Anyone else out there have quadrasteer on their plow truck? If so, how has it held up. I found a few old post from Hamptonplow, but nothing recent. I purchased a 2005 crew cab this summer and put a 8'2 Boss power V on it. The little bit I've used it for plowing this season has been great, it really saves me time being able to turn around in such a small space, now instead of backing up an replowing I can turn around a plow back the other way.
Thanks, Steve
I almost bought one but decide against it, It was awesome for turning.
But because its a $5K option, I kept wondering how much it would cost to fix it.
So I decide not to take the chance.
Sounds like just another thing to go wrong to me.
Sounds like just another thing to go wrong to me. With an attitude like that it makes me think that you must just use a snow shovel - can't have a snowblower - might break, 4 wheel drive - to many moving parts, might break, get the drift - the vehicles we drive today are much more dependable than those of the past, just because it has a couple more moving parts doesn't make it bad.

Im looking for informaiton on the ABS wheel sensor that causes the ABS to turn on when I am crawling to a stop with my foot on the brake pedal.
I was told that I can clean it and that could possibly solve the problem.
Where is it?
How do I get to it?
Has anyone done this before?
my truck did the same darn thing,i hated it :angry:
i went through an clened the sensors an re[laced two of them...did the same crap..
know how i fixed it? un hooked it no abs ...i was worried about hitting some one it down when it kicked in,it sucked..just my 2 cents....by the way it was a 98 chevy
Follow the wire running down into the hub assembly. It is bolted in there. They had a recall on my wifes 01 Yukon for corrosion on sensor. Took the dealer 30 min to clean both fronts.
Known issues with Chevy. They do have new assemblies that correct this for .... $600 a side not including hardware.
Take it to a brake shop they charge about $90 to break both wheels down to clean, adjust and seal the sensors. The dealer usually charges $150.
Or just take the fust for the ABS out. I did this for several months with what I thought was better braking.
I guess thats not a bad idea... only thing is ill have to pump the brakes and maybe i'll do the maintinance in the spring. thanks for the help guys
Have it checked out, It could be and prob, is one of your front hubs. had it happen to me and relaced one hub @ the cost of $165 from Carquest.
what do you mean a front hub? like the locker part? not too sure I follow. Either way wont pulling the ABS fuse fix this? if it is a front hub will that cause problems with my 4x4 / diff? Thanks
Your front hub assem is just inside the brake rotor. You can check this at home with a simple floor jack just raise up the frontend and grab the tire from top and bottom and wiggle it their should not be any play in it.
great thanks, ill check it tonight... but if it is will it have an effect on my 4x4 / diff ect?
It will not affect your 4x4 however you should have it replaced, again if you buy the part from a parts store and find a auto tech that works on the side you should be able to have it replace for $250 - $300. I wouldn't go with out my ABS.
I am not sure if it is the same on the fullsize but I know on the S series the fornt "hub" is a sealed unit.....front wheel bearing that includes the ABS sensor. You can just pull the fuse (I think 60 amp) to shut down the ABS pump. It will turn on the ABS light on your dash until it is fixed though.
Kevin
:realmad: I hate Chevy for this reason. They did a recall on those ABS sensors prior to the 98 versions, Then after reporting this to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, GM came out with the recall starting on 1999 vehicles. And Trust me I begged GM to replace this because my truck at the time was blowing lights and it hit my garage as well, and better yet, I ONLY HAD 48,000 miles on factory warranty and they refused to replace it thus my years had expired. BUT WAIT GM, THIS CORROSION PROBLEM DIDN"T JUST HAPPEN IN THE PAST WEEK. . :guns: Thanks GM :guns: . I guess GM didn't get enough pressure from NHTSA to have a mandatory recall. For This reason only, I feel that Ford may be the better product but after all those early retirements, and lay-offs and factory closings, Not Sure what to buy now!!!!:realmad:

I've got a 90 chevy 1/2 ton that doen't know if its a 4wd or 2wd. The light by the shifter for the 4wd says its in 4wd, but the front end isn't getting the message. Sometimis it works, but most of the time when you really need it, it doesn't. I've ben told its probably that doohicky that screws into the front end to the right of the diff. but i have no idea how to check it Any input would be greatly appreciated. (I'm a ford mechanic by trade, Chevy driver by choice, except for the wifes Explorer, gotta keep the boss happy with at least one ford in the driveway)
It is the actuator assy,the new one will come with a wiring harness,you need to t-tap one wire under the tranny hump,the new one is an electric motor,and wilkl come in and out in 1 second,as opposed to 7-10 seconds for the heated stock one.
In my travels, I have seen a conversion kit for the heated actuators, looks like a choke cable coming thru the dash, you lock and unlock the CAD at will.
The upgraded acutator is cheaper than the conversion,and I could see some dumby trying to engage the axel going down the road,with the T--case in 2wd,ouch.In all honesty the cable is more reliable,,but Id rather have the one lever,it is so fast with the new actuator,that it is almost instantanously in 4wd.

Has anyone tried this after market torsion key replacement? I talked to a shop that puts them in 1999 and beyond chevy/gmc trucks. The mechanic installed a set in his own truck, and it raised the front end up 3 inches. The benefits he claimed were that you never need to turn up your torsion bars and it is 100% safe for all front end and suspension parts. The down side is that I own a 1998. Does anyone know if they make a kit for 1998 model trucks?
Yes I've heard of that and I've heard some people say it was 100% safe and good and other say it was stupid and dangerous basically what your doing is replacing your 3/4-1ton key with a 1/2 ton key it does have the benefit of jacking up your front end but it will put more strain on your front end components. Several of the people that I have met that have done this have ended up replacing their Torsion bars after a year or so since they for some reason tend to break when you do this and carry a plow. It could just be bad torsion bars or people are really beating the snot out of their trucks but I'm not going to watch someone drive a truck for a year to find out which it is. Also as far as I know it will work on all the 88+ 4x4 trucks you can go to your local GM dealer and get a set of green (think they are the green ones) keys from them for a bit less then the kits in general.
Don't do it.
I have a set ford keys in my old truck for the same purpose.
But when you lift your truck that high you start seriously changing the angles of the front drive shaft, and the CV joints on the front axles. Meaning your going to be Breaking many more drivetrain parts very quick.
It sucks when your front drive shaft and Cv axles start binding and those's boots will be gone within a month.
Trust me I have done it and been there.
By time I fixed my issue's, it would have been much cheaper to buy a real and proven lift kit.
Lift Kits are design to keep your drivetrain angles correct by dropping the front axle and the indexing the transfer case.
I do suggest you stay away from lift kits made by CST and there other names as many of my friends have used them and there customer service is beyond poor.
They don't take phone calls and when you do get thru, they always tell you BS and never deliver, They'll get mad and hang up on you and leave you hanging.
TrailMaster, Superlifts and BDS are great companys to buy from and they have great support and real products that work right.
Has anyone tried this after market torsion key replacement? I talked to a shop that puts them in 1999 and beyond chevy/gmc trucks. The mechanic installed a set in his own truck, and it raised the front end up 3 inches. The benefits he claimed were that you never need to turn up your torsion bars and it is 100% safe for all front end and suspension parts. The down side is that I own a 1998. Does anyone know if they make a kit for 1998 model trucks? They won't raise the front end three inches, you can get 2 safely, but you still need to turn up the torsion bars. The only time you will break a torsion bar is if you max it out so the suspension has nowhere to go. The re-indexed keys basically allow you that adjustment before the torsion bars get strained. It is reasonably safe but not 100%, like any lift it will wear frontend components somewhat faster. As far a CV axle angles being compromised, what I've seen is the keys don't increase the angle very dramatically, whereas a 4 or 6 inch suspension lift, even with the dropped front axle results in a steeper angle, and they don't have a lot of problems, as long as you stay with a big name like someone else suggested. I looked into keys and read up on them a lot last year, was going to do them but since I am really limited with tire choices on a dually, and I don't want to raise my trailer hitch or my plow frame any, I talked myself out of it. If you go to FSC.com (fullsize Chevy), go to offroad section and near the top there is a sticky with a step by step installation guide complete with photos. All the info you could ever want. Also check ebay motors, I've seen a few different kits on there.
I just found a link to the FSC guide, but since I have toruble sometimes with them I'll just tell you where to find it. In this forum there is a thread called warning for torsion bars, page 3 post #53 by diehard has the link. If you choose to read all the posts like I just did, be cautious because many people there don't know what the heck they are talking about.
I love being referenced... :) cool .. .
Thanks for everyone who responded. I guess if you think about it the plow is only on the truck a fraction part of the year and i have air cells in the front so too me it is not worth the risk of damaging the front end. It is more of a cosmetic need then practical plus i am from Mn and it hasn't even snowed yet and it is almost Christmas!
anyone know where io can get a set of these keys in the chicagoland area
anyone know where io can get a set of these keys in the chicagoland area Try either Chicagoland Torsion Bar Keys-and-More store, or eBay Motors. Let's see, who else carries them...did you try Torsion Bar Key-Mart? Hmmm...Everything For a Buck, except torsion bar keys?
Victoria's Suspension?
Cherry, Webb and Torsion?
I'm really struggling here.
JK! JK!
Thanks for everyone who responded. I guess if you think about it the plow is only on the truck a fraction part of the year and i have air cells in the front so too me it is not worth the risk of damaging the front end. It is more of a cosmetic need then practical plus i am from Mn and it hasn't even snowed yet and it is almost Christmas! What are air cells ? My tahoe aint like the old tahoe,,She is having her front end pushed down hard with a plow..The old one was fairly unaffected :)
Tips for getting the front end to support my load better ? ? ?
Just go to the local Chevy dealer and get a list of all the Bars available for your truck. Also get the info on what the bar is made for, 1/2, 3/4, 1ton. You will probably find that your bar is, depending on vehicle, located within a certain range of available options. You can step up a level or three lvl's, so to speak, to gain what you need. I checked into this last month and my local chevy dealer was quoting about $250 per or for the set, Sorry can't remember exactly if it was per bar or not, but I know that it was cheaper than the truck mags. Also you can look into junk yards but chances are that if your truck is older, than trying to find the correct number on worn tags are going to be hard. Thus, I have the 98 Z71 package and the mine was rated in the middle, just before you get to 1 ton range, but I decided to stick with what I have and I also plan on getting a newer truck in the next year or so.
Right here
Right here Is that a spam post ? What am i to find at that site ? I really dont see what the point of that link was,,I am dense ya but what is in there to help support the front of my truck with the plow mounted ? ? ?
That company sells the new keys, don't you think?
That company sells the new keys, don't you think? No i dont think so.Look at the site,not only is it cluttered,but from the looks of it a bit narrow in what it does sell.If it sold keys which it may that link he posted shold have carried me to the keys. Sorry but self promotion is not the answer I was asking for :(
Anyway I had of all places my buddies dealer set me up,He set the torsion bars and aligned the truck,my front end is level with back end and with the plow it drops an acceptable amount,If i add ballast to the rear of 250lbs I should be in great shape to face the snow if it ever falls again in western NY :drinkup:
I installed the keys first and it levelled off my truck. The only rub here is it eats up your wheel travel a little and maxes you shocks out. A 5'8" spacer oon top of the shocks take care of this. I also installed a Cognito levelling kit which gives you redsigned (from a GM engineer)upper control Arms that give you back wheel travel , greaseable ball joints and reposition the shocks. Ride was better than when I bought the truck new. I can carry my plow and not really even notice it that muc. It's been on my truck for a year and I have no problems and the front end parts all look good and ride great.
why not just crank the tbars a few turns and add timbrens?
No i dont think so.Look at the site,not only is it cluttered,but from the looks of it a bit narrow in what it does sell.If it sold keys which it may that link he posted shold have carried me to the keys. Sorry but self promotion is not the answer I was asking for :(
:
someone is a little paranoid
why not just crank the tbars a few turns and add timbrens?
someone is a little paranoid
Ya ok,,maybe i just would enjoy a helpfulll link not a link to a site that looks like it is his own side line business..If i wanted that I could turn off spam guard ...... Funny he never replied after my comment,,maybe he is the one with paranoia
Try kwikset.com the have plunty of keys.:D
RCGM
Brad

I have a friend who will be towing his 4wd S-10 blazer behind a motorhome from CT to FL this Friday. He has heard conflicting info as towhether he must remove the driveshafts or can just pull the xfer case lever into N. Dealers do not even agree. Question is, is there a pump in the xfer case? If not its ok to tow in N if there is the shafts must go.
Help is appreciated.
What year? I know that pre-1994 Blazers did not have a pump in the x-case. They can be towed safely in N.
I will check on the others when I get ot my shop. I have a book made by Valley Towing on what vehicles can be towed and how.