual Part # for your truck from timbren.com and then call awdirect and ask them to cross-reference....i do however think you are safe because my uncle has a 98 gmc and i was going to order for him too and i didn't....after they fixed my order i asked about that part # and i think it's right....check to be sure though....
Went you go to adjust your torsion bars it's easier to do if you jack your truck up by the plow frame removing some of the preload off the the bars. I also order the higher capacity rubber springs from Timbren when I installing a V-blade. The heavier ones will add another 500 lbs of support. Just thought I'd pass that info along.:rolleyes: John
Here's a question for the "Torsion-Bar" crowd; What kind of tool do you use to get any turns on a torsion bar? I tried to do it with a wrench on an S10 Blazer, and no go.;)
TRUP..... i used a 1/2" drive breakerbar
My two cents....
I have a 2000 GMC Siera 2500, I turned up the bars and leveled the truck and it looks nice. I had to turn them up to get the plow height for my Boss 8'2. I used a 1/2 " breaker bar also.
However, Had to go a bit higher than specs due to sag unless I wanted to bottom out all the time. Boss calls for 15.5 I'm at 16 1/4 with out plow. Then it sags a couple inches and I scrape the blade all the time. :rolleyes:
I leave them up all year but notice it gets squirly in the front end at higher speed. (They are all the way up if anyone was wondering)
Thats too high for decent handling. :nono:
Definately get the Timbrens. I will get them soon as I have money and time all at the same time, then I will lower the torsion bars to 15.5 and hopefully be able to go up and incline with out scraping the plow.
TRUP,
Are you trying to turn the adjusting bolt or the torsion bar itself? No way you're going to wind the bar itself.
Yeah, shouldn't be turning that hard unless the bolt's frozen or something. I was under there with a 1/4" drive and the front end NOT lifted, and I was turning it. Of course I'm gonna lift the front end and mark the socket to do it right and make sure I get the turns the same, but I was my exploratory turns with a wussy little toy tool went fine.
My guess is your S-10 has a lock jam nut on the bolt. ;) You know a nut on the bolt first to keep the bolt in place. Many older Chevys had them, my 94-4x4 Ext cab did & my 2000- 4x4 Tahoe does but not my 2001- 2500HD4x4. :waving:
Just back off the nut first then tighten the bolt & then tighten the nut back up.:waving:

I've been noticing there haven't been too many posts in the past few days maybe thats a good sign and shows the chevys really are like a rock.
no every body is too busy bringing them to the shop to get fixed like me.
too busy out looking at new fords.
Cat320, that was an awful thing to say. :D Mike :waving:
Hehe, mine 84 K-10 is actaully in the in shop now needs an alignment and passernger side rear cab mount.
well i'm on my 3rd injection pump now plus the brakes stop so wonderful on this truck NOT ,i'm with paul looking at new fords
Hey, i dont blame you. Just pullin your leg a little. You know how i feel about 03s anyway, so if your in the market for a new truck anyhow, i dont blame you for checking out the F250-F350s. My personal favorite is a regular cab F350 with the high suspension, X springs, and the chrome wheels with the little circle cut outs and black wall tires, not white lettered tires on the F350, just my preference. Ok so i told you what i liked, now go get it for me, hahaha. Mike :D
Funny Mike you just described the truck i like And most definatly black walls.
Good minds think alike, or something like that. :drinkup: Mike
Picking up another new Chevy Friday.
Broke the drivers side door handle on my 98 last week, still covered by warranty. The white metal broke in a v shape around the lock area. To much torque from lifting the handle, and pulling the door open. Other than that the truck has been pretty good lately. had new tires installed for the winter, and when they went to aligne, found the lower ball joints were bad. So I had the dealer install new ones, and the alignment is included with that service. Had the truck serviced by my local mech. for the winter, fluids belts and the like.
I have to say that even with the 6.5 I have had few problems with the truck no more so than my friends fords or dodges.
I have 70K on it now, and I have done the front brakes 2x, right now they are 50%, and the rear I just had done at 68K. Rotors are fine and have never been turned. It is a beast in the snow, the G-80 locker works great, even on muddy work sites, I hardly need 4wd.
My 89 K-30 with the 454 is also a monster, that truck owes me nothing. The 84 K-20 I have also is great. 110K plowing miles and still going strong.
I still think chevies are the best, the 03's are just plain ugly tho. And all makes are way over priced these days.
Dino
Being an employee of FoMoCo, I'm pleased to see some interest in our Kentucky-made products. I can't afford to purchase a new Ford, but luckily some of you can. I stick with jalopies like my K20. That way, theres no disappointment when I find that my limited-slip diff is actually an all-slip diff. Or when my V10 blows-up just after the warranty expires. Or when at approximately 70k miles, the clutch goes in all of my manual tranny Ford's.
Have fun shopping.
Very slow on the Dodge site also.
Give me one or two more days, thats when I start working on my trucks again. I had to take a break after all the problems I had with my Suburban and Sierra. Maybe the Jimmys will not need much work.
CGB:D
Originally posted by TrailK10
Hehe, mine 84 K-10 is actaully in the in shop now needs an alignment and passernger side rear cab mount. There, see? The drouight is all your fault. You should have come on here and asked about alignments and cab mounts before you took it in, and we could have all told you to take it in to your local shop. :D
Hehe Good point.

I own a 1999 chevy 3500
i would like to add back up lights 35 watts with switch and a relay.
i found some info on here which is very usefull but not very detailed.
1. what size relay do i need. (amperage)
2. the color of the wire under the dash for the backup lights.
thank you in advance.
For a relay I sue the ones that are available at the parts stores for wiring auxiliary driving lights. Around here they are labeled "Night Blaster". I'm thinking they are rated for around 30 amps, which is way overkill. Tose 35 watt lamps need a bit over 6 amps, so allowing for inefficiency and wire drop, I would thinkt aht a 10 amp relay would work and 15 would be plenty to give a safety factor.
As for wire color you're on your own. On our 97 the backup light switch seems to be transmission mounted, we haven't been able to locate any wire near the steering column (where they used to be switched) that is hot when the reverse lights are on. Best I can offer is to start tracing with a test light until you find the one and only.
IF they are going to be mounted on the rear of the truck, then why couldnt you either 1) plug it into the trailer connector, or 2) splice into the harness back under the lights. I wired in a backup alarm and just used those crimp splicers and a lot of tape... just a suggestion.
The stock backup light switch is designed to handle the current draw of two 1156 or equivalant bulbs. I did my original setup by going through the stock switch and am firmly convinced that was what fried it. The current needed to activate a relay is miniscule, the wiring isn't much more difficult, so now I go with relay switching on all installs.
GUY....I believe GMs with plow prep pkg. have heavy duty
wiring and relay from factory.
I have the GM #27 bulletin:
Backup lamp power feed is a standard feature on all new
Gm trucks it is protected bya 10 amp fuse TRLRb?
For full bulletin and info:
https://www.gmupfitter.com/secure/ht...ull/bull27.pdf
thanks for your input
my truck is a 1999
does it also have the heavy duty
wiring and relay from factory.
with the 10 amp fuse.
or is it the 2000 and newer ?
thanks again.

Hi, I am going to get 35"x12.5" R-16 Tires. My question is the backspacing on the rims(16"x8") is 4". I was wondering if that will work on an 74' k20 frame with an 85' body? Thanks
unless you have a lift of somekind the tires will/might rub the frame a little
Forgot to mention, a 3" frame and 3" body lift. Thanks, Alex
you should be good to go then, the 35's wil fill the wheel wells nicely