Hey guys, i have a 4 yr old torwell sander and ijust installed it on a new truck. Same wiring and everything. Seems that this year it is harder to start it in colder temps and it takes alot of playing with the choke/keys to get it to fire up.
Inside the cab controls are basic key start, where u push down on the key to choke it...just wondering if there is something i can tweak to get it to start quicker.....maybe just a little starting fluid into the carb?
I would start with the basics,Carb clean,tank flush set the float height,make sure there are no air leaks bad fuel line etc.Tune up...Make sure the choke is working correctly and if that doesn't fix it then I would throw in a compression test, maybe I would do that first...
These things(Spreader) are not treated the best being out in the harshest environments so a real going over maybe in order....
it has an electric choke, seems to be working. once it gets going i can see there is a small arm that i assume is connected to the throttle or the choke. which ever it is it moves slightly right and left and causes a choppy idle, and some times engine pops, when i hold this rod steady the engine idles smoothly.
Dealer keeps telling me that it just has to warm up(phone call) but it never did this before if i can recall. any ideas before i drag it out to them :dizzy:
it has an electric choke, seems to be working. once it gets going i can see there is a small arm that i assume is connected to the throttle or the choke. which ever it is it moves slightly right and left and causes a choppy idle, and some times engine pops, when i hold this rod steady the engine idles smoothly.
Dealer keeps telling me that it just has to warm up(phone call) but it never did this before if i can recall. any ideas before i drag it out to them :dizzy: Depending on where the choke is when it is running smoothly??? If the choke has to be on a little when the engine is warmed up to run smoothly it has a dirty carb and needs to be cleaned...Hard to tell from your description what is what....That maybe the engine governor that you are playing with also???? That would be a carb adjustment also????
As we used to say at the dealership my crystal ball is a little fuzzy right now.Without hands on hard to tell...

I have an e47 power unit. I can not get it to raise i am running the dual toggle switch setup. I just had the power unit tested by local meyer repair center they said the power unit is fine. and I have a new wiring harness for it. but the bracket i made for the toggles is out of plastic. It will turn to the right, but not anything else. Please help ... anyone have any ideas?????
Sounds like an "A" solenoid problem...........are you getting power to it when you hit the switch. The "A" solenoid is the one at the back of the power unit.
There is no power at the black wire but there is at the red, and green. But the pump was just tested and everything was working fine for them.

Hi guys,I have a 98 Dodge 3500 diesel,dually with a Cummins in it.
I took it to Mr.Transmission and they told me that 2nd gear is gone.
They might just need to replace a band,or they might need to do a re-build!!
Should I let them rebuild the torque converter too(dont know if this is really necessary,or they just want the extra cash)?
Secondly,do you guys think that I should install a "shift kit" to improve shifting?
What tranny is in it ? AND always get a new torque converter when rebuilding a tranny ALSO INSIST the cooling lines and cooler are FLUSHED prior to install of new tranny..
The tranny is a 3 speed aotomatic,with an overdrive.
I should get a new torque converter?
What can go wrong if i dont?tymusic
I am guessing you went there because you had a tranny problem ? Or did you show up for a fluid change and where told ya had no second gear ?
And the T/C can deposit small shavings into the new transmission...causing valve body sticking and premature failure of hard parts in the unit it self..DON'T skimp..And the bull crap ya need a band is usually a set up statement..The old Chrysler units and some Ford trannies could have a band issue where the servo that applies it cracks,or the band it self breaks..BUT with out knowing what series unit you have I am doubting that is your issue..
dont let them half a$$ reman it with just a band or clutch pack.
do a full reman job with reman or new convotor. and flush all lines and coolers.
if you realy like the truck and plan to keep it and run it for what its built for and that motor will put out. i rec a reman tranny form a shop that sells those hop up parts for oil burnnin trucks. thay now the week points much better than std tranny shops. also there convrtors and built with multiply clutches and forged hubs in the housing. this all makes 200-300 more holding capacity in over drive. stock only have 1 disc in there. it dont take much to burn it up.
this might cost a few more bucks but if it were me i would do it and never realy think about it again.
this is some good info and just a place to start. http://www.bd-power.com/ram/product....n%20Kit&tt=ram
also try www.towrig.com for some good info on the oil burnner trucks.
get a second opinion before someone tells you you need a new trans and you may also get a cheaper estimate out of it
maximus, were are you in T.O. I know of a great tranny shop in Scarbough that do alot of work on Dodge cummins trucks If you like I can give you there name and number, they'll do a good job for you.
tymusic
By the way, I had a real bad experiance with a Mr T shop once, NEVER again!
The tranny is a 3 speed aotomatic,with an overdrive.
I should get a new torque converter?
What can go wrong if i dont?tymusic
Get a new one. If they say they are going to rebuild it there full of SH!T!!
You/they do not rebuild them.....
The fluid it the converter can be contaminated, The converter can be damaged by the junk in the fluid and the heat generated from a failing tranny.
Cost, how much is it going to cost you to replace the converter after you have a new tranny installed and then it goes bad possibly taking the new tranny with it.
Thanks "Fatboy",I'm in woodbridge,and have no problem going to Scar...
Even have soft body armour,lol
feel free to call me at (416)606-3244 thanks
Unless you have nothing but good recommendations, I wouldn't go to a chain tranny shop. Find a good hole in the wall mom and pop place that has been there for years and years. They aren't stuck with quotas and minimum sales.
A second quote is a good idea as someone mentioned above.
Jason
get a second opinion before someone tells you you need a new trans and you may also get a cheaper estimate out of it Indeed. Get a second opinion.
Did they confirm 2nd is mechanically gone? If it is an electronically controlled transmission, then it might be just a bad solenoid or wiring.
For example, I picked up a Trans Sport van and I was told the transmission was on its way out. Not a biggie since I can work on cars. Sometimes it would lose 4th gear and the torque converter clutch, and sometimes it would slip or shudder. Turned out it was just bad wiring connections to the solenoids. After fixing that it works much better, and Ive also towed my travel trailer 1600 miles with it since then and no problems.
Also about 10 years ago with the 6000, the torque converter kept kicking in and out constantly. A GM trans shop told me I needed a new torque converter clutch solenoid, a $400 job by them. I said Ill think about it. Turned out it was the thermostat, stuck open it ran cool and kept kicking in and out of warmup mode. $6 later it was perfectly fine.
I've got a place in mind like that,but after talking to AAMCO,they did a pretty good job of telling me how they're gonna update parts inside the tranny,and use bigger valve bodies.
Seems like the more I look into it, the harder it is to make a decission as to who I should take it to.
I got a price of $1700 from the old "mom and pop" guy. this includes a "new" torque converter.
and shift kit. I got a price of $2,500 from MR TRANSMISSION,and 2 different prices from AAMCO.
What you guys think?tymusic
Oh,and btw,Mr Transmission sis hook it up to their diagnostic which told them that 2nd gear was not holding.
Oh,and btw,Mr Transmission sis hook it up to their diagnostic which told them that 2nd gear was not holding. If that is all they did to test it, that right there should be all you need NOT to use them.
One thing you never mentioned. How does the truck drive?
Did you notice a problem with 2nd gear? I would hope you would have noticed something wrong.
I don't know on a '98, but on the older trannies if you lost 2nd you also lost 3rd. This might be different on electronic trannies, though.
I'm with the rest, get a complete rebuild and new torque convertor. Definitely add a shift kit and anything else that will make it stronger if you are keeping this truck for any length of time.
AAMCO any one know what that stands for ?
A= All
A= Automatics
M= Must
C= Come
O= Out
I was with a direct competor,,Lee Myles,,years ago..The founder of Lee Myles was an Ex corporate executive from aamco ...There company philosophy and name sake is based exactly on what I have shown above.
Usually There re-builders are top notch BUT to know which AAMCO has top notch builders call the local BBB see which one has the least complaints :) .
There is no joke with a trany, It is a difficult purchases because there are so many moving parts that MUST make a 100% seal and so many tolerances that have to be checked and or made to work within certain limits..
Usually a tranny with a bad second will have a bad 4th or a bad reverse..Depends on the tranny type..YOU HAVE yet to say what brought you to a tranny shop to begin with :) and you have not told us what tranny is in the truck..
Jasco Rebuilds are top notch by the way .. And there pre-tested before there shipped..
I think the tranny is a 47RE.
Here's what happens: from a stand still,if I accelerate slowly,the tranny usually shifts ok,but when I accelerate harder,the tranny stays in first. I can get it to shift if i come off the gas,shift neutral ,then back into drive.
all the other gears are fine,reverse is fine too
Thoughts ?
It isn't the band. If the band was shot, you'd never get it into 2nd gear no matter what. I don't think you'd get out of first gear.
I actually had decent luck with a Jasper on one of my trucks. Won't do it again, but it lasted longer than any of the ones my dealer rebuilt\replaced.

Does anyone know if there is a way to repair the meyer salt spreader controller. I have been told the buyers models are junk, and the meyers models are just so expensive. It seems like it would be simple to repair. Any help would be great, thanks.
Does anyone know if there is a way to repair the meyer salt spreader controller. I have been told the buyers models are junk, and the meyers models are just so expensive. It seems like it would be simple to repair. Any help would be great, thanks. Our's went down only after 1 year of use. If I remember right the guy at the dealer said they are nothing but a reastat (not sure if thats how to spell it) which controls the electrical current. I dont know if there is any "fixing" those when they go bad. He told me a new Meyer's controller would run over 350 bucks:eek: Ours was under a 2yr warranty though:D