limited slip , WHATS SUPPOSED TO HAPPEN;1986 F350 frame differences;f-250 tire question;1994 F150 extendcab 4x4 302 Enough?;F-350 manson dump price ?

what happens w/ a limited slip that does not on the non limited slip rear end ?
i got 2004 f25 xl it used ...when in yard in wet wheel spins.......slow rpm or fast rpm one wheel if it were limited slip how would i actually tell.....does there need to be a load on the bed for both tires to spin.. what circumstances makes both tires spin as opposed to just one ?:dizzy: :rolleyes:
With limited slip as one tire starts to spin the other tire should engage. Sounds like you do not have limited slip if only one tire is spinning
Jack up the whole rear end off the ground and put on jack stands. Spin one wheel with the transmission in neutral. The other wheel should turn in the same direction your turning the first for possi / limited slip.
If it is an open diff the other wheel will turn in the opposite direction.
Look at the drivers door build tag, it should list the axle's, there are sites on the inter-net to help decipher the codes.
It's a one wheel wonder.. If you had a limited slip you should have seen two stripes from where both wheels spun. If you have the truck in 2wl drive, jack up one real so it's just off of the ground like MickiRig Said, do his test, and if it is an open rear end you will be able to start your truck put it in first gear and slowly try to drive off of the jack (be careful) if the wheel thats in the air spins you have an open rear end if it starts to push you off of the jack you have an limited slip.
Sometimes of the Fords the limited doesnt work very good. Our town DPW has four F-series, some the limited works off and on while some have never worked from day one. Its not really a good system.
dana makes the rear not ford. My 84 works as good as the day it was built.
Jack up the whole rear end off the ground and put on jack stands. Spin one wheel with the transmission in neutral. The other wheel should turn in the same direction your turning the first for possi / limited slip.
If it is an open diff the other wheel will turn in the opposite direction.
Look at the drivers door build tag, it should list the axle's, there are sites on the inter-net to help decipher the codes.
This is the method I was taught, it works the best. If it is a posi/limited slip and it is not pulling at all, even in wet grass I would bet that something inside is broken, I would have it checked out.
Unfortunately your system is working to FORDS specs. I was Very Disapointed when my new F-250 left me to have to engage 4wd while on wet grass as well. Thank god for the esop. You can research this common problem on a great web site ford truck enthusiast and you will see that it operates on dry pavement when you have full traction, but when you have slipage only one wheel spins. This does not make sense. The clutch package in the rear end allows for excessive slippage so you don't get that farmiliar chirping sound on corners. And given that most of these trucks never see the work they were built for it reduces customer complaints except for the folks who depend on this system to work. If you complain to the dealer they will at there option either change the fluid or add some type of ford friction modifier to it and that will only grant you limited results at best. Had I known this when I ordered my truck I would have opted for the standard rear end and then put in an aftermarket locker.
If the "clutch packs" are fried the repair parts cost almost as much as a good locker.
( at least they are in LMC Truck's catalog )
And you or a shop still have to install them too.
I bet that's a big money rape job too!
dana makes the rear not ford. My 84 works as good as the day it was built. not in the 99-04 superduty. its a 10.5" visteon/sterling rear.
fords limited slip leaves much to be desired. basically it sucks. on my 01 GMC, one of the few good things was the rear locker stock. it actually worked.
When I'm in 4wd plowing and get into a little hairy uphill backpull or such, ONLY 4low will kick the posi/limited slip in to get me out of the jam. It kinda sucks when my heart double beats thinking aaaaw sh** I'm stuck, winch time, then I remember to switch to 4 low and I can get out of about anything so far.......
1986 F350 frame differences

I was checking out the shackle reverse kit at They state that they have a kit that fits (and I quote) "86.5 - 91 Ford F350 4WD." I wasn't aware that there was a difference between an 86 and an 86 1/2. Anyone care to shed some light on this?
I just bought an 86 F350 today, and I was wondering how to tell which is which. Also, they claim "This kit maybe used to convert 1980-97 2wd to 4wd with modification and additional parts available from ORU." Wonder what additional parts would be needed for something like that.
86 1/2 (87) is the new "aero" look body with composite headlamps. 86 has sealed beams and eggcrate grille.
Early 86 F-350 4x4 had the "twin-traction beam" front end like the 80-97 F-250HD 4x4. Later 86's had the bulletproof Dana 60 front axle. The Dana 60 front axle handles a snow plow much better than the IFS set-up.
So, is there a difference in the actual frames, or is it just the mounts and crossmember that is different?
f-250 tire question

I have a 2000 ford f-250 ext cab. Last week one of the tires was a little low on air so i filled it to 80psi
(max recomended PSI) along with all the others to get them all the same. Soon after i noticed That the tires became very noisy.... My dealership told me that noise was normal... It just started making this noise after i put air in the tires. What Psi do you recomend i put in the tires? Thax for your help!
10 percent less than Maximum PSI
My Dodge (8800 lb gvw) came with a booklet listing front and rear pressures based on tire sizes and loads. There are literally hundreds of pressure combos depending on the max expected load. If u want I can post up some examples. The trucks tires also say 80 lb max but I find that, unless fully loaded that is not a realisatic pressure from a wear noise and traction standpoint.
How many pounds of air was in them? I'd go back to that. I run 50 lbs. in the summer all around and run 65 lbs in the front in the winter with the plow on and leave the back at 50 lbs.
My 1997 Ford F-350 W/Powerstroke Diesel calls for 80 psi rear and 60 psi in front, we run 80psi in rear in winter due to 2yard sander and 70psi up front for plow and lower them a little for summer.
I have a 93 F-250 and a 95 F-250 I need new tires for snow use. Can anyone recommend models,makes etc..
I run 50-55 in mine
1994 F150 extendcab 4x4 302 Enough?

Picked up a mint one original owner with 130000 miles. It has a western 7.5unimount on it as well. I knew the guy personally. He used it to plow his driveway and a small church lot. Its got the 302 in it. I have around 15 smaller accounts. My brother in law thinks that in a large snow, this truck will be way underpowered. What do you think or does anyone have any experience with this set up. Its has a auto tranny. He said the ford autos in those years were weak as well?? Do you think this was a good buy for 3200.
considering a new plow costs more then what you paid for the whole set up I think you got a good deal if its in good condition with a known history
You should be fine with that engine as well. Make sure the truck has a transmission cooler and change the fluid at least once a year and it should make you some money. My old jeep was a gold mine, it made me tons of money, the newer truck might be more comfortable and look cleaner, but it still pushes snow the same.
In the end its about making money and the truck getting you home safe.
Plenty of power... Keep maintenance on the trans and plow in 4low if you need more power rather then pushing the truck hard in 4hi. People plow with 4cyl trucks, its all about momentum.
I have a 93 f-150, 302, club cab. It has a 7.5 boss w/wings, does a good job.:)
F-350 manson dump price ?

Yesterday I found a 1987 F-350 mason dump with a 460. It is 1 owner with 69,000 miles. It needs new exaust, front tires, and some through rust on the dump bed(not bad though). The doors are functional but dented up from having the mirros torn off multiple times. There are some minor dents on the cab and one small spot of rust. It also has a 9' Fisher plow. They are asking $4000. Please give me your thoughts on the price, is it worth it, etc.
Thanks in advance, Eric
Two doors at 100.00 a piece and a little work on the mirror dents (Bondo) prime and spray cab. A new dump box, if needed can be bought for 1500.00. It would seem to me that that truck could pay for itself in short order if it is in good mechanical condition. If my memory serves me correctly that will have a C6 transmission which is a tough transmission. Good find Eric, I have been looking for that type of vehicle for 5 or 6 months and only found junk. Good luck with it!
[Edited by Finecut on 11-24-2000 at 02:13 PM]
Eric that is a good find only thing i would worry about is that gas guzzeling 460 i plowed with a '95 with a 460 and the two tanks on the truck went down very quickly the cosmetics are nothing this is a work truck.
The shop on the corner just sold an 88 for the owner with 460, stick, brand new last year Fisher 9 foot plow, 140,000 miles new clutch $4800 the seller was asking 10,000(!) The sander did not go with the trruck for that price. This truck needed nothing, no dents or rust just faded red paint. Food for thought.
The 460 will suck down gas. I have owned many trucks like the one you are looking at with the 460. These trucks were plow trucks and I knew I could put a powerstroke behind an auto and plow. So be ready to fill up a lot, but the motor has plenty of power. Just be ready for 9 MPG at best, and thats empty.
Thats why when I replace a dump truck, I get the powerstroke, the new autos and the powerstrokes plow just fine.
95 with 460, fill its up 2X a week, 99 7.3 once a week, both drove the same amount of miles, with about the same load.
All and all the price sounds good, and it sounds like a good work truck.
If it was me, I would fix the dents and stuff ya want to fix, to make it look the way you want it to. Clean the body up, look it over really well. Then decide if you need a new body or not, I think the body should be fine, I bet the rust is cosmetic. Then take the plow frame off, take the truck down to maco, and have them repaint it.
Sounds like a deal to me. I purchased a 1988 f-350 dump, with a 7.3 diesel and 8.5' diamond plow, 87,000 miles, original owner, this summer for 6800.00 and it needed a clutch, front brakes , never ending electrical work. Good luck.
Just saw a 2000 F-450 4X4 Diesel XL model Auto with an airflow body on it canvese cover plate with pintel.Boy was that nice the price wasn't thought $34K just for the cab MSRP then the body but it will be about the price of the MSRP or more with all the little extras.
Originally posted by Eric E.
Pay no more than 2,800

Bought my 88 2 years ago from a city garage. 70k miles 460 auto 8" dump with 8' Fisher plow. Needed paint and some bodt work. $7500. In 2 years I've put a trans in it, front end work, and am now having some kind of fuel or emmision problem as well as using lots of oil. Might need a new engine. My point is that at this price this truck has paid for itself over again and anything you find comparable is more $ or a raving hunk of junk. Pallet of salt in the back and some really aggressive tires and you can really push snow too!
I have a 87 F350 4x4, hate it truck is a money pit. bought for $ 5000, 2 years ago, now cost me over 13,000. Always seems to be somthing going wrong with it, I know it's old, but should be more reliable than it is.
I guess the main thing here is whether or not you want to be a mechanic? I myself, am sick of it. My 90 dodge rack body is beginning to be a real pain in the but lately. With all the new emission standards here in New Jersey, it seems that you HAVE too put a new engine in anything older than a 92 because it won't pass their 'clean air' emissions standards.
I'm too the point where I would rather spend the money on a new truck and not have any problems than buy a used one and spending every sunday fixing something. The time spent on fixing my truck could be much better spent on bidding a job, doing a design, spending time in the office, or for that thing often forgotten, SPENDING TIME AWAY FROM WORK. I am not a mechanic, nor do I want to be. Until the day comes that I can afford a full time mechanic, I will 'swallow my pride' and buy new. Life is too short to be lying underneath a rusty old truck on a gravel driveway trying to figure out what's wrong this week.

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