I changed the hydraulic fluid and remounted my blade. Now, when I move the joystick up it doesn't do anything. I moved the joystick to the right and it moved the blade to the right and now it's stuck in that direction. When I move the stick to the left it raises the blade but doesn't turn the plow to the left. Moving it down works as it should. Also, when I raise the blade it very slowly lowers back to the ground even with the joystick centered. Any thoughts?
1st you got air into the system. 2nd whos plow brand?
The blade's a Western. However, I have no idea what the pump is. How do I get rid of the air? I have some pics in the 'Refilling Hydraulic Pump' thread. It won't let me repost them here.
What kind of Western? The cable operated pump or electronic joy stick.
Electronic controls you may need to clean up the plug / connections where it connects to the pump. Put dielectric grease on all connections to keep them clear of crude and moisture. You can down load manuals from the plow manufacturer's web site that have trouble shooting guides. Millsupply.com should still have them also. The joy stick could also be having internal issues.
problem, that may do the trick.

well actually i have no power when i hooked up my plow to make sure all was working it wasnt no lights the plow was not moving and the control in the cab did not light i heard a slight clicking from under the hood but that was the only thing happening please help
Cheek and clean the electrical connections.
Make sure you turn the plow on. (small switch on the controller)
Still no luck.. cheek out the solenoid.
thanks for your help

I have a 2-year old Homesteader (7'-4") on a 2000 S-10 Chevy Pickup.
Before taking the plow off late last spring, I was taking the truck for a ride (plow still on) and went to angle it to the right while driving. It hardly moved although I was then able to angle it to the left somewhat. I stopped trying to use the controls and waited until I got home to see what was wrong. It lowered OK but was very slow to raise and angle either direction. I tried some trouble shooting before taking it off for the summer but haven't gotten any solution yet.
I remounted the plow today and it won't raise or do anything -- so how I'm going to get it to a shop for work is still a question --
Here's what I've got so far:
The hydraulic fluid seems to be full in the reservoir. I've got good ground at the plow (-)terminal and good voltage (+14vdc) at the (+) terminal when the joystick is operated. I unplugged the harness on the driver's side which I think is the control leads (raise/angle/lower) and they have a resistive ground reading -- I don't know what is the proper reading.
On the Homesteader website was a mention of 2 fuses, one for the headlites (which work fine) and the other for the joystick control but doesn't say where it is.
Any ideas on where to proceed and how I can at least get the plow raise up to drive it to a plow shop if I need to?
Thanks
I had the same problem last year with a truck I used at work it was a western plow though. I took the truck to the shop and they had the truck for 2 days right before the last big storm we had up here, they replaced everything new except for the hydr. motor that makes the plow do all the moving. When I got the truck back the blade dropped very slow and moved alittle slower, by the end of the storm the plow wouldn't work again and I dont know what the problem was and neither did the mechanic.
what kind of plowing did you do with the truck, and did you have any problems with the truck. Reason I'm asking is I have a dakota and I want to put a plow on t but I'm alittle unsure about how it might perform.
You can jack the plow up and short chain it. does the red light on the controler light? if so the fuse to the controler is good. Does the 12 volt motor solinoild funtion? if you are getting 12 volts at the motor how many amps are you drawing? Try throwing 12 Volt to the moter directly, does it run?.
To answer the replies so far, the light on the controller DOES light, but this type of plow (Homesteader) does not have a chain like most, so short chaining it cant' be done. I tried just lifting it manually and the main hydraulic cylinder won't go "in". // For those of you not familiar with a Homesteader (or Western Suburbinite) the "lift arm" which normally goes up to lift the plow retracts in to lift this type. //
The solenoid seems to operate fine as I measured the voltage through it at the cable terminations on the plow. How/where should I measure the amps?
The only other trouble I've had was a hydraulic leak last winter which was fixed and I don't think has anything to do with this. The Dakota probably will take either the Fisher Homesteader or Western Suburbinite and there is a Blizzard plow which seems to get good reviews from here members. When I was shopping for a new truck a few years ago (S-10, Ranger, Dakota) Dodge said you could not put a plow on the Dakota. I just wanted a smaller truck because I only do my own driveway which is almost 600 feet, with half of it on a good sized hill down to the road.
[quote=ohnomrbill
The solenoid seems to operate fine as I measured the voltage through it at the cable terminations on the plow. How/where should I measure the amps?.[/QUOTE]
Use a amp meter, place it on the cable and have someone operate the plow. Did you change the battery and forget to attach the ground wire?
loosen the hose to the lift ram, Jack the unit up, tighten the hose. clean up the mess. it should stay up
Thanks for the hints & help, Basher. I'll give it a try.

this is my first post on here and am fairly new to the site, i seem to have a little problem besides spelling and that is that i lifted my truck after the winter 6" with 37" tires and well plowing is nearly impossible with it now. The truck is an 03 ram 3500 with a cummins i was wondering if anyone makes a drop bracket for fisher minute mount plows any help would be great because I really dont wanna lose the lift but if i have to i will.
-Mike
Spell check will deal with the spelling but nothing is gonna deal with the lift kit. Lose it, start heavily modifying the plow:waving: or buy a different truck for plowing.
:rolleyes: I second that:waving: basher is right.
why a 6" lift and load range D tires in a 1ton?
kind of defeats the purpose of the 3500....
Well there are work trucks and fun trucks. Maybe try to run a set of smaller tires for the winter? May help, 8 lug pattern on Dodge is same as Ford/Chevy (except Super Duties, got to be different:rolleyes: ) so picking up a used set of rims should be no big deal. Lifted trucks compound wear problems with a plow, though.
sry from a mechanics/plowers point u gonna have to setter down or replace her :drinkup:
I'm a newbie also, but here is my take. I run a 97 diesel ram with lift and 35's. I took the stock undercarriage and extended it down (4" in my case) then reinforced it. The plow sits at the correct height so there should be no additional wear problems.
As for Load range D tires. I assume you have a single rear wheel 1 ton? The larger tires also carry a larger max. weight. For example my BFG's are rated at 3415# each and the stock 265x75x16 BFG (Load range E) is rated for 3415#.
I'm a newbie also, but here is my take. I run a 97 diesel ram with lift and 35's. I took the stock undercarriage and extended it down (4" in my case) then reinforced it. The plow sits at the correct height so there should be no additional wear problems.
As for Load range D tires. I assume you have a single rear wheel 1 ton? The larger tires also carry a larger max. weight. For example my BFG's are rated at 3415# each and the stock 265x75x16 BFG (Load range E) is rated for 3415#.
I know about the # the bfg's D rated tire. I run theBFG, AT/KO/MS 285-75-16's on one of my 3/4 tons.
There rated at max 3305lbs.
You know any thing about physics?
As a loaded truck is going over a dip in the road the truck compresses even more weight down on to the tire.
You can easily over load a "D" rated tire on a 1 Ton.
D rated tires are made out of a softer compound than load E tires are.
They wear out faster when carrying heavy loads.
But the extra winter traction from the softer tire compound is worth the trade off.
So?? why other to "LOOK COOL" why the lift? :confused:
It can't be to go four-weel'in??
Your plow frame will be around a foot of the ground...
Lift kits are notorious for having a long soft travel to the suspension.
Not good for carrying the weight of snow removal equipment.:nono:
Now you want a work truck??
It usually does not work out well trying to combine a play truck and a work truck .
Some insist on doing it.:dizzy:
Definetly loose the lift! A guy I know had a F150 and put a suspension lift (I think it was a 4" lift and a 2" body lift) Any way it was up there. He was plowing with an older snow way and hit a curb straight on and some how folded the plow under to where the plow was acting like a jack.:eek:
Lower load rated tires have a greater SLP angle then higher rated tires. Basically this results in increased under-steer as the tire tread dosen't track the rims as closely because of increased sidewall flex. In extreme conditions ( such as a sidewall impacting with a curb during turning, this can result in breaking the bead that holds the tire to the rim, also contributes to tread wear.
increased under-steer as the tire tread dosen't track the rims as closely because of increased sidewall flex. , also contributes to tread wear. I agree. The softer sidewall results in the tire scuffing across the pavement as you turn.
result, short tire life.
I can see this happing with the Bfg's On my 3/4 ton. The front tires always look scuffed up.
Lots of trade offs there. Better ride quality, and traction with the cheaper D ranges, but lower mileage off sets cheaper price. More durability with the more expensive E range.
Maybe D range on your own daily driver, and E range on the employee's truck?
Or a very high quality E range, traction, load capacity, wear, and a second mortgage. LOL
It's definitely not impossible to do. I have known people with 6" lifts and blades without any problems at all. Check out www.DieselPlace.com and do a search and see what you can come up with. They're pretty much all GM trucks over there, but they'll point you in the right direction.

I have 05 F350 Deisel, I live in Steamboat Springs, Co so we get a fair amount of snow. I am looking for a recomendation for a snow plow. I have very little knowledge about brands\type. I plan on plowing 2 larger driveways, maybe more. 400" of snow last season.
Definetly a Fisher. If you have the big trailer tow mirrors, get an 8.5' or 9'. I have the Stainless Steel X. It scrapes real nice. Just my opinion though.
I bought a Snow-Way last year and I love it.
8 foot Snoway. you could push a lot more blade but why spend the money just to do a couple drives.
I would go with Blizzard 800 or 810
With 400 inches of snow, you're going to need a v-plow unless you have a ton of room to push your banks back at the beginning. Not sure how popular Fishers are out west, but either a Fisher or a Boss. I would recommend the Fisher first, but like I said, that would depend on dealerships and parts availability. I'd go with either the Fisher 9'6" or Boss 9'2".