Just goes to show Murphy law is still present, I went out to start the truck to hook up the plow/salter and load up with salt and the truck wouldn't start, I just got done replacing the starter on my 99 plow truck (-6 with wind chill and started to snow just as I was getting done). I looked it over, come to find out the wire that connects the solinoid to the starter motor was corroded and broke off. That was the first time that I have seen that wire go bad, anyway I'm ready for the snow.
i think you said it all (THAT SUCKS):guns:
Yeah well now I'll go out tonight and get my money back, it just sucks that it takes $164.55 out of my profit.
what motor do you have?? i have a 99 with 5.3 (no plow)

I have a 2002 2500hd and I have put a actuator in the front axle.But the truck is still hard to get into 4x4,it has to be backed up around 20 feet or pulled forward about the same.(which make it rough it you are stuck).Also when it finally does engage the light in the dash dosent show it.what could cause it not to want to engage the way it should and the light not work.Thanks
Is your truck push button or floor shift 4WD?
i'll reply mine takes that long too.. its on the floor.. but after i use it a few times it goes in and out much better
but after i use it a few times it goes in and out much better Are we talking about Viagra again?
how did you know :realmad: glad that i'm not the only one...
any serous answers? and it gets easier to get in 4wheelwesport
The shifter is in the floor.I would think it should not have to be moved forward or reverse to get it to engage.(like I said if you already stuck you have to get pulled ).Its like the gears wont line up for it to lock its self in.
after you lock it a few times dose it lock better??? my 94 has never engaged well
Not really ! I was wondering if I could take the actuator back out and spray some wd-40 in the front end to get things loosened back up if they are sticking.or maybe even get some grease up in there (the axle)?
Not really ! I was wondering if I could take the actuator back out and spray some wd-40 in the front end to get things loosened back up if they are sticking.or maybe even get some grease up in there (the axle)? Never wd40 - It freezes.
There should be two sensors that trigger the 4x4 light. Try putting the truck in neutral before shifting into 4x4 or let off the gas pedal. ( You might even check under the carriage and see if anything is tied up, bent or frozen.
What's the lube oil in the front diff.? Low fluid level can keep diff. from locking up...
i'll reply mine takes that long too.. its on the floor.. but after i use it a few times it goes in and out much better crb, by any chance is your truck pre '96? If so, yours will have the "thermal linear" style actuator. Some of those can be slower than molasses in January to engage.Do you know you can upgrade to the newer (and faster) electric style actuator that's used on the newer truck's? You can buy the actuator and harness conversion as a kit from GM for less than $150.00.
Paintslinger, The first thing to check is the fluid level in the diff. If these 9 1/4 diff's are run low on fluid the first thing that get's starved for lube is the 4X4 actuator cavity. It sound's like the shift fork or axle collar is binding on their respective shaft's (maybe due to lack of lubrication).When you shift it in 4WD does it stay engaged under a heavy load or has it kicked out on it's own before? If the 4X4 light isn't illuminated when it's in 4WD lead's me to suspect that it's not FULLY engaged which would be caused by the binding shift fork or axle collar.
I have never had it kick out on me,but i have never had it in a real hard bind.Would the shift fork or axle collar be bent or just a lack of lubrication.The guy who I bought the truck from said he never had any trouble with the 4x4 but the light in the dash never has lit up.
Did you ever ask the preivious owner if it was always slow to engage? Could have been a problem since the truck was new. If their was a slight mismatch between the collar and the axle engagement spline's due to a defective manufacturing process I could see it being hard for the actuator to move the fork/collar assembly since the truck was new. If it turns out that this is a recent problem then I'd suspect either it's low on fluid or the spline's were damaged from a harsh ingagement at some point (ie. pulling it in 4WD while the rear tire's were spinning at a high speed) I'd definitely check the fluid level first though.
Thanks for the help, the previous owner said he never had any trouble with it .I just asume that it shifted fine other than no light. I'll check the fluid and then go from there.Thanks for the help !!!!!!!!!
Glad to help...let us know what you find when you get a chance to check the fluid.
crb, by any chance is your truck pre '96? If so, yours will have the "thermal linear" style actuator. Some of those can be slower than molasses in January to engage.Do you know you can upgrade to the newer (and faster) electric style actuator that's used on the newer truck's? You can buy the actuator and harness conversion as a kit from GM for less than $150.00. :waving: thanx , i will try to get one this summer and yes its a 94 :bluebounc
Summit racing products offers a cable conversion kit that manually actuates the front drive axle- I believe the kit was about 130 bucks- guarantees that the front diff is locked in- if my actuator ever goes out on my '93 k2500, that's what I will put in- mine also has to go forward , or backward about 20 ft to engage- don't ever shut the truck off , on a hill , with a full load of firewood in it, then try to start it up, expecting it to be in 4 wd- learned a quick lesson that day...'Rude Dog

I checked the fuses and switched around relays does anyone know what my next step could be? Thanks
Change the light bulbs!!!:dizzy:
Changed the bulbs first:nod:
Start tracing wires for a break or short.
does your dome light not work at all or will it come on if you turn the switch on the dash on??
the dome light doent work at all thats what makes me think it has to be a fuse if both reverse and dome arent working they stopped working at the same time. it going to be hard plowwing tonite with no reverse lights
the dome light is on the crtsy lmps fuse under the hood i believe and i don't think the reverse lights are on the same fuse so you might have a bad switch at the tranny or a wiring problem but definitely look under the hood for the crtsy lmps fuse and also does your rear facing cargo lamp work
The cargo lamp still works, the reason I think that these two functions are related is because when I pressed the unlock button on my key the reverse lights and dome light went on, that is before this problem.
i still think that they are on seperate circuits and are not related except for the fact that they are used for exterior illumination when the remote is used to lock or unlock the vehicle
thanks, I looked to see if I could locate the crtsy lp fust on the diagram under the hood and by the drivers door I couldnt find it beut i did find the B/U lamps fuse but it tested ok. I really appreciate all the help keep it coming.
Their is one common link between the dome, back up and remote entry system's. Rob, what engine/transmission combo is in your truck? Sound's like an irrelevant question for a dome/back up light problem but it does make a difference as far as diagnosis goes.
B&B you r the man. Is has a 6.0 Gas Vortec
Rob, I wish I could tell you that this is a 5 min fix and hate to say it but your gonna need the dealer to fix this problem,as this isn't something you can fix on your own (even with my help). If you didn't find any fuse or relay problem's including the TRAILER back up light fuse (you did check it also didn't you?) then the common denominator here is the body control module (BCM).The b/u lights, dome lights and your remote entry system are ALL controlled by the BCM. It's located behind the dash right above the trans tunnel.I think if you take it in to the dealer their gonna find a problem with it. The BCM has it's own diagnostic system built into it just like the main ECM does that operate's the engine and transmission. It also has it's own fault codes, just like the engine ECM. A technician can scan it looking for trouble code's and this is what I think need's to be done. The BCM's themselves do fail on occasion and it will usually set a trouble code AND cause the type of problem's your experiencing.
I had the same problem in my 04 3500 dump. Gas with auto tranny. It's still under warranty so they covered it at N/C. Sorry I can't help.

Took delivery of my new '04 GMC 2500HD a couple weeks back. I noticed a little "stumble" from the engine while idling in park, or in gear with my foot on the break. I figured it was just a symptom of the break-in period for the engine, but it's still noticeable and I've got 1100kms on it now.
Took it to GM today and the ran a diagnostic test which produced no trouble codes, there are no service bulletins about this problem, and their inspection under the hood yielded no visible problems either. Whether or not they actually got in the vehicle, started it up, and noticed the stumble - I can't say. I picked it up after the mechanics had all gone home for the night.
It doesn't feel like a major issue, and is somewhat intermittant when it occurs but it is a brand new $40K truck so I want to be sure nothing's wrong. Has anyone had this type of stumble/misfire? from their GM's? Any clues as to what it could be?
For now I'll just continue to monitor it and if it starts affecting performance/drivability I'll return to the dealer.
Oh, forgot to mention it's the 6.0L gasser.
I cannot add anything to this, but I would like to tell you to make sure that you document each time you notice it. My dad did that with a few problems, in addtion to having it in for service and making mention of it. Be sure they write it down as a recurring problem, he was able to get a few parts replaced out of warranty, due to the fact that he had commented about them before and all they said "thats normal", so he continued to document the many times he had the problem, and went in with his record of trouble, and the copeies of his old service tickets. they kept it two days, and went over everything to make sure nothing else needed to be replaced, they even changed his oil just for the inconvenience of keeping it that long (oil needed changing, but was only at like 2700miles)
Good luck with your new truck!!
We see it sometimes after we service a vehicle and disconnect the battery.If they don "relearn" just right,they will hesitate or stall sometimes.Sometimes you will get this on a new vehicle depending on how it was driven before delivery.
Take the battery cable off,and turn on the parking lights for a few mins.Reconnect the battery,and start truck.Let it idle for 10-15 mins,with nothing else on.Now turn on the headlights,and the AC and let it idle again for 10 mins or so.Now drive it for 15-20 mins gently to let it complete the relearn.It may solve your problem.