I have just put on 285's on my 2500hd GMC, with a load range of D. On the inside of the door GMC says ride with a load range of e. I tow a trailer with grass equipment and have a fisher snowplow on in the winter. Will i have a problem with this?
Next to the max psi rating on the side wall is the
max load in lbs or K what is the number?
Some D's can carry as much as a lot of E's can.
I run D's on one truck and E's on the other.(both 2500
it really depends on the MFG.
If you carried a lot of heavy loads the were close to your max weight for a long distance then maybe e's would be better.
But you are towing you load so I don't see a problem with it.
I see you were wrong I did see this post again.
I still think there is a better spot for it, lol
Relax it was a joke....
cooper mud&snows
If you change from a stock tire, you can no longer follow what the door label says. I'm almost sure that a 285D has the same rating as the stock 245E. To be sure, look on the new tire and see what the max load is at the given pressure. It should be somewhere around 3200lb at 65psi.
hey thanks guys, i feel alot better now. Yeah the weight limit on the tire is 3200, and on the old tire it was 2600 or somthing like that. So i should be alright. Thanks for all ur help everyone, i love how if im in a jam i can find my answer on here. Snofarmer sorry if i got a little upset, i was just having a bad day, my father thought the tires would give me problems and we got into a verbal fight over it.

Don't really want to part with the old girl, but all this talk about how much older trucks are selling for has piqued my interest. I checked NADA and it says $9000 and up. But none of those sites ever reflect true market value. KBB is all over the place, as is Edmunds. I rarely see trucks like mine around here for sale, so not much to compare it to.

If I keep this truck I want to throw some money at it, it's getting rough around the edges, and I've had some issues with the tranny that I think are resolved. It's depressing to think how much it's going to cost to do the body and paint to make it look new again. And it's getting up there in miles, should last a lot longer but it is getting to the nickel and dime age. Going to need to do exhaust again, balljoints can't last forever can they? They haven't been done yet with 157k on it.
The one and only thing I don't like about the truck I have is the extended cab with no third door. I really wanted a crew cab, but I couldn't find one back in 01 when I bought this. So, I just found a 99 that is virtually identical to mine, only difference is it's a crew cab, 2 years newer and only 82k miles on it. So my plow and sander setup would fit perfectly, or if I sold my truck with the plow, I'd have to buy a new 810 for it. Would depend what they'd give me for the plow I guess. I'd rather keep my old 810, it works as good as a brand new one.
Only downfall I can see is it would only make plowing driveways a little bit harder. Hard enough now with the extended cab. I don';t know how much longer the 4 door is, but it looks a lot longer. And I'd have a payment again, for almost the same truck.
I'd like to hear any input, just to see what you guys think. I was feeling like I'd be lucky to get 5k for my truck, but I always tend to lowball myself. I traded a lifted 81 with a plow for mine, they gave me $2500 and the next day had it advertised for $5995.
Any pictures of your truck?
I tried twice to load a couple, but it didn't work. I only have a couple crappy pics of when I was plowing at night. I'll try it again to see if it works, but not much of a pic. I'll have to take some new pics tomorrow in the daylight.
It says I can't because I've already loaded them once in the test forum. And I can't cut and paste them from there to here.
There is a 95-96 reg cab 3500 Chevy dually here with a 454, 124k miles, auto, 4x4, and a nice body with a Fisher 8 foot HD plow for 4800 bucks. But it is really dependent on your market. I bet though that you could get between 8 and 10 for it. But I could be wrong. If you cant get the pics to work, email them to me tom@sydenstrickerlawns.com and I can get them loaded up for you
Test thread with pictures:

Looks good from what I can see with the blurryness.
here's some pics of the 99 I like-it's virtually identical to the one I already have, but mine is an extended cab with stainless simulators and a few scrapes and dings. They're asking $13995 for it, this place is pretty high priced, so I'd hope they would have some room to move on the price.
Truck looks nice but I would hate doing driveways with something that big. My aunt and uncle have a cc/lb dually 2wd with the 454 for thier buisness and I've driven it a little and can't imagine doing driveways at night with a truck that size.
Truck prices are high here in my neck of the woods as they're a very hot commodity..your '97 would be $10-$12000 easy around here..and the '99 your lookin' at would be at least $17000! A guy here just bought a '97 K1500 ex cab 4X4 with 115,000 mi and had to pay $9,500 to get it. Not cheap...
A guy here just bought a '97 K1500 ex cab 4X4 with 115,000 mi and had to pay $9,500 to get it. Not cheap... Holy cow, I paid a tad over $6k for my 98 with 128k.
Holy cow, I paid a tad over $6k for my 98 with 128k. Yep, that shows how the truck market is around here..you don't get any deals as the private sellers and the dealer know that if you don't buy it, someone else will.:realmad:
Here's a couple qucik shots I took of my truck just now, its dirty and raining, but you get the idea. Pretty sharp looking truck if you don't look too close.
So, I went and looked at the 99 yesterday. Didn't get to drive it, had the boy with me and he was sleeping in the carseat. But Icrawled around under it and it looks really nice. It had a pretty poor re-paint at some point, but looks okay from twenty feet. Nice rims and 6 new tires, (that's about a grand that I need to spend on my old truck before plowing season). No rust or damage, interior is mint, very clean underneath except for a little oil pushing out the front of the motor somewhere.
I am seriously considering this truck now. I love my truck except for the ext cab with no doors, and the old and beat up appearance, nagging problems due to it's age. So a nearly identical truck with low (85k) miles and the 4 doors I always wanted seems ideal. Another plus is I am familiar with the 6.5 now, and most importantly my plow and sander will bolt right on with no added expense or hassle. A lot of work to strip down my truck and outfit the new one though. Not looking forward to that.
The big minus is like Mark pointed out, it is awful long to be plowing residential. My ext cab is a little too big sometimes, and this truck is somewhat bigger. I don't do a ton of plowing, and I can pick and choose what I want to take on, but there's no getting around it, the truck is enormous. If I were doing a whole lot of driveways I'd get a regular cab just for plowing, but since it's my daily driver it has to compromise.
Great for pulling the camper and lugging the kids around. And it should last several years. What I'm thinking is, instead of trading my truck in, I'd just buy the new one, park them together and transfer all my equipment and gear and junk, then put the old one on ebay, get what Ican for it. Then take that money and pay down the loan on the new one. Anybody got any ideas on how to beat them up on the price? They are asking $13995, they are known for being pricy, but I don't know if they haggle since I've never bought from them. What I'd like to do is drive the truck, then throw a number at them and stick to it. I hate dickering back and forth. Ideally I'd like to get it for ten, but realistically I'd be happy if I could get it for twelve. Anybody know any formula for how much you can usually bargain? I think 40% is probably too much to hope for. But the guy already admitted to me they want to sell it because it is the less desireable 6.5, because everyone wants a Duramax.
So what do you think?
Tell him you will help him out, and take that 6.5 off his hands for 11K. They will probally drop right to 13K. Beat him down to 12K and your done. wesport
Oh dont offer squat till you road test the truck. Transfer case in all gears. Get er on the highway up to speed, and test the brakes as well.
Then come back and make your offer if all is good.
Hey Dan, look at your post count. (999)
Hey Dan, look at your post count. (999) Woo Hoo! What do I win? I actually just happened to notice it a few minutes ago on the 1000th post. Don't know how I noticed, I almost never look at that.
Myself, i'd keep on looking. Spending 4-5k on a door seems alittle much. Besides what about the mechanicial of the other 6.5l. When was the last time the injector pump was changed?? When upgrading Always move up a bodystyle.
Have you looked at any auctions in your area?? How about some repo's??
With the economy of today there are lots of deals out there!!! Keep in mind that gassers are somtimes in the long run cheeper than the diesels!!
Happy searching
DAFF
Do you need a dually? I know where there is a 00 crew short bed for sale. Nice truck, asking 12,000
Myself, i'd keep on looking. Spending 4-5k on a door seems alittle much. Besides what about the mechanicial of the other 6.5l. When was the last time the injector pump was changed?? When upgrading Always move up a bodystyle.
Have you looked at any auctions in your area?? How about some repo's??
With the economy of today there are lots of deals out there!!! Keep in mind that gassers are somtimes in the long run cheeper than the diesels!!
Happy searching
DAFF I don't get the $4-5k for a door statement. I was planning on spending $11-12k for a whole truck, pretty much the same but half the miles of my truck. The full crew doors is a big bonus for me, but not what I was buying. If it were a 2 door extended cab it wouldn't be worth changing, and if it were a 4 door with the same miles it wouldn't be worth it either.

I don't know much about the mechanical condition of the 99, but it is a diesel with only 85k miles on it, so mechanically it is likely still strong. Injector pumps rarely need to be changed, they only got that reputation due to dealers "misdiagnosing" pump failures so they could bill the manufacturer for a $2500 pump job instead of a $450 pump driver. Also, the injector pump is warranteed for 11 years or 110,000 miles.
Why should I move up a bodystyle? I happen to really like that bodystyle, and if I did go up a bodystyle it would put me into the Duramax series diesel. While I'd love to have a Duramax, they are still out of my price range. I'm not going to find a crew cab 4x4 D-Max with 85k for under $15k.
I've actually decided to keep my truck, spend some money on it and keep working it. But thanks for the input.

So I just got done looking at and driving a 1994 Chevy 2500 base work truck with a 305 V-8 and a very very nice Western 8 1/2 V-Plow.
The truck is very tight and very solid. First one I have driven that didnt have that "Wanderlust" and loose feeling. Its also the first Chevy I have driven that dosent make that sound when it goes into reverse. The truck is fairly straight and drives really good. We hooked up the Ultra mount V-Plow and you couldnt tell that it was even there. The truck feels like it has a very low gear ratio as it is extremely torquey and strong. Its an automatic and shifts good. It has a cat-back exhuast that makes it sound tough. The 305 feels strong enough but i'm concerned about its long term ability. The truck has never been a plow truck. the guy bought the truck for $3500.00 and the plow for $2500.00 and had the plow installed under the assumption that he would be plowing the same old small locations that he did last year but was instead awarded a contract for a huge shopping center and went and bought hisself a big diesel Chevy and a brand new V-plow.

The Good:
So the truck drives and rides really good. Good brakes. Tight steering. 4 New BFG AT's. Nice toolbox, The plow is fully functional and I tested it in the dirt. It worked really good and was suprisingly fast. The truck is geared really low. It has lots of power considering its a 305.
The bad:
It has six lug wheels.
The Ugly:
It has a 305 V8??.
Its $6000.00 and he will not budge.
Thy Verdict Gentlemen???:confused:
Well, it isnt an official 2500 due to 6 lug wheels. It is a 1500 with a little stiffer rear to make it have a higher GVWR, but not as high as an 8 lug 2500. The 305's in my opinion are okay, for a car. But I think the 5.7 350 would be much better off and you will get more longevity out of the 350. The truck looks very nice, but I wouldnt go over 5 grand for it. What kind of miles does it have??? I think for 6 grand you could find a decent 2500 that is 8 lug with a 5.7 350 in it. But good luck either way
Its got a 4 y/o barely used super nice 8'.6" Western "V" Pro plow.....
I really like the truck and its in much better shape mechanically than even the later model trucks I have looked at. It drives good. It has good barkes. It has good tires. Everything works correctly.
Can this truck handle that 8 1/2 foot Western V Plow???

Can this truck handle that 8 1/2 foot Western V Plow??? Depends on what type of plowing your going to be doing with it..for light plowing or a limited number of residential, it'd be fine. But if your gonna do a lot of heavy duty plowing with it or it's primary use will be for commercial use, I'd pass on it. Technically, since it's a light duty 2500 with a 7200-7700GVWR, the plow will be overweight for the front end but it will carry it, might just accelerate wear on the steering/suspension. The trans is the weak link in the equations, not the 305 engine. 90% of the light duty 2500's used the 4L60E trans..very few used the 4L80E like the actual 2500 8 lug trucks used. They're not the best trans for a plow truck if that's indeed what it has in it. If it does have the 80E, I might consider it since the plow is worth $2500-$3000 alone but again it just depends on the type of plowing it will be doing.
FYI: The only differences between a 1500 and a 2500 Light Duty are:
Front torsion bar rating
Rear leaf spring rating
9.5" 14 bolt rear end instead of the 1500's 8.5" 10 bolt rear
Sometimes the trans (like I mentioned)
Thanks B&B....I think Im gonna have to pass on that truck as well....Arrrgh.:realmad:
I sent one of the guys that works on my painting crew over to look at it as he has some plowing experience and evidently the plow in the up position is only 4" off the ground and when he tried to change its hieght with the chain deal he says it messed up all the angles???
Long story short he thinks the big V plow is overweighting the front end as the actual mounting pins are literally 3" off the ground and the truck has yet to plow a flake of snow.
I dont want to get all involved with adding heavy springs and the torsion bars are already torqued up......
Its a pass on the sweet "Lil" Chevy with the Monster plow!
I'm contracted to do a shopping center and two large apartment complexs....Need something a bit "Beefier" I think.
Little steep, but it also isn't a hagged out old plow truck either. I always like to buy my trucks used, then add the plow myself. Because I've seen how other people plow. I wouldn';t hesitate to get another 305, I'e had great luck with them. Everybody badmouths them because they aren't a 350, but they are essentially the same motor, making only a fraction less power. I can almost gaurantee you not many people could tell the difference while driving which one was 350 and which was a 305. They are just really close in performance when stock. Same design throughout, so they don't fail earlier because they are "weaker". I had one in an 81 K20, I beat the snot out of that thing for years, plowed, hauled, towed, four-wheeled 35s on it, that motor was old and tired, smoked a little on startup, but just couldn't kill it. And it would still light the tires. Had 4:10 with a detroit locker, I pulled out a couple Ford plowtrucks with it, and International 4900 flatbed, and a Freightliner ten wheel tractor. No shortage of power, especially if you've got the right gears, and it sounds like you do.
As far as the motor goes, you drove it, if it felt strong enough to you, then it is. It sounds like a really good work truck. Personally I would prefer 8 lug wheels, especially with an oversize plow on it. I'm not sure what that plow weighs, but it's probably pretty excessive for that truck.

I'm contracted to do a shopping center and two large apartment complexs....Need something a bit "Beefier" I think. 100% agree with you.. Might be a nice truck but I don't think it'd fit your need's. Keep looking though..the right truck for the right price is out there.:)
Depends on what type of plowing your going to be doing with it..for light plowing or a limited number of residential, it'd be fine. But if your gonna do a lot of heavy duty plowing with it or it's primary use will be for commercial use, I'd pass on it. Technically, since it's a light duty 2500 with a 7200-7700GVWR, the plow will be overweight for the front end but it will carry it, might just accelerate wear on the steering/suspension. The trans is the weak link in the equations, not the 305 engine. 90% of the light duty 2500's used the 4L60E trans..very few used the 4L80E like the actual 2500 8 lug trucks used. They're not the best trans for a plow truck if that's indeed what it has in it. If it does have the 80E, I might consider it since the plow is worth $2500-$3000 alone but again it just depends on the type of plowing it will be doing.
FYI: The only differences between a 1500 and a 2500 Light Duty are:
Front torsion bar rating
Rear leaf spring rating
9.5" 14 bolt rear end instead of the 1500's 8.5" 10 bolt rear
Sometimes the trans (like I mentioned) Dang, B&B I thought I was going to beat you to it and share my knowlege (thats not spelled right) about gm trucks, but no you had to beat me to it. :angry: :guns:
:waving: :D Good job with the info.
Wonder how hard it would be to add some beefier torsion bars to it.
I dig that truck but the mere thought of the plow dragging along the road as I go from jobsite to jobsite is very....:crying:
Wonder how hard it would be to add some beefier torsion bars to it.
I dig that truck but the mere thought of the plow dragging along the road as I go from jobsite to jobsite is very....:crying: Changing the bars is the easy and cheap part. Changing the trans isn't..:D
Dang, B&B I thought I was going to beat you to it and share my knowlege (thats not spelled right) about gm trucks, but no you had to beat me to it. :angry:
Good job with the info. :waving: Sorry Mark... I'll save the next one for ya..:D
:waving: Sorry Mark... I'll save the next one for ya..:D Ahh, you got more info than me anyway. I only know the diff trans, rear axles, etc but not the specific gvwr and stuff like that.
I have to disagree on the 305
Had an 86 GMC with a 305, most worthless, gutless truck I ever owned.
I have to disagree on the 305
Had an 86 GMC with a 305, most worthless, gutless truck I ever owned. The later 305 TBI's were much better than the old one's..I agree with you though,.... the pre-'88 Q-jet equipped one's can be real pigs...especially if the truck is geared wrong...I know, I have one myself.
When Y'all say changing the torsion bars is easy.....Easy like salvage yard and a few bolts easy??
I just want the truck to make it through 1 season. I will then retire it to back-up truck duty next year and find another truck for the v-Plow and leave the mounting hardware on the light duty 3/4 as a back in case the next truck fails.
I'm trying to get my foot in the "Door" as cheaply as possible. This truck has never plowed and it is tight and fairly solid. For some odd reason trucks with plows are crazy expensive here in Colorado. For me to get a functional unit with a good strong plow for $6,000 is doing good from the other garbage I have looked at.
So back to my question is it viable to get a set of heavier torsion bars from a salvage yard and make this truck work for my first year?
When Y'all say changing the torsion bars is easy.....Easy like salvage yard and a few bolts easy?? For the most part, yes. They're not hard at all to change... a hammer, an 18mm socket and an unloader tool to release the tension on the bars is all it takes..
I just want the truck to make it through 1 season. I will then retire it to back-up truck duty next year and find another truck for the v-Plow and leave the mounting hardware on the light duty 3/4 as a back in case the next truck fails.
So back to my question is it viable to get a set of heavier torsion bars from a salvage yard and make this truck work for my first year. Since your only looking to get one season out of it, I think it would work fine to "get your foot in the door" as long as it wasn't abused too hard. Treat it like a 1/2 ton, and not a 3/4 ton and I think it'd hold up for a while.

Well I just got back from my plow dealer who told me that there is not enough ground clearance with the front end of the truck only about 14 inches from the frame rails with the truck sitting on level ground you can see a noticeable sag (no plow yet).
Anyone else expeirencing the same or similar problems.
Called the dealer they said bring it in and we will look at it said theres probably nothing they can do but bring it in tomorow! :angry:
Huh?
I don't get it...
Turn the torsion bars up a couple round and that will get you a little more clearance. Also put a set of Timbrens on the front and that will help with the sag. Your dealer is wrong though about there not being enough room. There are several members on here that have plows mounted on the new body style HDs. Go look in the pic forums.
Turn the torsion bars up a couple round and that will get you a little more clearance. Also put a set of Timbrens on the front and that will help with the sag. Your dealer is wrong though about there not being enough room. There are several members on here that have plows mounted on the new body style HDs. Go look in the pic forums. I figured that the torsion bars may need an adjustment, but you'd think that with the heavy suspension etc you wouldnt have this much nose sag already the truck only has 11K miles on it .. you'd think I have the plow on it the way its sagging
nope. When I got my truck I had to twist the torsion bars myself. From the dealer it was sitting flat with nearly zero tension.
14" seems like its high to me. more than enough. if i understand this right. front end sag? guess i dont get it. all chevys have the nose dive appearance. timbrens will keep the front end up some. also make the ride worse. dont think they do much good other than keeping truck more level. a leveling kit will bring it up a couple inches. i have timbrens. doesnt sink as much in the front but it isnt like the truck can take more abuse the suspension and drivetrain is what it is. i wonder if thats just all cosmetic bs. if the plow goes on and the skid plate doesnt bottom out on the ground does it matter? when you add ballast it will level it out some. same with bringing up the torsion bars. it raises the truck. but if it isnt bottoming out does it matter? dont mind me im just thinking to myself.
the plow dealer said once he adds the mount I'll only have about 8 inches if I Keep it the way it so I guess I'll be making some adjustments ... whats funny is my 04 1500 we didnt have to do any thing with the front end everyone said ur gonna bottom out, or adjust the torsion bars nopa nada rode fine ... we'll see what happens later today I think the nose dive is a little more than normal? pumpkin:
No issues here at all. I have installed 13 new fisher plows this year with no clearance issues on the new chevys and gmc... keep in mind when the trucks are transported to the dealers the t-bars are set pretty low so the can crank the down on the transporter.. sounds to me that the plow dealer needs to understand trucks a little better.
The frame and suspension are the same. It will be quicker for you just to crank the bars yourself and I'm a little bit worried about your plow installer for not knowing this.
Just mounted a Blizzard 810 on the front of our new 07 2500 HD (NBS). Of course I put Timbrens but I haven't even cranked the t-bars yet and the thing carries the plow better than any other GM I have had yet.
Just mounted a Blizzard 810 on the front of our new 07 2500 HD (NBS). Of course I put Timbrens but I haven't even cranked the t-bars yet and the thing carries the plow better than any other GM I have had yet. Good to hear.!!!
You have any pics of that setup?
Just mounted a Blizzard 810 on the front of our new 07 2500 HD (NBS). Of course I put Timbrens but I haven't even cranked the t-bars yet and the thing carries the plow better than any other GM I have had yet. Have you monitored your trans temp prior to mounting your plow? I had run into a Tran Temp issue with the plow mounted. ( yes, the plow was angled properly... ). I worked through Western, GM Upfitters, Chevy local and Corporate Chevy. They just put a new huge trans cooler in last Friday. Although, It's shown improvements I'm still gathering data.
At 200 degrees ....you'll fry fluids, trans .. that stuff. Not too mention loss of power. Something to keep an eye open for. ( This is for the 2007 New Body Style )
Have you monitored your trans temp prior to mounting your plow? I had run into a Tran Temp issue with the plow mounted. ( yes, the plow was angled properly... ). I worked through Western, GM Upfitters, Chevy local and Corporate Chevy. They just put a new huge trans cooler in last Friday. Although, It's shown improvements I'm still gathering data.
At 200 degrees ....you'll fry fluids, trans .. that stuff. Not too mention loss of power. Something to keep an eye open for. ( This is for the 2007 New Body Style ) So you plowed last winter with an NBS. With what motor, 6L?
Certainly no problems with the plow off. We haven't taken it very far yet. Will keep an eye on that for sure.
So you plowed last winter with an NBS. With what motor, 6L? Nope. The NBS ( 2500 and above ) is just out for this coming season - no one has actually plowed with it before. I have been a hawk on watching the temp gauges prior to the new plow. Once I got the new plow and drove it home I noticed the condition. Ran some more tests, took measurements, looked at the air flow, made some phone calls and emails and there was a problem.
It's just far easier to address the situation now before a problem and before it snows than to have the truck drop power or fry the trans. Even with warranty that would take a tow and several days out of service.
Good to hear. I had mounted the plow myself so I hadn't really gone anywhere with it. My driver drives it, he lives about 10 miles from here. I told him to load the plow and drive around and watch it all. Will see what he reports over next couple of days.
Nope. The NBS ( 2500 and above ) is just out for this coming season - no one has actually plowed with it before. I have been a hawk on watching the temp gauges prior to the new plow. Once I got the new plow and drove it home I noticed the condition. Ran some more tests, took measurements, looked at the air flow, made some phone calls and emails and there was a problem.
It's just far easier to address the situation now before a problem and before it snows than to have the truck drop power or fry the trans. Even with warranty that would take a tow and several days out of service. Let us know how you make out with the tranny cooling issue, I had some issues over the summer with the trans getting into the upper 190's pulling a trailer when I had it back to the dealer in august for an oil chnage (free) I brought this up and they said under a load it may get into the 190's on hot days but as long as it doesnt break 200 its operating normal?
I brought this up and they said under a load it may get into the 190's on hot days but as long as it doesnt break 200 its operating normal? Totally correct, that's the way they are designed to run. Although guys don't like to see trans temps on the high side of 190* (including myself), that's just the way they are designed to operate.. It's just like engine temps.. 20 years ago the "normal" operating temp was about 180* or so...todays engines are designed to run hotter, and 210* is considered "normal"....the transmissions of today are no different. The biggest thing I don't like about the hotter running temps of today's engines and transmissions is that if they're already operating at 210* for the engine and 190-200* for the trans, it doesn't give you much "cushion" to prevent an overheat condition.

A local nursery has a 1993 GMC 3500 Regular Cab Long Box for sale. In the past 2 years the truck has recieved the following:
New Tires
New motor 20K ago
Rebuilt tranny 20K ago
New ball joints, pitman arm, tie rods, etc.
New Fuel Pump, New Battery
New Alternator
The truck has its share or dings and scratches, Power Windows, Locks, DMI Steel Bumper, 4x4, 242,000 miles on it now. They are asking $4000.00. Do you think its a solid buy or not? I cant lean one way or the other, so I need some help!!!:dizzy: :dizzy:
If he can show you receipts for the motor and trans etc, then it might be an alright deal. If he doesn't have any proof of the parts and work he is claiming, then I'd have to pass.
If its got a new engine, trans and front end work its not a bad deal. But, If they are asking $4k they might take $3k. Go there with cash and make the offer.